Author Topic: Pegasus  (Read 2417 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Pegasus
« on: January 30, 2016, 11:45:22 PM »
I understand that there was an accident on the pillars on Pegasus today. Any details?
Al Hospers
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Nemesis

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2016, 07:27:31 AM »
Those look horrifying, I'm sure that's a contributing factor

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2016, 07:54:44 AM »
« Last Edit: January 31, 2016, 07:57:34 AM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline David_G48

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2016, 08:05:23 AM »
I wonder if the ice was too thin to place protective screws, climbing was too hard to place them or if the climber was overly comfortable and did not bother to place any. One last option would be the screws did not hold. Maybe Grammy can place some analysis on this tragic event that can be used as a learning tool.
.

Hoping for a speedy and full recovery to Kevin.

Offline markvnh

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2016, 08:29:14 AM »
Hope he's ok and has no serious injuries - and recovers soon.

I drove by on Friday and Pegasus looked pretty grim. Most reports have been saying rock finish only.

Interested to know which he was doing.

Offline David_G48

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2016, 08:42:04 AM »
From a report by Grammy on FB he was on the pillars. Grammy was part of the recue from what I read.

Offline old_school

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2016, 01:58:33 PM »
I think, honestly; the take home message is nothing new:
1. Place gear and place it often particularly a top out screw
2. Take time to learn about conditions, including bonding, freeze thaw cycles, the signs that might indicate thin or baked out ice, and what conditions top outs are in.
3. Pushing limits on ice is a dangerous and serious venture. Do everything in your power to prepare yourself to be up for the challenge both physically and mentally.

Kevin is a great guy. One strong mofo to be able to basically walk himself out of the woods to the tracks (with the aid of a lot of caring climbers taking turns holding him steady and alert with conversation). We got him out of there under an hour with great teamwork and great leadership from Nick Aiello. Pretty proud of this climbing community. People from all over dropped everything for this fallen brother. Hats off to all who assisted last night. Wishing Kevin a full and speedy recovery!
« Last Edit: January 31, 2016, 02:44:42 PM by old_school »
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2016, 06:02:53 PM »
Those pillars really haven't formed yet this year. I haven't heard of anyone climbing them yet, though the Rock Finish is in great shape. Hope Kevin makes a full & speedy recover, and maybe shares some insights into the accident when he's ready. Nice work everyone who helped to stabilize and transport him to medical care. The fact that climbers come to each other's aid is one of the best things about our sport.

Something happened on Willard today, Hitchcock Gully I believe... hope that one turns out ok as well.

We are coming up on one of the busiest ice climbing weekends of the season under less than optimal conditions. Please climb within your ability and in control. Hoping for an accident free weekend!

Offline smarten

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2016, 06:39:13 PM »
Climbing Community,

I was Kevin's partner that day and I want to thank each and every one of you for your help yesterday afternoon.  Everyone responded in accordance with their skills and training - whether medical, rescue, or muscle power.  Every bit made the difference to getting him to the ambulance as quickly as we did.

I did my best to return gear to those who lent it for the effort.  Please PM me if you are missing something and I will check the pile.

For those well wishers who were concerned for Kevin, he is being released tomorrow to finish his recovery.

For those fellow climbers wondering about conditions and lessons learned:  The ice was good and all screws held.  A screw placed before the top-out would have mitigated the fall.  Perhaps down climbing to rest or clipping a solid tool to rest could have been done before the pump took over.  As we all know, there are so many factors to consider when climbing and assessing the conditions and our abilities.  Let's all be extra careful out there.

Kind Regards,

Eric

Offline old_school

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2016, 11:14:27 AM »
Climbing Community,

I was Kevin's partner that day and I want to thank each and every one of you for your help yesterday afternoon.  Everyone responded in accordance with their skills and training - whether medical, rescue, or muscle power.  Every bit made the difference to getting him to the ambulance as quickly as we did.

I did my best to return gear to those who lent it for the effort.  Please PM me if you are missing something and I will check the pile.

For those well wishers who were concerned for Kevin, he is being released tomorrow to finish his recovery.

For those fellow climbers wondering about conditions and lessons learned:  The ice was good and all screws held.  A screw placed before the top-out would have mitigated the fall.  Perhaps down climbing to rest or clipping a solid tool to rest could have been done before the pump took over.  As we all know, there are so many factors to consider when climbing and assessing the conditions and our abilities.  Let's all be extra careful out there.

Kind Regards,

Eric

Great news Eric!

You have a tough partner there, and you did a great job getting him to help. So glad to hear that he will be alright! See you out there soon.

Grammy
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline strandman

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #10 on: February 01, 2016, 03:39:30 PM »
Grammy--looks like you might be already looking foward to rock season


Offline old_school

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2016, 08:33:10 AM »
Grammy--looks like you might be already looking foward to rock season

Ice climbing is stupid John!!!!  :P :-[ ;D
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline David_G48

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2016, 09:03:15 AM »
Grammy--looks like you might be already looking foward to rock season

Ice climbing is stupid John!!!!  :P :-[ ;D

Grammy, although what you said may be true, only the smart survive. ;D

Offline old_school

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Re: Pegasus
« Reply #14 on: February 02, 2016, 09:58:03 AM »
Grammy, although what you said may be true, only the smart survive. ;D

 ::) ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."