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Author Topic: popular cams  (Read 260 times)

Admin Al

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popular cams
« on: September 17, 2004, 07:48:45 PM »

so what are the most popular cams these days? I have a very eclectic mix of cams on my rack currently. here's what is there now:

purple Metolius
orange Metolius
green Alien
.5 Camelot
.75 Camelot
#1 Camelot
#2 Camelot
#3 Camelot

I keep eyeing some of the tiny ones, but can't really justify them right yet. what does everyone else thing?

Al
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dgkula

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2004, 05:40:34 AM »

As a relative trad noob ( one year of leading at 5.7/5.8 ) who lucked into a half-decent bonus at work last year, I picked up the following about ten months ago:

WC Tech Friend 0
WC Tech Friend 0.5
WC Tech Friend 1
WC Tech Friend 1.25
WC Tech Friend 1.5
WC Tech Friend 1.75
WC Tech Friend 2
WC Tech Friend 2.5
WC Tech Friend 3
WC Tech Friend 3.5
WC Tech Friend 4

Although the #3.5 and #4 don't come with me on every lead, I really like the cams. The action is smooth (plus I recently cleaned and lubed them with white lightning chain lube) and I have had no problems with them at all.

I'm getting used to sizing, so with 80% accuracy, I can eyeball a placement and pick the right cam first time. I have thought about doubling up on a few of the smaller sizes as they seem to go first, or getting some Aliens. I am leaning towards doubling up (if I ever decide to part with more $$$ - not in the immediate future, so this comment is pretty hypothetical) as I don't see any reason other than flexible stems to go with Aliens and I'd have to figure out sizing which would, in the short term, lower my "first pick" accuracy.

I think I've spent too much time even thinking about this in the first place. That must be what happens when it spends the day raining in Brookline, MA, and I spend a few hours cleaning my gear.

David
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2004, 07:07:39 AM »

I have a pretty good mix of cams. Some are booty, others were bought spur of the moment on sale. I like the mix and match because cams of different brands fill in the spaces between  sizes in a single brand rack . For instance a purple HB quadcam is a perfect size between a .75 and a#1 camalot. I currently have Camalots, Hugh Banner, Metulious, Aliens and TCU on my rack. in the past i had some rigid friends . It is good to be used to a mix and match system because it makes it a lot easier to climb on other peoples racks.
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DLottmann

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2004, 09:18:36 AM »

Three smallest TCU's
.3 BD Cam   (sometimes double up)
.4 BD Cam   (sometimes double up)
.5 BD Cam   (sometimes double up)
.75 BD Cam  (sometimes double up)
1 BD Cam
2 BD Cam
3 BD Cam    (don't always bring this one)

I would like 1-5 Aliens if I could find them....

Oh, and the reason I like BD is the double axle gives them a wider range/per piece, making "accuracy" a bit easier, albeit they are the heaviest cams out there.
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trad_doc

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2004, 11:21:24 AM »

Aliens
blue
green (2X)
yellow (2X)
red

Camalots
.5
.75
1 (2X)
2 (2X
3

Always double on the aliens cuz they're so light and I find I place the green and yellow on almost every NE route I've climbed.  Red alien and .5 BD are effectively doubles on that size.  I'll double on the 1 and 2 depending on the route.  My buddy has the blue/green and green/yellow alien offsets which are really nice for flaring cracks.  I will definitely buy these if I can ever find them.  I pretty much based my rack on the gear of the first guy I started trad'ing with.  Big difference is that I went with neutrino wiregates for all of my biners and he's mostly oldschool ovals.  Also went with the skinny slings.  You'd be amazed at how much weight these two things will shave off a rack.   :D

Damn rain.   >:(
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2004, 11:49:38 AM »

Yes the new light weight biners are nice but if you are broke and allready have 60-70?? biners you might not be in the mood to buy new biners 8) I do get pretty stoked when i score a new lightweight booty biner though
;D on those ocasions were I find the need for a feel good impulse buy I usualy pick up a nice new wire gate 8)
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trad_doc

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2004, 12:27:28 PM »

Hehe.  I hear that.  I was lucky to start with someone who had a full rack, so I had no pressure to buy gear.  I saved $$$ for one piece of gear a month.  Took about a year and a half to assemble my rack.   ;D

All I need now is a job with a six figure salary, six week vacation, full benifits, flexible schedule, within 60 miles of world class climbing, that will allow me to join the "200+ days of climbing a year" club.  I have to believe this job exists!  ;)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2004, 01:40:07 PM »

My best year i quit My job, Dumped the karate school, went road tripping and logged 190 days ;D My rack has been picked up hear and there (lots of booty) one or 2 pieces at a time since 86 when most of my rack was stolen in the gunks. No huge one time exspendurchers for rock. that is the ice dept :o  I do need to retire a biner or a piece now and then so i do still get to gear shop a wee bit 8) A few months ago I noticed a kink in the wire of a 17 year old #5 Chiounard SS soldered micro. i bent it back and forth with my fingers a few times and the head snapped right off ::) a little heads up to the rest of you old guys out there. Check your old gear every now and then 8)
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cowboy

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2004, 05:49:27 PM »

 Hey guys.  I've been using Rock Empire cams for the last year and I like them alot. They are siginificantly cheaper than anything I've seen in the mainstream even the Trango Flexcams.  I think they are Czech made and I'm pretty sure they go through the usual tests.  Anybody ever used them? Any thoughts?  Why are they so cheap?  Are they crap?
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Admin Al

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2004, 06:29:37 PM »

Cowboy

I haven't seen those cams. I checked out their link (http://www.rockempire.com) and they look interesting. I'll have to go back thru my old issues of R&I to see the reviews thay are supposed to be mentioned in. did y ou buy them mailorder or did you see them first? how do the sizings compare with, say, Camelots or Aliens?

Al
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cowboy

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2004, 09:04:14 AM »

Hey Al, thanks for replying.  Since I'm fairly new to leading, I can't tell you how the sizes compare.  My partner has the robot cams and BD camalots, I'll ask him.  We buy them mailorder. I've seen a few people in the Red with them, so they may be catching on.  I just can't find much wrong with them and the price is phenomenal. Gearexpress.com also has them soemtimes too.
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T_Moon

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2004, 10:25:28 AM »

Maine Mountain Works in Portland, ME carries Rock Empire Cams.  I haven't used them but they have gotten good reviews and are UIAA and CE certified.

Most of my cams are DMM 4CUs.  They are very light and easy to carry.  This is my second season with them and they're holding up pretty well.  They seem to be fairly similar to Friend sizes.  I have the WC zero size z3 and z4 but haven't had the opportunity to place them yet.  The Z3 is scary small.  Pretty sure I wouldn't want to fall on it.

Anyone ever taken a fall on a very small cam?  How did you and the cam fare?

Troy
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Admin Al

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2004, 01:29:47 PM »

about 9 years ago I took a pretty good fall on a purple Metolius at the crux headwall on the last pitch of the Prow (10a). it was over my head at the time, but I was just going for it. <grin> it held just fine. I saw someone take a fall on one on Loose Lips a couple of years later and it was fine. it welded it in the crack tho. that one was there for most of the summer.

Al
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #13 on: September 19, 2004, 03:04:55 PM »

Al, Your supposed to grab that root ;D Micro cams are entirely dependent on rock quality and placement quality. if either factor is less than perfect, all bets are off as to how much a micro cam or nut will hold.
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Admin Al

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Re: popular cams
« Reply #14 on: September 19, 2004, 07:52:41 PM »

tradman I love that root. that root is my friend. <grin> when that root goes the route will go up a letter grade!

Al
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