Author Topic: Fatality in VT  (Read 4030 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Fatality in VT
« Reply #30 on: November 14, 2015, 05:51:13 pm »
Auto block helps you get in rapell for shure. I do the courtesy hold for partners who do not use the same system.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Fatality in VT
« Reply #31 on: November 15, 2015, 08:41:06 am »
I have  had the auto block save my butt so many times I have completely lost count.

I used rarely if never my back up!!!! I used a figure eight, most of the time...with a hip wrap when I am not sure , Prusick or shunt as a back up. When I have to stop and use both hands, I lock my figure eight with the rope and do a wrap around my leg as back up. When I have an heavy pack, I use a shoulder harness.

But some people are so smart that they rely on a tiny back up when there life is at risk 80% of the time.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Fatality in VT
« Reply #32 on: November 15, 2015, 09:24:44 am »
Luke. you don't put up new routes.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Fatality in VT
« Reply #33 on: November 15, 2015, 09:29:41 am »
If you understand how the  auto block below the device works you know it uses verry little force  to do it's job. It is not holding your weight. it simply changes the angle that the rope goes through the belay device which then causes you to stop. Of course I back it up with an overhand knott in the ropes if i have something serious going on but for most normal aplications it's absolutely Truck 8)

A wrap arround you leg ain't doing jack shit if a 100lb dagger of ice snaps off from the change of temps that happens when the sun leaves the ice up at the lake.. You can hear all that shit creak and groan while you rap in the dark..
« Last Edit: November 15, 2015, 09:33:54 am by tradmanclimbz »

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Fatality in VT
« Reply #34 on: November 15, 2015, 08:46:23 pm »
A wrap arround you leg ain't doing jack shit if a 100lb dagger of ice snaps off from the change of temps that happens when the sun leaves the ice up at the lake.. You can hear all that shit creak and groan while you rap in the dark..

Maybe I didn't say it correctly. I have a back up that I don't load, and I didn't need it 99% of the time. If I am knock out, the shunt/prusick will stop my fall and it is his reason why the back up is separate from my rap device. If I made a mistake when I rap... I always have a back up.

When I rap, and in the case of the accident in that post, I estimate the friction of the rope. If I have a 11 mm, I will use a device to lower the friction, if I use a 7 mm, I will use a device to have more friction. The climber didn't use a different device that the sport climber use in a gym. The atc at all situation.so in response to tom cat, rapping is not more dangerous, but people like you are more frequent
 
Strandman point out the difficulty with frozen rope and we can talk also about the use of glove. He used a system to augment the friction that can be used very efficiency in emergency or with a strand climber. And there is other method, like the ti-bloc.

The fact that you say that the guy was stupid not to have used the prusick like you, hero of the cliff who open so much hard route, at the lake where nobody intelligent will be when dagger fall, is the reason of a numerous of accident. I am sorry that a climber like strandman take your defense and agree with you. I most say that I don't understand that.

   

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Re: Fatality in VT
« Reply #35 on: November 16, 2015, 06:02:58 am »
A wrap arround you leg ain't doing jack shit if a 100lb dagger of ice snaps off from the change of temps that happens when the sun leaves the ice up at the lake.. You can hear all that shit creak and groan while you rap in the dark..

Maybe I didn't say it correctly. I have a back up that I don't load, and I didn't need it 99% of the time. If I am knock out, the shunt/prusick will stop my fall and it is his reason why the back up is separate from my rap device. If I made a mistake when I rap... I always have a back up.

When I rap, and in the case of the accident in that post, I estimate the friction of the rope. If I have a 11 mm, I will use a device to lower the friction, if I use a 7 mm, I will use a device to have more friction. The climber didn't use a different device that the sport climber use in a gym. The atc at all situation.so in response to tom cat, rapping is not more dangerous, but people like you are more frequent
 
Strandman point out the difficulty with frozen rope and we can talk also about the use of glove. He used a system to augment the friction that can be used very efficiency in emergency or with a strand climber. And there is other method, like the ti-bloc.

The fact that you say that the guy was stupid not to have used the prusick like you, hero of the cliff who open so much hard route, at the lake where nobody intelligent will be when dagger fall, is the reason of a numerous of accident. I am sorry that a climber like strandman take your defense and agree with you. I most say that I don't understand that.

 

dont take the bait