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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: mopowers on June 16, 2013, 07:07:37 AM

Title: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: mopowers on June 16, 2013, 07:07:37 AM
Planning a day trip out to The Captain this week. The goal is Puttin in Time. Anyone know the condition of the belay anchors on each pitch? Looking at the photos on MtProject the protection bolts look old. I can deal with the old pro on route but am not comfortable with poor rap/belay bolts. I am willing to replace the anchors with stainless bolts and rings if it is required. If its already been done that would be a lot less weight to pack in.

Whats the current approach time? 3-4 hours? If its over 4 hours i am not interested anymore. 
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: strandman on June 16, 2013, 10:49:21 AM
Depends if Sawyer road is open.. it's really long haul from 302.   if the road is open, then 2 1/2 -3 for a first visit
The original bolts are 3/8" x 2.25" and placed in '97.. only the top of P2 is semi hanging at all. the rest are ledges.

i have no problem with replacements..... the climbing go pretty quickly and P2 &3 can be combined... minimal gear needed
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: kenreville on June 16, 2013, 01:59:14 PM
Sawyer Rd. is open.
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: strandman on June 16, 2013, 09:07:11 PM
Almost forgot.. i'm old.. the first 2 protection bolts are 5/16" buttons and maybe one atop P1 all else are nut heads

have fun.. a top 5 f/a for me.. maybe a top3
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: terminusnout on June 17, 2013, 10:28:54 AM
David,

if the road is open, get at it, very easy with a bike to get in, At the last big clearing ditch the bikes and walk the old forest road up to the cliff, pass the campsite and camp under a large boulder at the base of the cliff, the trail is pretty well worn at this point and shouldnt be too much of a bitch to follow. The boulder bivi lets you be right near the cliff and one side is totally overhanging so you dont need a tent.

I have done putting in time twice, once with garlough and we got eaten alive by black flies, the other was in the fall and it was perfect. The bolts are in good conditon, the crux pitch is amazing sustained 11 thin face climbing.

I would be ready for black flies this time of year......

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107410270
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: mopowers on June 17, 2013, 05:52:25 PM
Thanks all.

The pic in the link you provided Casey does make me question my plan. I did not notice all the flies until i zoomed in, wow!. I do have a bug net that i am going to bring.

John, i thought the route was much older than 97. I have wanted to get out there for a while. Looks great.
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: terminusnout on June 17, 2013, 06:00:08 PM
Post up if you go, that 11 pitch is worth it in itself.
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: strandman on June 17, 2013, 06:15:38 PM
'Snout.. i love fucking love it "the trail is pretty worn"  classic..

You MIGHT get some relief up higher from bugs , but...  A round trip now is 8-10 hours ???
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: terminusnout on June 17, 2013, 07:04:28 PM
Strando-the day garlough and I went in only to get molested by the flies we came in and out in one day and it was prob around 7 hours round trip, you gotta remember once you get to the bikes its 20 minutes out......

The last time I was out there with Garlough, it had become pretty obvious where the trail was, yes its still a very lean trail corridor but if you think about it the Chino's have put up quite a few routes in there and usually roll in packs so its have been getting more foot traffic in the past two years than it has in the last 20.

such a beautiful spot, cant wait to get out there this fall, the slabs on the right side have major potential.
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: strandman on June 17, 2013, 08:58:35 PM
yes-- feel free to finish up Illusions///  sweeet rock
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: M_Sprague on June 17, 2013, 09:26:49 PM
Sorry I can't make it out with you guys this trip. Well, sort of, Ha Ha Ha (http://www.neclimbs.com/images/instantReports/0_4.gif)You should take a before and after picture, sotto voce, for the reconstructive surgery.

Good Luck!
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: mopowers on June 19, 2013, 07:52:50 PM
Made an attempt with Slacker today and failed. We ended up on what i think was Hancock Notch Trail. We hiked for about 3 hours until the trail sharply headed down hill, then we knew we were in the wrong area. Sad part is Slacker has been there before!  :D

We know the way now after a bit of recon on the way back. Going to try again next week.
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: terminusnout on June 22, 2013, 04:22:20 PM
send me a pm with your number david and I can get you some straightforward info.
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: Chinos on June 24, 2013, 09:13:46 AM
David,

Let me know when your going again. i have the approach dialed 2 1/2 hours. I want to get back out and finish up some lines! Puttin in time is killer! the bolts are fine but could use quick links and rings. I think i may have left some biners last trip up it?

The first few four pitches of Captain Jameson are pretty fun as well.

Good Luck,

Jonathan Garlough
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: mopowers on June 26, 2013, 10:59:49 AM
 The weather sucks right now for going out to The Captain. I dont see one good climbing day in the extended forecast.

When i have more time i will get in touch with you guys about directions. We could all even hook up for a trip.

cheers,
David
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: strandman on June 28, 2013, 12:45:35 PM
mo- you should check out Stairs.. the lower cliff will be buggy, but the next two up are usually windy. Right off the trail   a pretty sweet 2 pitch 11+ tons ore to do
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: mopowers on June 28, 2013, 02:29:19 PM
mo- you should check out Stairs.. the lower cliff will be buggy, but the next two up are usually windy. Right off the trail   a pretty sweet 2 pitch 11+ tons ore to do

Funny you say that strand. I almost went this morning for a recon hike in the rain. Talked with Slacker about possibly going this weekend.
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: Chinos on June 29, 2013, 08:37:01 AM
let me know i am itching to get out to stairs as well. I think its wilderness area?
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: M_Sprague on June 29, 2013, 08:45:57 AM
Do you know Brady Libby, John? I think he lives around your way, in Gilmonton. He would be a good source of beta for the Stairs and Back Stairs. My understanding from him is it is ok to bolt, but you aren't supposed to use a power drill. He ran into a ranger out there and that is what she said. Bikes would be out too once you get to the boundary
Title: Re: The Captain anchor condition
Post by: strandman on June 29, 2013, 12:30:31 PM
Do any of the new anchor rules apply ??? I THINK you can bike in a ways and this helps.. certainly a large amount of rock.


Also one of my top 3 NH swimming holes ,,, not the one at road end, that's OK, but 200 yds south... outstanding