Author Topic: A2 pulley injury  (Read 217 times)

Offline Nick Grant

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A2 pulley injury
« on: June 03, 2017, 10:35:21 PM »
I know that there's reams of stuff online about A2 pulley injuries, and I've read a lot of it.  But I still want to ask the been-there-done-that NEClimbs crew for a little first-hand advice on pulley injuries.

In April, I strained (partial tear maybe?) the A2 pulley on the middle finger of my left hand.  I haven't climbed in seven weeks.  Initially, on the palm side, the fleshy part of the third joint (below the second knuckle) was very sore (if I lightly squeezed it with my other hand, that is.)  Now, 80-90% of that soreness is gone.

When I start climbing again, it'll be on easy climbs, and I'm going to H-tape that finger.  Given my description of where I am in the recovery process, when do you think that I can start climbing again?  How long should I go slow (juggy climbs) and be real careful?  How long does this comeback process take?

Lastly, for those of you who have had this injury, did you squeeze a stress ball or massage the finger or do any other sort of rehab or therapy?  All I have done is rest the thing and not climb.

Thanks for any advice about your recovery from this injury.

Offline AlpineIceRock

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Re: A2 pulley injury
« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2017, 09:22:13 AM »
Hey Nick,

I ruptured a tendon in my ring finger last year so I can relate to this. I had to take 3+ months off and likely should have waited longer before climbing again, all things considered. 16 months later I don't have any real pain in my finger but it feels significantly weaker than it did before and I continue to tape it any time I climb. I would recommend you do some sort of finger rehab (I didn't do this and regret it) to get some of that power back. Just take it super slow with things like stress balls and grip trainers.

When climbing back in the gym or outside, stick to easier climbs for a bit. If you feel no pain and that goes well, slowly work your way back up. But definitely tape! I found the H-tape method always felt insecure. I would take two thin lengths of tape and do more of an X tape, if that makes sense.

Good luck

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: A2 pulley injury
« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2017, 09:08:51 PM »
Thanks, A.I.R.  I appreciate the input.  The tough part is going to be being patient and conservative. (Obviously, I'm about the billionth climber to say that.)

Offline HangingChad

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Re: A2 pulley injury
« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2017, 08:23:57 AM »
I've been through a few tendon/pulley injuries.  My most recent I wasn't able to climb anything 'difficult' for about 9 months.  After 4 months of rest I started climbing easy routes (mainly because I needed to work).  I never taped for this injury.  In the past I would tape while I was recovering but now I find if I need to tape, I am climbing too hard and just going to hurt myself again.  I have been using these for recovery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Unit-Acupunture-Accupressure-Sujok-Body-Massage-Ring-Relief-Stress-USA-SELLER-/172040967676?hash=item280e70d5fc:g:wWoAAOSwSHZWfbo4

After those 9 months I was able to climb at full-strength again and without pain or taping.  I have some bowing and lumps in my fingers though.  No more bouldering for this guy.