General => General Climbing => Topic started by: lucky luke on April 05, 2013, 02:28:09 pm

Title: where you didn't want to fall?
Post by: lucky luke on April 05, 2013, 02:28:09 pm
It is neither a whipper, neither a close call. It is a place where your was very confident and when you look back at your rope/partner, you think: if I fall here, it is going to hurt!

Mine is a pillar near la pomme d'or in quebec. You climb a "R" first pitch to a kind of belay, climb over a tree (best protection to a pillar. It was a knife shape pillar, about three feet wide, ten inches thick and thirty feet hight, standing on a kind of ledge about one foot from the cliff. I had to climb using it as a counterbalance. I can't sling it because in a fall I can bring it with me and it is always better to fall alone. So, I solo thirty feet and finally found some thing descent before traversing to easier ground. Not a place to fall or to push to hard on the pillar as my partner, out of the danger zone was bellow 
Title: Re: where you didn't want to fall?
Post by: pappy on April 05, 2013, 06:40:25 pm
This is easy, although I might have told this one before. The old tend to repeat themselves. We had put up the first three pitches of Skyhedral, and at the top of P3, end of the day, Doc and I survey P4, the last pitch, and agree it is probably trivial. Doc was real anti-bolt, and we didn't have the time to drill anyway--only hand drilling in NC y'know--so we put the rap anchor into this rounded, shallow, horizontal thing that didn't really qualify as a crack, but it did take a pretty decent baby angle and we beat a .5 tri-cam and #1 hex in beside it that were a lot less promising, but overall it's adequate.

Mark and I are up the next weekend to finish it off; Doc can't be bothered and starts a new route to the right. We get to the rap anchor and, without even thinking too much about it, clip into it for the belay, probably because we were figuring the last pitch was 5.6 anyway. Stupidity, hubris, I don't know. Laziness for sure, since just a few feet below is a good stance at the top of the skyhedral with a crack under an overlap that would have taken a dozen bomber medium cams. I start out and I'm climbing for shit, I can tell because it feels a lot harder than it looks like it should be. The move is obvious, mantling up on a small sloping ledge about 10' up, but there's no gear between it and the anchor, and I futz about and finally push into it, and I'm teetering right at the edge, trying to scunch my right toe higher and with each lurch a puff of wind could blow me off, no way to reverse now without falling, when in a moment of absolute clarity I knew that if I fell not only would I hit Mark, but we would both load that anchor straight out, it would pull, and we were going 300' to the ground. And all the insecurity disappeared, in fact all thinking ceased, just a total focus on finishing that mantle. I think the consensus for that move settled at 10c/d, turned out to be the crux of the whole route. Who knew. Ordner dropped in a couple of 10mm bolts there later and I growled about chopping retro bolts, cause intelligent people could belay from the lower stance, but my heart wasn't in it.
Title: Re: where you didn't want to fall?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 05, 2013, 09:21:56 pm
Most of the ice climbs that we do but certainly The black dike in lean condition and Ragnarock.  A few of the slab climbs on rogers rock and whitehorse..  anything with a ledge or groundfall. All my solo circuits rock and ice...   I do not really like to fall all that much. I would rather climb.
Title: Re: where you didn't want to fall?
Post by: kenreville on April 05, 2013, 09:51:27 pm
Not for nothing Luke, I never want to fall. I do understand what you're saying- it's just that there are so many circumstances while climbing rock/ice, skiing extreme, hell even paragliding, where I really don't wanna "blow the clip" so to speak......
And, as Tradman said, one never wants to fall when climbing unroped solo.
Title: Re: where you didn't want to fall?
Post by: lucky luke on April 06, 2013, 10:38:59 am
finest solo: when things go well need a lot of climbing knowledge

finest whimper: when things go wrong, and you fall, need good protection (bolt is the easiest way)

in the middle: when things go wrong, and you don't fall, need a lot of safety knowledge

I thought it was the trilogy, if we taught that a close call was more an imprevisible situation, we have a trilogy. The story of papy is interesting for that reason. making a rap in hard situation, bringing different kind of nuts, knowledge of the danger (he was soloing and bring his partner with him), attitude in a dangerous situation (one of my favorite, or knowledge of his reaction in extreme stress, some people will froze and will stay there, there is six "anormal reaction" in situation of stress), climbing technique, evaluation of climbing down

the thing which went wrong is because he underestimated the strenght of the pitch. He taught at an easy 5.6 and it was not. He describe why he make the mistake and the solution of it after his mistake.

this is very interesting