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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: ELM on October 24, 2013, 08:58:02 PM

Title: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on October 24, 2013, 08:58:02 PM
    This climb is right between "Easy as Pudding Pie" and "Yellowjacket".

-To the right of yellowjacket there is a small diameter 2' high tree stump 2-3' to the right of that:
Climb up to a left down facing seam for a nut placement.
-Head straight up to the first bolt; past two more bolts straight up. The crux is at the third bolt.
-Pad up the remaining 15' to a two bolt ring anchor.
 
The climb is roughtly the same height as yellowjacket; 90'. FFA: David Giampietro and Ed Matt 10-24-13.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: David_G48 on October 25, 2013, 05:29:01 AM
A little background on the name; we started climbing on a beautiful Autumn day and as we started climbing the route for the FA small tear drops of cold rain started down from the now overcast dark skies above. Now we have a 5.4 Easy as Instant Pudding, 5.6 Autumn Tears, 5.7 Yellowjacket, 5.10 Put My Foot Where and 5.10B Lost & Found all within the first 100' of the Geriatric wall. Great area to take small groups of various skill levels for a bunch of fun climbs. For that matter continue down the wall for more great routes most which have been put up in the last few recent years and of course by the over 60 crowd  ;).
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: Admin Al on October 25, 2013, 09:57:15 AM
Very neat David... any pictures?
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on October 25, 2013, 01:09:41 PM
Al..I have pics..I cannot seem to post them here using your picture icon. I will email them too you. The sun was setting on us so they get dark.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: chambo on October 30, 2013, 02:13:53 PM
Thanks for putting in this new, fun, little line.  My wife and I went out and climbed it on Sunday morning.  We attempted to clean it up a bit more, but I would suggest that someone bring a wire brush out and give it another good scrub. 
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: David_G48 on October 30, 2013, 06:31:54 PM
It was late and getting dark last week so we went out today and gave it some cleaning with a wire brush. Glad that you liked it, you will like it even more now that we have cleaned it up a bit.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on October 30, 2013, 08:32:57 PM
Very happy you got on it!
We did more than just wire brush it. It's very clean right now. Still has the same feel but much more positive. In the pic: If you look off above the climbers left shoulder you can see the clean streak of rock trending left and up.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: Admin Al on October 30, 2013, 09:18:45 PM
ThnX to both you and David for putting up another fun climb in the Geriatrics area. It's great to have this many fun climbs there.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: Pete Jackson on October 31, 2013, 12:49:53 PM
Went out to try this one on Sunday, but it was one of the busiest spots on the cliff! Looks really nice, though. Ended up climbing over by Gaggle and Anniversary instead. By the time we headed back to Autumn Tears, it had started raining.

Looks like it was karma: now when we head up to climb it, it'll be shiny clean. Thanks!
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.6 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: David_G48 on November 06, 2013, 05:10:48 PM
Today we put up a 2nd pitch for Autumn Tears, 5.9. It begins just right of the anchors at the top of the first pitch using the anchor bolt on the right as the 1st clip. Climb past 2 more bolts then some gear placement is needed. It ends at the rope anchor around the Juniper Tree.
First recorded free ascent George Hurley, David Giampietro, & Ed Matt Nov 6,2013.
The entire climb can be done in one pitch or broken up into 2 pitches with the 1st pitch going at 5.6 and the 2nd at 5.9. Bring 12 draws, a set of nuts, a 0 Metolius cam and a black tri-cam for the entire climb. Rap on one 60 meter rope. If you don't have a black tri-cam bring a #2 Camalot (I think) for a placement at the top.
It runs pretty straight from the bottom of the 1st pitch to the top of the second. Let us know how you enjoy it.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on November 13, 2013, 07:18:44 PM
Some of you may note I changed the thread title to reflect that the climb is now a 5.9. That is to reflect the harder second pitch. Do not let the 5.9 scare you away; the first pitch to the ring anchors is a very nice 5.6 and a great climb in and of itself. The 5.9 portion is just the cherry on top...a hard fought....much flailing,fussing and resting.. cherry (for me).
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: Admin Al on November 13, 2013, 08:44:32 PM
nice... I'm hoping to get over there before winter totally settles in. unfortunately at this rate it may have actually settled!
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: Admin Al on November 14, 2013, 04:35:02 PM
I went out Thursday afternoon with Brad White and climbed it. I thought that the first pitch was a very nice 5.6. I did feel that there should be a last bolt between what is now currently the last bolt and the anchor. If you skip clipping the anchor, which requires you to step up on a small ledge, you are looking at a close-to 40' fall! I found pitch 2 to be significantly harder and all of 5.9. I had to hang a bit to figure it out. Brad found a variant where you stemmed out to the right into this wide crack which allowed you to make the move up and get situated on the face where you can clip the second bolt. It is reasonably clean and a nice addition to the area.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: David_G48 on November 14, 2013, 04:53:54 PM
Al
There is a place for a nut placement just below the 1st anchor before you step up to clip in. Then you can step down and remove the nut if you want. Thanks for getting on the route and providing some feedback esp. on the grading.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on November 14, 2013, 10:15:54 PM
...I think you are speaking about after the third bolt to the anchor. We did debate adding a bolt there. But, it's relatively easy climbing and there is pro before you step up to clip the anchors. Is down and to the left.
    Brad found maybe the "easier" way but it's not much easier. Following just to the right of the bolt line works just fine. I did say it was burly!
   
   
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: Jeff on November 17, 2013, 01:31:46 PM
Nice job on this route guys; Chris Graham and I (his lead on P2!) repeated this yesterday and found it good (and burly indeed :P)! Jeff Lea
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: old_school on November 17, 2013, 02:54:52 PM
Nice job on this route guys; Chris Graham and I (his lead on P2!) repeated this yesterday and found it good (and burly indeed :P)! Jeff Lea

I would say 5.9+ off the deck. I stayed pretty true to the line that David suggested and did not stem out right. Thought it was a burly start...lots of fun and a nice addition to that side of the cliff. Takes great small gear after the last bolt too!  ;)
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on November 18, 2013, 07:45:58 AM
Really happy you guys enjoyed it!  ;D
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: old_school on November 19, 2013, 09:19:05 AM
Really happy you guys enjoyed it!  ;D

Fun route! kept my attention right to the anchor!  ;)
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: strandman on November 19, 2013, 12:58:25 PM
Il love it.. a NH sport route that requires gear !!  Good job
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on November 19, 2013, 05:37:39 PM
Il love it.. a NH sport route that requires gear !!  Good job

If there was gear we did not add a bolt: they way it should be!

 ;)....I hate to admit it but this is my first route I had a hand in establishing. I am very happy it has gotten the positive response it has.
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: strandman on November 19, 2013, 09:08:34 PM
Just shittin' you Ed
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: Jeff on August 13, 2014, 10:47:51 AM
I've found that a number of parties have been surprised to find that the "bolted section" of Humphreys ledge (AKA to many of us as the "Geriatric Wall")  requires a "modern rack" in many cases-- there are a few climbs which only require draws, but most of the routes will be scary or dangerous, depending on the leader's abilities/experience if he/she doesn't carry gear. An advantage these days is that most of the route descriptions feature a "recommended gear list". Don't carry anything but sport draws at your peril! 8)
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: strandman on August 13, 2014, 10:55:56 AM
As it should be  "sport/trad"
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: ELM on August 16, 2014, 07:00:26 AM
I've found that a number of parties have been surprised to find that the "bolted section" of Humphreys ledge (AKA to many of us as the "Geriatric Wall")  requires a "modern rack" in many cases-- there are a few climbs which only require draws, but most of the routes will be scary or dangerous, depending on the leader's abilities/experience if he/she doesn't carry gear. An advantage these days is that most of the route descriptions feature a "recommended gear list". Don't carry anything but sport draws at your peril! 8)
    I can understand how you might think that. I know I made it very clear that this route needed trad gear....not much but it is needed. As you mentioned; most of the routes there have very good gear listing right here in the "routes" section. So with a small amount of research no one should be caught off guard.
    I have really never thought of the Geriatric wall as a strictly sport climbing area anyway: no ones bolting any cracks out there.
   
Title: Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
Post by: danf on October 13, 2014, 09:33:17 PM
Got on this yesterday, thinking it was Yellowjacket.  All I had was the Handren guide, so I was looking at the next right over from Easy as Instant Pudding Pie and didn't remember this description being posted.  I was wondering why there were bolts above the ring anchors though.... ::)  I did snug up one of the anchor bolts (the one on the left, I think) and the first bolt above the anchor received the same attention from the wrench as well. 

Definitely a nice route (at least the first pitch).  It didn't take me too long to get the bottom moves figured out, but my foot-shorter-than-me wife took an extra couple of seconds when she followed. :D  FWIW, one of my kids did this on TR with a variation on the start by starting on the bottom slabby section of Pudding Pie and angling over from there.  Seemed to work for him fairly well.