Author Topic: sport ethic  (Read 868 times)

Offline lucky luke

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sport ethic
« on: October 29, 2015, 12:12:38 am »
Often we compare sport and trad. But it is two different activity that we practice in different place. If I don't like sport for me, that doesn't means that I don't like sport climbing. It is just that I prefer to solve problem with, as a punishment, the chance of a fall...without injury.


Sport ethic:
  • Sport climbing is: the  institutionalisation of climbing into a gymnastic activity in a vertical worlds. It follow the same rules at the other institutionalized sport (like hockey, baseball, tennis, swimming). This means that in a gym the insurance ask the climber to follow a course, a set of good practices, to be allowed to climb. Those rules are set for an environment where bolt was place previously. These rules are not intend to be use outside the context of the institution.
  • Emulation is very important in sport climbing. You learn by looking at other and by trying the same move many time to be able to do it (in a group or alone to come back stronger than the other).  For that reason, the progression is very fast if you have the strength. After six months, one can climb 5.11. In some kind of practice, there is competition, like in bouldering. It often lead to a classification of the climber as: aspire, better, when you will be as good as me. Emulation can occur with other kind of practice, like trad climbing.
  • Clipping bolt is the major technique learn by the leader. Rapping to master the exposition is also recommended by many sport climber. As the gymnastic of the move is the ultimate goal, working a route with many try is a normal process. The other safety techniques are not really necessary as the bolt was place to avoid a ground fall and injury. For that reason, people with responsibility can climb without too much danger and, in some case, have insurance.   
  • sport climbing is accessible to many people, as some one just need climbing shoes and harnest to work out in a gym. Where ever there is line of bolt or a boulder, they can try harder and harder move 
« Last Edit: October 29, 2015, 08:27:51 am by lucky luke »

Offline slink

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Re: sport ethic
« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2015, 12:47:18 am »
So Luke by your definition of sport climbing your wanting to climb the Nose on El Cap makes you a sport climber. Easy access, lots of people, you want to emulate famous climber and fixed gear all over the place. You should quit while you still can be called a trad climber. ;D
bailing is not failing!!!

Offline lucky luke

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Re: sport ethic
« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2015, 09:14:37 am »
So Luke by your definition of sport climbing your wanting to climb the Nose on El Cap makes you a sport climber. Easy access, lots of people, you want to emulate famous climber and fixed gear all over the place. You should quit while you still can be called a trad climber. ;D

In my definition of sport climbing, I don't say that the nose is a sport route. I do see that many people want to transform a route to a gymnastic level to be able to climb it.

Do you like the challenge of solving rope management, nuts placement, rope drag problem, route finding, weather care, friend behavior in the cliff, finding how to do the movement without a fall or do you want vertical gymnastic?

I think that it is more the question to ask to understand the sport ethic. In "la vie au bout des doigts" of patrick Edlinger, and with who sport climbing begin to be popular, it was show that the movement was more important than the other challenge.

Indeed, a lot of people like that and it is a good ethic when you like that. In a resume, engineer who do climbing show good skill for leadership and if he climb hard, of determination. Many climber practice not because they like the challenge, but because of the "WOW" effect. They need to climb hard to show off. And in sport, it is possible. If you bail of a 5.6...even if you told them that you were in Canon cliff, many people will make fun of you. So, the people, when they try a route, risk too much with not enough knowledge. There is accident. The popularity of sport will growth in a gym or look like rock.

Offline DGoguen

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Re: sport ethic
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2015, 10:58:14 am »
Maybe it's time for an intervention.
Forced Sport climbing therapy.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2015, 11:06:50 am by DGoguen »
Don't Climb

Offline eyebolter

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Re: sport ethic
« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2015, 06:20:04 pm »
"After six months, one can climb 5.11."

I'm guessing that there are plenty of trad climbers who have been climbing for 20 years who couldn't touch a bunch of sport 11's I could put them on.

Offline kenreville

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Re: sport ethic
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2015, 07:16:53 pm »
But those routes don't count eyebolter.

They don't have ethic.

Nemesis

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Re: sport ethic
« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2015, 07:28:14 pm »
Maybe it's time for an intervention.
Forced Sport climbing therapy.

I think we'd need to confirm the subjects nationality to call this conclusive evidence ;D
« Last Edit: October 29, 2015, 07:44:47 pm by Nemesis »