NEClimbs.com forum

General => General Climbing => Topic started by: Martin on April 26, 2010, 11:34:59 am

Title: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: Martin on April 26, 2010, 11:34:59 am
Hello,
So relative newbie question.  I used to climb consistently but recently I got addicted to Surfing and it has monopolized my time, leaving me with the finger strength and forearm endurance of an average relatively new climber.  I do however still love an aesthetically beautiful line and I crave fun techy movement, just don't have the arsenal to climb 5.11+ at the moment.  Does anyone recommend a good 5.8-5.10 climb and crag near MA? I know I could find this at Rumney but the idea of driving 5+ hours round trip to pump out in 3 goes is not appealing.

Thanks in advance. 

PS.  If anyone wants to go / get into surfing hit me up.  It is pretty great.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: Climber57r on April 26, 2010, 12:56:49 pm
There is Quincy Quarries...never been there...could be my NH mentality of any place nearest Boston...however Crow Hill near Leominster has some nice lines to offer...as well as Red Rocks off exit 14 of 128 in Gloucester. Den Rock also offers some sharp/short Top Rope/Boulder problems...however the recent glass piles from peoples windows being smashed in is a turn off...then PWay has a bunch as well. The gate s/b open by next week..usually 1st -2nd week in May. Otherwise hike in from the farm. Good luck.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: frik on April 26, 2010, 02:02:50 pm
Definately Crow hill. Especially in the 5.9 - 5.10 range. Some of the 5.8's are 5.9 too.
It's been a long time, but this is a trad area.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: Biker1 on April 26, 2010, 05:07:29 pm
Martin,
Where do you usually surf?  I live up in Maine and surf quite a bit. 
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: oldmansmith on April 26, 2010, 06:27:37 pm
Double Helix is a great 5.9 dihedral at Rose Ledge.
Yosemite Crack is a great 5.9 corner/crack at Farley
Eye Opener 5.9- is bolted at Farley
Air Blast 5.9 bolted at Farley

I would start with those four for best 9's in Massachusetts.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: strandman on April 26, 2010, 07:15:28 pm
Farley/Rose/ Crow for leading. If you are near boston though the Quarries will get you set up with maybe 80 routes 5.8- 5.10 Tr's
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: OldEric on April 27, 2010, 10:24:11 am
What Ward said about Rose and Farley and what John said about Crow.  At Crow specifically try Fool on The Hill (epitomy of thin face) and Intertwine and Diagonal.  Bot only rated 5.8 but nice cracks.  Diagonal actiually gets 8+ - hee hee. :)
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: DGoguen on April 27, 2010, 10:27:45 am
At Crow Hill
Diagonal, Tarzan and Thin Line are 8's with a definite 9 feeling onsight. But excellent.
Fool on a Hill is a beautiful 5.9 face climb.
The classic ten would be Crowmagnon Crack for sure. Excellent gear once you get high enough off the ground to break your legs.
You could stick clip the first piece over the cave but a good spotter feels fine.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: shakinbaiken on April 27, 2010, 10:31:20 am
Rose and Farley, where are they?

Crow hill is great to get back into the swing of things, espically on tarzan. Drop me a line if you want to go climbing out that way. i live in boston and have climbed there a couple times. 
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: strandman on April 27, 2010, 10:46:04 am
I know PWAY has some great bouldering too, but I always liked Lincoln Woods. If you want to do a TON of V0-V2, LW has dozens of problems and is only an hour  away.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: om on April 30, 2010, 10:41:41 pm
... Diagonal actiually gets 8+ - hee hee. :)

No, don't try Diagonal. It's hard and can be dangerous to lead... Gee, Eric, didn't know you so evil  ;)
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: AntinJ on May 04, 2010, 03:04:21 pm
Double Helix is a great 5.9 dihedral at Rose Ledge.
Yosemite Crack is a great 5.9 corner/crack at Farley
Eye Opener 5.9- is bolted at Farley
Air Blast 5.9 bolted at Farley

I would start with those four for best 9's in Massachusetts.


Completely Agree!
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: cjdrover on May 11, 2010, 08:15:01 am
...Diagonal. It's hard ...

+1

I'd say go for it though... it's not that dangerous.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: Dave on May 11, 2010, 01:17:37 pm
There is Quincy Quarries...never been there...could be my NH mentality of any place nearest Boston...however Crow Hill near Leominster has some nice lines to offer...as well as Red Rocks off exit 14 of 128 in Gloucester. Den Rock also offers some sharp/short Top Rope/Boulder problems...however the recent glass piles from peoples windows being smashed in is a turn off...then PWay has a bunch as well. The gate s/b open by next week..usually 1st -2nd week in May. Otherwise hike in from the farm. Good luck.

It has been a while since you were at Den Rock. It is all cleaned up and there are bolted TR anchors. All you need are a couple of slings and a few locking biners and you can set up everything there in seconds.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: strandman on May 11, 2010, 06:26:53 pm
Except that den rocks kinda sucks
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: Dave on May 12, 2010, 12:07:45 pm
Except that den rocks kinda sucks

I would tend to agree but it is much better now than it used to be.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: strandman on May 12, 2010, 07:46:15 pm
SHIT ! I hope so
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: DaveR on October 29, 2013, 01:06:55 pm
Except that den rocks kinda sucks

Much more fun and user friendly since someone cleaned the glass and it was bolted. 2 slings and 2 biners will set up everything.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: carp on October 29, 2013, 09:44:31 pm
The New Durham area stuff is great and not too far from Bahston.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: pappy on October 30, 2013, 08:13:14 am
Double Helix is 5.9? Yikes, if that's the climb I'm thinking of (we never knew the names), I soloed that 30 years ago, never would have done that if I knew it was 5.9.
Of course, I did have it totally wired.
Title: Re: Best Massachusetts 5.9s?
Post by: JChepes on October 30, 2013, 09:57:56 pm
Mormon hollow and the sunbowl have a good bunch of moderates also.  One more traddy and the other sporty.  Original sin and Pulchritudinous Panda direct are two good lines at mormon in the 5.9+ range.  Don't forget to hit up Bub's barbecue on your way out.  BBC steel rail on tap!