Author Topic: trad plan for next summer  (Read 1534 times)

Offline lucky luke

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trad plan for next summer
« on: August 04, 2016, 10:09:03 AM »
when I decide to climb 5.9 in trad i understand that i have to keep the basic rules of what I learn from 5.3 to 5.8 and some thing more. to be and onsight climber and go from 5.10 to 5.11...needs more work out.
in general. most climber around the world said that you need ten hours of work out to be a regular 5.10 trad onsight
climber....on top of climbing the weekend. in that way. it is very different of sport where you can try any thing whit a bolt just aside you. placing gear need time skill and strength. so which kind of climber do you want to be, which level do you want to climb and how can you have time to do the work out, what is the ability that you want to develop. For example a guide that i know was doi g 200 crunch per night to be in top shape

as a work out I thought at some think more sustain than going to the rock gym and climbing five route of 75 feet.

Offline pappy

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2016, 03:03:14 PM »
All those hard core Brit alpinists used to say that training began once you trekked past the last bar.

They were pretty trad.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline strandman

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2016, 04:12:38 PM »
LL..I suggest the following plan

Offline eyebolter

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2016, 07:05:54 PM »
I try Boulder of V7 yesterday, very sustain but only 15 feet of roof.  If I try trad and not inside flag, maybe then I would not fall as sport climber.   Maybe if I not drink bottle of wine,  and instead do 20,000 crunches, I would be too tired to link from bottom.  Maybe helium balloons would help me do route in trad style.

Offline DaveR

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2016, 10:39:51 AM »
All those hard core Brit alpinists used to say that training began once you trekked past the last bar.

They were pretty trad.

A+++++++++++++

I have a Russian friend who will drink like a fish in the tent at night and then climb hard and scary terrain the next day at 6000M with a cigarette in his mouth all day and I can't keep up with the bastard!

Offline strandman

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2016, 02:47:54 PM »
I'm still stuck on 10 hours training to go from 5.9 to 5.10 ? At that rate,in a week, you could go to 5.12 easy...is there agraphor maybe an APP Like ????

It's just magic..it just happens   ::)

Offline pappy

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2016, 08:18:17 PM »
I'm still stuck on 10 hours training to go from 5.9 to 5.10 ? At that rate,in a week, you could go to 5.12 easy...is there agraphor maybe an APP Like ????

It's just magic..it just happens   ::)

dude, don't rain on the parade. I just found out that I can, like, do training stuff for the next couple of weeks and then go tag Stage Fright. A dream realized.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline krankonthis

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2016, 08:12:50 AM »
You wont need ten hours to figure the gear out on Stage Fright.  Its only 7 or 8 pieces.  The Balls though...
Sam

Offline kenreville

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2016, 10:08:03 AM »
"most climber around the world said that you need ten hours of work out to be a regular 5.10 trad onsight
climber...."

This line alone shows what a clown you are. Where did you find the time to poll "most climber(s)" for all this information? Or perhaps there's a sentence in FOTH that has your panties all twisted up? Your feeble attempts to compartmentalize (accent on MENTAL) all things climbing is inane at best. In all your tries be the "best" in your little compartment (trad onsite), makes me wonder, do you really enjoy climbing at all? Or is it just an activity that you feel you can control others' experience? And be "better" than them.

For the record, I have numerous friends who can off the couch lead 5.11 as easy as a walk in the park- NO training at all. If they do decide to train, they're 5.13 climbers. Point being, there are people who are better suited and better at climbing than you'll ever be. Get over it.

What do you do when you come upon a bolt? Never ever clip it?

Offline strandman

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2016, 10:14:33 AM »
You wont need ten hours to figure the gear out on Stage Fright.  Its only 7 or 8 pieces.  The Balls though...
Sam

Gonna need more  than a couple.

Offline DaveR

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2016, 12:31:19 PM »
You wont need ten hours to figure the gear out on Stage Fright.  Its only 7 or 8 pieces.  The Balls though...
Sam

Gonna need more  than a couple.

Do a search and you will find the gear listed on this site that those 2 young guys used a couple of years ago when they did it ground up!

Now all you need is a couple of weeks in the gym and big balls Pappy and your good to go. Have fun!! ;D

Offline strandman

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2016, 05:35:20 PM »
Jimmy Surette said--"it's like genesis(in Eldo) with out the bolt" Well I couldn't do genesis  and got the SF crux once on TR.

Maybe I should do more crunches ::)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: trad plan for next summer
« Reply #12 on: August 07, 2016, 07:48:35 AM »
Jimmy Surette said--"it's like genesis(in Eldo) with out the bolt" Well I couldn't do genesis  and got the SF crux once on TR.

I know that jimmy surette do laps in....the prow!!! as a training. he climb the hundred meters with a top rope from the top. I also know that webster do a training to place pro in barber wall. they used all is rack in hard situation like the crux of a pitch in top rope.

I also heard that they prefer to climb with trad climber with the same mentality, althought he didn't have choice of the partner and was piss off by some dangerous climber.