Author Topic: Hidden gems, discussion  (Read 1791 times)

Offline ralbert20

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Hidden gems, discussion
« on: August 14, 2016, 10:03:49 AM »
I have done lots and lots of routes in North Conway. What are some suggestions on classic hidden gems, link ups, etc? For example, I had never thought of doing the book into recom-beast...

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2016, 10:11:07 AM »
Some hidden in plain view favorites:

Raise the Roof/Liger

Cold Day in Hell - Tranquility - Inferno

Toe Crack into Thin Air with 5.8 finish

Offline ralbert20

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2016, 11:40:27 AM »
I agree, those are all great! (Done them all this year)

Offline kenreville

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2016, 06:49:34 PM »
George Hurley's Hyperspace at the Outback Cliff.

JoeC

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2016, 10:22:09 PM »
I recently did hth>inferno>here come the jugs.  Thats a fun link up but done all the time without here come the jugs.  While brushy and a bit dirty what an awesome pitch!  Super fun. 

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2016, 12:14:42 PM »
try Hidden In Plain View and My Man Friday at Humphreys.
Al Hospers
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Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2016, 08:44:17 PM »
Here come the jugs, did that years ago and it was fun! That .9 to the right is good too but awkward...

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2016, 07:18:08 AM »
did pinnacle buttress yesterday. very cool. Forgot my harness so tied directly in to the rope, belayed with munter and climbed in approach shoes whick made the 5.8 pitch a bit stiff. great route and a decent hikeing day when you hoof it from Pinkam. did not seem as well traveled ad WG or Moby but certainly worth the hike.

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2016, 08:56:28 PM »
First time? Wow. That 5.8 pitch lost a hold a few years ago and I think it is slightly harder without it. Still better than that Allis Chimney original line though! Fixed pin city though once you get off that nice ledge. Did you do the "Fairy Tale Traverse"? It's not to be missed IMO. Next time I want to check out the .9 variation to the right of that 5.8 pitch...

JoeC

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2016, 09:33:35 PM »
Theres a .9 variation to that pitch?  Uh.  That 5.8 pitch has always got my attention.  Its not bad once you find the hidden hold.  That last few moves are my favorite.  Awesome positiom once you stand up on that little pedastal thing.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2016, 08:17:00 AM »
We did not have a guide or topo printout. Just winging it w/ no harness and approach shoes. the 5.8 pitch felt pleanty hard. I missed that thing where you downclimb  over the  edge and accross the face. When you do that do you continue straight up the corner or do you exit right through the blocky looking crap above and right of the last corner?  It's a reasonably burly hike.  When started at Pinkam and including the summit it almost felt like a teton day ;D  the summit was reminicent of jenny Lake, complete with the foreign speaking tourists...

Offline ralbert20

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2016, 05:38:18 PM »
the 5.9 pitch is no joke - be very careful with rope drag though - last time I did it, I wanted to throw myself off the route!

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2016, 09:43:54 PM »
did pinnacle buttress yesterday. very cool. Forgot my harness so tied directly in to the rope, belayed with munter and climbed in approach shoes whick made the 5.8 pitch a bit stiff. great route and a decent hikeing day when you hoof it from Pinkam. did not seem as well traveled ad WG or Moby but certainly worth the hike.

Traddy,

Forgot your harness?  Forgot your ATC??  Forgot your climbing shoes??? And then you lost your camera????

Whoa dawg!  WTF is up wid dat?..

Is it time for an intervention by your friends and/or family???

ed "sounds like either "more or less" of whatever your doing would be a good call..." e

Ps 😉  Just in case...
pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #13 on: August 21, 2016, 10:52:32 PM »
...I missed that thing where you downclimb  over the  edge and accross the face. When you do that do you continue straight up the corner or do you exit right through the blocky looking crap above and right of the last corner?  It's a reasonably burly hike.  When started at Pinkam and including the summit it almost felt like a teton day ;D  the summit was reminicent of jenny Lake, complete with the foreign speaking tourists...

You don't need to down climb per say to get to the Fairy Tale Traverse... basically after the 5.8 pitch just trend hard right... there is an optional pin belay where you are looking down into Pinnacle Gully but I skip that and get a gear anchor a few steps up at what I think is the real start of the exposed "traverse" pitch. Much better communication after finishing the FTT. The exposure is great and it really is only 5.5.



More pics here

https://nealpinestart.com/2015/08/18/northeast-ridge-of-the-pinnacle/

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2016, 06:14:52 AM »
 the way we did it I  would have had a short pitch to make an anchor there but a super long pitch to do the low traverse so i just boogied up the short corner and accross the ridge. yes I am getting a bit forgetfull......