Author Topic: Any new routes going up???  (Read 3415 times)

Offline slacker

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Any new routes going up???
« on: September 21, 2015, 06:40:41 am »
I have not seen any action on here and just wondering what people have been up to?

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2015, 07:13:38 am »
I think they've just been out climbing...
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2015, 07:14:21 am »
Actually Shaun Brunnell & co have put up a few and I think Paul Cormier just found something
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Offline strandman

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2015, 09:55:38 am »
I know of 3 projects going on now..2 are in plain sight and the other is deep in the woods

Offline slacker

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2015, 06:53:09 am »
So, no one is spilling the beans....   We have 15 pitches of great sport climbing that we have been working on for a few years.  We are calling it the lost boys wall..  It is the right hand side of North Bald cap.  There are routes from 5.8 up to 5.12+  Most are in the 9-10B range. Great, steep pumpy climbing and, bolted in a fashion that is safe to push your self.  There are 2 projects out there currently both with draws hanging.  These are closed projects so please respect that.   The climbing here is really ,really fun!Go check it out and enjoy....

Matt

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2015, 01:33:18 pm »
Matt, any write ups or topos available?

Offline DaveR

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2015, 06:22:13 pm »
So, no one is spilling the beans....   We have 15 pitches of great sport climbing that we have been working on for a few years.  We are calling it the lost boys wall..  It is the right hand side of North Bald cap.  There are routes from 5.8 up to 5.12+  Most are in the 9-10B range. Great, steep pumpy climbing and, bolted in a fashion that is safe to push your self.  There are 2 projects out there currently both with draws hanging.  These are closed projects so please respect that.   The climbing here is really ,really fun!Go check it out and enjoy....

Matt

LL will want your head! ;)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2015, 05:58:27 am »
slow year for me. too much work and no play. only 3 new pitches...

Offline slink

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2015, 08:56:01 am »
Damn Nick I go on vacation for a year and you stop new routing??? ;D  Ill be back.. It will be too cold by then though.
bailing is not failing!!!

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2015, 01:00:01 pm »
Quite a few new routes at Rumney this year, some pretty good actually.   

Offline markvnh

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2015, 02:26:02 pm »
I was talking to someone in the lot at rumney last week and they mentioned three new routes somewhere above orange crush or new wave. Two 7's and a 10 if I remember. Anyone have a bit more beta? Would like to check them out! Thanks all...

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2015, 06:45:04 pm »
Ward, when is the new Rumney guidebook coming out?  Just curious.

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #12 on: September 23, 2015, 07:46:23 pm »
Mark, look at mountain project under "Orange Crush Balcony", there are three new routes just above the anchors of Black Mamba, you approach them from the Pulse Wall.  Two 5.7's and a 5.10, good routes but great positioning, especially on the left-hand 7, you start with 100 feet of air below you.

Two new two pitch sport routes at the right end of the Main Cliff that are already very popular: Crowd Pleaser 5.7 and Tipping Point 5.8.  Both highly recommended.

Dave Quinn put up a new 5.12b "Full Throttle" next to "Full Effect" at Triple Corners. Great overhanging bear-hugging.

And I even managed to put up a 5.9 at Boundary Rock, a 5.12b crimpy face "Arctic Circle" at Yellowknife, and a 5.12d roof/bulge at NW territories, "Battle of the Bulge." 

Still more stuff going up...or is it down for sport routes?

Nick, we were hoping for this fall for the guide but still new stuff gong in so I have no promises....

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #13 on: September 23, 2015, 08:50:24 pm »
I didn't quit new routing. just got spanked a bunch of times and only had success 3 times.  also spent some time just climbing..

Offline markvnh

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Re: Any new routes going up???
« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2015, 10:29:09 pm »
Ward,

Many thanks on the "balcony" info. I did check MP and must have passed right over it not putting 2+2 together (since I kinda knew they were up high in that area).

Have done Crowd Pleaser and Crack Addict and ran outta time to do Tipping Point last week but it's on the list.

Mark