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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:43:06 pm

Title: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:43:06 pm
A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar:
(by Jamie Cunningham with consultation from Jon Sykes)


Getting there: Turn off of route 302 onto the Zealand Notch Road (closed during the winter) located between Twin Mountain and Bretton Woods.  Drive approximately .8 miles to the trailhead parking just beyond the campground areas and before the bridge at Zealand River (the paved road ends after the bridge).  Across the road (east) is a gated forest service fire access road.   They logged off of this road the winter of 2009 and it passes through fresh log landings and small clear cuts.  Walk for about twenty minutes.  To the west are great views of Mt. Hale and the cliffs on Middle Sugarloaf.  Look for a small boulder (about 8 foot cubed) located on the east (left) side of the road and just before a log skidding road also on the left.  A large clear cut will be on the west (right) side of the road.  Turn left onto this skid road and follow for about 300 feet.  At a rock cairn branch left onto a climber,s trail which leads to the left side of Mt. Oscar,s cliff after approximately 10 to 15 minutes.

Mt. Oscar Climbs: Routes are described from left to right.   There are twenty eight climbs documented here.

The first four climbs are on the wall directly above the entry trail.

1.  Crescent 5.7
This nice 5.7 starts at the obvious right facing flake and crack start (defines boundary between two walls) then trends up and left and finishes on slabs above and out of sight.   There is a bolted direct finish to this climb as well called Doh! (think Homer Simpson).

2.  ___?_______ 5.9
Climb the center bolted face to two bolt belay.

3.  _____?______ 5.9
Slab/face with series of bolts leading to 15 foot crack leading to a white prow.  Crack converts to a left facing corner that defines the left side of the prow. 

4.  Ben Zen Send 5.8
Start at left facing flake that leads to a left ascending diagonal crack. Traverse 10' on this crack and climb face above that links three intermittent crescent cracks to the top.  Can be seepy after rainy days.

5.  Moose Spirit 5.10-
Right facing flake (to right of Ben Zen Send).  Climb flake through overlap to bolt.  Climb straight up to 25' exit crack.

6.  Moose Meat (Rancid) 5.10
Located between vegetated corner/chimney (left) and dirty vegetated dike (right).  Climb flakes to bolt.  Climb to right facing triangular in-cut corner with crack leading out from it.  Ascend to the top. 

Title: Re: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:44:14 pm
Image 2
Title: Re: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:50:33 pm
7.  Randy,s Super Fine Triplelishes 5.10-
Link two shallow left facing corners to a higher shallow right facing corner to the top.

8.  Coffee Achievers 5.11
Same start as R.S.F.T.
1.   Climb first corner of RSFT to two bolt belay.
2.   Climbing from right of the belay climb bolted face to the top (5.11).

8a.  Variation:  French Roast 5.11
Direct start to Coffee Achievers.  Start on rock pedestal to right of RSFT,s first corner.  Clip bolt to under cling flake.  Gain left rising ledge to join Coffee Achievers.

9.  Bipolar Brain Flush 5.9
Start 25, right of RSFT.  Climb to bolt 10, from ground and over horizontal flake/bulge.  Climb up to bolted left leaning 5 crack to the top.

9a  Variation:  Bipolar Brain Fart  5.8 R
Direct start to Bipolar Brain Flush.  Climbs the lower dirty crack line that leads into the upper crack of Bipolar Brain Flush.  Note:  When this link up was done it was done entirely without clipping any of the bolts on BB Flush.  

10.  Oscar,s Last Stand  5.10
Eighteen feet right to Bipolar Brain Flush.  From ground climb bulge past two bolts to balsam fir with left leaning block at its base.  Climb left facing corner leading to 2, over hang.  Climb through over hang (crux).  Climb disconnected shallow grooves with bolt protection to the top.

11.  Bob Loblaw  5.7
Start 20, right of Oscar,s Last Stand.  Climb up and left using large solution crystal pockets to first and second bolt.  Climb excellent 5.7 crack to the top.

12.  _______?_________  5.10
This climb climbs through the lower plated flakes with a spruce tree and ledge at its top.  Trend to bolted face above and onto the top.

13.  Ugly Dirty 5.7
Climb climbs arete left of the vegetated gully and up through some how through all that vegetation up there!

14.  Vegetated Gully

Next two climbs start on top of block ledge with single dead birch (center of ledge) and cluster of three dead birches (right of ledge).

15.  Cunningham,s Crusade 5.8  
From the left side of the birch ledge, traverse left into climb, past three bolts, to a right facing flake.  Climb up and trending left to black overlap with right facing corner (has rotten rock to its right).  Climb through this short corner aiming for the higher over hang (bolt below it) and turn overlap at right facing flake to the top.

15a.  Variation:  CC Direct Start  5.6X
From ground climb direct to third bolt on Cunningham,s Crusade.

16.  Three Bubba,s Trilogy  5.11
Starting at center of dead birch ledge climb bolted line up white face to the top.

17.  _______? __________5.8+
Climb leaning tongue slab with crack in its center to upper face with left leaning crack that leads to the top.  (Just right of cluster of three dead birches)

18.  Vegetated Line 5.6

19.  Oscar the Grouch  5.9
Look for a prominent wide 3-5 crack.  With awkward access from the ground follow left to right snaking hand crack to a bolt (crux).  Climb hand crack at 5.7 (very course- tape advised) that leads to a bolt on a slab.  Climb past bolts on slabs to an arete finish.

The next two climbs ascend the open slab area with an overlap/over hang at 1/3rd height.

20.  Charismatic Mime  5.8
1.   Climb past bolts up to left side of horizontal overlap.  Climb past bolts left of bushy ledge straight up to bolted belay. (5.8)
2.   From belay face climb to top past three bolts. (5.6)

21.  Broken Clown 5.6
Climb up slabs and turn horizontal overlap on its right side.  Route find directly to the top.  Somewhat run out and dirty.  180,.   Walk traverse right to top of Bucking Bronco belay.  Rap with two ropes.

22.  Joe and Judy Perez Highway 5.8
Climbs the 70, well bolted face/slab between vegetation.

Walk past vegetated slabs.  Bucking Bronco Arete is defined by the large right facing corner that arches right to a blocky headwall.  The blocky head wall is the second pitch of Raven Groove.

23.  Bucking Bronco   5.8
Look for bolts on slabs that lead to a small arete.  Climb up for about 60, and moving left to the main skyline arete (Bucking Bronco).  Make improbable move left with bolt onto the arête proper.  Follow arete and slab to the top.  Note: bolt on upper slab can be hard to see and is critical to clip especially if slab is wet.

24.  Raven Groove 5.6
1.   Follows corner with shallow groove past a bolt, continue straight up and left to two bolt belay to right of Bucking Bronco headwall.  120,
2.   Climb steep little head wall to the top.  60,

To the right of Raven Groove is a tree filled gully.  To the right of this is a slab area defined by a large left facing corner (Wasabe Groove) that turns to a horizontal headwall to the left.

25.  ________?_______ 5.7
Fifty feet left of Wasabe Groove climb small slab ridge start for 10, to slabs that lead to a crack that splits the headwall above.  Gain and climb low angle slabs to two bolt belay at the top. 180,  Need two ropes to rap.

26.  Wasabe Groove 5.8
Climb prominent left facing corner with bolt on right wall.  Top out on corner (second bolt) and climb long left diagonally groove (with bolts) to bolt belay of previous climb.   180,  Need two ropes to rap.

27.  Raven Ridge 5.6
Climbs the bolted slab to right of Wasabe Groove,s corner.  This climb is bound by a long left facing corner.  Find two bolt belay after about 120,.  Can rap with one 60 meter rope if you drop down into the Wasabe Groove corner area.

28.  Cruising the Great Corner 5.7
Bolted slab on topside of great corner to right of Raven Ridge.  It Shares same belay as Raven Ridge.

Title: Re: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:52:59 pm
Image 3 & 4
Note: Mistake in image 4:  #9 should be #10 Oscar's Last Stand.  #9 should shift left and is Bipolar Brain Flush.
Image 3:
6. Moose Meat (Rancid) 5.10
7. Randy's Super Fine Tripleishes 5.10-

Image 4:
8. Coffee Achievers 5.11
8a French Roast 5.11
9 Bipolar Brian Flush 5.9

Title: Re: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:54:42 pm
Images 5 & 6
Image 5:
8. Coffee Achievers 5.11
9. Bipolar Brain Flush 5.9
9a. Bipolar Brain Fart 5.8 R
10. Oscar's Last Stand 5.10
11. Bob Loblaw 5.7

Image 6:
10. Oscar's Last Stand 5.10
11. Bob Loblaw 5.7


Title: Re: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:55:57 pm
Images 7 & 8
Image 7:
12. ____?____ 5.10
13. Ugly Dirty 5.7
14. Vegetated Gully

Image 8:
13. Ugly Dirty 5.7
14. Vegetated Gully
15. Cunningham's Crusade 5.8
15a. CC Direct 5.6x
16. Three Bubbas Trilogy 5.11
17. ____?____ 5.8


Title: Re: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:56:57 pm
Images 9 & 10
Image 9:
16. Three Bubbas Trilogy 5.11
17. ____?____ 5.8

Image 10:
18. Vegetated Line 5.6
19. Oscar the Grouch 5.9
20. Charismatic Mime 5.8
21. Broken Clown 5.6
22. Joe and Judy Perez Highway 5.8


Title: Re: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:58:04 pm
Images 11 & 12

Image 11:
19. Oscar the Grouch 5.9
20. Charismatic Mime 5.8
21. Broken Clown 5.6
22. Joe and Judy Perez Highway 5.8

Image 12:
26. Wasabe Groove 5.8
27. Raven Ridge 5.6


Title: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 19, 2009, 12:59:06 pm
Image 13:

26. Wasabe Groove 5.8
27. Raven Ridge 5.6
28. Cruising the Great Corner 5.7
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: punxnotdead on May 19, 2009, 03:01:02 pm
Awesome!!!!  Thanks for posting this.  Those routes are really great out there!!!  Excellent work to all of you guys past and present.

Bill Keiler
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: James16 on May 19, 2009, 03:08:26 pm
Looks great out there. I'm really excited to check it out this summer. Thanks for the route info!
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: gags on May 19, 2009, 06:23:30 pm
Much appreciated; this answers many questions.

-gags
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Jeff on June 02, 2009, 05:39:55 pm
Jamie: thanks for sharing the beta- looks like great stuff. Good work to all the explorers. See you out there some where.
          Jeff Lea
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: MAmedic on June 02, 2009, 09:41:16 pm
Wow, great stuff.  Thanks alot guys.  cant wait to check it out
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: meclimber on June 03, 2009, 11:40:40 am
Thanks, great contribution.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Admin Al on June 10, 2009, 11:19:41 pm
got about half the routes in the database today. I'll get to the rest and pics on teh next rainy day.  :P

SUPER thanks to Jamie for posting all this stuff. it's wonderful.  ;)

 
--al
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Admin Al on June 11, 2009, 11:10:01 am
JBrochu

totally up to Jamie, but I'd be very happy to do it.

--al
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Admin Al on June 11, 2009, 05:34:51 pm
got all the routes in this afternoon.  ;D  will work on the pictures next week.

have a great weekend...

--al
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: DGoguen on June 14, 2009, 02:19:15 pm
Have been going to Mt. Oscar a few weekends in a row and offer a bit of information. I know it's a "what did you expect kind of thing" but I got a $75.00 violation in the parking area there on the third weekend for not paying the user fee. Again I know, there are consequences but that's the deal there.

On the brighter side, I think the area should be noted as an example of totally responsible development of a crag. Virtually every route I have done there has been thoughtful and very engaging right to the end. They let you work for the natural gear when you should, and clip the bolt when you are very ready. A great example of leading by example.
Going climbing is a lot more fun than arguing about it.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Admin Al on June 15, 2009, 01:46:45 am
Going climbing is a lot more fun than arguing about it.

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!  :)  ;)  :D  ;D  ::)  :P  :-*

--al
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Flotsam on June 15, 2009, 07:45:57 am
I got a $75.00 violation... for not paying the user fee.

A friend of mine has never paid the forest service user fee (not that I advocate this).  I am sure I can not explain this correctly but from what he told me when it all started the fee was "voluntary" and counted as a "vote" in favor of the fee program.  In the end the tickets were totally unenforceable.

As of a few years ago I thought they did away with the threatening tickets and would leave you a little please pay the fee ticket note on your window.  so the return to the 75 dollar "ticket" is news to me...
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: JBro on June 15, 2009, 09:00:39 am
I used to just throw those tickets away because they were not enforceable in the past. I haven't got one in several years though, and I'm not sure of the legal status of these things now.

Edit: regarding what Flotsam mentioned about the voluntary nature of the program....

The Forest Service put the plan in place on a "voluntary" trial basis. They tried to say anybody that paid was voting in favor of the program, yet they also tried to enforce payment from people. The Courts ruled that if payment was a "yes vote" then people had a right to vote no by refusing to pay. The Forest Service kept putting these fake tickets on people's cars anyway, but stopped trying to enforce payment via the courts. Therefore I always just threw them away. I'm not sure if the program has evolved from there and maybe has teeth now...?

Before someone comments about how I should just pay, my response is that I already pay. As soon as the Forest Service starts actually making money on their timber contracts instead of subsidizing the timber companies -- I'll start paying for parking. (Assuming they still have a budget deficit.)
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: frik on June 15, 2009, 09:37:11 am
DG: Did you get an actual ticket that requires you to pay? Or is it maybe a "you need to pay this... blah blah blah" kind of fake ticket? Also - even if they make money on their timber sales, i'm still not gonna pay. 
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: JBro on June 15, 2009, 09:48:57 am
Also - even if they make money on their timber sales, i'm still not gonna pay. 

FREEEEEEDAAAHMMM......!



(http://www.solarnavigator.net/films_movies_actors/film_images/mel_gibson_braveheart.jpg)
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: DGoguen on June 15, 2009, 01:03:57 pm
DG: Did you get an actual ticket that requires you to pay? Or is it maybe a "you need to pay this... blah blah blah" kind of fake ticket? . 

It's the real deal. United States District Court Violation. Complete with registration and Vin number. Also an option for a court date if you really wanted to get upset and scream at the wall. Not sure what you would say. $ 50.00 forfeiture amount and a $ 25.00 processing fee. I would especially like to thank officer Herb for using his fat greasy hand to affix the violation with a generous pad of adhesive. Nice touch.

For the first few years I blew off the voluntary bit, then got a sticker for a few years, and recently had been getting a national pass that you could use when out west. This is the first year in many that I haven't been covered. I'm not advocating anarchy or anything but they should at least let you put the money toward a pass.

Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Flotsam on June 15, 2009, 01:34:42 pm
Good old internet... This site is way out of date but seemed to be the only thing that came up for the new hamster fee http://www.nepfa.org/

Apparently the fee legislation was renewed in 2005 and beefed up a little from what I understand.  http://www.fs.fed.us/passespermits/fee-legislation-summary.shtml

In their own wording is they need six "amenities" to qualify for the standard fee.  Which is the lowest tier.  I'm pretty sure there is only parking, signage and they will claim "security".  That's 3 of six at best in my book...
http://www.fs.fed.us/passespermits/about-rec-fees.shtml

Quote
Standard Amenity Fees

Examples: Picnic areas, developed trailheads, destination visitor centers, high impact recreation areas

Explanation: Typically, standard amenity fees are day use fees, often covered by a day or annual pass. Each site or area must contain six "amenities," which are picnic tables, trash, toilet, parking, interpretive signing and security.

Even better they want to increase the fees for next year.  5 bucks a day for a dirt parking lot.  Can they be serious? http://www.fs.fed.us/r9/forests/white_mountain/passes/proposed_fee_changes.php
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Dave on June 15, 2009, 01:53:31 pm
Hey Dave, I have never heard of anyone getting a ticket before. I am always getting requests to pay on my car at Rumney but never a ticket and I don't know of anyone who has ever got anything other than a request. I will never pay as the bastards take more than enough of my pay allready! If I ever get one I will be taking the time to go to court to fight it. I hope you will do that also if you can take the time just to make a point. Dave R.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: DGoguen on June 15, 2009, 05:26:37 pm
If I ever get one I will be taking the time to go to court to fight it. I hope you will do that also if you can take the time just to make a point.
I do have the time but I'm not sure what my defense would be. I'd be standing there like Joe Pesci in "My Cousin Vinny". Yo, may I approach the bench.
I could argue my federal taxes should provide access and services to land that is publicly owned and officer Herb could have more time to clean the toilets at the Kanc swimming hole and not tax me further. I could say I didn't see the 4' x 8' red, white and blue pay fee area sign that I parked next to.
I could blow it off and wait to get pulled over some night coming home from the Moat and have a surprise arrest warrant from the "Central Violations Bureau" Real place believe it or not. 1-800-827-2982 to listen to a robot give you your options.
If it doesn't stop raining soon I could become right wing conservative.

Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Admin Al on June 15, 2009, 09:00:33 pm
If it doesn't stop raining soon I could become right wing conservative.

yo man...not a LWC, anything but that...  ::)

-al
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 18, 2010, 11:28:28 pm
Jon Sykes and I did a 830' Girdle Traverse first ascent across the entire cliff band at Mount Oscar in Zealand Notch (5-18-10). 5 1/2 pitches at 5.8R, A0. I had to do a four foot tension traverse to link one section. Started at the far lower left of the cliff and finished on the far upper right in the true British style of girdle traversing. This has been one of Jon and mine favorite type of adventures on other cliff as well. Great time!
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 18, 2010, 11:30:28 pm
830' Girdle Traverse first ascent across the entire cliff band at Mount Oscar in Zealand Notch. 5 1/2 pitches at 5.8R, A0.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 18, 2010, 11:31:37 pm
830' Girdle Traverse first ascent across the entire cliff band at Mount Oscar in Zealand Notch. 5 1/2 pitches at 5.8R, A0.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: meclimber on May 19, 2010, 06:21:11 am
Always in good style jamie!
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: tradchick on May 19, 2010, 07:17:18 am
Way to go!  That's a nice cliff with some great routes.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Admin Al on May 19, 2010, 09:09:12 am
that's great Jamie. congrats to you & Jon. I'll bet it was a wonderful adventure. I love to do girdle traverses. the ones on Whitehorse are fantastic. did you give it a name?
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: strandman on May 19, 2010, 09:19:03 am
Nice, I'm gonna tell Paul Ross though  :D "The Girdler"
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Jeff on May 19, 2010, 12:58:00 pm
Does going for the girdle mean you consider the crag climbed out? Or just that you don't like to keep starting over from the bottom with muddy shoes? ;)
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on May 26, 2010, 10:02:06 pm
Copied from my post in General climbing:

"There has been some other activity since these listings.  In particular: a blunt arete immediately to the right of Oscar the Grouch called Oscar the Slouch- same start (grade 5.10+, Syke, Lee), a 830' girdle traverse called Oscars Wilde's Adventure (grade 5.8R, A0, 5+ pitches {140' (5.8, 140' (5.7), 170' (5.8, A0), 170' (5.7), 180' (5.8r) + 30' simo climb. Cunningham, Sykes alternating leads}, and a project up and right of Perez Highway (whose? so stay away until the red flag is gone- thanks)."
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: bayard russell on June 01, 2010, 07:25:24 am
You guys are badass.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: BrianRI on July 25, 2010, 12:21:54 pm
I climbed over there last week and Jon Sykes and Mike Lee were there and nice enough to point out the climbs.  Thanks guys and thanks for putting up the great routes.  Yet another place to thin the crowds out at the more crowded crags like Cannon.

Brian
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: perswig on August 02, 2010, 09:38:27 am
Troy and I got out here for the first time yesterday (brilliant idea, Troy!) and had a great time.  Three other parties, but no waiting; sunny but cool, few bugs, little seepage - not sure it could have been better.
I'll add my accolades to those developing the routes.  We did five, in 6 pitches, and thought all were high-quality and true-to-stout for their ratings.  With the exception of the right-hand unnamed .9, which eases a bit up top, all routes made you pay attention from the high-ball starts right to the end.
Those moves from face to crack on the .9 are pretty wild (especially if you're short), and the entire Randy's Superwhateveritwas was excellent, althought that's the route we split in two, and the gear I got off the first (low) belay was a crappy C3 and two so-so tapered brassies.  Keeps you on your toes.

I've got some pics to post, especially of the team doing Oscar (?).  We heard Tradchick singing her way up one of the .9s (whoohoo, you two) and met Dawn and Scott (thanks for helping John and Jamie!).

Go play; it's fun.
Dale
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: strandman on August 02, 2010, 09:47:32 am
How's the animal dump doing these days ?  :o
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: perswig on August 02, 2010, 09:53:50 am
We didn't smell a thing...
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on August 02, 2010, 08:16:44 pm
Last month there was a freshy Half eaten moose at Fish and Game's favorite dumping ground less than 100' from a running stream.  Oscar tradition is enduring the moose smell on the otherwise fine bike or hike in.  Glad every one is enjoying the place.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: M_Sprague on August 03, 2010, 12:27:44 am
At least you don't have to pack in as much food
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: perswig on August 03, 2010, 07:16:34 am
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff69/perswig/2nd%20album/026.jpg)
Pulling crux on Oscar the Grouch (?)

(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff69/perswig/2nd%20album/031.jpg)
Beautiful climbing up high

(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff69/perswig/2nd%20album/033.jpg)
Rotated for awesomeness  ;D

(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff69/perswig/2nd%20album/035.jpg)
Troy coming up Randy's Super Fine

(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff69/perswig/2nd%20album/037.jpg)
Great flake laybacking
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: tradchick on August 03, 2010, 08:02:48 am

I'll add my accolades to those developing the routes.  We did five, in 6 pitches, and thought all were high-quality and true-to-stout for their ratings.  With the exception of the right-hand unnamed .9, which eases a bit up top, all routes made you pay attention from the high-ball starts right to the end.

We heard Tradchick singing her way up one of the .9s (whoohoo, you two)

I agree, almost every route there is stellar!  Nice job leading all those routes Dale and good to see Troy and you.  Very kind of you, it was more like whining my way up.  ;)
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: dpen on August 04, 2010, 10:30:51 pm
Nice pics Dale!

You picked a great day.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on October 12, 2010, 10:54:40 pm
Someone put in a nice 5.7 second pitch to Perez Highway, 5.8. From P.H. belay, diagonal right on vegetation to the base of a six bolted rib (plus a 1" and 2" cam).  Climb 130' trending left to the two-bolt anchor at the top of Broken Clown (5.6).  this pitch lies between Broken Clown and the upper portion of Bucking Bronco Arete.  This pitch has had a piece of red flagging tape on it since May. I spotted this route while Sykes and I put up girdle traverse of Oscar (see bottom of page two/top of page three)  It looked too fun not to climb it, so I did. The route climbed perfectly, with judicious scrubbing, and a dug out gear placement within the last 20'.  My conclusion is that the FA party rappelled down Charismatic Mime and forgot to remove their project marker.  So, who done it?  I trundled some precarious large rocks that were in the way of the last ten feet. 

Alternatively, you can climb in one 60m pitch, linking Perez Highway and the upper half of Broken Clown (two bolts plus trad gear).

Two rappels with a single rope: diagonal left to the first pitch anchor of Charismatic Mime, 5.8, and then to the ground.  You can not reach the belay on Perez Highway with a single rope.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on October 13, 2010, 10:56:33 am
P.S.
From this 5.7 pitch (pitch 2 of Perez Highway) it would be possible to traverse right and finish on the top end of Bucking Bronco Arete for one rope stretching romp.

Al: since you climb with the Perez could you ask them about this climb: the date it was done and if they had given it a name?  Perez Highway is a name Jon and  I conjured up I believe.  If they want a different name in the book, we would like to have it right.  In my opinion, I like Perez Highway, as it honors their adventurous spirit and Contributions to White Mountain climbing.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Jeff on October 13, 2010, 12:30:55 pm
Jamie- I was at Mt. Oscar the day that Joe and Judy put in the 2nd pitch bolts on their climb ( Aug. 20, 2009); Joe cleared a number of blocks off while he was drilling on rappel. I led the 2nd pitch with Anne Parmenter on 5/30/10, noting the red tape on the first bolt, but knowing that Joe had already led it after putting in the bolts; I moved some dangerous blocks out of the way of my ropes but couldn't trundle because my belayer (Anne) was directly in the line of fire. With the extra trundling you've done, I imagine the route is much more sanitized (read safer) and that's a good thing! Some of those blocks were big enough to make an impression on you and ruin your day :P.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on October 13, 2010, 01:27:02 pm
Why the red tape? To keep people off until those blocks could be dropped?  Those blocks were definite wrecking balls!  All gone. Safe passage and good climbing.  Thanks for the background history- now to hear from Judy and Joe.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: epoch on October 13, 2010, 02:36:03 pm
Red Tape = Bureaucratic method of claiming the FA as the developer of the route. You put the effort into cleaning and bolting the route (read your time and $$) so therefore a red tag is there to dissuade others from claiming the FA. Otherwise, red tape could mean that the route is not completely outfitted or cleaned to the FA's liking yet.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: strandman on October 13, 2010, 09:30:51 pm
Just to be an asshole- No gear in those flakes ? :o

Go ahead, fire away
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on October 14, 2010, 12:12:27 am
John: As the Rock Man said in the Land of Point, "you see what you want to see, and hear what you want to hear. Dig?"
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on October 14, 2010, 12:24:02 am
Dig it, man:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2a-_dvxtN0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2a-_dvxtN0)
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: perswig on October 14, 2010, 07:01:42 am
Just to be an asshole- No gear in those flakes ?

Hey, if you're talking the pics of Randy's SuperFine, I got gear in those flakes!  But am I gonna clip the bolts there as well?  You betcha!  Nothing about the routes John and Jamie put up there feels overbolted, but that's a whole nother arguement you can have with someone else. 

And yes, I'm a light-weight scairdycat at this climbing thing.  Sue me ;).
Dale
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Admin Al on October 15, 2010, 06:54:18 pm
Al: since you climb with the Perez could you ask them about this climb: the date it was done and if they had given it a name?  Perez Highway is a name Jon and  I conjured up I believe.  If they want a different name in the book, we would like to have it right.  In my opinion, I like Perez Highway, as it honors their adventurous spirit and Contributions to White Mountain climbing.

Jamie - I asked them & here is what they said:

Tell Jamie that we really appreciate the thought about our adventurous spirits, but we would like to leave the name as "Highway." Some people already know it by this name. This is also the name on neclimbs.com.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: strandman on October 15, 2010, 08:32:14 pm
Hey, if you're talking the pics of Randy's SuperFine, I got gear in those flakes!  But am I gonna clip the bolts there as well?  You betcha!  Nothing about the routes John and Jamie put up there feels overbolted, but that's a whole nother arguement you can have with someone else. 

And yes, I'm a light-weight scairdycat at this climbing thing.  Sue me ;).
Dale
[/quoteOh I'm just shittin' ya  ;) Looks like great climbing
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: smartpig on October 15, 2010, 09:14:16 pm
"Highway" it is!  Nice two pitch route.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: bubbalee on November 25, 2010, 12:41:07 pm
jamie- i want to plant the suggestion in your head that we should move the top two bolt belay on blown clown about 15 feet left of where they are now to facilitate  a better belay stance out of the loose dirt and rock area and a safer rope pull.
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: pdonahue on July 11, 2012, 12:56:42 am
hey Jamie and others
So being that i live just on the other side of the mountain I've been climbing these routes regularly and have explored the upper slab area where Bretton Woods guides. I was wondering if i could get some more detail on these upper routes? grades and names.

thanks
p. Donahue
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: perswig on July 11, 2012, 12:23:54 pm
Pdonahue, there are some pics and route descriptions from Jamie Cunningham at the tail-end of a droning thread in Events and Announcements called "What do you think?" or something similar about Bretton Woods.  I think this may be what you want?

http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php/topic,6147.0.html

Dale
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: pdonahue on July 22, 2012, 06:22:07 pm
bretton woods has a "guide book" per-say to look at or buy about the upper slabs all routes are from 5.5-5.7
Title: Re: Mt. Oscar: A Rough Guide to Mt. Oscar
Post by: Chinos on October 29, 2012, 07:59:41 pm
the climbing is great, now i know what im getting on 8)