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General => Bouldering => Topic started by: eyebolter on February 18, 2013, 05:37:02 PM

Title: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on February 18, 2013, 05:37:02 PM
Today, warming up (lol) on "Ice Planet Hoth," V0.  The snow topout was interesting.  Cold day but cobalt blue sky.

We did a new highball V4, "The Wookie" to the right out the overhang at the skyline that was finally safe with the deep snow landing.   


Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Admin Al on February 18, 2013, 11:08:08 PM
and barefoot no less.... SHEESH!
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: strandman on February 19, 2013, 09:14:13 AM
Don't want to get any shoes wet
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on February 25, 2013, 11:00:22 PM
Looks great, Ward.  Wookie looks great and scary at the same time! :)
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on February 26, 2013, 08:18:47 AM
Looks great, Ward.  Wookie looks great and scary at the same time! :)


There are eyebolts over the top of Wookie so you can TR it first (I did!).  Kind of a hard move going to the lip at the top where you really don't want to fall.  Got out Monday and Friday last week.  Let me know if you want a tour.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on March 06, 2013, 06:55:15 PM
Yesterday afternoon..sunny and close to 40.....dogs and babies don't make the best spotters. 

Here's to hoping the next storm goes out to sea.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on March 06, 2013, 07:44:38 PM
Bad storm; was hoping to be roped climbing at Farley on Mar 16.
Too unrealistic?
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on March 07, 2013, 07:48:33 AM
Bad storm; was hoping to be roped climbing at Farley on Mar 16.
Too unrealistic?

Parking lot is still snowed in.  We've shoveled out a couple of spaces in the neighborhood; if that is full you can park in the overflow across the bridge.


Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 04, 2013, 05:38:21 PM
Sweet day today.  Wayne on Rebel Base, V3, and Ella does the ladder to check out the beta on Monkey King, V9, in the Sun Cave.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JChepes on April 04, 2013, 09:29:46 PM
Bouldering on Cape Ann is great right now.  Cool ocean breezes, wonderful friction and no bugs.

Ward I have a question for you.  Your daughter's name, Ella, is very unique.  I'm half greek and ella means to come in the native tongue.  Was this known before you picked the name?   
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 05, 2013, 11:38:01 AM
Bouldering on Cape Ann is great right now.  Cool ocean breezes, wonderful friction and no bugs.

Ward I have a question for you.  Your daughter's name, Ella, is very unique.  I'm half greek and ella means to come in the native tongue.  Was this known before you picked the name?

No it was not known to me!   Ella supposedly means "light."  It was Mrs. Eyebolter's choice.   Some things you are better off not fighting.

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on April 05, 2013, 12:11:56 PM
The Mrs is always right  regardless of meaning.  For example -
http://babynamesworld.parentsconnect.com/meaning_of_Ella.html
http://www.thinkbabynames.com/meaning/0/Ella
http://www.babynamespedia.com/meaning/Ella

Our's is Emily (not my choice) but she also answers to Emi.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: bennybrew on April 07, 2013, 04:03:08 PM
Yesterday afternoon..sunny and close to 40.....dogs and babies don't make the best spotters. 

Here's to hoping the next storm goes out to sea.

looks like the dog, at least, would add some padding.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 16, 2013, 02:39:03 PM
Killer fin of rock, and actually found a new cave, whoda thunk it?
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on April 16, 2013, 08:14:23 PM
I dunno Ward.  That flake looks like it might break off!
Sweet looking move coming out of the cave.  V3/V4-ish at that point?
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 17, 2013, 07:59:41 PM
Actually too warm today to send the latest project.  This is the consolation prize, Switchblade, V5
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Admin Al on April 18, 2013, 09:05:21 AM
pretty soon it's going to be too warm for you to climb at all Ward. you'll be lucky to manage a V1... [LOL]
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: M_Sprague on April 18, 2013, 09:09:10 AM
That stuff looks great, Ward.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on April 18, 2013, 03:37:33 PM
Switchblade looks nice.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 18, 2013, 04:52:07 PM
That stuff looks great, Ward.

Put up some of my most classic problems ever this winter and spring.  Still stuff to be found if you don't mind hiking.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 21, 2013, 07:34:37 PM
Here is Ice Planet Hoth (V0+) and Monkey King (V9) today.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 21, 2013, 07:42:23 PM
Another view of Monkey King and Ella being the crag Queen.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 21, 2013, 07:45:55 PM
Switchblade, V5

Just a word for you guys up north:  The black flies are out.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Admin Al on April 21, 2013, 08:58:47 PM
Just a word for you guys up north:  The black flies are out.

those are NOT words I want to hear...
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 25, 2013, 08:29:10 AM
Just a word for you guys up north:  The black flies are out.

those are NOT words I want to hear...

Got my first black fly bite of the season yesterday, 4/25, at Farley.

Enjoy the bug report's zero while you can.....
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Admin Al on April 28, 2013, 04:22:57 PM
Got my first black fly bite of the season yesterday, 4/25, at Farley.
Enjoy the bug report's zero while you can.....

they're out there, not biting as of today. with this really warm temps that's going to change tho. [sigh]
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JBro on April 28, 2013, 06:25:19 PM
That stuff looks great, Ward.

Put up some of my most classic problems ever this winter and spring.  Still stuff to be found if you don't mind hiking.

Have you ever looked at the boulders off the Smarts Brook Trail in Waterville Valley? About 3 or 4 miles in from route 49 there is a large boulder field with some pretty tall stuff too. The ground around them seems kind of wet/boggy though so that may be an additional problem besides the pure distance from the road.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 28, 2013, 07:08:13 PM
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out. 

Closest thing to there I did is a three star sit down highball crack (V3 maybe) at Potash Knob off the Kanc.  A number of classic highballs to be done for those so inclined.  The boulders are WAY better than the crag, which is (with apologies to Mr. Sykes) Shyte...

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on May 07, 2013, 03:45:41 PM
Ward, by your estimate, how much longer will the flies be a real nuisance in Western Mass?
Mosquitoes bother me less.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on May 07, 2013, 05:08:37 PM
Ward, by your estimate, how much longer will the flies be a real nuisance in Western Mass?
Mosquitoes bother me less.

You are like Mrs. Eyebolter.  Mosquitoes kill me, black flies not so much.

That said, much fewer than a normal year.  I have been bitten maybe 5 or 6 times this season and I'm outside every day.  They are pretty much not a factor for me this year.  Your mileage may vary.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on May 13, 2013, 08:52:43 AM
Turned out pretty good yesterday despite all the rain, hit the new cave and then sport climbing.  Here is Matt on the new cave rave, V6
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on May 13, 2013, 08:56:42 AM
The other Matt from NH sticks the dyno on Crimpanzee (12c/d) and does Primate Fiasco (12a) at Farley Crag Z
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on May 13, 2013, 10:03:32 AM
How's the bug situation after days' of rain. Ward?
Do you happen to have a photo showing more of Primate Fiasco?  The start looks nice!
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on May 13, 2013, 11:14:25 AM
Mosquitoes are out, but not that many.  Black flies are of medium intensity. 

Both routes have the same finish; here is another shot.  You would like the 12a route. 
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on September 25, 2013, 05:52:18 PM
Back to bouldering... best weather week of the year is here, sent a new 40 foot V6 overhanging route yesterday (barely).  Hope everyone is getting out.  People who think that the summer is the best climbing weather are blowing it big time.......

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: M_Sprague on September 25, 2013, 07:22:36 PM
Getting out but not bouldering yet. I have a few more routes I want to finish first and maybe a couple of weeks of just climbing, no scrubbing (like that is going to happen) and then I would like to come check out your bouldering. I really want to see if I can get some of my power back this winter.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on September 25, 2013, 07:24:20 PM
People who think that the summer is the best climbing weather are blowing it big time.......
Who can seriously/possibly be thinking this for New England?  Come on ...
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on September 26, 2013, 11:00:05 AM
People who think that the summer is the best climbing weather are blowing it big time.......
Who can seriously/possibly be thinking this for New England?  Come on ...


My regular wednesday partner refuses to go if the temperature at the parking lot is 40 or lower.  She climbs indoors through all the best weather.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on September 26, 2013, 02:44:30 PM
LOL.  When you said summer, I envisioned 80+F temps with dewpoint above 60F. 
I am with her; 40F and sunny is my lower limit.  My skin starts to peel off like fish scales below that.  Woe be me.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eric8 on September 27, 2013, 02:04:11 PM
sent a new 40 foot V6 overhanging route yesterday (barely). 
Mind sharing? That sounds pretty sweet.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on September 27, 2013, 04:55:57 PM
sent a new 40 foot V6 overhanging route yesterday (barely). 
Mind sharing? That sounds pretty sweet.

Send me a PM. Happy to give you a tour, next mountain over from Farley and not a soul.   
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JoeC on September 27, 2013, 07:24:29 PM
Sent a new line in milford last night thats been a project off and on for a few years.  Awesome proud line
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JoeC on October 11, 2013, 09:43:29 PM
http://mountainproject.com/v/paradigm-of-parallelity/108357412(http://mountainproject.com/images/2/40/108380240_large_5756fd.jpg?1381519535)
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Admin Al on October 11, 2013, 10:59:08 PM
Very cool picture!
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JoeC on October 11, 2013, 11:09:05 PM
Thanks Al!  I cant tale credit for it.  Thats smack dab in the middle of the crux.  I think I sent it the next go.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on October 24, 2013, 07:20:07 PM
Killer day today!

Ella got up all but the last few feet of the Sun Cave descent route.  4.13c, AO.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on November 09, 2013, 04:35:54 PM
Nice day today, though cold.  Two shots of Steve Johnson on "Rebel Base," V3/4

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: perswig on November 09, 2013, 07:22:35 PM
I never thought I'd say this, but that ^^ looks like fun.  Or something.

Dale
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JoeC on November 09, 2013, 08:15:48 PM
Im going to have to come out there!  Looks like some good stuff out that way!  Course im just used to the granite around milford
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on November 16, 2013, 03:45:18 PM
One of the top 10 days this year, super low humidity, 50 degrees, blue skies and rhino horns....

Yoda V5 and Monkey King V9
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: tstorm11 on November 16, 2013, 08:03:12 PM
Where is that?
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on November 16, 2013, 08:14:10 PM
Ward, you and your buddies are killing us with this nonsense.  :)

My adventure today consisted entirely of cutting down a low branch the neighbor was too lazy to do.
I did not even have to use a step stool to reach so NO CLIMBING!

Yoda looks sweet.  I need a warm weekend in December and a TOUR!  Hint, hint.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Pete Jackson on November 16, 2013, 09:02:39 PM
My adventure today consisted entirely of cutting down a low branch the neighbor was too lazy to do.
I did not even have to use a step stool to reach so NO CLIMBING!

Amazing amazing amazing sunny day today. Sorry Soon!
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on November 17, 2013, 07:33:47 AM
Where is that?

Western mass, near Farley. 
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on December 09, 2013, 07:50:44 PM
Cold yesterday, if you are looking for ice it was on top of my project. Wonderful verglass. 

Here I am "warming up" in cloudy 20's conditions.  Yes we have snow.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on December 09, 2013, 08:04:32 PM
Shoeless, are you nuts, Ward?  Don't answer that.  We know the answer :)
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on December 09, 2013, 08:07:46 PM
Shoeless, are you nuts, Ward?  Don't answer that.  We know the answer :)


Who is more nuts, me or my spotter?

And you already know that shoes are aid climbing.

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on December 09, 2013, 09:21:48 PM
Child abuse! Or at least child labor!
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on January 05, 2014, 07:04:21 AM
Cold day yesterday, mostly snow shoveling but some bouldering was done as well.  The two move dyno problems are a lot better than my 30 move project right now....after about five moves the fingers are frozen.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Admin Al on January 05, 2014, 08:09:03 AM
I guess it's "always" bouldering season, isn't it? GRIN. Hey Ward, can I use one of these pix for the site? ThnX

Al
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on January 05, 2014, 09:04:10 AM
Sure Al.  Since I took the big one in Huntington's 25 years go it is always rock season anyway.  If the sun is out you can do short boulder problems no matter how cold; the official weather station in the town next to my local bouldering was -16 yesterday morning!   

Mrs. Eyebolter is forcing me into the gym today.  Hoping to flash the yellow route in the lead cave; how's that for an inspiring goal? LOL

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on January 30, 2014, 07:11:07 PM
Cobalt blue sky today and all the way "up" to 25 after a low this morning of zero.   Hiked out with the two and a half year old on my back, pack in  the front with baby chair and all the crap.  Pretty tired by the time I actually reached the boulders.

31 days off the wine.....lost 5 pounds but still not sending so i'm drinking again tonight.

It might help if I can get on it when the tempertature is actually above freezing.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on January 30, 2014, 07:43:40 PM
Rest up and relax Ward.  Go again Fri or Sat.  You WILL send if you are in the right frame of mind.
My guess is you were too "tense" today.  The low temp definitely did not help.
And a baby sitter or a pack mule would matters as well:)
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JoeC on January 31, 2014, 08:37:42 AM
It was awesome outside yesterday!  Ran around milford for some outdoor mileage.  Im still climbing new things back there!
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on March 16, 2014, 06:45:13 PM
Finally sent my project today....drinking a bunch of wine.  Sun God, V9 I think, haven't climbed V9 or V10 for like 12 years so who knows.

Partner called it off this morning since it was cloudy, windy and a snow squall covering the ground.  But then I found a 1957 silver dime in my change and the sky cleared so I decided to go out alone and give it a shot.

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: Pete Jackson on March 16, 2014, 08:21:49 PM
Finally sent my project today....drinking a bunch of wine.  Sun God, V9 I think, haven't climbed V9 or V10 for like 12 years so who knows.

Partner called it off this morning since it was cloudy, windy and a snow squall covering the ground.  But then I found a 1957 silver dime in my change and the sky cleared so I decided to go out alone and give it a shot.

Congrats! I went out today with jbeta and we were imagining we were the only crazies out on rock today. Glad to hear we weren't! 
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: JoeC on March 16, 2014, 09:52:10 PM
I was most def out today.  Bouldered around most of the day.  Then a workout when I came home.  what am I doing still awake?
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: M_Sprague on March 17, 2014, 01:10:33 AM
Nice, Ward!

I finally got out this weekend both days for some local bouldering after not climbing for almost 3 months even at the gym. I don't know if I have ever taken that much time off since I started. Did alright for off the couch, but I can feel it a little bit now from the dynos, lol. The snow is almost completely gone here in southern RI and the friction was great today. So nice to be back on the rock. ..need to get my finger power up for something I have in mind at Rumney  :P
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: M_Sprague on March 20, 2014, 12:12:11 AM
4 new FAs this afternoon in my local illegal spot I sneak into (land owned by a bank). perfect conditions  :)
I haven't been up there yet this season, but I would imagine Lincoln Woods must be in pretty prime conditions, for anyone wanting to escape the snow of further north.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on March 22, 2014, 03:34:01 PM
So I went out yesterday and did the start without the big boulder at the base....looks like the project has a new life.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: joev9 on April 02, 2014, 11:18:28 AM
I think the window might have closed on my shot this spring to send the HS Egg project.  So freaking close, but I need 40 degree weather not 50s...
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: M_Sprague on April 02, 2014, 01:12:58 PM
Just hit it early in the AM, Joe

Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: joev9 on April 02, 2014, 04:39:03 PM
Might have to go that route, Mark, but I don't seem to climb as well in the morning.  I can run in the morning but climbing not so much...
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 02, 2014, 05:20:07 PM
Still will be plenty of good days, you will just have to time it right.

Looking to get on Speed of Life now, a north facing glacier so 50's are not a problem.   Did Sun God without the boulder in two pitches today, 40's and cloudy, then the sun came out and soared into the 50's and I wished I had my shorts.  50's and sun is definitely too warm for hard climbing despite all the gym climbers who are waiting for summer to go outside.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on April 02, 2014, 10:34:35 PM
I would love to be able to play hookey from work today and tomorrow.  Work sucks.
Speed Boulder, Ward?  If I did not know better, I'd say you are nuts.  You must really own 16 crash pads and intend on deploying all of them in the crash zone. 
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: M_Sprague on April 03, 2014, 04:25:46 AM
Ella must be getting pretty good at spotting by now  ;D
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on April 03, 2014, 08:22:33 AM
I would love to be able to play hookey from work today and tomorrow.  Work sucks.
Speed Boulder, Ward?  If I did not know better, I'd say you are nuts.  You must really own 16 crash pads and intend on deploying all of them in the crash zone.


With age comes wisdom.  I did it in two overlapping pitches 12 years ago on a toprope with pads on the boulder behind you.   That will be my style of attempt.  The crux is pretty close to the top, and if you don't stick the dyno to the small crimps you might, 45 degree wall style, not let go of the better hold below you until last and then fall all the way down into the hole.   Most of the people who have done the route are capable of flashing it - I'm not. 
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on September 03, 2014, 12:28:03 PM
Found a new boulder at Farley if you can believe it, although a (gasp) slab.  Mostly V1 to V3; this is Dr. Johnson on "Edged out," V2.
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on September 03, 2014, 12:33:10 PM
Same route looking down.   
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: sneoh on September 03, 2014, 04:50:08 PM
Ward, lest you forget; "friends don't let friends climb slabs".
I have to say it looks like a fun low angle face!  Nice find and scrubbing!!
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on September 03, 2014, 05:19:40 PM
Ward, lest you forget; "friends don't let friends climb slabs".
I have to say it looks like a fun low angle face!  Nice find and scrubbing!!

I used to be a slab master of sorts...my first 5.12 onsight was a slab.   I have been climbing steep stuff for so long that V2 slab seems pretty damned hard, especially without any chalk.

I did't mention the nearby overhanging project with two mono moves on it....my tendons still hurt.

Somehow I get in that special mood and wander through the woods and manage to find all kinds of stuff...
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: joev9 on September 17, 2014, 09:35:52 AM
Last time I was at Farley, it seemed to me that there was potential for new problems right along the trail (like to the left and up from where the parking lot trail meets the bouldering trail) or maybe problems that had been climbed have regrown their lichen???  Maybe it's just my Lincoln woods mentality that every piece of rock should have a problem....
Title: Re: Bouldering Season is here!
Post by: eyebolter on September 17, 2014, 02:06:25 PM
Last time I was at Farley, it seemed to me that there was potential for new problems right along the trail (like to the left and up from where the parking lot trail meets the bouldering trail) or maybe problems that had been climbed have regrown their lichen???  Maybe it's just my Lincoln woods mentality that every piece of rock should have a problem....

Stevie J and I put up "Larger than Life" this spring, right where you are talking about.  We moved a bunch of loose rock out of the cave and paved the hiking trail there with slabs.  Sit down start, climbs the overhanging arete and highball face above the trail.  If you want to TR, there is a hidden two wave bolt anchor you can reach via the ramp to the left.   Best V5 at Farley in my humble opinion.  It did take two days of cleaning and rock moving but pretty mint now.  We also did a V4 sitdown just left, OK but not classic.


Some stuff was done years ago up and left.  However, those boulders stay pretty wet and vegetated.