Author Topic: Slab or Slab?  (Read 1368 times)

Offline rbirk

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Slab or Slab?
« on: August 29, 2016, 05:10:11 PM »
So I'm confused with the word "slab" in climbing. Some people refer to anything less than 90 to be slab, doesn't matter how many features there are. Others refer to it as something that it smooth and featureless, doesn't matter the angle (well, 90+ would be rather impossible though.. :) )  Many times it's both, but not always. So which is it? Is it both, or does one of them have a better word?
 

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2016, 05:57:40 PM »
Mellow Slab- Approach shoes preferred, handholds not needed
Scary Slab- Gonads required, where are the frickin' handholds?
Steep Slab- A face climb that is missing handholds

 ;D

I think if it is highly featured it's more face climbing than slab climbing. Like Mt. Forist IMO is mostly mellow face climbing vrs. purer slab routes, like Whitehorse Slabs...

As with most things in climbing the distinctions can blur!

Offline Jeff

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2016, 07:17:43 PM »
I like Dave's definition-- reminds me of my friend Rocky Keeler's (RIP) 3 ice climbing grades, i.e. H(ard), VH (very H) and PFD ( pretty f'n desperate).
     As for slab, a Geordie ( Northeastern Brit) friend of mine following me on Interloper said " there's nae grips, manna" and bat-manned up the rope! He was disdainful of N.E. friction routes.
   Where does slab become what the Brits refer to as wall ( as opposed to "big wall") seems to be the key question-- probably depends on size of handholds (edges or dimples or palming) and friction or edges for the feet ( and the afore mentioned gonads) .
So, it depends ;D
« Last Edit: August 29, 2016, 07:20:10 PM by Jeff »

Offline dave095790

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2016, 07:39:07 PM »
IMO:

Slab needs to rely primarily on friction, and mostly delicate footwork, minimal handwork.  Whitehorse Slab is the best example. 

Once it is too steep for relying primarily on friction, I consider it "low angle face."  Low angle face can still be slabby in appearance and texture, but you are mostly edging or smedging on those feature vice utilizing friction (and the bolts generally become more normally spaced, vice "slab" spacing). 

Face climbing would be the stepper version of "low angle face" and would generally be more featured, either bolt protected because of the inability to adequately protect with trad gear, or featured enough for trad protection. 

To me, the idea of "steep slab" seems impossible because your cant "friction" up "steep" slab ... thus I call it "low angle face"

YMMV 

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2016, 09:17:40 PM »
The modern spurt climber definition is pretty much anything that is not past vertical jug hauling :P

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2016, 11:05:09 AM »
So I'm confused with the word "slab" in climbing. Some people refer to anything less than 90

the reason why we use the world slab is becaude it look like the smooth face of a pavement. we call diedral because the rock make an angle between two rock plane (two slab).

when they describe route before. to help to do route finding. they use image to gave a description of what you see. of course a roof is not a part of a house...it can be climb with different technique. but when you see climb the roof. like in dolomite wall... you know that the little corner will be hard. in moby... you can avoid the roof by the right

so a slab is an image of what look the rock where you have to do route finding. i will say avoid the slab if it begin at low angle and steepen futher up

Offline kenreville

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2016, 08:54:42 PM »
LLuke- have you led Dolomite Wall?
Tell me yes and you've gained a tad of credibility.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2016, 08:08:14 AM »
LLuke- have you led Dolomite Wall?
Tell me yes and you've gained a tad of credibility.
i don't know the relation between route finding in remote area and my capacity to climb a route.

when you climb sam swam song...route finding is hard and i think that at a place you have to choose between climbing a slab on the left or crack higher. The guide book. webster. said climb slab to some things higher. so a normal trad climber cant do any mistake. in that way...what i climbed is just not important for those who want to climb safe at his level
« Last Edit: September 02, 2016, 08:13:51 AM by lucky luke »

Offline kenreville

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2016, 11:42:46 PM »
You didn't answer my question- have you climbed The Dolomite Wall on Cannon?
You posted: "when they describe route before. to help to do route finding. they use image to gave a description of what you see. of course a roof is not a part of a house...it can be climb with different technique. but when you see climb the roof. like in dolomite wall... you know that the little corner will be hard. in moby... you can avoid the roof by the right".

Sounds like you've done the route. What's it like?

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2016, 01:17:19 AM »
You didn't answer my question- have you climbed The Dolomite Wall on canon[...]

Sounds like you've done the route. What's it like?

if i had to climb it an other time. i will do a direct start for the first two.pitches. they are run out and not really interesting.
the third pitch is more interesting and worth it. need to calculate protection to be safe. a fall of fifteen feet can be less dangerous than one of five. zipper effect can also be a problem.
the pitch four is wonderfull. it is where you go to the little roof if i remember. i did the route three months before my operation for carpel tunnel and my hands open. i wasnt able to trust my grip. i tried a couple of time and i avoid the roof by the right.
we dont always win against the mountain. that day my old partner. the cliff. win the game. it worth to climb...5.10 for the technique of protection. not for beginner. 89

Offline kenreville

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2016, 12:06:31 AM »
Do you consider the route to be entirely trad?

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #11 on: September 06, 2016, 12:42:05 AM »
Do you consider the route to be entirely trad?

trad is an ethic. i onsight the route without previous knowledge...bottom up. i did two try because the first time my partner was scare and unable to do the move. becauae i dont fall and didn t try the last pitch....i can say that it is an onsight
 but it is not a real onr. i have to place most of my pro. do the route fonding and bail.
i didn't rely on pro pla e by other even if i may had found fix pins in the second pitch.
i trained and climb on different roof to have a good tecnique before trying it. i analyse the weather and i know to selfprotect my party and to defends my point ofview


Offline kenreville

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #12 on: September 06, 2016, 08:36:29 AM »
You're claiming an onsite ascent yet you didn't climb the crux pitch?

A yes or no response please.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2016, 09:02:46 AM »
You're claiming an onsite ascent yet you didn't climb the crux pitch?
yes

trad is an ethic. doesn't means that  you will succeed on every route.

I have fun. i was in control and have medical condition that cause an echec without a real try...but i was onsiting all the time.

guys like you have a different ethic. it is certainly not have fun climbing because your question are boring.

Offline DaveR

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Re: Slab or Slab?
« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2016, 09:13:09 AM »
You're claiming an onsite ascent yet you didn't climb the crux pitch?
it is certainly not have fun climbing because your question are boring.

You are boring and a liar, you can't even answer a simple question. You can not claim an onsite when you didn't even do the crux pitch!

Onsite means ground up ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP, NO FALLS OR HANGS. You did not even do the route.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2016, 12:41:10 PM by DaveR »