Author Topic: Circus on Moby...  (Read 2026 times)

Offline steve4464

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Circus on Moby...
« on: May 31, 2016, 11:02:56 AM »
Reposting an account from the weekend - not mine, I was playing on the rock in Acadia... Just thought some fellow NH climbers might appreciate this "experience" ( or not ) -

"On Moby Grape yesterday. Group of three (2 guys, 1 girl), the two followers being very new climbers. Took them upwards of 2 hours to do the first pitch (Reppy's Crack). Then when I approached  the top of the first pitch, the female in the group insisted that I could not share the spacious belay ledge with their party. I told her that was not an option, and that we would absolutely be sharing the ledge (the leader had already set off, leaving only the two followers on the ledge). After the leader finished the second pitch, he brought the female up, but decided he was going to leave the third member of the party on the first pitch belay ledge. Only the leader didn't belay at the standard third pitch belay (i.e., directly below the very obvious crux Triangle Roof pitch), but rather, he had quested up left into a corner and wound up above the triangle roof far to the left. I took this opportunity to pass by leading up left on the 4th-ish class rock that leads to beneath the Triangle Roof. At this point,  the leader of that party asked me if I was planning to do a variation. I kindly informed him that no, I was doing the actual route, and that he was off-route. They commenced a bizarre down climbing episode while I led the crux pitch. I'm still not sure how any reasonably well-informed leader can altogether miss one of the defining features of that route, especially when he's leading two rank beginners (all were wearing very aggressive, tight climbing shoes -- the female, after falling several times on Reppy's, actually had to take her feet out of her shoes while hanging on the route -- and one guy was wearing a ski helmet). At any rate, he finally error-corrected and led the triangle roof. Upon arriving at the belay, he placed a #3 camalot behind the not-very large free-standing block you see in the foreground here (and it looks bigger in the picture than it actually is because of the camera position), and traversed left to the fixed tat rap anchor, where you can see he simply clipped a locker to the quick link for his anchor, then attached a quick draw to said locker, through which he redirected the rope to a belay off his harness. Super-sketchy shit and I don't know how he planned to hang three of them off that anchor with no ledge for their feet. All this to say that frankly this party had no business being on Cannon Cliff. The two followers obviously had no way to guage their leader friend's competence and so unwittingly put themselves in harm's way likely with no understanding of the danger they might be putting themselves in. Don't be these people. Seek qualified instruction. Just because you climb 5.12 in the gym does not mean you can properly manage and safely climb a multi-pitch route outdoors, especially when it's a place as unforgiving as Cannon Cliff."

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2016, 12:03:12 PM »
Welcome to sport climbing mentality.

To know better...read Ebster guide book on climping where mountain. The part on canon is very important.


Offline frik

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2016, 04:03:59 PM »
Brilliant Luke.
i really admire your efficient, almost minimalist phrasing. And it looks like your scholarship of James Joyce is paying dividends:   "climping where mountain."  I hope you don't mind me stealing that one, it's a keeper.

Offline pappy

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2016, 06:35:28 PM »
Brilliant Luke.
i really admire your efficient, almost minimalist phrasing. And it looks like your scholarship of James Joyce is paying dividends:   "climping where mountain."  I hope you don't mind me stealing that one, it's a keeper.

Bingo, I wish I had made that connection. LL is the Finnegan's Wake of "climping". The headache feels almost exactly the same.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2016, 07:47:51 AM »
Brilliant Luke.
i really admire your efficient, almost minimalist phrasing. And it looks like your scholarship of James Joyce is paying dividends:   "climping where mountain."  I hope you don't mind me stealing that one, it's a keeper.

Bingo, I wish I had made that connection. LL is the Finnegan's Wake of "climping". The headache feels almost exactly the same.

good insight…

all this time i thought lucky was working an "andy kaufmann" sort of thing, he's really doing joyce james….

ed "three advils for me, please…." e
pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Offline strandman

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2016, 10:07:39 AM »
Welcome to sport climbing mentality.

To know better...read Ebster guide book on climping where mountain. The part on canon is very important.

I did, first Ed's last book with Cannon is from 1987. I doubt that a lot of climbers today have ever seen this book or will ever see it.

Offline Jeff

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2016, 12:01:24 PM »
I like the abbreviated " Ebster" so that only old fart connaisseurs  would know what he was referring to 8)

Offline SA

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2016, 12:18:05 PM »
I'm surprised there hasn't been more accidents on Cannon, given all the loose rock, and inexperience. I've seen quite a few rocks knocked off on MG, by careless climbers.

Offline frik

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2016, 03:45:40 PM »
Yes. I'm even surprised someone hasn't been hurt just walking along the base.

Offline strandman

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2016, 05:08:10 PM »
I like the abbreviated " Ebster" so that only old fart connaisseurs  would know what he was referring to 8)

i have called him Edster for 30+ years

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2016, 02:16:47 AM »
I'm surprised there hasn't been more accidents on Cannon, given all the loose rock, and inexperience. I've seen quite a few rocks knocked off on MG, by careless climbers.

Often they climb one route. Moby,  and they climb it in second before climbing it on lead.

Very different than the prow, in the Yosemite, that you solo. Not sure that there is more loose rock. Before it was natural to find loos ed rock and the style was to test each hole... in sport they use there tooth brush to remove the sand of the cliff. The rock is so perfectly clean that when they expect to find the same in the mountain. For them, it is so dangerous


Offline strandman

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #11 on: June 07, 2016, 09:53:59 AM »
Compare Washington Column and moby grape..now that's  a bit more than a stretch  :o

Offline DaveR

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2016, 01:16:23 PM »
Compare Washington Column and moby grape..now that's  a bit more than a stretch  :o

Give him a break John, the wild woman he is married to has gone to his head!

Offline strandman

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2016, 01:58:57 PM »
Could be !

Soon the Mordor Wall and the Nose

Offline ridgerunner

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Re: Circus on Moby...
« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2016, 08:58:24 PM »
...."and the style was to test each hole..."

Yes, those were the days ! (when sex was safe and climbing dangerous)