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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by Admin Al on Yesterday at 08:46:39 PM »
FWIW I've been climbing leashless for close to 15 years. first with the Trango Captain Hook's then with the original Ergo's which I still have and use, as well as a pair of carbon-fibre Cobra's for a couple of years. I've never dropped a tool climbing sans-leashes. I did drop a tool once when I was climbing leashed using my Charlet Moser Pulsar's. one afternoon on Chia I was trying to get my gloved hand out of the leash to place a screw and knocked the tool. it fell all the way down to the base of the climb. I ran the screw in and hung there while my partner retrieved the tool and I lowered an end of the rope down to get it back. I've never even had a close call while leashes, even while soloing, and I've soloed a LOT over the past 15 years - easy and hard stuff. 
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by RjBlake on February 16, 2018, 04:16:30 PM »
A few folks emailed with a variety of good points, which amount to, "this is a bad idea."  Thanks for the candid feedback. It was an interesting thought experiment for me.

(In case anyone was curious, some very experienced ice climbers basically said "focus on not falling, if you have a tool placement good enough to hold a fall, why would you fall?" and pointed out that the multiplication of force on the tool plus the potential for off-axis loading of the tool during the fall made it very likely to fail, and might give one a false sense of security.

All these points are well taken. Thanks.
Lost & Found / FOUND: gloves on the road below Crawford Notch
« Last post by Admin Al on February 15, 2018, 09:41:43 PM »
identify the gloves, brand and color, and I'll try to get them back to you.
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by Admin Al on February 15, 2018, 09:36:51 PM »
I was out today and the DOT was cutting back the snowbanks. they don't want to deal with your car, in the lines or not!
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by Homeless Junkie on February 15, 2018, 05:39:07 PM »
Ohhhh... I thought you meant in town.

 Iíve heard of trouble in those spots after snow. Right after though. I think the plows want the cars outta the way. Tickets, maybe but to come back after climbing and yo carís gone? Lame..
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on February 15, 2018, 04:49:25 PM »
Interesting topic. I personally dislike tethers but I understand there use when dropping a tool could be catastrophic (soloing big routes, long run-outs at Willoughby)... The second option is where it seems you'd lose the ability to quickly regain control of a dropped tool. If it is only connect to your climbing rope, and your last screw is 30 feet down... you've lost the advantage of classic tethers?

I also feel, probably from reading a few incidents in ANAM BitD that too many new leaders would lead over their ability and clip tools as protection when pumped, often ending in an accident.
Injuries, Medical & Training / Re: Totally bummed! Advice please
« Last post by Jeremy Cote on February 15, 2018, 01:40:25 PM »
Shit really sorry to hear that man. I have managed through several severe ankles sprains and a multitude of various lower leg injuries over the course of my athletic career (broken ankle too). The best piece of advice I can give is to find a superior sports medicine doctor, even if you have to travel to do so.

In the acute phase, you just need to immobilize the foot and keep swelling down. Stick with basic RICE first aid and NSAIDs to control swelling and pain. That is your only job. Once the swelling starts to subside (3-4 days, possibly longer) one thing I have done with good success is the contrast bath. Hot water treatment, then cold, etc. etc. The theory is that this helps draw blood in, then subsequently flushes it out as capillaries expand and contract. Best also to utilize a hot tub for this and put your ankle right on the jets as this also simulates micro contractions in the muscles--or so the theory goes. I will say that the evidence for this in treatment is mixed, but that may be due to comparability issues with various studies. See this:

That said, there is a psychological benefit and I felt it helped with managing the soreness I felt.

It sounds like you have a slightly more complicated situation with what could be an avulsion fracture so I would definitely listen to your doctor. That said, there are some real shitty practitioners out there so find someone that is good and you trust. Same thing for physical therapists. Injury recovery is more a mental game than anything. The body always recovers. Read up on treatments etc., so you have a baseline of knowledge when listening to your doctor. The big issue with this type of injury is whether the treatment involves surgery or going with a brace. This is likely a decision you will have to make at some point, or one that will be made for you given the particulars of your injury. There are pros and cons to both. The conservative approach is to go for a non-invasive treatment, but every situation is different. The biggest hurdle to long term success is getting back on your ankle too soon and re-injuring it. It's a slow process, just listen to your body. You will be fine.
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by rbirk on February 15, 2018, 01:29:15 PM »
I know of IME guides getting cars towed by Barking dog and others who had towing on pullouts on Rt16 north of Jackson. Seems they are extra vicious nowadays.
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by powdergibbs on February 15, 2018, 09:25:14 AM »
I've thought about this a lot myself and I think you're onto something. I do use umbilicals and think the BD spinner is currently the best available on the market. That being said there's room for improvement. The image of a popped tool is one I try not to think about when leading or following ice, as I'm fairly certain something like that would ensure should I lose grip of my tools (and yes I know I know don't let go)

The problem with any alternative solution lies in the dynamic situation here. Statically the situation is great, add momentum to the equation and things get ugly, particularly if the fall is eccentric to the tool (not symmetrically) To me the most logical solution would be to still clip into the belay loop, but make the umbilical portion out of dynamic rope with a 22kn load rated spinner and a screamer. If you were dead set on the rope you'd have even more stretch in this system so, why not combine a locking carabiner clove hitched just beyond your figure 8 with the screamer, higher load rated spinner, and dynamic rope leashes? I'm sure no company out there would ever stamp a seal of approval on it, nor would I. My guess is they've made things lower rated as a breakaway feature in an effort to avoid the popped tool impalement.

Not falling is obviously the way to go like you mentioned, but lets all be honest with each other - if not falling was the only option why do we bother dragging all that metal up there in the first place? Oh yeah the what if! I see this the same way. Solution looking for a problem, maybe, but its fun to think about anyways. This would be a fun project to test.
Lost & Found / Found - Nomic at Cannon
« Last post by nickA on February 15, 2018, 07:45:49 AM »
I found a Petzl Nomic at Cannon on Monday 2/12/17. It's behind the counter at IME now. Describe the tool to them and leave those guys a six pack (minimum).

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