NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: [1] 2   Go Down

Author Topic: Ice tool suggestions  (Read 319 times)

monkeyguyy

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Ice tool suggestions
« on: October 17, 2004, 11:47:45 AM »

I'm looking to buy a pair of ice tools and hoping fo rsome advice.  I plan on doing probably 70% waterfall ice and 30% alpine sonw so i want tools that can do both fairly well.  I've been looking around and have narrowed it down to four tools: grivel alp wings, bd rages, cm axars, or dmm flys.  Any thoughts?  I'm also open to other suggestions of other tools since I only narrowed my choices from reading about them online, although I have used axars and liked them alot.
Logged

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3837
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2004, 03:50:49 PM »

BD rages are heavy and have a crappy (by modern standards) grip. Axars way better. I really like my Venoms and as long as you don't have fang attachment on them they are fine for gullys. I personaly Hate Grivel picks but some folks swear by them.
Logged

Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7089
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2004, 05:42:55 PM »

I've been using the leashless tools for all my vertical ice climbing since last year. of course they aren't really a good choice for alpine climbing, so  unless you can afford to have 2 sets of tools that isn't an option for you. in that case to my mind the BD Cobra is the perfect compromise tool. it swings great and climbs vertical ice extremely well. in the mountains it's strong and the shaft plunges well in neve. the tools you mention are OK, but I think you would be better served with a pair of Cobras. they are often on sale these days as well.

one other possibility is the Trango Madame Hook. if you get the "kit" version you get the straight as well as the leashless shaft. it does climb very well in both configurations. it looks strange, but you will be very impressed about how well you can climb vertical & overhanging ice with it and without the leashes.

Al
Logged
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3837
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2004, 08:39:55 PM »

I thought cobra as well for the versitility but was not sure if the price was still really high?
Logged

Schandy

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 184
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2004, 07:10:07 AM »

I have the alp wings.  Grivel picks are some of the best out there, but with a file and a little patience, you can make all of the picks work pretty well.  I got a great deal on the alp wings a few years ago, and that was a big part of my choice to buy them.  If I were to do it again I'd get a pair of quarks.  The 70% of the time you are climbing waterfall they will kick ass, and most technical tools aren't the best for plunging anyways.  I think plunging, at least here in new england, is a vastly over-rated feature.  Maybe if youre up in the alps or the high rockies and you need a little security, plunge away, but here in VT, I mostly plunge to haul my fat ass up the approach to the base of the climb.  That being said, I heard the new quarks have a pinky rest that might make them really hard to plunge.
Logged

scottie_c

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 156
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2004, 07:46:53 AM »

I love my cobras, and am more on the 50-50 end of things
Logged

cowboy

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 29
  • twisted steel and sex appeal
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2004, 02:20:18 PM »

Tradman, I think you got your icetools mixed up with your favorite 80's deathmetal band (Venom rules!) ;D

I'm real happy with my bd rages especially with the undersized grip he is referring to. I feel like I can really wrap my hands around a smaller grip just like in tennis or golf (please, no jokes). Conversely, doing benchpress , curls, or pull-ups with an oversized bar is more difficult.

I would consider the charlet aztar also.  I don't buy French stuff, but you may. My .02$
« Last Edit: October 18, 2004, 02:22:39 PM by cowboy »
Logged

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2004, 02:29:45 PM »

I've got some CM Quarks.  I've used them for two seasons so far and love em... but for your very first set you might as well go for a bargain, even a pair of straight shafts.  See the pics on pg 194 Rick Wilcox's guide.  They'll do every thing you need them to, and when you start climbing Grade 5+ all the time invest in some more aggressive tools, and use you straight-ones as loaners...
Logged

rockytop

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 74
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2004, 03:14:40 PM »

Plunge-smundge.  ;D
Get the tools that climb steep ice well for you and just make sure they will plunge OK. I'd rather be a little inconvenienced on easy ground once in a while than on steep hard ground all of the time. Most tools with a pick on the bottom will work just fine.
As always, experience will be one of your best tools.
Logged

T_Moon

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 281
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #9 on: October 18, 2004, 04:18:10 PM »

I second Cowboy on Rages.  I prefer the smaller diameter grip, too.  That's why I went with Vipers instead of Cobras when I upgraded this year.

Monkeyguyy was thinking about DMM Flys, too.  I had a pair and they climbed pretty well.  They definitely are light tools.  With the demise of Craggers spare picks would be hard to come up with locally.

What are people's thoughts about the Viper Fang?  Does it really make the Viper a functional leashless tool?

Troy
Logged
If you want to get to the peak, you ought to climb without giving it too much thought.

--Nietzsche

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3837
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2004, 05:38:18 PM »

Yeah i got my toolz mixed up ::) I have Vipers( I think) TheBD tool that accepts the fang. the fang is a good knuckle protector. I am not certain how much it improves your grip?  I only use The fang on my fretting hand(guitar) to protect the fingers. the ergonamic grip is so good  that you don't really need the fang. the rage is inferior because with the skinny non ergonamic grip it easily spins in your hand when it is wet and icy. The guys that love the rages are most likely tying to talk themselfs into beliveing that they spent their money well. or they haven't tryed a Viper or Quark. This is common. ask most guys how good their tools are and allmost everyone loves that tool they dumped a load of cash on. I don't operate that way. If it under performs in any area you WILL hear me bitching about it. There is little excuse for buying a tool in this day and age that does not have a Ergonamic grip. The Quark grip is the best with the grivel and Viper pretty close seconds. the curved grip on the cobra and black profet tools works well also. rage grip is straight, skinny and allmost as slippery as an old school straight tool.
Logged

Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7089
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2004, 09:11:35 PM »

I have one Viper that was a prototype. I put a Fang on it & it really climbs well. it's got a more agressive curve than the Cobra and it's 8 grams lighter. (really, you can read the review on the site here!) Kevin Mahoney climbs with Vipers & does a lot of stuff like Dropline leashless with it. it's a very nice tool. I just think that if I could only afford one set of tools for everything the Cobra might well be the ones. I think that the prices have dropped since last year as well.

Al
Logged
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3837
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2004, 07:25:37 AM »

I really like the Vipers. I think they clean a bit easier than a Quark but the Quark sticks a tiny bit easier. Both are killer tools. cobra has a sick swing and seems to be a good all arround tool I personaly am a bit leary of carbon fiber shafts. My buddy broke 2 black profits. anyone ever hear of a cobra breaking??
Logged

Schandy

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 184
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2004, 07:51:47 AM »

Never seen a carbon fiber ice tool snap.  I've seen other CF stuff break suprisingly easily.  In my experience it doesn't really break, but rather unravels.  Either way, I'd soil myself if I was leading.  There was a picture of a broken grivel aluminum shafted ice axe floating around somewhere last year.  I think it was an ADK guides tool.  Its all part of the fun!
Logged

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3837
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Ice tool suggestions
« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2004, 09:08:04 AM »

NOT :o If i shell out 500 clams for a set of tools the BETTER NOT BREAK 8) MY friend was leading when his black profit hamdle broke and left him hanging from the wrist loop :o
Logged
Pages: [1] 2   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.204 seconds with 22 queries.