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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: M_Sprague on May 01, 2012, 07:51:46 PM

Title: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: M_Sprague on May 01, 2012, 07:51:46 PM
There is a nice new 10 bolt (I think ) slab route out at Green's, at the Main Cliff, between Black Flies CJD and Green Party. It is the approach pitch to the steep flake project above. It is on really good quality rock and is a full half rope length. I cleaned and mostly bolted it last Fall, and went out with Dave Powers this weekend to finish it. I gave him the chance for the unchalked on-site, which he managed handily. It felt about 11a in the perfect slab climbing temps we had, but we are calling it 11b for now so not to sandbag too much for normal temps. It awaits your confirmation.

We also did some cleaning. The second pitch of Stewart's Crack is almost good to go (probably already much cleaner than when Jim Dunn first did it) and Dave cleaned His 12a Moldy Bolts to pretty spic and span. That thing is hard!
Title: Re: New 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: Admin Al on May 01, 2012, 08:14:54 PM
nice Mark...
Title: Re: New 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: alclimbup2 on May 02, 2012, 06:49:25 AM
How is your knee doing Mark?
Title: Re: New 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: M_Sprague on May 02, 2012, 08:56:45 AM
How is your knee doing Mark?

It has been fine so far, thanks. I have been carefull to not crank really hard up the hills when hiking and paying attention to my form when jumarring so as not to torque it too much. I am also planning to do regular light biking to strengthen the muscles around them. I have been told that helps a lot.
Title: Re: New 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: strandman on May 02, 2012, 09:52:42 AM
How was cleaning Stewart's ??  P2 looked hideous.

Green's will have 100 quality pitches.. easy
Title: Re: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: M_Sprague on May 02, 2012, 10:41:19 AM
Digging the big stuff out was not too bad. I had a little hand mattock. There are some old dead roots in some of the jams that I may have to break apart with a wood chisel (or just leave for a year). The fine cleaning to make it super nice may take another day, but I may leave that for Amy to finish, as she volunteered. My attention already got waylaid by the thin seem to the right, which I put a TR anchor on to work. It goes up off the same big belay  ledge, and is super technical thin edge climbing to a line of one finger solution pockets up the seam. It is an open project if anybody wants to get on it. I did pretty much all the moves on TR the other day, but don't want to put any lead bolts in it until I am sure it goes and I finish  another line. It would be a sport pitch since there is no real gear.
Title: Re: New 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: terminusnout on May 03, 2012, 08:30:51 PM
I commend you on cleaning that second pitch, when I did stewart's in 2007 I took one look at the pitch and rapped. That's a hefty cleaning effort. Have you had pretty consistent weather out there lately? I was up near the captian last weekend and it was around 15 degrees overnight and pissing snow. Long approach from 302 though, even with bikes.
Title: Re: New 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: old_school on May 04, 2012, 09:55:11 AM
I am making Green's a top proprity this year. Sounds like some great routes out there. Thanks for all your efforts Mark, it will be great having another backcountry destination.

grammy
Title: Re: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: mopowers on May 14, 2012, 12:23:53 PM
Quote
I am making Green's a top proprity this year

Green's is one of the most impressive pieces of stone around. Be sure to get out there Grammy. Stewart's Crack has been on my mind since i last was there. Two pitches of jamming that is just my speed, 5.9 or so. Greenpeace is also another amazing two pitch crack. Its a great lead even if you have to french free through the hard parts like i do.

Post up when you think you might make it out there. It would be fun to meet up with some fellow NEclimbers and go out for a day.
Title: Re: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: M_Sprague on May 14, 2012, 05:33:53 PM
It looks like CrazyTom and partner got the first post cleaning ascent of the second pitch of Stewart's. The top anchor only has one bolt (1/2") so far since I ran out of hangers, but there is a pine tree near it that you can sling as a back-up. I put the top anchor a little below the lip, to save the tree and protect the top of the cliff, since it will be a popular route for the cliff. (Edit- The top anchor now has both bolts in) If you really feel the need to top out, it is only two easy moves and you can crawl into the vegetation, but I don't recommend it. Dima did a bunch more finish cleaning on the second pitch, so it should be in pretty good shape.

I didn't climb it yet, since it was wet when I was there, but I checked and you can use a #4 and 5 Camalot if you have them for the wide section.  Bring doubles of the red and especially gold sized Camalots for the first pitch.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107606195 (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107606195)
Title: Re: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: punxnotdead on May 14, 2012, 06:36:35 PM
You probably already answered this but....... how far/long is it by mountain bike to Greens. Its probably been 15 years since I have Mountain biked out in that area.
Title: Re: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: strandman on May 14, 2012, 07:26:18 PM
Would you say about an hour Mark ? then some hiking.
Title: Re: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: M_Sprague on May 14, 2012, 09:19:11 PM
I think that is about right, John. The whole way, if you bike Rob Brook Rd and bike/push by Birch hill, then dump the bike and hike is about 2 hrs  at a semi leisurely pace, slightly faster if you don't mind the river ford and come in directly from the Kanc. A few weeks ago, hiking in all the way at an easy pace via Rob Brook, it was about 2:15-30. I have had it take as much as 4 hours getting in, but that was with a ridiculously big pack and trudging like a snail. Cruising out, I can make it in about an hour with the bike.

I've got the latest version  of directions and maps on mountainproject if the ones here are not clear enough. The key is to get a good early start while it is cool. I am planning on the end of this week, but I bet the bugs will be hideous now for a while, especially along Birch Hill.
Title: Re: House Made of Dawn, new 11 slab pitch at Green's
Post by: Admin Al on May 14, 2012, 10:19:45 PM
yes, the bugs are terrible in the deep woods now...