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General => Events & Announcements => Topic started by: Jean Goldsborough on July 30, 2013, 05:44:28 PM

Title: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: Jean Goldsborough on July 30, 2013, 05:44:28 PM
Mark Synott is scheduled to instruct a day long clinic on Aid Climbing in North Conway, Saturday, August 24th.  As of this posting only 3 people are signed up and we need 6 to make it a go, 8 would be best to keep the cost down.  What will be covered: The mechanics of aid climbing, how to properly place and test your gear, rope and rack management, anchor systems, jugging, cleaning/lower outs, and if we have time - hauling.

If you are interested in this clinic please PM me and I will get you connected with the person organizing the day.
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: Admin Al on July 30, 2013, 08:22:20 PM
I took an aid course with Mark several years ago and I though it was very good. that man really knows his stuff.
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: DLottmann on July 30, 2013, 09:58:58 PM
8:1 aid climbing clinic? Iíd rather throw down the $$$ to hire Mark for 1v1... bet I would get way more out of the day...

realize with groups that size you move through material at the slowest participants pace... if you really want to get the basics of aid down I would shoot for 1:1 or 2:1 if it was with the person I planned on aid climbing with... just sayiní...
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: Jean Goldsborough on July 31, 2013, 01:17:03 PM
You can say 1:1 is a better ratio for ANY hands-on instruction. No doubt.  I think it depends on what your objectives are as a learner.  In this case, if you plan to do a lot of aid climbing, perhaps a clinic is a good way to start so that you get a feel for what it is all about.  Then for subsequent instruction you seek out the lower ratios.  Or if you aren't sure you want to get into aid climbing but are just interested in how it all works, this might be a worthwhile approach.  Or if you are primarily a free climber and would like to have a few basic aid skills in your quiver for rescue, bad weather on a route, etc, then gaining the basics in a clinic like this might be all you need.
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: frik on July 31, 2013, 04:10:36 PM
Or, as an alternative you could... go..... aid climbing.
i know, crazy....
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: M_Sprague on July 31, 2013, 06:25:54 PM
^^^Jesus Christ! If you don't like the idea of the damn course than don't take it.
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: DLottmann on July 31, 2013, 06:50:48 PM
Jesus Christ! If you don't like the idea of the damn course than don't take it.

Was that directed to Frik? A bit over-reaction to his suggestion donchathink?

As far as Frikís suggestion, Iíve tried aid climbing 2-3 times on my own, read lots of books on it, have a fair understanding of all the concepts, and would still take a 1v1 course with Mark given his experience with the style... Bet I could learn more in 8 hours with him than I could in a week by myself...

And to respond again to the OPís followup, my suggestion is based off the number of clients I have seen turn solid independent climbers who later confided the money they spent on guides the first couple years would have been better spend in private instruction. I think ďgroup ratesĒ are excellent for two reasons (this holds true to all adventure sports IMO):

1) Adventure vacation stuff...

2) Not sure Iíll like it

So if you have a feeling youíre going to be getting into aid climbing, Iíd suggest the smaller ratio type course. Either way, hope your course fills, and if it doesnít just ask Mark what itíll cost to keep it running with those who have signed up.
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: darwined on July 31, 2013, 09:30:27 PM
Jesus Christ! If you don't like the idea of the damn course than don't take it.

WORD!
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: Admin Al on July 31, 2013, 09:40:41 PM
well since DMan works for EMS, needless to say he isn't going to take the course.  :P
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: DLottmann on August 01, 2013, 05:53:31 PM
well since DMan works for EMS, needless to say he isn't going to take the course.  :P

What's that have to do with anything? Mark has some extensive aid and big wall experience, if I had money to spend on a guide (and a real interest in aid climbing) I would definitely take the course from him or Chauvin.
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: WharfRat on August 01, 2013, 06:11:00 PM
Douche man strikes again!
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: darwined on August 01, 2013, 09:09:35 PM
Uh oh
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: xcrag_corex on August 01, 2013, 10:32:54 PM
This is gonna turn into some "Gangs of North Conway" shiz... The humidity and rain getting to you all that bad?
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: darwined on August 01, 2013, 11:05:44 PM
This is gonna turn into some "Gangs of North Conway" shiz... The humidity and rain getting to you all that bad?

something like this?  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tYAA285gY0
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: DaveR on August 02, 2013, 09:19:04 AM
Douche man strikes again!

I see the adults have now joined the conversation. :P

When I was guiding I would quite often explain to clients that they will get way more education per dollar spent in a private or semiprivate day than in a group lesson. Aside from the class having to go at the pace of the slow person with 1 or 2 people a good guide can quickly assess your skill level and skip alot of the stuff they might do with a group. For example, if you find yourself working with a client who has been trad climbing for 30 years and is really solid on trad 11's are you going to spend as much time talking about gear placement as you would with a client who has been trad climbing for a year?

D'man made some good points and it doesn't matter one bit that he works for EMS especially when he gave 2 other guides a plug! He also stated you have to decide what you want to get from the class. He offered some things to think about that are good points and I thought that was part of the point of this site!

IMO there in no one better in NH than Synott or Chauvin to learn aid from. Marc Chauvin is in France for the summer and he just posted pics last week of them climbing Cosmic Arrete. I got really jealous!
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: M_Sprague on August 02, 2013, 09:45:20 AM
The plus side to a group course is you might meet someone, future climbing partner or maybe even a date  ;)
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: Jean Goldsborough on August 07, 2013, 05:52:49 PM
Wow, and I thought posting something benign in Events & Announcements would serve to promote the event (clinic).  Certainly everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but I do find it a bit disturbing that folks might publicly discourage readers/climbers from attending something like this.  No sooner had I posted it than discouraging words were cast about. (Thanks to those who posted in rebuttal.) Fortunately, we got just enough people for the clinic to go, although I am not sure anyone who saw it here signed up.
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: DLottmann on August 07, 2013, 06:55:28 PM
Ah, don't pay the nay-sayers any mind. Do post up a trip report to let us know how it went!
Title: Re: Intro to Aid Climbing Clinic
Post by: lucky luke on August 12, 2013, 09:11:32 PM
When I was guiding I would quite often explain to clients that they will get way more education per dollar spent in a private or semiprivate day than in a group lesson.

I teach aid climbing at two people at the same time....annoying because it is so slow that....zzzz...you berely....zzzzzz.... stay ......awake.....zzzzz...... between two mistake that the climber do. More people means more action for the guide who have to look at what people do at every moment (in the nose, Yosemite, a climber lost his thumb because he place his finger at the wrong place).

So, I think that for the goal to reach, learning how to place good pro, it is a good ratio. But, if the goal is to know the level of stress I can sustain, without having an anormal reaction, a one to one ratio is better -In diving, there is a test like that. You dive and your guide keep the bottle of air for him and he keep you under the water level for a while to see if you can keep your calm in a very stressfull situation, it is not very pleasant-.