NEClimbs.com forum

General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: apbt1976 on May 24, 2012, 09:33:51 PM

Title: Recompense Chimney
Post by: apbt1976 on May 24, 2012, 09:33:51 PM
What is the largest piece or pieces of gear needed for this route?

Thanks again!

Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: tradmanclimbz on May 24, 2012, 09:38:25 PM
If you do the beast Flake #3 is helpfull in several places. Chimny without beastflake Gold#2
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: apbt1976 on May 24, 2012, 10:11:00 PM
If you do the beast Flake #3 is helpfull in several places. Chimny without beastflake Gold#2

What way would you suggest?

So a rack with two sets of cams 00-3.5 and nuts 1-10 should more than do the trick?

Thanks just wanna make sure we got everything we need.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: tradmanclimbz on May 25, 2012, 06:38:51 AM
Single set of cams to 3" but 2 Green camalots and 2 yellow aliens.  doubble set of stoppers from #3 to #8  single set of stoppers #9 to #13 is my prefered cathedral rack.  beast flake is more exciteing by far. the move onto it is thrilling and the move back into the chimny is interesting.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: meclimber on May 25, 2012, 08:03:57 AM
#2 for the chimney

If you want to do the route, do the route.  But...the better (more spectacular imop) is the beast flake.  I remember the first time doing the flake, not so much with the chimney.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: DGoguen on May 25, 2012, 08:19:02 AM
#2 for the chimney

If you want to do the route, do the route.  But...the better (more spectacular imop) is the beast flake.  I remember the first time doing the flake, not so much with the chimney.

+1 for the flake.
You end up doing the crux in the chimney anyway after you exit the flake and get back into the regular route.
Most people link the flake and upper chimney together, but your first time it may be worth belaying on top of the flake. Just don't stare at the flake too long as you sit there, you will start to imagine it cleaving off in a spectacular if not dramatic demise.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: sneoh on May 25, 2012, 08:40:14 AM
You are going to finish the route to the top and walk off, right?
If so, wear a helmet cam on P3 (the inside corner) and record your ascent.
Strand might want a copy of that (it is rumored that he has never climbed P3)!


Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: strandman on May 25, 2012, 03:18:46 PM
If you do the beast Flake #3 is helpfull in several places. Chimny without beastflake Gold#2

What way would you suggest?

So a rack with two sets of cams 00-3.5 and nuts 1-10 should more than do the trick?

Thanks just wanna make sure we got everything we need.

Beast Flake for sure... SO much much better.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: tradchick on May 25, 2012, 05:48:16 PM
I'm with everyone else.  Do the flake, it's spectacular!  But like someone else said, if you're belaying from the top of the flake, try not to notice that it looks like it's coming off any minute.

After the last pitch of Recompense, you can traverse out right and get on the last pitch of the Prow to finish.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: DLottmann on May 25, 2012, 07:03:54 PM
After the last pitch of Recompense, you can traverse out right and get on the last pitch of the Prow to finish.

Or go straight up Lookout Crack, 5.9, directly above the last pitch of Recompense, and a nice direct finish to the line...
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: tradmanclimbz on May 25, 2012, 08:39:53 PM
that thing is gross. Hurts your fingers. the Prow finish is 100 times more fun ;)
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: Admin Al on May 25, 2012, 10:38:08 PM
last pitch of The Prow is highly recommended!
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: DLottmann on May 26, 2012, 07:21:24 AM
that thing is gross. Hurts your fingers. the Prow finish is 100 times more fun ;)

A agree, except you gotta add a slightly awkward mini-pitch to get set-up for it. Commando is fun too IMO, but the last pitch of the Prow is the only 3 star finish...
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: strandman on May 26, 2012, 09:40:08 AM
Isn't John Turners original finish to the last pitch now Commando Run ????
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: DLottmann on May 26, 2012, 09:24:55 PM
Dunno, but cleaner than it looks...



Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: tradmanclimbz on May 27, 2012, 07:42:29 PM
I usually have doubbles on that climb so i go right from the top of the recompense corner to the top of the prow In one easy shot. nothing awkward that i recall?
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: apbt1976 on May 27, 2012, 09:08:02 PM
All great info for another time so thank you all much!

It ended up pissing light rain on and off all day Thursday. We ended up just doing FunHouse. Go to the top of that and found bird closure signs all over the place could not decide what was and was not Upper Refuse open or closed and with the rain just decided to walk off to the left as apposed to fuck with bird closures or mistakenly wonder onto a wet 5.9 climb as apposed to 5.5 - 5.7?

Kinda a bummer but some climbing is better than no climbing.

Cant wait to get on the flake though sounds bad ass!! Actually cant wait for it to stop freaking raining so dam much. Anyone not work on Monday and Tuesday as i could use a regular partner for those days.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: DLottmann on May 28, 2012, 12:07:13 AM
ďAll over the placeĒ? Iíve only seen two up there.. one at Retaliation, and left of it 80 or so feet. To the right youíd find Upper Refuse, which is not closed, and fun in the rain. You should grab the new guidebook, itíll really help with the route finding!
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: Joe_Re on June 02, 2012, 10:40:29 PM
The worst part of the Beast Flake was belaying from the flake on top of the flake and watching it flex!!!  The move into the chimney wasn't bad, though getting up that six or eight feet was a slog as was the first fifteenish feet of the final pitch.  That belay along with Jolt at Rumney; I'd rather hit myself in the dick with a hammer than climb em again..

Go!

Joe.
Title: Re: Recompense Chimney
Post by: sneoh on June 02, 2012, 11:44:49 PM
Oh, Jolt is not all that bad now.  Those flakes will hold!  Unlike some of the "dinner plates" I pulled on down at The Red.  Cracked dinner plates I should add. 
Jolt was much scarier when it was a mixed route years ago!