Poll

What is the oldest bolt you have clipped on a route in NH that has not been replaced?

less than 10 years
0 (0%)
less than 15 years
0 (0%)
less than 20 years
1 (5.3%)
more than 20 years
14 (73.7%)
have NO idea how old the bolt is
4 (21.1%)

Total Members Voted: 19

Author Topic: How old are the bolts your clipping  (Read 1354 times)

Offline darthgator

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How old are the bolts your clipping
« on: May 10, 2016, 01:36:20 PM »
I am interested in learning more about the hardware at various areas and what our community members think is an acceptable life-span of bolts for climbing based upon there materials, construction, assembly, use (falls).  Please provide the area, route name and any other info about the hardware on the route that seems appropriate.  Also, do tell of any suspect bolts and where they are. 
« Last Edit: May 10, 2016, 02:23:51 PM by darthgator »

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: How old are the bolts you clipping
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2016, 01:56:45 PM »
I know I have clipped oldies at Rainbow that I think have since been replaced. Clipped a few old button heads at Lost & Found Ledges.

For a high priority bolt that needs replacing IMO I'll toss out the bolt on Standard Direct Finish, Whitehorse. That's an old quarter incher with a non-stainless hanger on a insanely popular route. I would want whoever replaces it though to be very skilled at bolt removal/replacement. Not a place for a hack job.

Offline Jeff

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Re: How old are the bolts you clipping
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2016, 02:17:42 PM »
In the survey, to make sense it should read "have NO idea how old the bolt is"  (yes I'm a former language teacher ;D)

Offline darthgator

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Re: How old are the bolts you clipping
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2016, 02:21:53 PM »
agreed, david.  perhaps we should have a poll of skill in bolt replacement.   thanks for the grammar, jeff
« Last Edit: May 10, 2016, 02:28:13 PM by darthgator »

Offline z.st.jules

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2016, 02:34:08 PM »
There are some oldies at Sandwich. Old SMC hangers from the 80's i believe.

The bolts in the cave at cathedral are nasty. not sure how old they are though.

Offline strandman

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2016, 09:37:03 AM »
Shit,, 20 years is young for some NH bolts ! A friend repalced some of South Butt Direct last year and thos were original  ('78 ?) so that's 37 yrs.

Some routes out at the Captain are from 97,,but at least there 3/8"..that's almost 20

How well the bolt is placed is just as vital as materials in my book

Offline darthgator

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2016, 08:15:11 PM »
I was grossly wrong in suggesting five year increments for the poll :-X.  Perhaps I should have used 10 year increments.  Today I climbed past the second pitch of Revolt of the Dike Birgade and those things look like Ed's original 1980 hardward, but the first pitch bolts are nice and shiny.

Offline bayard russell

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2016, 06:20:41 AM »
Seems like a good place to chime in that the new organization, Friends of the Ledges, is getting the ball rolling on a thoughtful bolt replacement process based on new recommendations from the Access Fund. Right now we're still in the process of acquiring the tools needed, some of which are proving difficult to find. For those that are interested, more information can be found here:

https://www.accessfund.org/educate-yourself/for-advocates/managing-fixed-anchors/best-practices-for-bolt-removal

Sam Bendroth has been in frequent contact with the developer of the process as we make purchasing decisions, Kurt Winkler and I make up the rest of the committee. Eventually we'll get some fundraising going, as of now we're just buying the needed tools out of our own pockets. We have plenty of new bolts, thanks to the ASCA.

*If any machinists-types out there have any leads on where to find one of these: http://www.greenlee.com/products/DRIVER-SET%40dQUICK-DRAW-%287804%40dE%40dM4%29.html?product_id=17361 - let me know. There are less inexpensive versions out there, but none are currently available. This version of the tool is quite expensive ($600-700).

Thanks,
Bayard
« Last Edit: May 14, 2016, 06:23:09 AM by bayard russell »

Offline mopowers

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2016, 09:05:41 AM »
Bayard, You should connect with Greg Kuchyt.

Greg is leading the Vermont anchor replacement initiative and has replaced a ton of bolts. He might be able to help you guys source equipment for your tool kit.

http://vari.gregkuchyt.net/

Offline strandman

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #9 on: May 14, 2016, 09:39:35 AM »
I was grossly wrong in suggesting five year increments for the poll :-X.  Perhaps I should have used 10 year increments.  Today I climbed past the second pitch of Revolt of the Dike Birgade and those things look like Ed's original 1980 hardward, but the first pitch bolts are nice and shiny.

That's because P1 used to have pins and they fell  out!

Bayard,,we have always got a good deal from Fixe when doing replacements...

Offline kenreville

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2016, 07:52:30 AM »
I was grossly wrong in suggesting five year increments for the poll :-X.  Perhaps I should have used 10 year increments.  Today I climbed past the second pitch of Revolt of the Dike Birgade and those things look like Ed's original 1980 hardward, but the first pitch bolts are nice and shiny.

I replaced the bolts on the 1st pitch in 1990.

Offline kenreville

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2016, 09:16:58 PM »
That makes those nice shiny ones 25 years old.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2016, 06:28:32 AM »
Reiterates how inportant it is to use stainless in the north east.

Offline strandman

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #13 on: May 18, 2016, 09:18:11 AM »
That makes those nice shiny ones 25 years old.

good enough

Offline eyebolter

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Re: How old are the bolts your clipping
« Reply #14 on: May 18, 2016, 06:39:35 PM »
25 years is nothing for stainless bolts, I put in 3/8 inchers at Rumney that still look brand new.  Non-stainless on the other hand are old before their time.  Anyone not using stainless is a cheap bastard .