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General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: gags on June 03, 2009, 06:51:26 PM

Title: Sugarloaf
Post by: gags on June 03, 2009, 06:51:26 PM
Anyone have any route information for the Sugarloaf cliff?  I have heard of a long 5.6 route I'm interested in.

-gags
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: punxnotdead on June 03, 2009, 07:24:35 PM
Chris,  There are many good routes up there!   The 6 you may be referring to is in the center of the cliff.  There is a semi bolted green slab that leads up to an anchor then a very sharp 5.6 crack that leads to the top.  There are also alot of other climbs there that are more than worth it to jump on.  I guarantee that you will be able to get up anything you find.  I really like the 5.9? about 50 feet to the left of the 5.6 I mentioned.  There are also some fantastic 5.7's to the right that are also awesome!!!  Dont worry about Paul Cormiers home made bolt hangers, I havent tested them, but they look solid!!!!

Have a great time on your adventure!!!! 

Btw, It is easier to hike down to the base of the cliff if you follow an easy groove down and to the right/middle of the top of the cliff (looking out).

Best,

Bill Keiler
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: gags on June 05, 2009, 07:43:09 AM
Bill - are you saying I should hike to the top of the cliff and then scramble down a groove to the base?

-gags
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: perswig on June 05, 2009, 12:36:34 PM
Bill - are you saying I should hike to the top of the cliff and then scramble down a groove to the base?

-gags

Yeah, inquiring minds would like to know, please.
Dale


Edit - thanks to mopowers for the directions.
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: mopowers on June 05, 2009, 01:13:42 PM
 The best way to get to the cliff is to take the Middle Sugarloaf hiking trail to the top then hike down and around to the base. It has been a long time since i have been there but i remember a easy hike around on both sides of the cliff. There are no rappel anchors or trees at the top so each time you top out you need to hike back down to the base, it only takes a few minutes. I remember hiking around the left side (looking out) more often but i am sure Bill knows the sweet spot. Paul Cormier's route with the homemade hangers is the route i remember enjoying the most. The rock there is very abrasive but great quality, much like J Tree granite. The oldest Webster guide covers Sugarloaf.
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: meclimber on June 05, 2009, 01:51:28 PM
Is sugarloaf the cliff that has a notorius OW.  I've wanted to go there and get on that route.  I wish the 2 webster books were one, then I would have bathroom reading for life. ;D
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: strandman on June 05, 2009, 07:41:26 PM
Is sugarloaf the cliff that has a notorius OW.  I've wanted to go there and get on that route.  I wish the 2 webster books were one, then I would have bathroom reading for life. ;D

you want notoriuos OW ? I got some for ya--

Original free Beast 11- MY ASS

Crack between Worlds- 11, yet unrepeated to my knowledge, Cathedral

Slam Dance-10+++++

Jimmy's Route at Texaco- 11-  after a month in Veedawoo , I got 20'

Madera- Damp-9+ Unrepeated ???
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: meclimber on June 06, 2009, 11:35:32 AM
The beast looks over the top, I saw a couple of local strong guys on it and not-so-much 11- was the consensus that I got.  I know that crack between worlds (the climb to the right of bongo?) has at least one repeat, tim kemple.  Has madera-damp never been repeated?  Woodchuck is one of my favorite cliffs and I've often stood at the base and comtemplated how the route is 5.9.  John, is the texaco route a tight corner with a square cut roof?   Maybe 4"-5"?
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: punxnotdead on June 06, 2009, 02:26:02 PM
Chris/Dale,

Yup, looking out from the top of the cliff, there is an easy groove on the right that will take you down to the base.

Enjoy!

Bill

ps, if you guys want me to show you around I can, just let me know ahead of time.
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: strandman on June 06, 2009, 05:04:27 PM
The beast looks over the top, I saw a couple of local strong guys on it and not-so-much 11- was the consensus that I got.  I know that crack between worlds (the climb to the right of bongo?) has at least one repeat, tim kemple.  Has madera-damp never been repeated?  Woodchuck is one of my favorite cliffs and I've often stood at the base and comtemplated how the route is 5.9.  John, is the texaco route a tight corner with a square cut roof?   Maybe 4"-5"?
Ya the Texaco route is about 4-5", James worked it pretty hard. I once saw Bob Rotert REALLY having a hard time on the Beast, so much for my chances. Grats to Tim, I tried for 3 days on CBW on still didn't do it. Kurt said something about a"blind #3 hex" placement !
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: slink on June 06, 2009, 05:16:54 PM
 I agree with Bill looking right and head down the groove is the best.I tried both ways and the better routes are on that side of the cliff.I have done 7 or 8 routes there in the past year or so, some in the Webster guide and some not.The 5.6 crack through the overlap is great and the direct start is really good.
 Jim
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: gags on June 08, 2009, 05:00:25 PM
Bill - I went out to Sugarloaf.  I got on a nice slab with 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.  The second pitch followed a crack to a flake and finished with 20ft of slab climbing.  Both pitches felt 5.6/5.7.  I didn't go on from there not knowing where the route went or what route I was on.  I saw some other good looking routes.  Does the 5.9 you speak of go through a roof with a crack?  And is the 5.6 between that route and the route I did?

Overall, high quality rock, easy to access - I recommend Sugarloaf.

-gags
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: punxnotdead on June 11, 2009, 07:32:13 PM
Chris,

If you walked down the way I described.  The first bolted route (with normal hangers) is 5.9.  The first bolt on it is kind of high.  It goes up to a tree with slings.

The green slab that leads up to a crack through a roof is Bullet?  the slab is 5.7/8 the sharp crack through the roof is 5.6. 

I would be happy to go up there with you sometime just PM me.  I am free this weekend if interested.

Bill Keiler
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Danielle on June 22, 2009, 12:28:50 PM
Hey guys , I am still kinda new around here, are you talking about the sugarloaf that sits just north of shell Pond or the ** ski resort Sugarloaf* . I am ;looking for climbing area in western maine ?
Danielle
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Admin Al on June 22, 2009, 05:00:29 PM
the one off 302, northwest of Bretton Woods nearby to Mt. Oscar.

--al
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Admin Al on July 03, 2009, 02:41:59 PM
Joe Perez sent me a description of one of the routes that he and his wife Judy did out there in 2002. it sounds really nice. thanks to them for putting up this and so many other nice routes and for passing this information along.

--al

------------

Middle Sugarloaf Mountain

Bolt in the Sky  5.9

Directions:  On the Zealand Road park at the Sugarloaf Trail Head. A forty minute hike and a left turn at the juncture of the Middle Sugarloaf and North Sugarloaf trail will bring you to the summit of Middle Sugarloaf.

From the summit walk and scramble down the right side of the cliff (when looking down) to the base.  Walk along the base until you come to a prominent right facing corner/arete near the right end of the cliff.  To the left of the corner/ arête you will see a bolt line on a slab. The climb begins here.

Description:  If you look up at the sky from the base of the climb you will see a lone bolt on a corner/arête about one hundred fifty feet above the ground. This bolt is on the third pitch of the route.  It is easy to reach from the second belay and it protects the move onto the next slab to the left. Slab climbing characterizes the first and third pitch. The second pitch is characterized by crack climbing.

Pitch 1:  Face climb past several bolts to a two bolt anchor. 80,, 5.8

Pitch2: Climb a hand crack (gear required) to a hollow flake. Layback the flake, clip a bolt above the flake and climb up to a corner with bolt anchors.  70,, 5.8

Pitch 3: From the anchors, traverse left across slabs to the first bolt mentioned in the description. Clip the bolt and climb over the edge onto the next slab to the left.  Face climb the slab to another bolt.  From the bolt, climb to a small bush.  A large cam can be placed in a crack near the bush.  Continue on easier ground to the top. 160,, 5.9

Gear:  Normal rack plus a three and four camalot

Descent:  Walk to the summit and hiking trail which is a few hundred feet from the top of the climb

FA:  September 2002, Joe and Judy Perez
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: cwoodman on July 03, 2009, 04:13:07 PM
In December 2001 I did a nice 2 pitch route that I think is worth doing (most of the climbs on Middle Sugarloaf are nice). Here's a description.

Drop down the right side gully (when looking out) and walk along the bottom of the cliff for a couple hundred feet til the cliff drops down further in the woods. The start is just left of the old route- Skyline Promenade-5.9, that follows a couple of long arches up and right. Look for two offset cracks 30' up.

Bad Dog   5.7  240'
 
1. Just before coming to the low point, step right onto the slab and climb up through two offset cracks (nice, 5.6) then continue up steep slab past a couple bolts to a natural thread anchor on a nice ledge. 5.7 100'
2. Climb up to a small right facing corner/arch (5.7), protect with small nuts, and head straight up past 3 or 4 bolts on  beautiful rock to a sloping belay at some large blocks. Scramble over the blocks to the top.  5.7  140'

This is a really fun climb on perfect rock.

History: I worked on this climb over two days on a warm spell in Dec., 2001. The first day I spent cleaning out the cracks, then came back and bolted it on lead the next day. On the hike in on day two, I was bitten on one arm by a huge dog that was hiking with two women. It was running off its leash and apparently feeling pretty protective. We all hiked back our cars where one of the women- Paul Cormier's wife Michelle cleaned up my wound. It hurt like hell but it was such a nice day, I had to head back up to finish the climb.  Dogs will be dogs, the women were very apologetic, and I didn't pursue it further. My big, dumb golden runs free on trails, too.   
I'm hesitant to call this a FA, because the history is obscure and my feeling is that by now, most of the crags in the White Mountains have been criss crossed by anonymous climbers for decades. I'm pretty sure the cracks hadn't been climbed directly because they were packed with dirt, but the slab above- who knows. Maybe a FRA.

For those who haven't climbed there, it's a great backcountry crag with mostly exceptional rock and terrific views. 
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Admin Al on July 07, 2009, 01:40:18 PM
went to hike up there on Sunday. there were at least 25 cars at the lot when we arrived so that was a concern. about halfway up we met folks coming down telling of a church group heading up to Middle of about 100 people carrying guitars, babies, megaphones & box lunches! [sigh] needless to say we opted for North...

there are a couple of huge boulders near the bottom of the trail, just past the logging road. there has to be some bouldering on those, tho they are covered with moss & lichen now. in addition on the 302 side of the North summit there are some pretty huge ledges. there is at least an 80' overhanging cliff up there. has anyone climbed on any of that? someone has to have done that...

after the hike I looked along the Zeland road to see if I could find an open place to get a shot of Middle but couldn't find anything. does anyone have a wide shot of the slab side that I could use for the Routes section? same for Mt. Oscar...

thanks

--al
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: cwoodman on July 07, 2009, 02:10:14 PM
Al,
There is a bit of climbing on North Sugarloaf and that, too, was listed in Webster's older guidebooks. Mostly done by the prolific Todd Swain & Co back in the 70's. I climbed there in the late 70's with mentors Dick Peterson & Jose Abeyta, but I'd definitely recommend 'Middle' if I was a first time 'sugarloafer' looking to hike in there and climb. North has a nice view and more solitude though.
Chuck
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: gags on July 08, 2009, 08:33:25 PM
Al,
I think I climbed that route Joe Perez described to you a couple of weeks ago.  The route description is good except for the fact that the bolt line on the first pitch starts to the right of the large right facing corner - not the left.  The bolt on the third pitch you speak of protects a move over the corner and the climb finishes to the left of the corner/arete.  Very fun climb.
-gags
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Admin Al on July 08, 2009, 10:37:09 PM
gags & Chuck -

thanks for the comments. Sugarloaf seems like a great place to climb. the solitude & beauty is almost unsurpassed. I'll bet the views of the Zeland Valley are truly amazing in the fall. now about some drier weather...

--al
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: punxnotdead on September 27, 2009, 10:40:31 AM
So Jack and I went up there yesterday. 9/26.   We did Chucks route Bad Dog, which I found to be an awesome piece of climbing, really fun with bolts right where you need them (I love that natural thread anchor) 

Also did pitch one of Bolt in the Sky.  The second pitch didnt look that exciting so we just rapped.  But now, after reading the beta on it, I will have to go back and do the whole thing.

We also did a Cormier? (famous hangers on it) route that I did many years ago as well. 

I started up the middle route that finishes with the crack/overlap, but the arthritis in my left big toe wasnt interested in doing the run out from the first to the second bolt on P1.  So we just walked out.

I would love to see a write up on this cliff (Paul/Chuck/Ed W?).  It is such a great place which is full of adventure (which could be an arguement for NOT writing up this cliff).  We didnt see anyone on Oscar.

we noticed a lone bolt on the very short slab way to the right (facing out from the top of the cliff), any ideas? It seemed to be a new one.

I plan on going up there one more time this year, as it is just so friggin beautiful out there.

Bill
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Admin Al on September 27, 2009, 10:58:01 AM
I would love to see a write up on this cliff (Paul/Chuck/Ed W?).  It is such a great place which is full of adventure (which could be an arguement for NOT writing up this cliff). 

I hear this comment every so often for some of the outback cliffs. it's one for not publicizing the hike in to Crag Y or descriptions of Green's Cliff. "I don't want it to become another Cathedral Ledge!" frankly these areas will NEVER become all that popular. only a select group pf climbers will spend the time to make the hike to Green's or Sugarloaf. it's just not going to happen. when I go to Woodchuck/Eagle Cliff there is never anyone there. in fact I don't think I've ever been there when anyone else is there. the only time I see other folks at a place like Lost Ledge is when it's a group that has planned to meet there.

IMNSHO if you want routes to not retreat back into the lichen & moss that they came from, they need to at least be occasionally climbed. Therefore people need to know about them. hey - I'll bet Crag Y is totally overgrown.

--al
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: strandman on September 27, 2009, 11:22:07 AM
I for one Al would be happy to write up some stuff for Green's or some other crags. How about Stairs ?  If we did it for the Captain then why not these ?

As for Sugarloaf- I saw Ed Websters draft for a guide book that was to be volume 2 of his last book that was quite detailed. Is Ed still in Brownfield ?
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: DGoguen on September 27, 2009, 11:33:36 AM


I'll bet Crag Y is totally overgrown.


It's been two years since I've been out there but it wasn't any worse than what you would expect from that type of experience. I've been there a few times and have enjoyed it for what it is. It's full on crack climbing that's a bit scrappy. But what do I know, I thought Gypsy was reasonably clean last time I did it.
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Admin Al on September 27, 2009, 11:44:22 AM
Strand - let me look thru my notes. I think I have some stuff for Green's plus there is the few things in the Webster guide. I'll send you what I have & see if we can coordinate. Ed is living over on the coast in Maine. not sure of his address these days tho.

Dave G - that's better than I would have expected considering that it's so rarely visited. wish there was a better trail/directions tho.

--al
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: DGoguen on September 27, 2009, 11:50:44 AM
"I don't want it to become another Cathedral Ledge!"
You can choose your own experience at Cathedral. The other day a friend and I traversed into Don't Fire from Diedre. The bolted crux is well protected and has two pitches of 5.9 corner above that. Granted it's not the cleanest but thats part of it. You can still have an adventure. Get on something different.  
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: DGoguen on September 27, 2009, 11:54:40 AM
Dave G - that's better than I would have expected considering that it's so rarely visited. wish there was a better trail/directions tho.
--al
It took me a whole day to find Crag Y the first time. Without climbing. Love NE
I've hit it each time after that. Probably jinxed myself now.
My Directions: Hit GO TO, and as you follow the arrow, stumble through the woods like an idiot until you surprisingly come to the top of the cliff.
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: strandman on September 27, 2009, 12:12:25 PM
Base told me that they were looking for the outback Cliff when they stumbled upon Crag Y ! It's got to be at least 5 miles away! Outback must be pretty desolate now too. Stairs has some good routes as a pretty easy hike (if jericho RD is open ) a nice area.
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: alclimbup2 on September 27, 2009, 12:50:53 PM
LOL, I can picture Base stumbling around in the woods for hours and finally finding something to climb, would love additional info on Stairs and Greens other than whats already in the orig Webster Guide, thanx if you guys come up with something

just looked at long range weather forecast, bummer for rock,maybe it'll change,hope so, have friday off  Hiked Lafayette last friday, upper cairns all iced up, windchill had to be near 0, brrr, time to sharpen the tools
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: slink on September 28, 2009, 08:57:30 AM
 Bill;
 I wish that I could have gotten out with you.Sounds like a great day glad that you got out with Jack.Lets get up there in the next few weeks.
 Jim
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: MT on September 28, 2009, 07:00:15 PM
Hey Jimbo,

If all other partners fail, I'm probably open for late next week. Sugarloaf would be a great day with a snowcap on Mt Wash. Drop me a line next week.

Mike
Title: Re: Sugarloaf
Post by: Gunkswest on July 29, 2013, 09:06:57 PM
Quoting: "The green slab that leads up to a crack through a roof is Bullet?  the slab is 5.7/8 the sharp crack through the roof is 5.6."

Correct route name is Bullit after the 1970s car chase movie. On the FA of the first pitch (which BTW, had no bolts placed for pro, only one 1/4" bolt for a belay under the ceiling with the crack) we found a link of expended .223 rifle casings from a weapon like a SAW (Squad Automatic Weapon). That link and the movie gave the route it's name. The second pitch required at least two further attempts, cleaning the blueberry-filled crack through the ceiling on the lead. The route was finished in the rain, making for some exciting slab climbing near the top!