NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: slippery when wet  (Read 131 times)

scottie_c

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 156
slippery when wet
« on: October 18, 2004, 05:23:04 AM »

6:30AM - the alarm clock chimed, time to get up. the day's faint light illuminated the cliffs enough to see that it was wet and there was cloud cover. after a hot brew and some discussion, we ponied up and and began our scottish adventure. the wind was blowing south-westerly and the temps were around 35F and didn't get much above 40F all day. we had talked about moby grape and hoped it would be doable desipite the ribbons of water gushing down the cliff. upon arriving at the base of reppy's crack, we were pleased to see the first pitch was dry. the luck of the draw had me on the sharp end first. it was just like I remembered, jam-jam, foot-foot, all the way up to the first bolts. a rest to un-tweak the ankles and warm the hands, then on to the second belay atop the butress. powell made quick work of the 2 stitched pitches, and arrived only to note that it was rather "torquey". he gathered the rest of the rack and cast off on the easiest pitch of the route. the next pitch was all me. the finger crack leading up to the crux roof had water gushing from it which proved to be a little heady. the roof was dry, so was the climbing above it to the next belay. again, powell made quick work of the climbing. for someone who says "this is my 10th day climbing this year", I was impressed - he is strong like bull. the next pitch proved to be our last. the sickle traverse was drenched, and would provide no friction. that, and the clouds overhead were darkening, so we decided to rappell. very soon after starting our descent, the rain started. after returning to the cars, we shook hands, clanged our bottles, and agreed it was a great outing.

there were 2 other parties that did the witney gilman ridge, which seemed like a more obtainable goal given the conditions.

having been my third time on moby grape, I've yet to reach the top. all with different partners and different reasons for bailing off. the descents were not without action, from stuck ropes to pouring rain, it's always an adventure.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2004, 05:29:29 AM by scottie_c »
Logged

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3837
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: slippery when wet
« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2004, 11:02:16 AM »

Kudos for the attempt in poor weather. Moby is not the best choice when the cliff is wet as you well know. the upper slabs are pretty sketch in the rain :o there are a lot of moves I would NOT want to do wet up there. what is your high point?
Logged

scottie_c

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 156
Re: slippery when wet
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2004, 11:43:58 AM »

the pitch with the sickle and the finger is where we bailed yesterday - it was just too wet and there was an impending storm.

I never noticed before, but there is a fixed anchor about 30 feet climber's left and level of the sickle. from this anchor, we were on the ground in 3 60m rappels.

the 2 other previous "high points" were from the ledge above the finger.

anyone crafty with a hammer can get a few "new" fixed nuts
Logged

tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3837
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: slippery when wet
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2004, 12:05:16 PM »

The first time I did moby we belayed from that pile of tat above and left of the sickle. made for some nasty ropedrag on the sickle pitch. thre is a good bit of varried, fun and chalangeing (for the grade) Climbing above the finger. Keep trying and i am sure you will enjoy. I would not want to climb the upper part if it was raining though. Did the Curts corner finish in the rain once and it was SCARY. I prefer the slab finish with the nice jam cracks through the overlaps to curts corner.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.173 seconds with 22 queries.