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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: strandman on November 13, 2012, 06:30:30 PM

Title: The best ?
Post by: strandman on November 13, 2012, 06:30:30 PM
when i think of NE climbing, i think- tricky, facey, cracky with a hint of pain. the best for this ?;

Vultures 10+ a classic of this type,, not much easier than Airation

heather 12b  the definition of NE hard crack

Pine Tree8++  harder than it should be

others ???
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: JJ Jameson on November 15, 2012, 09:21:03 AM
The Prow.
Defines NE Climbing for me. It has everything. Hard Face, Crack, Overhang, all up probably the most prominent line, on one of the most visible cliffs in NE. All 5 minutes from post climb libation!
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: strandman on November 15, 2012, 05:35:02 PM
Maybe JJ- Women In love may be a better climb, but The Prow kinda defines NE climbing.

lights In the Forest- a way good route 11-ish with a chimney, overlap, and of course  runout slab. No pain though.. other than the runout on the last pitch
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: eyebolter on November 15, 2012, 07:11:29 PM
Whitehorse Standard, my first route in New Hampshire.  800 feet of consistent easy climbing with one 5.5 pitch.

Vultures is a 50 foot route that doesn't go to the top of a 90 foot cliff.  Hard to give it three stars IMHO.   Eyeless in Gaza on the same cliff is way better.
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: xcrag_corex on November 15, 2012, 09:27:17 PM
Whittney G for that alpine feel

Bombardment w/ the newer 3bolt start to Upper Refuse. Thin face, Stellar crack, mellow cruising then slightly exposed face (incredible position).

Southern NH..... P-way cracks. The Start, Far-out Jam (hands into Offwidth squeeze) and The Good Book
 
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: JJ Jameson on November 15, 2012, 10:28:17 PM
Funny, I was thinking either Prow, or Whitney G.
The fact that when you look at the cliff, from, say, a mile away, and think: "I wanna climb THAT", and there is actually a route that goes right up that line? Pretty damn cool.
I went with the Prow, for the variety of the pitches.

Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on November 16, 2012, 07:36:19 AM
 Classic lines in NH and VT that scream Climb Me from the road. Lost soles, Moby,  Direct Direct, Duet Direct, Vertigo,  WG, Prow,  Recombeast w/ prow finish, Rt 66/Sceanic loop, Flatiron, Eaglet, Eagle cliff, Upper Willard,  Great Corner  on Wheeler.

  Ragnarock, South wall,  Blind Fate Norton G, BIB, Hidden Gully and all the stuff to the right of that area.
Mind Bender, Shaker Heights, Called On Account Of Rains, Stormy Monday, Last Gentleman, Who's Who, Le  Promenade,   Float, 20 below,  Glass M, Crazy Diamond. Black Dike, Fafnir, Omega,  WITW,  some stuff on Willard, Dracula, Drop Line, Standard, the ampetheather,  Repentance, Remission.
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: DLottmann on November 16, 2012, 06:18:08 PM
Bombardment w/ the newer 3bolt start to Upper Refuse. Thin face, Stellar crack, mellow cruising then slightly exposed face (incredible position).
...

I love the regular start to Bombardment... that bolted thing is THIN... but if you could do that then Black Lung/Upper Refuse is the right finish...

Within the moderate ratings the 2nd pitch of Diagonal is hands down the best exposed 5.6 pitch on Whitehorse/Cathedral but never gets done because it's slightly tricky getting to it (Standard start, climb over chimney, up and right, or 5.8 direct start to toe crack), is a little runout, maybe 5.5R, and is listed in the guidebook as 5.9 R POISON IVY due to the 3rd pitch... but you can do two great exposed double rope rappels from the top of the 2nd pitch to avoid that nastiness and it is well worth the effort... insanely exposed 5.6... nothing like it in the NE (excluding Gunks).
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: Admin Al on November 16, 2012, 09:28:07 PM
I agree about the rising traverse of Diagonal. it's a great pitch.
Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: xcrag_corex on November 17, 2012, 12:07:46 AM
D-man, to be honest I have never done the original start. I'll have to give it a go! I have only followed black lung but you are totally right. It is better than that lower ramp on Upper Refuse.

Title: Re: The best ?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on November 17, 2012, 06:59:24 AM
If you are there on that tree ledge Black Lung is good and the Book is right there as well.