Author Topic: The Bouldering Ethic  (Read 3217 times)

Offline kenreville

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The Bouldering Ethic
« on: October 31, 2015, 08:55:46 AM »
Oh....what the hell. ;D

Are there discernible differences between a trad and sport boulderer?

Trad uses chalk? Sport goes barefoot?

What say yee?

strandman

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2015, 12:56:33 PM »
Yes..John Gill is trad boulderer. He's 80 and still is at it. Though last year he was a bit miffed at not being able to do a true front lever anymore,,his legs came apart slightly.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2015, 07:55:53 PM »
Are there discernible differences between a trad and sport boulderer?

I am not really bother by boulderer because there is few accident associate with people who climb boulder and try to climb trad. When you climb very hard move and you can fall on your back, knees or head...you know what is a risk and why you need a protection.

Those who do bouldering to do a kind of training and trad as an exotic activity are more at risk. In my opinion, sport climbing is more a leisure than a sport. And those who climb hard, those who place bolt to do boulder high over the ground, are not sport climber but they really practice bouldering as a sport. Bouldering is a gymnastic activity of high level.

In fact, bouldering is a gymnastic activity in a vertical world and emulation is also important. there is no safety technique to learn and people must learn to fall to avoid bad injury. And it is very accessible.

In my opinion, bouldering is the sport that people think to do when they 


Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2015, 08:54:07 PM »
sport climbing is more a leisure than a sport...

Pure gold. It even has the name "sport" in it.

I like it. I was going to go climb some moderate trad route at Cannon tomorrow but now I'm thinking of heading down to Rumney for some nice 5.11 leisure climbing... anyone wanna join?

strandman

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2015, 03:25:15 PM »
LL..a quick trip to bishop should help you figure things out

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2015, 05:51:14 PM »
sport climbing is more a leisure than a sport...
some nice 5.11 leisure climbing... anyone wanna join?

I get it. All this time I had been MISHEARING the insults lobbed at me by holier-than-thou trad climbers:

Sport climbing is neither leisure.

OK cool. *fistbump*
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2015, 06:56:52 PM »
Nice catch ken  ;D

Offline Jeff

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2015, 08:52:51 AM »
Nice catch ken  ;D

Quick, filet it before it escapes! ;D

Offline kenreville

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2015, 06:03:21 PM »
Nice catch ken  ;D

For gawd sakes! It was rancid bait and I still hookedup.  :o

Offline lucky luke

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #9 on: November 09, 2015, 11:56:51 AM »
sport climbing is more a leisure than a sport...
Pure gold. It even has the name "sport" in it.

Very interesting how people used terms without knowing there meaning. As leisure can be a sport (http://www.humankinetics.com/excerpts/excerpts/definitions-of-leisure-play-and-recreation), sport can not be a leisure. In some definition of sport you have: "Sport: Typically defined as an organized, competitive activity, requiring adherence to rules
and/or customs and specific skills to play; the objective is often associated with winning or
losing. We typically think of sports as being athletic competitions, but competitive games
requiring intellectual skills and challenges (e.g., chess) are also considered “sport.”

organized
competitive activity
adherences to rules
specific skills to play
objective to onsight clean or winning a competition of bouldering

as we talk about sport climbing, there is no organisation. There is gym who want to do money, but it is not like in an hokey team where you have to workout with a group. sport climber like to take there harness, shoes and rope and decide where they will go climbing today with a bunch of friend.

competitives, sport climber try a route many many times and when you get it, you try an other. if you don't you get an other any way and come back later. It is not a competition against yourself (can I onsight 5.10 any where without falling: 80% of the case I climbed (sight) it every where) but just a problem to solve when it will be time

adherences to rules...ethic is not your strength at all, and ethic is rules. It is clear that boulder have clear rules (sitting on the ground and move up, hold that you most take, etc) and trad have there owns too. But most sport climber can do any thing to get to the summit.

specific skill is not important, The greatest point of sport climbing is that every body can do it and it is fun and gave the impression that they are as good as an athlete who train every day like in a job. I know one guy who did 200 sit up each night to be at it best the next morning. Ed Webster suggest a lot of workout for the skill how to place nuts. In trad, to be able to play a chess game while you are in danger, keep the capacity of thinking under heavy stress, is one of the plaisir of it...particularly when you find a solution :laugh:

objective. most sport climber doesn't make plan. They don't have an instructor or a workout schedule. They have leisure and they like the activity. when you ask a sport climber whith nuts and cam: what is his goal...they answer you stupidly: climbing


Offline lucky luke

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2015, 12:01:47 PM »
Note I know people interested by the sport, not the leisure. They are afraid by the commitment and also by the time, family. It is not bad to do sport, it is a great activity for every body.

I know people who prefer to boulder alone in there rock field and meet people in a competition to see how they progress and exchange with other climber. Studying a move and doing strength exercise to be able to understand and stay on the hold.

The problem is always people with a high ego that think that because they climb 5.11 in a gym they can climb in trad a lower level. Those are risky people and those who follow a set of rules because you don't make distinction between words and ethics

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2015, 05:42:07 PM »
Still Biteing ;D

Offline kenreville

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #12 on: November 09, 2015, 06:41:16 PM »
Holy CHIT!!!

I got a world record on here!!!

Somebody get the fuckin gaff!!!

strandman

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #13 on: November 09, 2015, 06:55:52 PM »
Ken-----I bet Baja is nice now

Offline JBro

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Re: The Bouldering Ethic
« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2015, 08:15:31 PM »
Holy CHIT!!!

I got a world record on here!!!

Somebody get the fuckin gaff!!!


Here try this...

Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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