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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: Smear on June 23, 2012, 07:14:11 AM

Title: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Smear on June 23, 2012, 07:14:11 AM
I have been changing out old 1/4 inch bolts on a couple of todd swain routes(Land Ahoy 5.8 and Ground Zero 5.8+) on the slab below the Gulley #1 ice climb and have put up a couple of new routes in the process.This is a nice spot to climb on good rock.Enjoy!

Hatties Garden 5.8-   Bob Ahearn and Nick Dukehart-May 2012

Description :
The climb is located on the Gully #1 buttress below the Gully#1 winter ice climb.Fun climb with interesting moves on nice rock.The crux is at the first bolt but the first gear is about 20 ft up so there is a bit of an entrance fee but not too hard to get to.

Climb the face just left of the right hand side of the "rainbow" weakness to protection about 20 ft up on the right.A couple of balancey moves to a mantle and stance to clip the first bolt.Step a little left,pull the crux and climb up slightly left past three more well spaced bolts to the two bolt anchor on Land Ahoy.

Location :
To find the Gully#1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between the two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden on the tracks(10 min).Turn right and follow tracks for 2 minutes,cross a small drainage in the tracks and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Look for an obvious flake/arch(life By the Tracks)which forms the left side of the "rainbow"weakness.Start on the face about 8 ft left of the right hand weakness.Rappell with two ropes or with one 60m down to anchor on Part the Sea below garden terrace on left,then down and left to start of that climb.

Protection :
Gear from .4 to #3.5 Camalot for the moves before the first bolt.Then four draws to two bolt rap anchor on Land Ahoy.

Part the Sea-5.6-  Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham-May 2012

Description 
Really fun and well protected climbing up a line of quartz crystal pockets to a two bolt rap anchor.

Location 
The route is located on the Gully #1 buttress just below the Gully#1 winter ice climb.The route starts about 20 ft up and left of the toe of the slab at the 2nd of three small curvy trees.It takes a cleaned off line through a "sea " of lichen.
To find the Gully #1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min,)turn right on tracks for 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up the the cliff(10-15 min).

Protection 
Standard rack to 3.5 inches.Don't forget the Tricams!The climb can seem runout just below the anchor if you don't find the small cam placement inside one of the crystal pockets near the top.

Life By the Tracks-5.8-  Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham-May 2012

Description 
This a variation start to Todd Swain's route Land Ahoy(Websters 87' guidebook)Fun trad variation up the left side of the "rainbow"arch on the Gully#1 buttress to join at at top of the arch to Swain's land Ahoy.
Start at the small weakness at toe of the slab on left,up this trending right to the start of the arch.Protect,then up the arch to the top to join Land Ahoy.Pull that crux and climb straight up past two well spaced bolts to a two bolt rap anchor on left.Swains route starts at the base of the slab,right of the arch.climb straight up the face(5.7r) to the top of the arch,protect and continue on up past two bolts to the anchor on left.

Location 
The route starts below and left of the obvious flake/arch on the Gully#1 buttress.Rappell with two ropes or with one using the Part the Sea anchor down and left below the grassy terrace,then down and left through the clean streak.
To find the Gully 1 buttress,look for a large pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min),turn right for 2 minuts,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Protection 
Standard rack to 3 inches.double on #1 and .75 camalot size may be helpful.Two bolts on the upper part of Land Ahoy to a two bolt rap anchor.All old bolts have been upgraded in 2012.









Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: David_G48 on June 23, 2012, 07:38:48 AM
Smear
Thanks for the update. Now, I just need the guided tour being an illiterate that can not follow written descriptions.
Good Work!
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: old_school on June 23, 2012, 07:43:47 AM
They are really great routes David. You will like them...great quality rock.
~g
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: David_G48 on June 23, 2012, 08:15:24 AM
I'm sure that I will enjoy them.
Funny I was at EMS the other day and asked if Smear still worked there as I had not seen him at the store for a while and they too were wondering when he would be back as they needed the inspiring ambience that he creates. Way to go Smear! Always nice to know when you are missed.
David
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: old_school on June 23, 2012, 08:20:36 AM
Sales at EMS have dropped 35% due to his absence... ;)
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Admin Al on June 23, 2012, 09:11:04 AM
All that sounds great man...thanks for doing these. I really have to get up there and give 'em a go. As we discussed yesterday I totally agree that the way to get there is via the lower trail that starts from the pulloff on the left right at the start of the Notch. That will take you right up to the tracks at the base of Cinema. Shorter approach for sure...I always hate walking down the tracks. And in the summer and fall you have to worry a little about the trains.
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Jeff on June 23, 2012, 10:55:28 AM
Sales at EMS have dropped 35% due to his absence... ;)

Smear just can't pass up those deals on gear/clothing :D (hope this remark doesn't disqualify me for a guided tour :-*!)
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Smear on June 23, 2012, 01:01:54 PM
Grammy,talk about someone who buys alot of gear... :D
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: strandman on June 23, 2012, 02:46:18 PM
Some good climbing over in that area. Next time look over left SW and look up.. WAY up
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: DLottmann on June 23, 2012, 03:38:59 PM
Those sound awesome! Canít wait to go climb them!
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: dpen on June 23, 2012, 08:23:59 PM
Nice works guys, they sound fun.

D
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Smear on June 24, 2012, 07:48:17 PM
John,
I have looked up there from the tracks and the slab.Looks cool but the approach seems like it would be long and VERY steep.Have you been up there?
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: strandman on June 24, 2012, 07:56:01 PM
No, I came close once but never made it.. way steep groveling
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: old_school on July 02, 2012, 08:36:20 PM
John,
I have looked up there from the tracks and the slab.Looks cool but the approach seems like it would be long and VERY steep.Have you been up there?

Smear and I looked at those last time we were up there, and it just looked like hell on earth trying to reach that band of rock, but damn it looks awful good!!! Maybe this fall???  :)
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Admin Al on August 24, 2012, 12:19:34 PM
I went up to the slab yesterday and really enjoyed myself. Thanks to Smear for showing me around and to Brad for doing the topo in this weeks Report. I recommend this place. It's gonna be a super fall location.
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: old_school on August 24, 2012, 03:13:05 PM
Glad you liked it up there Al! Really fun spot with great rock.  ;)
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: tradmanclimbz on August 25, 2012, 10:57:54 AM
That thing Way up left. we always assumed that Alfonzo had been up there and soloed that thing for breakfast.....
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Admin Al on August 27, 2012, 09:18:19 PM
there is ice up there that was climbed a couple of years ago by Kurt Winkler
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: old_school on August 28, 2012, 12:56:38 PM
there is ice up there that was climbed a couple of years ago by Kurt Winkler

Yes...that slab comes in occassionally and offers a nice alternative (Pitch 1) to Gully #1 if you want to avoid the slog up the hill!  ;)
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: DLottmann on August 28, 2012, 10:58:17 PM
there is ice up there that was climbed a couple of years ago by Kurt Winkler

Yes...that slab comes in occassionally and offers a nice alternative (Pitch 1) to Gully #1 if you want to avoid the slog up the hill!  ;)

You're talking about different places. Al, and earlier in the thread, Strand, are taking about the buttress WAY up on climber left, other side of that brook/drainage (Slipstream in guidebook I believe) which is actually on Mount Willey (not Willard) and has a long steep narrow scree run-out leading to it. Winkler did climb it with a client years ago and summited Willey... then had to hike down and around to grab their packs on the tracks  :o

Smear has a good story about soloing Slipstream with me a few winters back... Polar Bear Swim Club anyone?

That slab you mentioned as an alternate start to Gully #1 is nice when in, but Gully #1 does not equate the kinda of slog the area Al/Strand were referring to... :)
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Smear on August 29, 2012, 06:30:30 AM
That was a memorable day Dman.I tell that story often now... :-\
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: slink on August 31, 2012, 04:45:07 PM
Smear great routes thanks for cleaning up the area.It is not a sport area.The Hatties garden approach is also the way to go.MT and I did not get the 2 left hand routes as it started raining pretty hard but the other routes were great Brads topo is well done also.
 Jim
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Chinos on October 30, 2012, 08:12:08 PM
There is some decent ice that forms up in the Willey Brook Ravine. This is where Streamline and Flat Foot Floogie are (in guidebook). In a gully to the right is a great steep line Candle Pin (also in the guide). To the right of that were three other flows. we climbed and recorded the routes last season. if kurt was out there climbing the others im sure he climbed these as well! i posted them on mountain project to document them....
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Chinos on October 30, 2012, 08:13:42 PM
thanks to all of those involved with bringing these old climbs back to life as well as adding some freshies!
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: DLottmann on October 30, 2012, 09:26:11 PM
Streamline is a great fun solo-romp... just make sure those pools are frozen solid <looks at Smear>
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Smear on October 31, 2012, 06:36:59 AM
Yea Dman,I did not expect to go that deep.Fun day up to that point though and I learned something also :-[
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Chinos on July 11, 2013, 06:01:58 AM
I have also plunged into that stream, a pretty fun solo
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: DLottmann on July 11, 2013, 08:58:35 AM
I have also plunged into that stream, a pretty fun solo

Didnít look neck deep to me...
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: Echo on September 08, 2014, 09:01:53 PM
Posting a great Fall destination. Smear, you gotta give me a tour here soon!
Title: Re: Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress
Post by: JBro on September 08, 2014, 09:36:17 PM
Anyone have a link to the topo mentioned earlier in the thread?