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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: kenreville on April 02, 2013, 08:19:02 PM

Title: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 02, 2013, 08:19:02 PM
So what's you're most memorable fall while leading? For me that's a tough one as there have been many that are longer than what most climbers consider comfortable.
One memorable one was on The Arete on Cathedral. My belayer was zenning out watching the hoards of guided climbers (in particular a group of hot chickies) while sporting a giant speed loop. I had climbed above the crux bolt (5ft below my feet) and was crimping my ass off when I popped. I fell below the rest overlap- about 30ft. As I was falling, I had enough time to think to myself "how come this is happening?"

Joe Lentini was guiding that day and actually took a picture of me mid-flight.

Let's here it boys. Whatta ya got? I know I've got several more memorable whippers.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 02, 2013, 08:56:35 PM
Another one was on The Missing Link. After struggling on the 2nd overlap, I had essentially finished the climb. Problem was, I had a warpig (pump) in my forearms. I grabbed the enormous bucket to top off and simply couldn't hold on.

I almost hit my belayer (Ajax Greene), who was at the bolt anchor belay of Thin Air (after the traverse).

That puppy was at least 40ft.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: pappy on April 02, 2013, 09:47:44 PM
Right after Iíd moved back to GA, still a pup, I went to Tallulah Gorge for the first time. Tallulah is diamond hard quartzite, I love tri-cams but I donít even bother there, wonít grip, same with cams if itís a parallel placement and you donít get it deep. Anyway, Curtis Glass puts me on Flying Frog, which he calls a nice 5.8, Ďcause for a while there sandbagging Corbett was the national f$%king pastime. Actually itís a Gottlieb classic and one of the best pitches in the South and a consensus 10c. A full, sustained rope length with a 30í layback corner at the top that everyone has fallen out of at some point, though I didnít know any of this then.

By the time I get to the corner Iím fried. I try every stemming, cheating thing I can think of, but itís a layback, so finally I plug a Friend blind because Iím too flamed to pull in and look to see if itís any good and then I take off for the top. And a couple of moves from the top the muscles just give up and Iím off.

And Iím falling, and falling, and falling. I hate the ones where youíre in the air long enough to analyze everything and I just know that Friend has blown. This is bad, since the next piece is an RP in a parallel seam 10' below that that wonít hold a loud fart, and it occurs to me that this has the potential to approach triple digits. And then I stop. Friend held, but the guy who Curtis has belaying me is only climbing for the third time ever and had left a giant loop of slack in the rope. It was better than 50í and I was ecstatic, cause I was still alive.

And since you mentioned him, a funny Ajax story. We climbed together a good bit when we were both in Breckenridge in the mid-80s and he was always telling me the Ďright wayí to do things, like you should be able to stand at the bottom of any climb and choose a dozen pieces, 16 tops, and thatís all you should take. Whatever, Ajax. We go into Cynical Pinnacle to do the Center Route and Iím taping up because that South Platte granite has teeth, and heís giving me a ration because you shouldnít have to tape if you have good technique. Whatever, Ajax. Even with the tape my hands got chewed up pretty good, because maybe my technique wasnít the best, but he didnít tape at all, and his hands were f%^king handburger for the next three weeks. People screamed when they saw us, zombie hands raised from the dead.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 02, 2013, 10:34:41 PM
Shit- for this thread, i feel like hennie youngman ( an old comic)  I got a million of them;

Unwanted Guests  f/a  whitehorse.. we shared drilling,, free, onsite etc.. i did 2 and Karl did 1.. pull the rope and off i go.. got all the way to Future Shock and the hand popped.. big swing 40' plus pissed it would hae been a 12B f/a onsite, lead no falls SHIT
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: sneoh on April 03, 2013, 12:11:49 AM
Ajax is opinionated for sure.  I climbed quite a bit with him at The Gunks '95 and '96.  I did the right thing by always insisting that I bring my rack.  I told him he can bring whatever he wanted but when I led, I led with my rack.

My longest whip is pretty mild by comparison, maybe right at 30 feet.  Going for some .11 onsight at The New.  Got past the crux.  Pretty pumped but the run to the anchors is .10.  Problem was it was sporty bolted.  Gave it a good fight but came off about 4 feet from the anchors.  Saw two draws of mine go by on the way down.  Enough time for me to wonder if I was ever going to stop.  Then a very gentle deceleration on a brand new rope a friend had brought specially for the trip.  She was pissed I whipped before she did on that rope! :)

Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: lucky luke on April 03, 2013, 04:12:07 AM
Eighten feet or so, in the middle of a diedral, my knees hit the rock. I knew. It was not the day. I was on my second ascent of Lido in quebec, a 5.10, and I just want to make it. Route finding mistake, want to the left, skip the piton (hep! no bolt), and was trying to came back to the crack. As soon as I know that there is no choice I jump. going to the right to hold some thing with my hand, I didn't had the strength, my hand slip and I just had time to jump...on a rock number four in a kind of half inch flake...and still here to talk about it. I keep my nuts to remember.

Themost funny is when I climbed with that guy who told me that he want to follow a 5.10 climber. so, I made a good belay and climb a route, Frankeinstein. the name is horrible, but I didn't choose it. as I was closed to the top, I put a first nuts, not very good. So, I placed and other a little bit higher. As I do the move, I kicked the higher pro out of the crack. The people around, resting on ther buts after a climb, just jump on there feet. And I felt, falling on my second pro...the bad one. I resume and climb to the top. half and hours later, the guy at the b ottom was still walking back and forth because they were stress by my fall.

Oh! the guy who want to climb with a 5.10 trad climber nev er climbed with me again>  :-*
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: SA on April 03, 2013, 08:23:08 AM
Possibly a year after I started climbing, I attempted leading Turdland, at the Gunks. Willie Crowther, my mentor had me on a body belay, and eventually could see I was going to come off--my arms being pumped. I took a 30 footer.

On the 1st ascent of Intimidation, I came off at the very top of the awkward, slanting crack, on the 4th pitch.
My belayer, Bruce Beck caught me just as my toes hit the belay ledge. I was lucky there wasn't one more foot of slack!

I wasn't so lucky 8 years ago, when I took a nasty fall on the RNWF of Half Dome. Broke multiple bones in my foot etc.

My " finest" whipper was in 1971, while soloing the Prow in Yosemite. Zippered the entire A4 pitch, just before reaching the belay ledge--- 100 feet or more. John Dill, ( later to become head of YOSAR), Bridwell, and others were taking turns watching my progress, in the valley, looking thru a spotting scope, and they said that I completely went out of the field of view.

I'm too brittle to take any more falls, so I must be careful this season.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 03, 2013, 09:34:38 AM
good one Steve,,,, maybe Dill was hoping  ???  I learned a lot from that guy.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 03, 2013, 10:07:55 AM
Here's one that i caught;

After doing california Girls on Cathedral as an f/a i talked Tc into linking Ventilator-Western Lady and finish up Cali Girls in one pitch. Just don't fall off the last move !  Oh well, he did and down, down, down... skipping and sliding and then WHACK against the rock,, chalkbag first. An enormous cloud erupted but he was OK

It wasn't a very long lower to the ledge   :)
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 03, 2013, 11:01:59 AM
There's an Ed Webster 5.10 route on Humphreys. I forget the name.
I was bouldering one day at the bottom when this guy approached me and asked if I would climb with him. As it turned out, he was looking for someone to lead for him.
I remember getting past an overhanging section and up into unknown (off route) area. Protection waaaay below me.
I'm starting to sweat, sewing machine leg is coming on......
Gotta go. Gotta go. Gotta go.
So I go.
Hold breaks and I'm flying.
By far the longest fall I've ever experienced.
I figure 60-70ft.
Not a scratch on me afterwards.
After catching my breath, and kinda pissed (I really hate falling), I told my belayer I'm going back up to get that bitch.
Apparently, he was pretty shook up. He only wanted one thing. To go down.
So we went down.
Can't say I've ever gone back up there.

Just looked up the route name- Aries
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: Admin Al on April 03, 2013, 05:22:53 PM
buncha great stories... I gots nothin' to compare.

my big whipper was on Way In The Wilderness about 10 years ago. we got a late start and got there at about 10am. altho it was only about 20 degrees ambient, that place is a little convection oven. it was cloudy when we got there, but the sun came out just as I started climbing and immediately the ice started melting. I got up about 40' to the pillar on the right just below the pin. I got up and placed one of my leashless tools on the ice just left of the pin, took off a draw and was reaching to clip it and the whole pillar I was standing on collapsed. I had a 23cm screw in bomber ice about 10' below me with a screamer on it. somehow I didn't clip anything with my crampons, the screamer ripped and I was hanging there in space with my left tool up next to the pin and my partner looking completely spooked by my 20' + fall  on ice. I ended climbing back up to the screw and replacing the draw and thinking "My God, this shit actually WORKS!". I had him send up one of his tools and then I went back up to get my tool. I lowered off the pin & was done for the day. I really don't want to fall on ice...
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 03, 2013, 06:09:48 PM
It is a little oven there isn't it Al?
I went up to climb Way in the Wilderness with Stevie Damboise.
We got to the base and Stevie started up. Meanwhile, chunks of ice keep dropping from above- that sweeping dead vertical left side.
I notice that there's actually a little alcove I can get under. I squeeze in and continue belaying.
Suddenly CRASH.
A chunk of ice the size of a van hits precisely where I was JUST standing. Chards of ice splinter everywhere.
As I peer out from the alcove up at Stevie, he's already downclimbing like a banshee.
We hightailed it outta there. I've never gone back.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 03, 2013, 06:42:34 PM
About 1999 mid december one of those years when ice started late I tricked myself into rock climbing because it was supposed to be 40 and sunny. Snagged some poor sod (total stranger) from the gym and badgered him into going and haveing a look at something up on Mt Horrid.  It was sunny, windy and 20f. We ran up the spire/ Finger Rock and then thrashed up the talus to Perrigan Dihedral. I had it in my mind to do the 2nd ascent of the route that isa and I had put up the summer before.  I was over dressed and stuffed into my rock shoes with socks  and too tight a fit. Couldn't feel my feet, fingers too cold and bundeled up too much to move well. I worked my way up about 50ft to the crux where thing kind of gets thin. I had my right foot in a iced up crack but the the hands are super thin.  Got a shallow #0 purple TCU in and then a #3 micro stopper in a parralel sided crack took a tiny slip and the micro nut popped followed by the TCU, somehow I went upside down and yanked a #6 stopper out of a flared crack and then is was smooth sailing for awhile untill the bomber #13 stopper caught me about 10ft off the deck. I was too jazzed to even climb back up and get my draw off the #13 stopper. I just lowered the last 10 ft looked at the gear sale that had collected at my tie in point and called it a day. Never went back.....
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 03, 2013, 06:59:56 PM
Ken- you fell 70' at the Hump.. holly shit.... i like more air.
i ahve told this before but..

f/a Rellin' in the fears.. Albany slabs '81  .. I just start climbing,, no cleaning, no rap, just off we go.. i get maybe 10' fromt he top and start to freak.. i can't even see the last gear.. downclimb and sketch off.. bouncing and skipping WAY down

TC reeled in the rope , hand over hand and i only went 70',, maybe... it would have been a 100' crater for sure

Quick lower,, beer and off to Cannon to do the f/a of Slip o Fools.. THEN we did some drinkin'..

post  i lead it later that year,, the basic line is now Fool's For A day  10b  7 bolts.. whatever
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 03, 2013, 07:14:16 PM
i said i got a million of these-

Veedawoo '83-- he line we are looking at looks like an ass.. hence bob Scarpelli's name 'Squat" it's 5' crack out a 10' roof.

i go up, maybe having done some 5.10 wide.. maybe  i get up into the shit  ..hand stacks,, foot cams etc and off !! but not really, my right foot is still in.. get it free and fall off, not a bigg but upside down and very confused

" It shit you out """

No shit   12b done in '83 and jusr flashed last year  30 years !!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 03, 2013, 07:15:55 PM
I showed up one morning (3:00am), at the Red House in Keene Valley and woke up Cunningham. "Lets haul ass into Wallface and climb No Man's a Pilot."
You know you've woken a real climber (as well as a lifelong goomba) when he looks at ya and says (enthusiastically) "YES".
So we gear up and quite literally, in the dark, jog in the 6 mile approach.
We're high on the route- I'm leading this flaring chimney, groveling around, struggling to find some gear. ANYTHING. So I'm grunting and sweating and getting tired, basically.
All James can see is my fat ass wiggling around- trying to stay put in the chimney.
Well I finally got spit out, and fell 20ft.
Later, JC told me I Iooked like a turd getting crapped out.
That's why I'll always love the guy. He's got the best descriptions.
We did top out- then THRASHED through the thickest pine tree barrier I have ever faced.
BTW- that route has very near the top what is called the "diving board flake". Take a walk out onto that baby for some extreme exposure. Very cool.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: Admin Al on April 03, 2013, 07:26:21 PM
sunny day & 10 degrees is about right. anything warmer is not a good idea...
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 03, 2013, 07:27:20 PM
you mixed climbing fuckers are fuckin' fucked... even for a scot

Climbing with Kurt Winkler in yosemite,, we did some goo shit and decide to finish off the day on the Apron,, with some beers  SUPRISE

Ephemreral Clogdance  11d at the time i had done it before so  ,, leading up p2  chatting with Kurt.. ya ya ya  grab the belay ledge and..SEE YA off  a good 40+  Ripped 3 tacks on a WT air voyager

Kurt  ' you going back ?  AH, no  we'll i gottapull the rope ' that;s fine,, he fuckin' walked it
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 03, 2013, 07:53:03 PM
oh come on,, every body has fallen off ?

please...

The sad is maybe Black Lung.. i have seen 3 grounder off this and been part of 2 rescues,, pretty sad

we acted on a guy - they  died.. crater from maybe 40'  ? he was yelling about his back.. nice semi-cerc cut... HELP

How the fuck do you deck on a crack climb ? Unless it;s Stage fright.

Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 03, 2013, 07:59:54 PM
Really? Black Lung?

Wow. I had no idea. ???
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: pappy on April 03, 2013, 08:45:09 PM
This one actually showed up in Climbing when they wrote up Whitesides in the mid-90s...I'd started up what looked like a mellow slab, trying to put up a 'kids and in-laws' route on Wright Wall. I am somewhat notorious for consistently grossly underestimating difficulties from the ground. After about 80' the rock steepens and I get into the sh!t. The ethic was that if you put the bolts in closer than 20' apart you were just a pansy (fortunately I finally outgrew that crap), and Shannon's belaying with the old Stone Mt. belay, i.e. if I fall he takes off into the woods to suck in rope. I'm about 15' above my top bolt, working out the sequence, climbing up, climbing down, climbing up, climbing down, and Shannon, starts to get bored and lights up a little herbal refreshment. Then I climb up a little higher, and now I can't reverse it, the feet are sliming off, the fingers uncurling, and I see what looks like a pretty good hold 4' higher, and I never dyno but I'm freaking and I just full on huck it, stick it right at the deadpoint, and give off a 'Praise Jesus' shriek.
Shannon hears this, takes off into the woods, and yanks me right off.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 03, 2013, 09:03:19 PM
I like your style pappy. <thumbs up>
Shannon's herbal belay? <two thumbs up>
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: JJ Jameson on April 03, 2013, 09:56:27 PM
Pappy, sounds like a story I heard once. Told to me (I thought) by someone climbing there. Maybe it's my recollection of the same piece? Anyway, here is how I remember it...
The story teller is at a belay stance, top of the first pitch, enjoying the day while belaying their second. They are observing a leader, very high on the first pitch, approaching the same ledge, maybe one more move, but sketched out. The leader is looking awful, not good at all, at the very limit. He preps his belayer, saying "watch me", then lunges for a hold, not thinking he's gonna stick it. Over sends it, then as he is sliding back towards the earth, gets a positive grip on the hold. Salvation. Safety. Utter relief. A look of total happiness and joy, followed in a millisecond the look of abject fear as he feels the sickening jerk of the rope on his harness as his belayer sprints away from the base of the climb, thinking he hadn't caught that hold, and yanks him cleanly off the surface of the rock.


Was that you?
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: JJ Jameson on April 03, 2013, 10:04:03 PM
I've got a couple of my own, 45' inverted at Smith on rock, 40' onto a tied off screw on ice, they however, will have to wait until I have more time... no time to tell the stories the right way, right now. Love reading this stuff tho.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: John Ski on April 03, 2013, 11:33:16 PM
Not my finest but thought-changing. 1980 or abouts, been climbing a couple of seasons and had a meager rack of stoppers and hexes. I'm with my regular climbing partner at Cathedral when a local guide asks to join us while we do 007. I'm leading the pitch 2 crux, an undercling traverse to a mantle, flaming cause I can't get a solid stopper in the downward facing crack. My last piece is a ways back. My partner and the guide are chatting up a storm cuz I'm taking so long thinking about the move. I finally muster up the nerve to leave the crack and commit to the mantle. I'm stopped mid mantle by the rope not being fed out by my in-attentive belayer and off I sail. I never climbed with either again and to this day hate climbing in a party of 3 because 2 people left on a ledge will inevitablely chat and give less attention to the climber.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: pappy on April 03, 2013, 11:42:23 PM
Pappy, sounds like a story I heard once. Told to me (I thought) by someone climbing there. Maybe it's my recollection of the same piece? Anyway, here is how I remember it...
The story teller is at a belay stance, top of the first pitch, enjoying the day while belaying their second. They are observing a leader, very high on the first pitch, approaching the same ledge, maybe one more move, but sketched out. The leader is looking awful, not good at all, at the very limit. He preps his belayer, saying "watch me", then lunges for a hold, not thinking he's gonna stick it. Over sends it, then as he is sliding back towards the earth, gets a positive grip on the hold. Salvation. Safety. Utter relief. A look of total happiness and joy, followed in a millisecond the look of abject fear as he feels the sickening jerk of the rope on his harness as his belayer sprints away from the base of the climb, thinking he hadn't caught that hold, and yanks him cleanly off the surface of the rock.


Was that you?

Sounds like a mix of stories. I think I posted here at one point about the time I was on Blind Faith the first time I went to Eldorado. Roping up at the bottom these two honed women come up and huff at me, 'Do you know what this is?' and I say, 'Don't have the slightest idea.' They get all pissy and make it clear how put out they are that two dweebs they don't know are getting in over their heads in front of them on the climb they want to do. After leading P1, I'm belaying my partner on P2 when the leading lady appears pulling onto the slab just below me. She looks pretty fried, then her eyes get like saucers and she screams and slides backwards out of sight. It was quite satisfying.

The route in the story above was an FA, no one above. A white streak that was supposed to be a kids and in-laws route, instead it became 'Little White Lie' 5.10R. Like I said, I'm terrible at judging these things from the ground.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: xcrag_corex on April 03, 2013, 11:52:00 PM
Here it goes. My finest whipper. A couple seasons ago I took a 7 footer onto a purple C3 in a seam backed up with a BD#4 on a pod. It was deliberate. Though not a big fall it was game changing. I had started climbing trad a couple years prior and the fellas I learned to place pro from are some older chaps who follow the leader must not fall ethic. I was wanting to push my limits and having not fallen on gear before I was afraid to take the plunge. So one of my other partners noticed I was struggling with this irrational fear(because good pro could be had) so he told me what to place and had me clime above...... Let go.... Whoosh. Not a big one but totally opens my eyes to the capability of properly placed gear. It also sold me on a set of BD C3s. What a fine whipper.....
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: Admin Al on April 04, 2013, 08:36:36 AM
xcrag_corex - I hear ya. my then-girlfriend, now-wife, was getting into leading almost 20 years ago. she was a good leader, but had that innate fear of falling on gear. we were down in Boston at Hammond Pond one day after work and she was leading the beautiful hand/finger crack on the right side of the main wall. she was near the top and I asked her if she trusted her gear. she said, of course. so I said, then make a couple of moves above your last piece and take a fall on it. we went back and forth for 10 minutes while she inspected the placement and went up, then back down, rinse repeat... finally she put in another cam just below the nut placement, moved up and stepped back. needless to say, 'cause I'm still married, the gear held and she became a lot more confident in the systems. it was a good exercise, assuming you really do place good gear...
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: ridgerunner on April 04, 2013, 01:17:06 PM
1979 in Diedre's next to last pitch ? My memory is fuzzy cuz I haven't been on it since. Got totally pumped. Got a piece of pro in the crack, way higher than my head, and dropped the rope like 3 times trying to clip the biner. On my first try, with 2 miles of rope in my teeth, my strength vanished...I went flying for more than 20 feet and did not touch anything. 
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 04, 2013, 05:52:07 PM
1979 in Diedre's next to last pitch ? My memory is fuzzy cuz I haven't been on it since. Got totally pumped. Got a piece of pro in the crack, way higher than my head, and dropped the rope like 3 times trying to clip the biner. On my first try, with 2 miles of rope in my teeth, my strength vanished...I went flying for more than 20 feet and did not touch anything.

Was it a perfect corner or a bulging crack system? If the former, yes, that's the next to last pitch.

Diedre is an absolute must do Cathedral 5.9. F'in awesome route.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: Admin Al on April 04, 2013, 06:40:10 PM
Diedre is an absolute must do Cathedral 5.9. F'in awesome route.

++++++
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 04, 2013, 06:41:12 PM
In the old red book, I think it's 5.8+   .. except for the crux of course
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 04, 2013, 07:41:51 PM
Not really a "whipper", but I took an extreme fall while telemarking down Left Gully in Tuck's with Rob Adair.
I've had "life" flashes 3 times in my life. This flash was longer than I would've liked.

Midwinter, hard as a sidewalk.....I'm still to this day happy to be alive.

If Rob chimes in, I'm sure he'll agree.

 

Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: mechanicalchris on April 05, 2013, 07:48:43 AM
Great topic. All my falls are on low-grade slab so there's less "whipping" and more "grating"
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: old_school on April 05, 2013, 09:42:17 AM
Took a nasty long fall off the top of the flake on "Flying Jib" with Dave Penny belaying. Thought the suffer fest was over...15' above a #2 Cam in the flexing creaking flake...saw the promised land about 6' above me...thought about placing one more piece but thought...how hard can it be...I will just fire for the bolt. Two moves up and the right foot slid out on moss and lichen and off I came. I watched all the pieces as I soared by them and heard the explosion of the #2 Cam levering and catching my fall. Dave said all he saw was a blur of flailing arms and legs followed by a cloud of stone dust and pebbles!! It was a good 25-30'r.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: DGoguen on April 05, 2013, 10:17:53 AM
My Finest was in 83 and my first. Might have been one of my first leads. On Standard at Cathedral. My belayer was on the tree below the cave. I went up to the base of the cave wall and figured there's no way the route goes up that slimy mess, so I came down and started up the main face on the right. I had no idea what I was doing and just kept pushing up until I just dead ended and launched in a great arc of the diver. I was probably 15' above the belay with no gear. I came directly onto the belay, ripped my partner out of the chimney and we both ended up swinging from the tree like kinetic balls. A good 40' footer with stretch and a little chaos.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: JChepes on April 05, 2013, 09:47:25 PM
I scored mine this year.  Not a whipper but a fall none the less.  Was at Holts approaching the climb Jaws.  Was no snow on the ground so I figured I would just walk up to the base and get set up.  Got up and realized I was standing on a sheet of ice.  Turned around, slipped and began sliding on my back head first down the hill.  Slid about 40ft with my pack on like an upside down turtle.  Closed my eyes and waited for impact.  Missed 6 trees and finally spun around impacting a tree stump with my thigh.  Got up, took 2 motrin and led the climb.  On the rap left leg was not functioning right.  Barely made it to the road and my girlfriend ran to get the truck to pick me up.

Grade 3 contusion with a hematoma. Left quad exploded on impact.  Lost Feb and half of March.  Thank goodness for the long season as I was lucky to be able to get some ice before it was all gone.

True awareness comes from direct experience.  I now always put my gear on in questionable terrain.  Sliding with no means of self arrest is something I am in no rush to ever live through again.  Scared the crap out of me!
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 05, 2013, 09:53:54 PM
Sorry for being ignorant, where the hell is Holt and Jaws?
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: JChepes on April 05, 2013, 10:03:16 PM
Holts ledge in Lyme NH.  Next to the Dartmouth Skiway.  Fun place with a good amount of ice.  Tradman's stomping grounds.  He can give you the full run down.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: JChepes on April 05, 2013, 10:06:04 PM
There's no ignorance in a question :)
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: JChepes on April 05, 2013, 10:09:38 PM
Took a nasty long fall off the top of the flake on "Flying Jib" with Dave Penny belaying. Thought the suffer fest was over...15' above a #2 Cam in the flexing creaking flake...saw the promised land about 6' above me...thought about placing one more piece but thought...how hard can it be...I will just fire for the bolt. Two moves up and the right foot slid out on moss and lichen and off I came. I watched all the pieces as I soared by them and heard the explosion of the #2 Cam levering and catching my fall. Dave said all he saw was a blur of flailing arms and legs followed by a cloud of stone dust and pebbles!! It was a good 25-30'r.
Hey Old School how is that climb?  Always looks tasty every time I look at it.  Crux is at the bolts?
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: Climber57r on April 05, 2013, 11:56:02 PM
Man the memories are back. Glad I got a new bike for this season. Scariest was on VMC direct about 25' into mid air with a cam pop under the first roof...apparently that jug in the corner is a sloper. Gave me the shakes for a while.. Taking a ride with a drill and hammer 25' or so was exciting. Darn calves get pumped...power drills are a great invention..mine just happened to catch fire on the first bolt hole..surprisingly got a refund..
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 06, 2013, 06:13:02 AM
some scary stuff here. the holts story is a good reminder that the approach to many ice climbs is a grade 2  ice climb up through the woods to the base of the actual climb.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 06, 2013, 09:05:00 PM
some scary stuff here. the holts story is a good reminder that the approach to many ice climbs is a grade 2  ice climb up through the woods to the base of the actual climb.

I remember throwing down my pack at the top of the first pitch of Crazy Diamond at Willoughby (can't remember why?). My friend Tom attempted to grab it. He missed.

I am not kidding- it tumbled all the way to the road.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: Admin Al on April 07, 2013, 07:38:47 AM
some scary stuff here. the holts story is a good reminder that the approach to many ice climbs is a grade 2  ice climb up through the woods to the base of the actual climb.

Yeah, there was that similar incident at Dracula this winter and another at the Monkey Wrench. It's a good thing to remember.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 08, 2013, 09:40:01 AM
Not the longest or most damaging but...

During the f/a of Clean Sweep on Cathedral. TC gets a couple bolts in and lowers, i go up and start the crux traverse almost to a stance and ..WHIP down and across the slab.. crack go the ribs from the swami belt knot. Along with a pretty big gasp from the tourists atop the Prow area.
Time for  beer break and we go up the cleaning line.. One person says " some woman is really upset about that fall. She thinks you died" So i go out to the parking and it's MY MOTHER !!!! Oh no.. she;s crying and hyperventilating and... Tc is like " No, he's fine"  No he;s dead, i know it"
of course mom gives a me a giant bear hug.. right across the ribs  AAAHHHH..... only time she ever watched me climb
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: mopowers on April 08, 2013, 10:07:10 AM
I have taken a few 25'-30' but only one i remember well. I have been lucky enough to get away with most of the stupid things i have done. On the FA of The Other One on Mt. Hor i took a big fall that required dental work afterwords. The first pitch is brutally hard. The crux is a very thin and steep slab, i could not figure out the sequence so i did not want to place any bolts. I decided to just hook past that section and work it out later on TR. Already above gear i headed up on several consecutive hook moves. Well, slab and hooking dont mix well and i eventually popped a hook, caught it in the mouth and took a big ride. My dentist is a real arm chair mountaineer, he scolded me and stated that i should never go climbing without a professional mountain guide.

My favorite whipper story is the guy who took two consecutive 80' on The Promenade. Apparently it was a full on upside down superman for 80'. He got right back on it and did it a second time. I  believe Alden got a sequence shot of the action that was published in Rock and Ice or Climbing.   
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: sneoh on April 08, 2013, 10:33:26 AM
A GREAT story, John!
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: dpen on April 08, 2013, 11:39:45 AM
Quote
Took a nasty long fall off the top of the flake on "Flying Jib" with Dave Penny belaying. Thought the suffer fest was over...15' above a #2 Cam in the flexing creaking flake...saw the promised land about 6' above me...thought about placing one more piece but thought...how hard can it be...I will just fire for the bolt. Two moves up and the right foot slid out on moss and lichen and off I came. I watched all the pieces as I soared by them and heard the explosion of the #2 Cam levering and catching my fall. Dave said all he saw was a blur of flailing arms and legs followed by a cloud of stone dust and pebbles!! It was a good 25-30'r.

Yeah buddy!   A big PFFF of dust!   Great climb though....
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: old_school on April 08, 2013, 02:14:02 PM
Quote
Took a nasty long fall off the top of the flake on "Flying Jib" with Dave Penny belaying. Thought the suffer fest was over...15' above a #2 Cam in the flexing creaking flake...saw the promised land about 6' above me...thought about placing one more piece but thought...how hard can it be...I will just fire for the bolt. Two moves up and the right foot slid out on moss and lichen and off I came. I watched all the pieces as I soared by them and heard the explosion of the #2 Cam levering and catching my fall. Dave said all he saw was a blur of flailing arms and legs followed by a cloud of stone dust and pebbles!! It was a good 25-30'r.

Yeah buddy!   A big PFFF of dust!   Great climb though....

Lol....that was a fun day!!   ;)
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on April 08, 2013, 04:46:19 PM
I have taken a few 25'-30' but only one i remember well. I have been lucky enough to get away with most of the stupid things i have done. On the FA of The Other One on Mt. Hor i took a big fall that required dental work afterwords. The first pitch is brutally hard. The crux is a very thin and steep slab, i could not figure out the sequence so i did not want to place any bolts. I decided to just hook past that section and work it out later on TR. Already above gear i headed up on several consecutive hook moves. Well, slab and hooking dont mix well and i eventually popped a hook, caught it in the mouth and took a big ride. My dentist is a real arm chair mountaineer, he scolded me and stated that i should never go climbing without a professional mountain guide.

My favorite whipper story is the guy who took two consecutive 80' on The Promenade. Apparently it was a full on upside down superman for 80'. He got right back on it and did it a second time. I  believe Alden got a sequence shot of the action that was published in Rock and Ice or Climbing.

80ft off Promenade is impressive.
Doing it again?
WTF?
If I ever took an 80ft fall while ice climbing, it's doubtful that I'd be able to muster up the sack to go back up the same day. That said, I'd damn sure have a plan the 2nd time around.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: Admin Al on April 08, 2013, 04:50:57 PM
WTF... how does someone let themselves get 40' out on an ice climb? and TWICE?????
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 08, 2013, 06:04:18 PM
The real funny thing is Alden hollers over from  Whoes Who. "This ain't Fckn Sport climbing!"
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 08, 2013, 06:19:48 PM
80' on rock is pretty bad,, only 2x... on ICE ? that's crazy.

Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: MT on April 08, 2013, 07:02:05 PM
 
[/quote]

If I ever took an 80ft fall while ice climbing, it's doubtful that I'd be able to muster up the sack to go back up the same day. That said, I'd damn sure have a plan the 2nd time around.
[/quote]

Thin line between a lot of "sack" and too little common sense  ;)
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 08, 2013, 07:14:46 PM
Here's my best one 'cause it fits the solo and whipper categories

Qiuncey Quarries  '87.. it had rained non stop for maybe 6 weeks, shit climbing, etc.. clear and 70, off i go to savage Direct a Qaurries 5.9 (10+)  Ihave done it maybe 20 times. up to the edges , pop for the 2 finger pocket and .. it's wet... i try the final move and OFF

grab the starting ledge enough to break a thumb and stay up right.. down maybe 30-35' and crash on the left leg.

Quick assessment.. no bones, lotsa blood and shock coming soon.. i'm the only one in the Quarries.

out by water ? quick- infection for sure,, climb back up the 4th classcorner ? well, not much choice.

igetto the cat,ofcoursea5speedandalocal says "you don't look so good"Hospital"fell climbing on rocks" 45mm puncturewound

Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: radair on April 15, 2013, 09:48:01 PM
Not really a "whipper", but I took an extreme fall while telemarking down Left Gully in Tuck's with Rob Adair.
I've had "life" flashes 3 times in my life. This flash was longer than I would've liked.

Midwinter, hard as a sidewalk.....I'm still to this day happy to be alive.
Ken, you must have said "no fall terrain" 10 times as we booted up that gully, then promptly blew the first turn. From that point you looked like a cartoon character, a big snowball with an occasional arm or leg sticking out. I wasn't sure what I was going to find at the bottom. It was quite a relief to find you upright. That was a sight I won't forget.

The first time I ever used crampons was in Tucks in 1980. The snow was perfect neve and there had been a big wet snow avalanche out of the center of the bowl, which had refrozen. My friend & I cramponed about 3/4 of the way up headwall on snow and traversed into the iced up scar from the right side, then climbed a short water ice bulge (with one 70 cm axe) to a ledge. We turned around to a shitload of exposure and I said to him, "now show me how we get down". He starts crabbing his way down while facing out and immediately his feet skate out from under him and he is flying down that ice; flipping and tumbling. I thought, this guy is dead, when he suddenly does a backflip, lands flat on his back and stops. I thought to myself, I'm not going to do it that way. I faced in and welded that axe on every placement, got back on the snow and hiked down around the gash. He had a huge orange in his pack the size of a grapefruit that was completely flattened. That's another little movie clip in my head that I'll always have to watch again..

I never really took any long whippers - too scared to let gravity take over. Either that or I blocked 'em all out.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on April 15, 2013, 09:51:01 PM
The last time i used crampons was to approach a crag in Crawford notch... needed.  leaf crampons
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: pappy on September 02, 2013, 09:45:59 AM
Dunno if it will register up here, but Lee Carter passed on 8/25. Strand might know him, or at least the name, Lee was right up until he died one of the old time NC hard men, with hundreds of FAs scattered across secret crags throughout the south. I only got to climb with him a couple of times, the last about seven years ago when I took Lee, Tom McMillan, Kenny, and the rest of the reprobate crew to Reel Cove for the weekend, Reel being a cliff line in the Sequatchie (TN) that a small crew of us got to feast on for several years, ~95% as good, and even more extensive, than T-Wall, and we had it all to ourselves. It was the kind of shit these guys lived for. I mention this because there were seven of us and three (Lee, Curt Johnson--Dirtneye for those of you who lurk on SuperTaco--and Jim Okel, another old time southern bad ass) are now dead, which is pretty distressing. We're not that old.

I'm putting this in this thread because the memorials reminded me of one of THE great falls ever, one that by definition almost can't be surpassed, courtesy of Mr. Carter. He was leading 'Free Man in Paris' at Looking Glass, perhaps the quintessential Rotert death route. The crux pitch is solid 5.10 with zero gear. Lee managed to place an SMC(!) cam ten feet off the belay and then ran it out, and according to John Crofts, the belayer, and eye witnesses, he had just about reached the end of the rope when he fell, for a solid 300 footer down 80 degree granite, on a swami belt. He not only lived, but managed (with assistance) to walk out and once at the car insisted on some herbal medication to assist with coping with the drive to the Brevard ER, a therapy that Crofts considered contra indicated for a possible punctured lung (it was), but, what the hell, Lee was a climber. I don't know what got him yet, all they say is a 'short illness', but obviously on the rock he was basically an immortal. Free Man has forever since been renamed as 'Dead Man in Pisgah'. It doesn't get repeated. RIP Lee.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: strandman on September 02, 2013, 11:45:08 AM
I knew of lee, never met him..too bad .
dead man was described to me  By Rotert..through those mirro lense shade and shit eating grin  'it's pretty run out"
he didn't use that term very often
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: kenreville on September 02, 2013, 03:53:57 PM
pappy- great story. A true fall factor of two. Yowser.... :o

Wish I'd met Lee. Godspeed good man.

Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: carp on September 03, 2013, 08:38:39 PM
No good falls on rock, but I took a big one my first ice season.

I was climbing the lower portion of Central on Webster and we hadn't roped up yet. We we heading to the Green Chasm. I snagged a crampon on my pants leg and went for about 250 feet before I stopped. Mountain Rescue had to come get me.

Looking back I had a lot more fitness than experience. I got lucky enough to learn from it. It takes a lot longer to learn to climb ice than rock.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: plytheman on September 20, 2013, 11:19:08 AM
So not my whipper but I just bore witness to this and, being fairly new to climbing, figured I'd ask the experienced opinions of this forum.  The short story is I was belaying my friend up Thriller Arete and he had one cam placed on the southern face just above the trail and a second on the face right over the ledge.  He was maybe one to two feet to the left of his second cam and maybe four or five feet up when he got stuck and was feeling pretty pumped.  He told me to take, so I took as much as I could without pulling him off, and he warned me he was going to hop down.  When he did his 2nd cam blew out and he bounced off the ledge and swung down to the trail below.

I'm not too sure exactly how things went in the second or so it happened but I felt the pull on the rope and hopped forward and down from the rock I was belaying on towards the trail and the crag.  The last I really remember seeing was him hitting the ledge as I was going forward.  In the end his first cam held, I was hanging a few inches off the ground, and he swung back in towards me so the rope at least kept him from hitting the ground full force.  Thankfully the worst he came off with was a sore butt cheek and a stiff neck.

Looking back at it the grade was definitely above what he'd led before and he thinks that he swung too much on the shallow cam rather than falling straight on it causing it to pivot and blow.  I can't really speak to what was going on on his end of the line but as a belayer was there more I should have done?  I was maybe 6 or so feet back from the rock so I probably could have been a bit closer in, but I didn't know if I maybe hopped a little earlier to soften the catch the second cam wouldn't have been so likely to pop?

Like I said, I've only gotten into climbing this summer and, being the first serious lead fall I've caught, I was wondering how better to handle it next time. 
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: darwined on September 20, 2013, 09:12:22 PM
Cams shouldn't be blowing because the leader needs to take a hang.  That was shitty gear.  Ask your buddy if he plans on falling on gear that won't hold body weight.  If he says yes, find a new partner.  Not sure if there's anything you could've done differently.  At least he didn't crater. 
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: pappy on September 20, 2013, 10:23:31 PM
If the cam was bad--which it obviously was--there's nothing you could have done to make it "better" and hold. One of the things that pisses me off is the attitude of so many newer climbers who think cams are automatically bomber. They are not. Lowe did a study sometime in the '80s of all the cams on the market (granted, that was basically Friends, their own stuff, maybe metolius, and a variety of weird stuff like Bivos, but the principle holds) and concluded that in less than optimum placements they would blow up to 50% of the time. I have actually had a good friend (and one of the best rock climbers I've ever known) deck and break his arm while I was belaying when his Friend pivoted and blew after it had already held a previous fall.

In another thread around here someone mentioned running into a kid demonstrating a nut pulling out of a placement and proclaiming that therefore cams were better than nuts. This kid should be bitch slapped silly. A bomber nut is always better than a cam. Always. In fact, I contend that a bomber nut is generally better than a bolt, because you know the history of the piece and the quality of the placement, because it's yours and you placed it--neither of which is true with the bolt--and in both cases the piece is basically as good as the rock. Granted, a half inch glue in may be able to hold a falling truck that would rip the cable on a #5 rock, but I don't plan on falling in a truck. That extra strength may give a climber a greater feeling of security, but that is an emotional rather than a rational reaction and has no practical meaning vs. the bomber nut in the real world.

Off the soapbox.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: tradmanclimbz on September 21, 2013, 07:23:45 AM
I have been known to proclaim that " you could hang a keg off that one" after placeing a bomber nut though I do not go with absolutes all the time. That's a repuglican thing :-* there are times when  cams are better than nuts depending on direction of pull and rock style. that being said i will take a good  #5 rock any day 8)
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: SA on September 21, 2013, 07:29:32 AM
Pappy,


+11111111
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: lucky luke on September 21, 2013, 12:50:41 PM
One of the things that pisses me off is the attitude of so many newer climbers who think cams are automatically bomber. They are not. [...]
In another thread around here someone mentioned running into a kid demonstrating a nut pulling out of a placement and proclaiming that therefore cams were better than nuts. This kid should be bitch slapped silly. A bomber nut is always better than a cam. Always. In fact, I contend that a bomber nut is generally better than a bolt, because you know the history of the piece and the quality of the placement, because it's yours and you placed it--neither of which is true with the bolt--and in both cases the piece is basically as good as the rock.

I asked an engineer who test metal on bridge for the solidity if there is a way to know if a bolt is good or not, and he said that there is no way to test it in the field. As the nut and the bolt are both in metal, there is no way to test any of them. For the nut, we will agree that the wedge effect, dispersion of a downward pull in an horizontal one, is the principle which keep the nut safe. For a bolt, the principle is more like an ice screw: the front part will hold a force downward and the bottom part will hold a force upward. Futher more, the hanger, where we attach the bolt, is like a boot belay on ice...it make the front part bigger. So, we can test the position of a bolt as well as the position of a stopper. (The glue is more to avoid that the bolt make a groove in the rock after multiple fall.)

As a bolt is make to hold 24 KN, it most be a little bit stronger than the stopper, but as a fall is always less than 11 Kn with the new rope, it is not very important. and I agree with Papy that it is more fun to place gear than to clip a bolt in an ethic of trad climbing.

Where is the place of bolt in trad. As we know that in sport bolt are use to avoid the danger of a long whipper, and any nuts or cam placement to make harder move, in trad, gear placement is part of the game. Route finding and strategy to accept longer safe fall and avoid shorter dangerous one is part of the game. As nothing protection exist, like on a slab, and you have to make them, the bolt most be place, in trad, to avoid an injury when you take a fall.

Than, the finest whipper most not be the longuest, but also the more dangerous.   

 
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: DLottmann on September 21, 2013, 01:46:36 PM
...
I'm not too sure exactly how things went in the second or so it happened but I felt the pull on the rope and hopped forward and down from the rock I was belaying on towards the trail and the crag.  The last I really remember seeing was him hitting the ledge as I was going forward.  In the end his first cam held, I was hanging a few inches off the ground, and he swung back in towards me so the rope at least kept him from hitting the ground full force. ...

as a belayer was there more I should have done?  I was maybe 6 or so feet back from the rock so I probably could have been a bit closer in, but I didn't know if I maybe hopped a little earlier to soften the catch the second cam wouldn't have been so likely to pop?

Sounds like you may have been to far back from the rock... ideally you would be almost directly under the 1st piece of gear, but out of the fall line... if you were sitting on that comfy rock across the trail with a great view of the climb and he placed a piece down low on the route you could have a 60 degree angle there that will rip you off your seat and lengthen the leaders fall... I see this a lot at Rumney.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: sneoh on September 21, 2013, 06:55:49 PM

.... ideally you would be almost directly under the 1st piece of gear, but out of the fall line...
YES!  Well said.  So hard to get more people to do this these days.
Sport or trad, I get into this position as soon as I detect any sketch or hesitation on the part of the leader.  And as often as I can if the leader is out of sight.  It is often easier to hear an out of sight leader if I stand a little back from the rock. 
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: DLottmann on September 21, 2013, 10:51:48 PM
It's a shame this isn't more well known... Climbing Gyms should teach more than how to clip into a ground anchor IMO.
Title: Re: Your Finest Whipper
Post by: plytheman on September 25, 2013, 02:48:43 PM
Thanks for the advice, everyone.  I usually try not to put too much space between myself and the wall when I belay but I'll make it a point now to get right up next to it.  As for cam placements I'll definitely keep what's been mentioned in mind as I start learning to place gear myself, including getting some solid nut placements along with cams.  If nothing else I have a few different people I've been climbing with and so I've had a small variety of examples of what to do and what not to do from them.