Author Topic: TR: 6/10 Big Plum (R-L Girdle of Cathedral Ledge)  (Read 296 times)

Offline dave095790

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TR: 6/10 Big Plum (R-L Girdle of Cathedral Ledge)
« on: June 12, 2017, 10:55:09 am »
Last year Rob and I worked the King Crab (L-R Girdle)) to about the halfway point.  This past weekend Rob's friend, Andy, and I worked Big Plum to about the 1/3 point. 

TLDR:  These two objectives, and I imagine the Whitehorse equivalents, are SPECTACULAR and deserve more attention. 

Andy and I started pretty late (9am) on Recluse, which, like always, is a total ass-kicker - hardest move I have ever attempted, and not even close to getting it free yet. 

We made five pretty short pitches moving around the left.  Our route-finding seemed contrary to the description, but I could not see how the description could be followed (the description wanted us to be a little higher, but then we would still climb UP to the Diedre Terrace; we seemed lower and still ended up traversing straight into the Diedra Terrace).  The last pitch getting to the Terrace had about 12 feet of A0 traversing that would probably go free around 5.9 or 5.10, but the feet were so slippery from lichen and other sediment that it was impossible (for me, at least, YMMV). 

We went down P4 of Diedra and up the first portion of Budapest and found what might be the WORST looking nest of tat I have ever seen, I actually broke and pulled one of the slings off without even trying.  We added a new dyneema equalized anchor and left a locking biner.  The penji was pretty crappy, a really tough angle, and I needed to swing and slam a cam into the crack in order to leverage my way over to the anchor on the Wez. 

We made one rappel down and skier's right to a bolted belay station.  From here we needed to get the first pitch belay of Remission, which had a section of lower angle face, with a couple bolts but then a LONG way with only one very small, very precisely placed nut (that would hold a small fall, but probably not a big one - and I was definitely into BIG fall terrain; but, the fall would have been about as clean as it gets, so probably pretty safe); on the second half of the pitch there was a loose flake that was a crucial hand and foot hold, but easily could have come off (it required 100% "down, not out" mentality).  This pitch is listed at 5.7 in the description, and might be right, but it sure felt more serious than 5.7. 

We climbed P2 of Remission, and took one look at P3 and decided it was time for some cold beer.  It looked HIDEOUS.  I think this would be the mental crux, or perhaps needing to find an alternative to avoid having to climb that wet, nasty, slimy chimney. 

We rappelled from the fixed station at the second pitch belay.  This fixed station could use a replacement of all the junk that is there, we backed it up for the first rappel.  I would have done it, but I only had enough cordage to replace one more station and I knew the next station would absolutely need it.  We passed the first Remission belay and added cord to a two-bolt station that did not have any chains / tat on it.  One more rappel to the ground. 


1)  The first half of the King Crab is better than the first half of the Big Plum. 
2)  We did not see a soul while doing Big Plum, while we saw LOTs of people on King Crab (no doubt related to 1) above). 
3)  Both have challenging route finding in the Mordor Wall, Central Wall, Diedre Wall areas - with Big Plum that is was you start with, with King Crab that is what you finish with. 

Other Comments:

1)  Start earlier (though Rob and I started pretty late last year).  I think given an early start and a little more emphasis on moving faster this could "fairly" easily go in a single day. 
2)  Bring more tat.
3)  My 3 liters of water would have been good for me, in cooler temps 2 liters would be enough.
4)  Bing one, or two, Yates adjustable slings to make the short section of pulling gear a little easier on the body (never had to resort to this on what we did on King Crab).
5)  Aiders or ladders are probably not required, I didn't need or want any on either day.
6)  Haul the pack(s) on Recluse?

I'll try and get a couple pics ... Mostly to show how gross Remission was/is. 
« Last Edit: June 12, 2017, 11:04:22 am by dave095790 »

Offline dave095790

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Re: TR: 6/10 Big Plum (R-L Girdle of Cathedral Ledge)
« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2017, 10:59:45 am »
P3 of Remission ... unappealing, to say the least. 

Offline Admin Al

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Re: TR: 6/10 Big Plum (R-L Girdle of Cathedral Ledge)
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2017, 01:37:04 pm »
very cool... and yes, some serious YUCK in Remission!
Al Hospers
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