Author Topic: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor  (Read 2654 times)

md1486

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ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« on: February 09, 2017, 03:33:38 PM »
Hi,

I have seen a few informations sources that describe easy rock climbing top rope spots in New Hampshire/Maine (Cathedral Ledge/Saco Crag/Square Ledge/Shell Pond/Jocker Cap etc). However, I'm always asking myself if thoses spots also imply a trail to go up the crag to set-up top rope, or if we need someone to lead the pitch, and then set-up the top rope anchor.

So my question is, is there some top roping spots (with bolts or trees anchor) in New Hampshire or Maine, which ALSO include a trail to go up for setting up the anchor.

Thanks  a lot !
« Last Edit: February 09, 2017, 03:41:11 PM by md1486 »

Offline Admin Al

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2017, 04:20:27 PM »
The only places I know of with easy top-rope setups that don't require leading are the Classroom and Other Classroom at the top of Cathedral Ledge and Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch. Square is actually tricky because you really need to rap down from the top and setup the ropes from a horizontal crack, or you need a lot of static line because the trees are waaaay back from the edge. from what I remember Jockey Cap in Fryeburg really has only one anchor to TR from on the right site of the left wall, above the 5.7 crack. I don't know anything about setups at Shell Pond or Saco Crag.
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Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2017, 04:32:59 PM »
Md1486... where are you coming from? Really good rock climbing with easy top access at Pawtuckaway State park near Raymond/ Nottingham NH.
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Offline danf

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2017, 07:19:14 PM »
The main face on Square Ledge is definitely tricky for top roping as Al says.  I may be wrong, but I think it's possible to do it all the way to the top (or nearly so) with a 70m rope- I've never done it but I think I have been told that.  Take that info for what it cost you.....  Regardless, you will need either a gear anchor or a good length of static rope.  On the right side of the main face, the Chimney is easier to top rope, but also tends to be more crowded.  It's an easier climb to TR, if you don't have gear I've set an anchor there with webbing or static rope back to trees before.  Gear definitely makes it easier though.  There are a couple other shorter lines further up from the Chimney too.

Pawtuckaway is a great place to TR.  Access is easy from the top, trees tend to be plentiful.  You will want a decent length of webbing or static rope there too.

There are a few shorter routes on one of the upper cliff bands at Sundown too that can be accessed from the top as I recall. 

I think almost everything at Devils Den in New Durham can be accessed from the top.  But if the gates aren't open and you don't have a decently capable off-road capable vehicle the approach can be quite long.

md1486

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2017, 07:31:30 PM »
Thanks for the infos guys

Md1486... where are you coming from? Really good rock climbing with easy top access at Pawtuckaway State park near Raymond/ Nottingham NH.

I'm from quebec city, canada, but I'm pretty often in NH for hiking/backpacking. But it would be fun if I can also add some rock climbing to my trip !

Danf: I have all my gear to build my anchors,this should not be a problem. Usually I go with a quad anchor that I set up with the right length

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2017, 08:19:43 PM »
Hi,

I have seen a few informations sources that describe easy rock climbing top rope spots in New Hampshire/Maine (Cathedral Ledge/Saco Crag/Square Ledge/Shell Pond/Jocker Cap etc). However, I'm always asking myself if thoses spots also imply a trail to go up the crag to set-up top rope, or if we need someone to lead the pitch, and then set-up the top rope anchor.

So my question is, is there some top roping spots (with bolts or trees anchor) in New Hampshire or Maine, which ALSO include a trail to go up for setting up the anchor.

Thanks  a lot !

First off, Cathedral Ledge has no "easy" top rope setups other than the newer very short "Other Classroom". The popular North End is definitely NOT easy to hike to the top of and is the scene of one fatality when a camp counselor was trying to "hike" to the top of the North End. The approach is tricky to find and requires less than secure 3rd class scrambling.

The "new or other classroom" is easily approached from above (you drive to the top of the cliff) but does not have great anchor options at the top. 50 feet of static line would help there but the routes are barely 30 feet in length so I wouldn't call it a great destination.

Since you mention Maine Acadia National Park argueably has the best top access top-roping around (Otter Cliffs) though much of it is better "top belayed" since it is a sea cliff and that presents specific challenges.

Pawtuckaway is probably the best place in NH/ME for easy top-access less complicated top-roping.

Saco Crag has some options but is also really small and short.

Shell Pond pretty much requires leading, no easy top access.

Lost Horizon, at Sundown Cliff, is a great little TR spot with relatively easy access up a 3rd class gully.  Quite a few bolted anchors can be reached above the climbs with a little caution.

Lincoln Crag in Lincoln NH has some nice TR with relatively easy to reach anchors.

Echo Crag has epicly good TR but no top access so solid 5.7 leading is nice to have to have more options.

Square Ledge has two climbs TR-able with a 60m, Chimney 5.6 and Brain 5.8. The west face is best TR'd with a 40 foot static to extend the anchors.

Barber Wall of Cathedral has great 5.9+ top-roping with pretty easy top access.

All I can think of right now but should get you started.... 

Offline JChepes

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2017, 10:17:58 AM »
The Family Wall at Shell Pond could be an option.  Although I have never done it I'm pretty sure if you skirt the left side of the cliff you could get to the top.  There are lots of trees up there from what I remember.  If not there's a 5.7(Flake route) that can get you up it pretty easily.  The cliff is very sunny so mid to late summer should probably be avoided unless you enjoy sweaty, slippery slab climbing! 

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2017, 09:23:58 AM »
A few of the cliffs in Camden, ME are top ropeable. The Verticles is pretty straight forward. It's possible to walk around to the top of Barrett's Cove to tr many of the second pitches but probably not best to take anyone inexperienced. There are other little crags that are fairly easy to tr but are fairly short and probably not worth the drive from QC. I also seem to remember Clifton having some decent tr spots, worth checking out if you're heading to Acadia.

md1486

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2017, 02:11:13 PM »
Thanks, its seems there a lot of great spots. I'll surely visit a few this summer

md1486

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2017, 09:19:07 AM »
Would a Beal Rando 8mm 20m should be long and secure enough to secure myself while setting TR Anchor/ rap down from the top to set up my Anchor ?
Thanks again

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2017, 09:06:34 PM »
Would a Beal Rando 8mm 20m should be long and secure enough to secure myself while setting TR Anchor/ rap down from the top to set up my Anchor ?
Thanks again

Where?

md1486

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2017, 09:32:09 PM »
Would a Beal Rando 8mm 20m should be long and secure enough to secure myself while setting TR Anchor/ rap down from the top to set up my Anchor ?
Thanks again

Where?

Well, my question was more in a general sense, if 65' of 8mm dynamic rope would do the job to self secure on most of those aformentioned spots.

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2017, 02:07:59 PM »
Would a Beal Rando 8mm 20m should be long and secure enough to secure myself while setting TR Anchor/ rap down from the top to set up my Anchor ?
Thanks again

Where?

Well, my question was more in a general sense, if 65' of 8mm dynamic rope would do the job to self secure on most of those aformentioned spots.

Sure, to secure yourself yes. I wouldn't use it as an anchor extension.

Offline PG

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2017, 02:26:10 PM »
When I build an anchor off of trees I only use a cordolette, 3 locking carabiners and 100 ft of 9.5 static with a static strength of 5,700 + lbs. It's simple, redundant, equalized, no extension and quick to set up. It uses minimal gear and in the end way lass expensive. There has not been an instance where I needed anything else. Please I beg you to hire a guide for a day, it will be well worth it. Nobody should get hurt Tope roping !

PG

md1486

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Re: ME/NH rock climbing top rope with easy access to set-up anchor
« Reply #14 on: February 15, 2017, 02:42:12 PM »
When I build an anchor off of trees I only use a cordolette, 3 locking carabiners and 100 ft of 9.5 static with a static strength of 5,700 + lbs. It's simple, redundant, equalized, no extension and quick to set up. It uses minimal gear and in the end way lass expensive. There has not been an instance where I needed anything else. Please I beg you to hire a guide for a day, it will be well worth it. Nobody should get hurt Tope roping !

PG

Thanks ! But of course my question was really for securing myself while setting my TR. Normally to build my anchor I use a Quad made of 7mm static cord. Pretty bombproof.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2017, 02:47:06 PM by md1486 »