Author Topic: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?  (Read 5211 times)

Offline ralbert20

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Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« on: May 16, 2016, 01:19:11 PM »
If you were going to attempt 3 (or more) routes in a day on Cannon, what would they be, and what would your strategy be?


Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2016, 01:36:53 PM »
I would go up WG, rap, Up Moby, rap Consolation Prize, up Lakeview, hike out. Skinniest doubles I could find and a very light rack. Approach shoes for about 80% of the climbing. Very cold beers in a cooler at the car.

Offline frik

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2016, 02:43:39 PM »
Geeze i'd never willingly rap the Gillman...  you can descend the trail and cut over to the Talus pretty quickly if you want it in your itinerary.  A pretty reasonable plan is Union jack & rap, Vertigo &  rap,  finish up Indented slab, Conn prize, Lakeview or a combination.  You can also descent off the top of lakeview and cut over to the base very fast.

I'd be very careful about rapping down from the top of conn prize. There are good anchors up there but also still quite a bit of loose stuff just waiting to be knocked down on unsuspecting folks at the bottom.... which, once above pitch 3 you wont be able to see.

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2016, 03:01:09 PM »
Geeze i'd never willingly rap the Gillman...  you can descend the trail and cut over to the Talus pretty quickly if you want it in your itinerary.

I've heard the "cut over" this section of talus is pretty horrible. Didn't Webster or Swain say it was the worst bush wack of their life?

While I've never rapped WG I think with double 60's you could get down the WG in 2.5 raps, probably leaving a carabiner or two behind. BD would be tempting but I know that's ended in a broken arm in one case.

Offline frik

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2016, 05:25:23 PM »
Ive come off the Gilman via the trail and then across the talus many times. If you're heading home it isn't the way to go, but for getting on another route it's fine. I guess it helps to know the area. As for rapping down the Gilman; the combination of loose rock and crowds seems to make it a rather rash idea.

You're tempted to rap the dike...really ?

Offline ralbert20

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2016, 05:48:46 PM »
David, your plan was pretty much what I had in mind as well - WG, Moby, rap, Lakeview. Ideally would like to get to the top on each route, but that descent from Moby just does not seem worth it.

Bonus, drive to North Conway after and hit Thin air->black lung and finish on Standard on WH...

That would be a long day...

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2016, 06:13:23 PM »
If I was looking for a Trifecta I would do something like Pinnacle, Moby, Sliding Board.

One thing about Cannon that I think gets overlooked is the amount of solid climbing that can be had if one does not think "full route". First two pitches of Duet, Sticky Fingers, Slow & Easy, Reppy's, Vertigo, the finish up WG is an awesome day.

strandman

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2016, 06:16:22 PM »
Fuck that danger shit..Lab Wall to P7..rap..DD to P 8 ? and tthen  drive to cathedral on do the Prow..thats a LONG day..took us 18 hrs i bellieve

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2016, 06:25:55 PM »
1.  Reppy's
2.  Slow and Easy
3.  Sticky Fingers

—and then you can take a swim in Echo and hit Polly's for lunch!

Offline pcooke

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2016, 06:38:52 PM »
Last summer my friend and did the following:

Vertigo (first 5 pitches, quarter moon variation), Moby Grape (6 pitches, walk off and cut back to talus), WG (3 pitches doing direct variations). 

2:15 base to base for Vertigo, 4 hours base to base on Moby, maybe 2 hours climbing WG... didn't time the schlep off back to the car. Time in between routes waiting for Reppys to clear, eating and wishing we could sleep before doing WG.

Back at the house in N. Woodstock with plenty of daylight without even doing an alpine start.

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2016, 07:58:30 PM »
pcooke that sounds like a great day

Offline ralbert20

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2016, 09:32:12 AM »
pcooke, indeed! Nice!

My only trifecta so far was: W-G, beginner's (WH), bombardment-upper refuse. I believe we were done around 3:30pm...


Offline pcooke

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2016, 12:52:21 PM »
Mind-opening day, Dave... never would have thought we could do those routes that quickly. Even now, I'm having a hard time wrapping my mind around how quickly we did each set of pitches.

It's nice not needing to add driving between routes in the link-up for sure, but some of the Cannon/Cathedral/Whitehorse options are pretty cool!

strandman

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2016, 02:53:45 PM »
Is there not a rap route on Moby yet ?  Suprising, but I guess the rope hang ups would suck

A Whithorse/Cathedral/Hump day has some great possibilities as well  Robinson Crusoe- Intmidation- Children's would be awesome

Offline JBro

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Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2016, 07:03:31 PM »
Shimberg bolted a rap route off to the side of Moby maybe 15 years ago, but a bunch of the locals gave him shit and he removed it soon after.

Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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