Author Topic: Witness to a ..???  (Read 1303 times)

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Witness to a ..???
« on: May 08, 2016, 11:56:27 AM »
Yesterday, we here the usual these days ..i guess   "  clipping in "  " Climbing"  etc,,etc I come around the corner and this dude is sketching prettty bad  ..slung chicken head around his knees, about 10' above a ledge
i commented to a midlle age guy (not belaying)   "he's fine, he leads 5.10"  Well, we scampered away ..clatter, clatter  "Oh Shit" and thump

Guess what / belayer whipped across the slab, bang into the face, ;leader hits the ledge and the dog ( of course) starts yappin'

One guy says to the belayer " nice catch !!"   holy shit, he fucking decked out !!   

You guessed it...first outdoor lead,,,slinging chicken heads...nice move

Offline slink

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 501
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2016, 01:41:29 PM »
Funny you bring this up. Yesterday saw someone on their first lead and they just draped a sling over a stump.  I said to my partner let's leave before this becomes a rescue. Someone in the group did finally say something as we were heading by.  The leader did fall off before this and hit the ground before the first gear placement. Ugh   We all started somewhere I guess
bailing is not failing!!!

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2016, 05:00:34 PM »
We booted out as well....when i see a "5.10" leader sketching on 5.7..I get away fast.

Thing is, we were at a "trad' area in NM...very few sport climbs..like 4 and not much well protected easier stuff.

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1762
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2016, 11:04:21 AM »
We booted out as well....when i see a "5.10" leader sketching on 5.7..I get away fast
Get away fast but when I talked to avoid these situations....you don't help. You do shit and gave to unsafe climber the feeling that they are great climber

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2016, 09:24:11 AM »
Damn right LL....

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1762
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2016, 10:53:34 AM »
We booted out as well....when i see a "5.10" leader sketching on 5.7..I get away fast

I was in yosemite climbing royal arches with three "I fly away people" As the last climber, they told me that the party over us was very dangerous and I saw how bad the leader was. It was a dad with his child doing a father and son route. I doubt that i will be able to stop a fall to the ground with my weight and he was with a thirteen years old kid. Pushing him in dangerous situation.

The fly away guy asked the father tp go down. but he didn't want too. they insulted each other and one of the fly away leader solo a crux with tears in her eyes as they have argument, placing her own life in danger.

As a leader of trad climbing, I flew over the father party to a bottle neck. and stop the progression of the father party. As the fly away leader arrived at my anchor...I told them that we are going to climb one party over the kid and one party under it. So, we are going to protect the child again too much confidence of the father. It is what we was doing in the good tradition of climbing.

The bad fly away person just want to bail and leave the child to his bad situation. I had the weakness to follow them instead of asking the father to bee the third person. I also have to take care of my parties as a leader with more experiences than the other.

moral don't climb with flew away partner 
« Last Edit: June 20, 2016, 10:14:46 AM by lucky luke »

Offline JBro

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1375
  • Doing God's work
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2016, 12:49:20 PM »
I'm koo koo for cocoa puffs.

Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2016, 06:27:25 PM »
Safety, safety..fucking safety.....Unless your paying me to guide, I have no responsibilty for your safety.  NONE


LL..maybe you should try to get up more routes in Yosemite and then your quotes might mean something.  A cluster fuck on RA ?  WOW


NO SHIT

Where does your so called experience come from ??   Walls ? New routes ?   Alpine rock ?  ????????????????????????????????   

Give me a fucking break you looser

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1762
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2016, 10:27:59 AM »
Safety, safety..fucking safety.....Unless your paying me to guide, I have no responsibilty for your safety.  NONE

I think that it is a point of distinction between sport (individual mentality) and trad (share the rock with other)

Personally I feel responsible of some one else and I throw rope to some party in difficulty and save an injury because I didn't fly away. I remember to had sayed to my girl friend at an anchor...just sit down... we will wait I  have to save them in few minutes. And they took the rope that I fix for them

Offline pappy

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 408
Re: Witness to a ..???
« Reply #9 on: June 21, 2016, 12:01:51 PM »
Safety, safety..fucking safety.....Unless your paying me to guide, I have no responsibilty for your safety.  NONE

I think that it is a point of distinction between sport (individual mentality) and trad (share the rock with other)


 ??? WTF? Sport climbing areas (like Romney) are a freaking zoo of people 'sharing the rock'. The whole point of establishing a sport route seems to be to set it up to share with others. I'm as trad as they come, don't like being at a cliff with any other parties, and when I put up a route it's to get to the top, not perform a public service. Apparently you will contort this whole sport/trad thing into all kinds of bizarre shapes to fit your own preconceptions.

And Strand's right, if you're not my partner I don't have any responsibility for your safety, and I don't feel any responsibility to educate the masses. About as close as I've come was when I followed a '5.11+ leader' (in the gym) up Golden Locks (perfect 5.8 handcrack at T-wall) because his '5.11+' second (in the gym) couldn't get off the ground. They had just bought a rack of brand new cams, and not a single one that he placed would have held a fall. Even better, when I got to the top he was anchored to a cam shoved under a detached TV sized block and a 1.5" diameter dead pine tree. If I had thought I might fall I would have been freaked. As it was I told him 'Get the f**k out of here and don't come back until you know what you're doing', which is about all the education I tend to offer.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.