Author Topic: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?  (Read 853 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« on: February 23, 2017, 04:06:18 PM »
My friend Bobby climbed Goofers on Wednesday and found 3 screws and draws on the climb as well as a Nomic on the decent trail. It was interesting because I had seen the draws up there when I rode by mid-morning on Wednesday. Someone said that there had been an accident there either on Tuesday or Wednesday and that the victim had gone to the hospital. I can't find any information about it, but I'd like to know what took place. Apparently the top most screw of the 3 was right over the top of the crux bulge, but there were no screws above that.

Hopefully they are going to be OK.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2017, 04:21:18 PM by Admin Al »
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Offline rbirk

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2017, 05:25:58 PM »
I saw a post yesterday (somewhere) from the guy on Goofers. He sprained his knee but was otherwise okay. He was looking for his gear. Now if I can only remember where I saw the post...

Offline rbirk

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2017, 05:31:01 PM »
okay, found it:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/accident-on-goofers-slab---gear-left/112509254

"Had an incident on Goofers slab and had to leave some gear behind in order to make a trip to the ER (the doc has assured me I will live - just a knee sprain). My partners in their hurry to get down, left 2 BD screws and slings/screamers in the ice. We also somehow dropped a Nomic on the way down to the parking lot.

If anybody finds any of our gear, we sure would be very grateful to get it back.

I already left messages at IME and/or EMS. My partner plans on posting something on NEICE.

Thanks. Be careful out there."


Offline Admin Al

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2017, 05:40:03 PM »
Thanks. I still don't exactly know what happened, but they are OK. Bobby & partner dropped the gear off at IME. 3 screws, draws and Nomic! That would have been an expensive incident, on top of the apparent knee sprain.
Al Hospers
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Offline Samuel.Taggart

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2017, 06:38:14 PM »
Well,  here is a brief summary:

I was belaying at the bottom of Goofers.  The leader was near the top.  I was belaying off a nice, wide, packed platform at the base of the route.  A few small chunks came down but I was easily able to dodge them because I wasn't anchored.  As he got to the top a huge watermelon sized chunk came down.  At the last second it took a bounce directly at me.  I jumped out of the way, but I put my foot into one of the holes from people postholing.  Of course I lost my balance and fell down the hill wrenching my knee because my lower leg was stuck in the whole.  I managed to get my leg out while still holding onto the brake stand, but then started sliding down the hill (it was pretty packed and icy).  I let out a bunch of slack, hoping I wouldn't pull the leader off and that I would stop before I hit a tree or something.  At somepoint I couldn't let anymore slack out.  The brake strand got tangled in something, probably me.  I came hard onto the rope and shock loaded the leader.  Luckily he was at a good stance and I didn't pull him off.  A friend was up top taking pictures so he ran over and put in a screw and clipped him to it, while I righted myself.  I could put weight on my knee, but it kept wanting to buckle inward.  I decided I was just going to wait there for them rather than try to move somewhere and injure it more.  They had no idea what happened.  Instead of rapping down the route and potentially knocking more ice on me, they decided to rap off to the side.  That's how the ice screws got left.  The nomic fell out of a pack somewhere while they were lowering me down the hillside.

I went to the ER and the doctor said I just sprained my knee.  He gave me a brace and I'm getting around ok.

So that is the story.

If you give me Bobbys contact info, I would at least like to thank him.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2017, 09:23:45 PM »
Hey Sam...

Glad to hear you're going to be OK and that it wasn't an actual fall. I hope your knee gets better soon. I will PM you Bobby's info.

Cheers
Al Hospers
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2017, 06:11:58 AM »
This highlights how critical it is for the leader to put the belayer in a safe spot. That involves reading the ice and knowing which way it will fall. You need to asses the ice fall every single time you lead something and make certain your belayer is in as safe a spot as possible. The stomped out platform that the last party used may be in a crappy spot. Use your own judgement not just the lemming approach.  In those rare situations where a safe spot is not available climb like a kitty and don't drop anything lest you injure your belayer or get yanked off the climb.

Offline Samuel.Taggart

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2017, 11:23:15 AM »
I completely agree.  We looked for a better spot, but there didn't seem to be a convenient spot that was out of the way (only time I've ever climbed there, so maybe some local might have better information).  The platform was big (although apparently not big enough) that I thought I could dodge anything that came down.  The ice looked super plastic and wasn't very chandeliered or anything so I didn't expect a whole lot to come down.   I was able to dodge several pieces of falling ice without any real problem.  One just took a bad bounce. 

Someone else mentioned they often belay off a tree way down the slope.  Apparently a 60m rope will just reach from there.  I didn't know that or I might have tried to belay from there.  It was pretty far down the slope so I didn't even consider it at the time.  Also there was also a gully down and off to the left.  Perhaps that might have been a better choice.  It kind of seemed way too far off to the side and down a ways. We weren't quite sure about the rope reaching from there either.

It all comes down to decision-making and making the best decision with the information that you have (ie. I didn't know that a 60m would reach from the tree).  We did consider icefall (which is an important consideration).  I (and my partners) deemed the risk of belaying from there acceptable.  An acceptable level of risk means there is still some risk and unfortunately it bit me.  Knowing what I know now I don't know if I would have made a different decision.  I might have belayed off the tree down the slope, but that's about it.  Again the tree was way down the slope and still directly in the line of fire, although you could possibly duck behind the tree and/or the chunks might be slowed down by the snow slope.  Although that day the snow was pretty packed so it wasn't slowing much down. Chunks were going a ways down the slope. 

Feel free to critique my decision making if you find some blindspot I am missing... I'd rather be embarrassed than put myself at risk unnecessarily.


Offline Samuel.Taggart

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2017, 11:43:09 AM »
In hindsight, the one thing I likely would do differently is tie into an anchor with a good bit of slack.  It would have kept me from going way down the slope and nearly pulling my leader off...  Although if I'm honest I often belay near steep slopes like that while ice climbing and almost never anchor in, particularly if it is the first pitch.  Perhaps I need to rethink that.

Offline dp

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2017, 04:28:24 PM »
I think the belayer should always tie in! if I'm leading and you slip and fall and I'm past a screw by 5feet I'm going to fall a minimum of 10 feet or more and more than likely get hurt. I've been climbing with guys when I say tie in and they say I'm fine,(normally newbees), and I tell them why, and if and when they start leading they can make that decision for themselves,DP

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2017, 05:14:59 PM »
I wittnessed a leader fall last weekend  where the belayer was not anchored and the leader had no gear in. She did a great job of catching him but she was on a steep slope  where it could have gone bad in a hurry. there was a tree right next to her that we used as an anchor.

Offline dave095790

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2017, 05:28:28 PM »
Woah ... a leader fall last weekend?  On ice?  Where?  Why are so many people taking lead falls on ice?

Offline Samuel.Taggart

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #12 on: February 24, 2017, 08:21:56 PM »
I wittnessed a leader fall last weekend  where the belayer was not anchored and the leader had no gear in. She did a great job of catching him but she was on a steep slope  where it could have gone bad in a hurry. there was a tree right next to her that we used as an anchor.

Rock climbing I almost always err on the side of anchoring.  Ice, I always try to weigh the ability to be mobile and dodge ice with all the other risks.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2017, 11:41:59 PM »
it was more of a snow fall. leader was transitioning from ice to snow and I assumed the sticky snow balled up and helped them come off but it was a steep spill in a spot that could have been ugly. the belayer did a great job braceing and  catching the fall unanchored.  there was a tree right next to the belayer that we slung and anchored into as it is a steep slope with some grade1 or 2 ice below it.