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General => Rock Climbing: Sport => Topic started by: freshie on August 01, 2007, 04:13:19 PM

Title: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: freshie on August 01, 2007, 04:13:19 PM
I am heading to Rumney tomorrow morning and was wondering if any can tell me where I can buy a copy of the Ward Smith guidebook in or around Rumney?

Thanks.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: crazyt on August 01, 2007, 07:06:58 PM
at the village store
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on August 01, 2007, 08:16:48 PM
they are out of print, the calm post had some not sure if they are sold out or not....
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: handjammer on August 01, 2007, 08:52:17 PM
We are all patiently waiting as Ward puts the finishing touches on his new book.  Busy man, you know ... so if you find an old one (current), keep it for old times sake!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: rockjim on September 05, 2007, 08:05:01 AM
Does anyone have any updated info on when the new Rumney Guide book might be coming out?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on September 05, 2007, 08:54:01 AM
Hi all,

we are planning on a spring release for the new guide, I dropped a few extra guides a plymouth ski and the Calm post earlier in the summer, but I understand that theuy sold out in about a week.

Cheers,

Bob
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: handjammer on September 05, 2007, 05:00:16 PM
Thanks for the heads up, even though it is disappointing, but understandable.  A lot of work has to be done and I'm sure it will be worth the wait.

Alan
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on September 05, 2007, 05:18:13 PM
A lot of the delay is because we are waiting for the Forest Service to get their plan out and to get a final layout of the trail system. (Other than Ward being so incredibly damn lazy, of course  ;))
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: slink on September 06, 2007, 10:01:50 AM
 Mark;
 I heard that the delay was that you were putting up so many new routes that he did not want to publish an obsolete guide book(lol) ;D
 Jim
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: slink on March 26, 2008, 11:06:10 AM
 How is the new Rumney guide book coming???Will it be out this spring?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on March 26, 2008, 09:07:39 PM
Don't hold me to it but I think we'll try to get the book out late spring early summer...no hard dates yet but progress is being made!

bob
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: lanserx on May 26, 2008, 11:48:20 AM
Any update on the release date Bob?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on May 27, 2008, 10:18:06 PM
Nothing new, still in progress,

not to worry I'll let everyone know when were close...

Cheers,

Bob
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on May 28, 2008, 10:07:17 AM
Nothing new, still in progress,

not to worry I'll let everyone know when were close...

Bob - PM me with info about advertising/sponsorship when the time comes.

--al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on May 28, 2008, 12:37:04 PM
Ward told me he had a little misshap with his computer, so it got delayed a little while he re-enters some stuff. he is working hard on it though, so it shouldn't be too much longer
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Stéphane on July 17, 2008, 01:43:04 PM
Hi everyone !

I'm planning to go to Rumney for the first time next month. I was wondering if the new guidebook had finally been released ?  Or is there any chance I can get a copy of the old one at the village store in Rumney ? 

Thanks

Stéphane


Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on July 21, 2008, 04:45:35 PM
no new book yet. Sorry stephane. The old ones may be hard to find, but u should be able to get around with the info at the kiosk and also some route descriptions found on http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/105867829 (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/105867829)
 and
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/New_Hampshire/Grafton_County/Rumney (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/New_Hampshire/Grafton_County/Rumney)

There are many walking guidebooks there too ;)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: ctboulder on August 19, 2008, 02:10:21 PM
Ok, its now the middle of August, I heard there were some issues with state lines of certain hiking trails in the area that is keeping the publishing held up. Is there any chance we can get a firm date on when that might be resolved?  :-[
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: KB on August 19, 2008, 07:59:12 PM
I was at Rumney on Sunday and overheard someone say that they don't sell it anymore because the writer was afraid of the liability he may face if someone was to get hurt and blame it on something in his book.  What is this world coming to?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on August 19, 2008, 10:01:41 PM
I was at Rumney on Sunday and overheard someone say that they don't sell it anymore because the writer was afraid of the liability he may face if someone was to get hurt and blame it on something in his book.  What is this world coming to?

uhh..no.    The old edition is out of print because the new one is coming out.... at some point.   That said.. if you don't know the routes you're getting on then make sure it's correct because there are tons of new lines since the old book and you could find yourself on something harder.  It's easy to spot the people counting from the left (usually at the meadows)  and i'm like uhh what are you actually looking for  and they are usually off by a route or 2.

I talked to Ward a few weeks ago and said he was working on the picture lay outs.. so there is progress going on.   Go Ward Go!  Allezzzzz! 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: KB on August 20, 2008, 11:57:38 AM
I'm happy to know that what I heard was false.  Maybe it was a different book they were talking about.  Or....they just don't know what they are talking about.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on August 20, 2008, 06:16:09 PM
I was at Rumney on Sunday and overheard someone say that they don't sell it anymore because the writer was afraid of the liability he may face if someone was to get hurt and blame it on something in his book.  What is this world coming to?

That's nuts. He's working on it. Personally, I hope he takes a while.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: bsfulton on August 20, 2008, 07:44:42 PM
Or....they just don't know what they are talking about.

someone spewing cliffside bs?

I find that hard to believe ;)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Buzzsaw on August 20, 2008, 09:40:37 PM
No more grid bolting please, you've done way to much already.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on August 21, 2008, 07:57:57 AM
There is actually a new route moratorium on most of the cliffs, including meadows/parking lot wall, new wave, kennel/pulse,5.8 Crag, Monsters, Bonsai, Jimmy Cliff, and Crow's Nest.   The RCA and Forest Service agreed on this during our meetings on the management Plan (it was actually suggested by the RCA, and the FS was happy about that as they didn't want to be the ones curtailing new routes).  So no more "grid bolting" on those cliffs at least.

Ward
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on August 21, 2008, 09:26:29 AM
There is actually a new route moratorium on most of the cliffs, including meadows/parking lot wall, new wave, kennel/pulse,5.8 Crag, Monsters, Bonsai, Jimmy Cliff, and Crow's Nest.   The RCA and Forest Service agreed on this during our meetings on the management Plan (it was actually suggested by the RCA, and the FS was happy about that as they didn't want to be the ones curtailing new routes).  So no more "grid bolting" on those cliffs at least.

Ward
and I voted for it, by the way, Buzz....... hmmm, now a nice 10 pitch sport route up the middle of Cannon, after lots of trundling of course...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Buzzsaw on August 21, 2008, 08:44:04 PM
Dude, I think thats a great idea. I know just the spot and I'll supply the beer.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on August 21, 2008, 09:05:37 PM
I know just the spot and I'll supply the beer.

LOL   ;D

--al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: tradmanclimbz on August 21, 2008, 09:36:35 PM
Sounds awsome as long as it is not harder than 10b/c Rumny rateing ;D
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: youpeopleareidiots on September 02, 2008, 12:37:21 PM
No more grid bolting please, you've done way to much already.

to John Sykes:

That is your name, n'est pas?

It is humourous that you  complane about gird bolting at rumney, as you have singlemindedly bein responsibble for ruiningvmore white mountain climbing areas than anyone I know.

frist of all, the last pitch of Weissners is the AU CHEVAL flake.  It is French for 'like a horse'.  People who by your gudebook are stupider for theyre efforts.

Yowr route names are idiotic,    .  climbs should have thought pro voking names, not books that refferince inside jokes like yours.  I have botten  climbing guides on three continents that are intelligent.  Your book is nothing but an ego stroke.

I began climming on Cannon in the mid 1950s, and I can honestley say that yor routes are scweezejob chikkenshit. 

Louis Vontain, Que.

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: slink on September 02, 2008, 12:51:04 PM
robbovius stop being a troll!!!!!!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JBro on September 02, 2008, 02:03:42 PM
Quote
frist of all, the last pitch of Weissners is the AU CHEVAL flake.  It is French for 'like a horse'.  People who by your gudebook are stupider for theyre efforts.

Syko is strong - he prolly does that flake as a layback. None of that wimpy french technique.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: frik on September 02, 2008, 02:05:34 PM
I thought there already was a sport route bolted top to bottom up the middle of cannon cliff.
And isn't "bolted sport" route redundant?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on September 02, 2008, 04:41:09 PM
robbovius stop being a troll!!!!!!

that's not who it is/was

--al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Buzzsaw on September 02, 2008, 09:25:19 PM
We ello Louie, If ou ave been climbing on da Cannon since da 1950s den it is quite likely ou are so old that ou are adled in da mind. Me publisher is a, how ou say responsible for da Au Cheval mistake. Unfortunatly me cannot blame him for your, how ou say small penis syndrome. signed, confused old fart. P.S. Meet me in the climbers parking lot for some horse back riding lessons. I really mean it old friend. Syko 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: smartpig on September 02, 2008, 10:36:03 PM
Horse Shit!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: tradmanclimbz on September 03, 2008, 07:25:00 AM
For the record, I like the guide despite the fact that I will have to resist calling John "The Author" If I ever meet him ;)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Buzzsaw on September 03, 2008, 10:10:43 PM
I learned the hard way the first time I wrote that book. Don't ever let the publisher and his computer person be in charge of editing or you end up with the author,the author,the author. I plan on with the help of many friends, in particular Jamie Cunningham to publish the next one ourselves. The Author 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on October 23, 2008, 03:00:45 PM
Just found this thread after a long afternoon of searching for a copy of the first edition. ive been out of climbing for a while and didnt realize there was a second edition in the works. any word on a release date? ive borrowed a friends first edition for whats left of this season but it would be nice to have something to page through this winter and amp me up for next year. any info would be great. thanks.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Shouldah on October 23, 2008, 04:51:56 PM
aye, the white whale
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on October 23, 2008, 07:25:45 PM
spring,   Seriously, this spring....
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: acatta on October 23, 2008, 07:39:03 PM
Bob, by then you will have lost my slides!!!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on October 23, 2008, 07:42:50 PM
what is it that's holding this thing up? is it design, layout, information...what?  is it something that others can help with? I do book layout & design & it's not all that hard once you have the info & a layout template.

--al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on October 23, 2008, 07:55:24 PM
I know everyones chaffing at the bit the good news is that it is nearly done.

Didn't want to rush it this fall, We are working on advertising, photo's and info and have made the decision to take the time to proof it, again and again. try to get everything right, produce a guide that is not only accuarate but a good product, much like the last one, and release it in the spring!

Hang in there, it's coming

Bob

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Jeff on October 24, 2008, 06:48:59 PM
Louis: it seems strange for me to correct a French speaker, but here goes. In France the technique of straddling an arête or a flake is usually stated as à cheval, meaning "on a horse" (hence straddling)! Climbing the "silly flake" at the end of the Lakeview and Weissner routes on Cannon often resembles a technique which French guidebooks sometimes term "plaisir des demoiselles", although demanding a good deal of the old English "thrutch" as well. Respectfully submitted, etc.etc. and so forth---Jeff Lea
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Buzzsaw on October 24, 2008, 07:56:38 PM
Are you for real dude. Nothing like flogging a dead horse.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on October 27, 2008, 09:45:44 AM
Thanks for the info. Im patient enough to wait if its a better product because of it. Keep up the good work!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on January 08, 2009, 08:51:05 AM
ok..... patience waining...... think this thing will be done by March, April or even May????  Not trying to be a pest, just looking for some updates if anyones got them.

Thank You!!!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Dave on January 08, 2009, 10:19:51 AM
Last time I spoke with Ward the book was done and he was waiting for the GD Forest Circus to finalize the use plan for Rumney so it can be put in the book. I will give Ward a call sometime today and speak with him and post an update. Dave R.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Dave on January 08, 2009, 11:23:06 AM
Just spoke with Ward, he is hoping it will be out by spring. He is waiting on some things out of his control. Dave R.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on January 08, 2009, 12:26:35 PM
Awesome. Thanks man. Really appreciate it.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: rbirk on March 13, 2009, 06:27:24 PM
Any updates? Spring is just around the corner :)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on April 28, 2009, 10:55:06 AM
I heard a rumor that it's heading to print within the next 4 weeks possibly. Any truth to this? If so, who is publishing it? I hope its Wolverine! Any info would be cool, thanks.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jammer on April 28, 2009, 03:33:30 PM
Is it possible to pre-order?  I'm sure they will be off the shelf real fast ...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on April 28, 2009, 05:08:08 PM
I used to envy Paul Ross becasue he was "the man" and wrote the guidebook to Cathedral, all 20 routes!   Be careful of what you wish for! 

No details, but it is going to be sooner rather than later.  No way to pre-order, but when they are out I will be in Rumney and will make sure that the country store and calm post have them. There is going to be an old guy like me on the cover, Ted Hammond on Flyin' Hawaiin by Anne Skidmore.

Ward

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jammer on April 28, 2009, 09:36:17 PM
Sweet Ward!  Do we get a heads up so we can be first in line?  Any signed copies??
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dahinton on May 27, 2009, 09:54:40 AM
Hey Ward thanks for keeping everyone in the loop.  Is there an ETA around the corner as to when the guide will be in stores?

Dave.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on May 27, 2009, 09:59:26 PM
I heard they already sold out last weekend except 3 copies that he is going to auction off to the highest bidder at the next RCA meeting. I'm looking through my copy now. Ward really outdid himself. it is sweet




















 ;)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dahinton on May 27, 2009, 11:12:22 PM
Sweet..... neeeew guidebook!  Will we be able to buy it online anytime soon?  Ohhh btw who published it?

Dave.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on May 28, 2009, 01:18:25 AM
Sweet..... neeeew guidebook!  Will we be able to buy it online anytime soon?  Ohhh btw who published it?

Dave.

hook,  line,  sinker.   

mark  fishing with dynamite really isn't fair  you know..   
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: OldEric on May 28, 2009, 10:36:36 AM
hook,  line,  sinker.   

mark  fishing with dynamite really isn't fair  you know..   

Mr. Subtle - that's how he gets all the girls.  MS - AKA Marco Suave...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on May 29, 2009, 11:40:53 AM
Close, Eric. The name is Fabio, from when I had long hair  :D
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jerimy on June 03, 2009, 10:50:59 AM
Any idea of when there will be more in stock?  Planning on going up this weekend and would like to pick up a copy.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 03, 2009, 11:08:39 AM
I was joking. It still hadn't come out yet last I knew. Hopefully very soon
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JBro on June 03, 2009, 11:17:30 AM
I'm igorant of Rumney happenings (among vast amounts of other things for that matter) but why is there such a clamor for a new guidebook? Are there really that many new routes since the last one was published? The last one isn't that old is it?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 03, 2009, 11:24:09 AM
new routes, new crags, and new trails
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on June 03, 2009, 11:46:03 AM
old one was published 2001..   so..   lots of changes since.  That one has been out of print for at least 2 years now?   so  much of the noise is that people want  A  guidebook  and cannot find one.    The  alternatives  in compilation books are not very good
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JBro on June 03, 2009, 12:50:00 PM
Wow, 2001.. I bought the last one when it first came out and I would have sworn it was only 3 or 4 years ago.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on June 03, 2009, 01:44:21 PM
Time flies..    i started sport climbing in like '02  so it's been a while.  i have tons of routes written in mostly thanks to info from Mark and DQ  posting or emailing me back when i go "wtf is that thing?" 

go to the meadows on a saturday morning and watch someone try to find a route with the "Climbing New England" falcon guide lol   
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 03, 2009, 03:09:45 PM
Jake, do you have the first edition or the second? I misplaced my copies so I cant check on them, but i think the second one was after 2001. The second had Predator on the cover. I think Paula King was on the first.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jammer on June 03, 2009, 03:25:45 PM
Jake, do you have the first edition or the second? I misplaced my copies so I cant check on them, but i think the second one was after 2001. The second had Predator on the cover. I think Paula King was on the first.
The one with Predator on the cover is dated 2001.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jerimy on June 03, 2009, 03:35:28 PM
Thanks for the update.  I have found online book stores with an availability date of 7/1 for the 2009 edition.  Was just hoping that it would be available locally earlier.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on June 03, 2009, 03:52:07 PM
The one with Predator on the cover is dated 2001.

That's the one i have too..  the jam man is correct. 
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31H6BQ72ZKL._SL500_AA200_.jpg)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on June 03, 2009, 03:58:55 PM
where did you see it online?  not even google found it for me... 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 03, 2009, 04:11:10 PM
Wow! Time does fly :o :'(
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jerimy on June 03, 2009, 05:20:20 PM
http://www.onlinesports.com/pages/I,AL-MGN016.html
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on June 03, 2009, 05:26:17 PM
I wouldn't trust that too much..    Considering that is the old cover,  and looks like the old description

:shrug:   who knows.   never heard of that store so it would seem pretty random that ward would have given them info before barnes and noble, amazon, borders, EMS, REI  etc.. 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: redpt on June 03, 2009, 05:45:38 PM

Chessler also has it, but for availability says "Late 2009"

http://www.chesslerbooks.com/eCart/viewItem.asp?idProduct=8452

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2009, 05:19:26 PM
Ward, I dropped the guidebook in the pot. When is the new one coming out? Anything holding it up?
Title: Re: the truth,or what the government doesn't want you to know....
Post by: ed_esmond on June 09, 2009, 07:14:40 PM
i hear he's waiting to include the "new super-secret sport crag" that's being developed somewhere in the mount washington valley. 

rumor has it that it's located behind whitehorse slab.  if you walk all the way around to the other side of the mountain, there's a cave where ceiling of the cave is the bottom of the slab on the other side.  it's perfect for sport climbing: chossy rock, drilled pockets, glued-on holds, eyebolts every 6 ft and and glue-in anchors.   

i hear all the trees at the top got cut down for firewood.  since rapping off of them would have killed them anyway, they had to go.... (the usfs sold them off as "biofuel....")

of course, this is all so hush-hush.  there is one small problem....the bolts keep migrating to the "trad" side of the mountain.  it's a potential disaster, since once there's one bolt, they just spread like weeds.  (it may have been the cause of the latest "thin air incident.")

hope this helps....

ed e

ps.  i'm off to the pharmacy for more cough syrup....

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: old_school on June 09, 2009, 07:32:11 PM
LOL....I love it Ed!!!  ;D
Hope the cough gets better!!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: F_Bomb on June 09, 2009, 07:44:50 PM
Heh heh... You know Ed, I think I did hear a rumor about that crag.... was it called "Owl's Cliff", or something like that?

The place was allegedly developed by that notorious gang of sport-climbers/outlaws who refer to themselves as "Team Tough". Not only did the Tough-sters retro-bolt a bunch of 5.11 cracks that Handren did in the early 90's, but it was also rumored that a large irrigated field of cannabis plants was discovered by the Forest Service not far from the crag, along with a cache of power tools including chainsaws, power-drills, and other implements of destruction.

Of course, these are just rumors, right? Someone would have to go and search the USFS public records in Berlin to prove anything.  I doubt any group of climbers claiming to be so committed to "stewardship" would be involved in this kind of tom-foolery. But then again... can you blame the good climbing citizenry of the Mount Washington Valley for wanting to protect their fair climbing area from the vile depravities of stoned sport climbers spraying bolts everywhere?

At least next time the MWV chopping mob forms, they know a good place to go and re-supply on hangers...

Freddie
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: F_Bomb on June 09, 2009, 08:29:35 PM
Awww shucks guys... I didn't mean to kill the conversation.  Lord knows I love pot, chainsaws, and clipping bolts as much as anyone. And I'm sure you all can take a joke as well as you can give it -- you know I'm just playin', right? 

Respectfully,

Freddie
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: old_school on June 09, 2009, 08:55:41 PM
So where is this cannabis Freddie? Not that I want to know...just wanted to tell my friends...yah that's it...my friends...   :D
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: F_Bomb on June 09, 2009, 09:13:12 PM
Of course -- "my friends"!  Well, hmmm.... ever hear of Rob Brook? the Brunel Trail? No, wait: I'm just spreading rumors again. I don't think your friends would find anything there. Because it never happened. And if it did happen, the FS would have destroyed it.

But, just for a minute, can you imagine how annoying and hypocritical it would be to get lectures about stewardship and ethics from the same nig-nogs who got caught doing something that would place access and public trust for our sport in FAR greater danger than any ho-hum bolt/chop controversy in the MWV??

Whew! Maybe I hit my "cough syrup" a little too hard....
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2009, 09:18:00 PM
You forgot the brushhog Freddie. At least give us credit where it is due
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: F_Bomb on June 09, 2009, 09:27:28 PM
OK, the brushhog is duly noted. ;)

But in all honesty, regarding the "Owl's Cliff Incident", I got no moral problems with whatever "rules" you guys broke.  Climbing is all about anarchy and breaking the rules, and I like to break rules too. But you can't get caught -- that royally screws it up for everyone else who loves wilderness WMNF climbing.

Respectfully,
Freddie
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2009, 10:36:12 PM
Freddie, I'll answer you in an PM, as I think this could get ugly on a public forum, but I would like to say that just about everything you have slandered myself and friends with is either untrue or highly exaggerated. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that this was an attempt at humor or to distract from the latest silly North Conway personality/bolt war, but I consider it uncalled for
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on June 10, 2009, 09:53:57 AM
Bolted cracks?  Not me.   I did put a couple of bolts on a 12c next to two gear placements, if it is a big deal they could come out.   

Growing pot?  Not me.  Didn't know about it until after the fact, like everyone else except the individual responsible.  Don't blame everyone for something one person did on their own.  I was pretty pissed off when I found out about it  since I could have been (wrongly) arrested.

No chain saws were used, FWIW.  Power drills are not illegal in the area. The "cache of weapons of mass destruction" consisted of sleeping bags, pads, tents and a hand saw.

The only thing I "retrobolted" was a 5.12 face route with no gear placements that had been toproped by Handren and Andy Ross.   Andy told me he wanted to bolt it himself but it was so far out there that nobody would ever do it again.

You would be surprised at how many trad routes are out there.   



Ward




Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: strandman on June 10, 2009, 10:01:10 AM
Bolted cracks ? Check Wild River. Owl's of course has a bit of potential, how about Green's ? Too far ?
Did I hear a gear route was done at Rumney !?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 10, 2009, 11:26:17 AM
In regards to the bolts Ward put in on the 12c, I belayed Brady Libby while he worked on a 5.12 finger crack that had the same start as Wards route (after Ward did his route). Brady wanted to do the route absolutely pure (and we commended him for it) so he skipped the first 2 bolts and placed gear. Every single time the gear would fall out as he climbed past (and he is no slouch with gear). It was nerve-wracking to belay, but cool to see his dedication. By the way, Brady has no problem with the bolts being there. Ward offered to take them out, but he said no.

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 10, 2009, 11:35:55 AM
Bolted cracks ? Check Wild River. Owl's of course has a bit of potential, how about Green's ? Too far ?
Did I hear a gear route was done at Rumney !?

Greens looks very cool. Brady told me he did a recon not too long ago and the routes like Jim Dunn... arent even on the main cliff. Apperently the main part is undercut, with hard steepness leading to long face and very steep slab. It looks like a nice place to get away from the crowds and the ingrown self rightious pricks of North Conway

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 10, 2009, 12:11:02 PM
Freddie,  thanks for saying what a lot of people have been thinking and concerned with Owl's Cliff.
Specifically regarding Owl's Cliff, I too have been wanting to say something with deep concern for established cracks/routes that may have been bolted.
I'm all for new routes and developing a cool new area- but put up in good style, with thought to the regulations requested by the lands they are on, and with an ethical mind.
There is no excuse for not doing your homework on the history of an area, and of course bolting cracks. 
I haven't been out there, so I don't know personally- but I'm hoping it's all not true. 
Nonetheless, hope to see y'all out there scramblin' on the the rocks we are all so passionate bout!   
Anne

Well your information was wrong , Anne. If you were so concerned, how come you never mentioned it to me when we bumped into each other?. We put up our routes out there in the same way as most people do. It is not a sport fest, though there are some "sport" climbs. Where there is gear, we use gear. The only difference with some is that we use bolted belays. We do this for ecological, safety, and convenience reasons. Yes, convenience. We are the ones putting the effort in to hike way out there and establish routes, often working solo, and that is our style. Once the route are established, we would like for people to not have to bother the area at the top of the cliff. It looks like some boyscouts cleared an area at the top for a view years ago, and it still hasn't fully grown back. It is delicate up there. Only the most rabid would have reason to complain if they actually experienced the climbs. For all the moaning and groaning, we have NEVER seen anyone else out there.

Why do you think we haven't publicized  the climbs we have done there? Do you think we would want to encourage the likes of Freddie and his maliciousness to come and ruin our wilderness experience? When I go out to Owl's, I go out to be away from people or be with a few good friends, get exercise, get on some nice climbs, enjoy the view and explore, not deal with people with bullying personality disorders.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: om on June 10, 2009, 01:31:42 PM

But, just for a minute, can you imagine how annoying and hypocritical it would be to get lectures about stewardship and ethics from the same nig-nogs who got caught doing something that would place access and public trust for our sport in FAR greater danger than any ho-hum bolt/chop controversy in the MWV??


Freddie, could you please point out to where you have developed something or provided stewardship in a better style recently? I would gladly go and check it out myself, and will report with a detailed comparison to the efforts mentioned here...
I love climbing at the newly developed areas around NE simply because I've been living here for a while and a bit tired of the Cathedral/Rumney routine. And I have huge appreciation for people using their time and resources to prep a playground for the rest of us.


I haven't been out there, so I don't know personally- but I'm hoping it's all not true. 


yep, nothing is more valuable then an opinion based on lack of information...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Old Mans Ghost on June 10, 2009, 02:04:48 PM
Speaking of stewardship, I wonder how the land managers up in the Notch feel about keg parties on the big cliff....?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on June 10, 2009, 02:51:09 PM
you can always tell when it's rainy here in the Valley because the rhetoric on the forums starts heating up!

 :P

--al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on June 10, 2009, 02:51:57 PM
Greens looks very cool. Brady told me he did a recon not too long ago and the routes like Jim Dunn... arent even on the main cliff. Apperently the main part is undercut, with hard steepness leading to long face and very steep slab. It looks like a nice place to get away from the crowds and the ingrown self rightious pricks of North Conway



Let's please stop the name-calling.  I suspect that adult beverages may have been involved on both sides.  I am however a bit disappointed in some that could have emailed me if they wanted the "inside scoop."

The first time out there, my brother and I bushwhacked out in late winter 1992 or so and put up a 5.12a/b arete that looked like 5.10 from the ground.  Mistakes were made, but my biggest mistake was telling too many people about it.   My brother and I never cut any trails; I did leave a rope out there for greater than the 21 day legal limit.

I was always adamant that things be done the "Conway Way" since this was clearly a MWV crag.  I wanted to do bolt routes so I have stuck mostly to the faces.  If you ever make it out there, one of the first routes you will come to at the righthand cliff (there are two cliffs) is a mini retaliataion on the smaller lower tier that goes at 10+ and is a pain in the ass to place gear on.  Hence the name "Conway Crack."

Ward
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 10, 2009, 02:58:22 PM
Actually, it is named that because we stuffed Jay in there, tied him off and used him as a piece of pro
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: strandman on June 10, 2009, 05:18:22 PM
Actually, it is named that because we stuffed Jay in there, tied him off and used him as a piece of pro
That seems very cruel- placing a part time sport climber in a crack ! Actually greens has LOT'S of  potential, very steep starts and some of the steepest "slab" I have ever done. Also some cool boulders.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: abc on June 10, 2009, 05:29:42 PM
Yeah, Green's is huge. Stewart's crack looks cool, although I've only seen the bottom, since I haven't been able to trick anyone into going there to belay me :(
Plenty of room for everyone out there...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Jeff on June 10, 2009, 05:31:02 PM
Wow, the weather must really suck in the MWV. The rhetoric has really heated up in the past few days. I left Bartlett on Monday afternoon after 4 perfect weather days on the granite, including taking my daughter up Thin Air for her first time on Monday morning, where I could point out the ugly result of "re" and "debolting"  at the platform belay; I was able to tell her that the bolts were there when I first climbed the pitch in 1969, but that they had been repetitively removed, replaced and removed again by people who weren't even alive in 1975. She's 22 and doesn't understand yet why some people feel they have to impose their will on everyone else, and leave an ugly mess in the process. I'm incapable of explaining it because I don't understand either. Lest someone think I'm arguing in favor of "the dreaded slippery slope", I've placed fewer than 10 bolts in my life (several on my now extinct route Royal Arches Reminiscence) and never chopped one placed by someone else. However I don't try to impose my will on others-- climbing is too much of a personal passion for most of us for it to be possible to convince others that they are "doing it wrong" ; as the other Andy said so eloquently "bolts on Thin Air: for F--ks sake give it a rest" (quote remembered--perhaps not exact) I hope the weather improves so people can get back out cranking instead of staying in getting cranky!!  Jeff Lea
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: abc on June 10, 2009, 05:50:17 PM
Could be worse.. the bug report is only 4 out of 5  ::)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on June 10, 2009, 09:38:33 PM
Could be worse.. the bug report is only 4 out of 5  ::)

LOL   ;)

--al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: F_Bomb on June 11, 2009, 12:00:45 AM
Hey guys --

I'd like to do my part to try to defuse this situation. I was heckling some folks pretty good last night, and it's clear I hit a nerve. WELL... I'm a born heckler and in my opinion that was what the situation called for. For a couple of years there's been tales floating around from FS guys and other climbers about what went on at Owl's Cliff. It would be gossipy to go into the nitty-gritty, but like Ward said, I think we can all agree that a few individuals made some honest mistakes that they probably regret now. The crimes themselves were no big deal, other than the fact that they brought negative attention to climbing in the White Mountain National Forest.

Ain't it funny how the internet makes things seem more serious then they really are? I know how much crap is written about Cathedral Ledge being on the verge of anarchy when in reality, if you show up there on a pleasant evening there are no conflicts or confrontations and everyone is smiling and enjoying themselves. More than a few locals have rankled that the MWV always gets the bad rep for poor stewardship, when stuff like Owl's Cliff isn't even aired in a public forum.  It seems to me to be a double-standard to publicly criticize whats going on over here when we all knew you had a few skeletons in your own closet. So poor Ed perfectly set himself up for it last night and I decided to let him have it.

To be fair, some of the lines out there do look really rad, especially on the upper wall, and I'd be psyched to try them some day. There are also a few bolted slabs down low that I can only describe as bat-shit crazy, and I can't imagine a ranger seeing them and not questioning the ability of climbers to regulate themselves. But that's a small issue, and please don't think I'm seriously threatening to chop anything.  We spend a lot of time preaching about respecting first ascentionist's rights. I'd be a hypocrite if I went up there and messed with your routes. But I think it's worthwhile to raise the question if what works at Rumney works in a wilderness setting on the Kanc. Reasonable?

I keep reading accusations on the internet that Cathedral ethics are dictated by a minority group of chopping fanatics, when the reality is, with the exception of a few vocal dissenters, there's a clear consensus on most things. That's also a false, unproductive rumor to spread, and I just wanted to prove that the rumor mill can cut both ways.

I'm a big boy and I can take shit as well as I give it. Now that everyone's had a chance to get a few punches in, perhaps we can let this thing blow over?

Freddie



Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on June 11, 2009, 06:02:38 AM
It seems to me to be a double-standard to publicly criticize whats going on over here when we all knew you had a few skeletons in your own closet. So poor Ed perfectly set himself up for it last night and I decided to let him have it.

To be fair, some of the lines out there do look really rad, especially on the upper wall, and I'd be psyched to try them some day. There are also a few bolted slabs down low that I can only describe as bat-shit crazy, and I can't imagine a ranger seeing them and not questioning the ability of climbers to regulate themselves. But that's a small issue, and please don't think I'm seriously threatening to chop anything.  We spend a lot of time preaching about respecting first ascentionist's rights. I'd be a hypocrite if I went up there and messed with your routes. But I think it's worthwhile to raise the question if what works at Rumney works in a wilderness setting on the Kanc. Reasonable?


Ed has had nothing to do with the area (I think that the walk is too far for him).  Regarding the slabs, I thought the same when I saw them and so I stuck to the upper wall.  However, before you call them "bat shit" you might want to try them.  The second from the left (zig-zag)  is one of the best slabs around and is about 9+ MWV grade. If it were on cathedral there would be a line every day waiting to climb it.  I agree that the area should not be another Rumney, and if you've seen it you know that it is not. 

I put in my two cents because I do care about the MWV.  Frankly I am a climber because of Cathedral (seeing people on Thin Air from the top at a tender age). I did my first multi-pitch at 16 on Whitehorse in vasque ascenders, gripped out of my mind, getting directed by Paul Ross to the easy variation since there was no bolt on the brown spot.  My first 11a was lichen delight; my first 12 onsight was Unwelcome Guest...you get the picture. 

I guess it is wrong of me to criticize your lack of organization since I am an "outsider."  However, organizing has worked incredibly well for us in Western Massachusetts.  We have differing styles among us, but the sport weenies aren't retrobolting the trad routes, and there is no more chopping going on now that Ken has been busted.

Cheers,

Ward




Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: OldEric on June 11, 2009, 09:45:04 AM
This is supposed to be a thread about the freaking guidebook.  Ward - stop typing here and go start typing the damn guide for cripes sakes.   ;)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jayconway on June 11, 2009, 02:06:47 PM
Actually, it is named that because we stuffed Jay in there, tied him off and used him as a piece of pro

Must be a solid anchor! They didn't put you in there because you wouldn't hold up, Mark "wimpy" Sprauge.

That seems very cruel- placing a part time sport climber in a crack ! Actually greens has LOT'S of  potential, very steep starts and some of the steepest "slab" I have ever done. Also some cool boulders.

John-
I would much rather be a part time sport climber, as opposed to full time internet climber.

Jay Conway

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on June 11, 2009, 02:27:50 PM
Ha ha ha. I wouldn't stick in the chimney



Jay, check your messages
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: strandman on June 12, 2009, 10:03:55 AM
Must be a solid anchor! They didn't put you in there because you wouldn't hold up, Mark "wimpy" Sprauge.

John-
I would much rather be a part time sport climber, as opposed to full time internet climber.

Jay Conway


Ha Ha Ha . It was a joke- get it ?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: wonder78 on June 15, 2009, 09:58:12 AM
says random outsider weekend warrior climber : "sooooooo, 'bout that guidebook????"
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on June 16, 2009, 07:40:26 AM
I'm getting a "final" draft in the mail this week.  Some problems with advertising as always.  I'll let you know.

Ward
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: epoch on June 16, 2009, 02:13:47 PM
 ;D
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: DWarriner on June 17, 2009, 09:35:53 AM
Is this the new guide?  (Copyright 1992)   How much can happen in 15+ years?  Look at Cathedral.

What's this new area ... Darth Vader?   Looks interesting.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: meclimber on June 17, 2009, 05:18:32 PM
Hope they don't bolt any of the sweet traditional lines there...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: ethatch on June 17, 2009, 05:28:38 PM
Hope they don't bolt any of the sweet traditional lines there...

  OH wait.......to late.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: ethatch on June 17, 2009, 05:29:55 PM
Actually. The really good ones (5.8 crack, Holderness Corner, Darth...) aren't bolted thank god.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on July 02, 2009, 10:49:04 AM
Is it the weather or the constant straying from the subject that has slowed the interest in the original intent of this post? Either way, anyone have an update on this thing? Thanks!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: DWarriner on July 02, 2009, 04:14:15 PM
Is it the weather or the constant straying from the subject that has slowed the interest in the original intent of this post? Either way, anyone have an update on this thing? Thanks!

I think it's the lack of a new guidebook that lends itself to straying off topic.  Others might say it's a collective short attention span but I tend to ....  ah never mind.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on July 03, 2009, 05:02:34 AM
You are right! Lets resume bitching about the 2 or 3 traditionally protected lines that were bolted at one of the countrys best SPORT crags......god forbid we plug cams and nuts in Conway and leave the Clip up Kids alone......I love New England!!!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: meclimber on July 03, 2009, 07:53:50 AM
Now we're talking!

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: ethatch on July 03, 2009, 08:32:53 AM
You are right! Lets resume bitching about the 2 or 3 traditionally protected lines that were bolted at one of the countrys best SPORT crags......god forbid we plug cams and nuts in Conway and leave the Clip up Kids alone......I love New England!!!

Bitching may be a bit of a strong word. I jest
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on July 03, 2009, 02:35:14 PM
OK OK OK folks... let's stop bitching about bolts, bolters or the like. let's hang in there on the actual topic of, what was it? oh yes - "Rumney Guide Book"  ::)

WARD dude! give these folks the real skinny my man. lay it out there for all to see. the natives are restless.

when are we getting a new guidebook?

inquiring minds WANT/NEED/DESERVE to know!

--al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on July 03, 2009, 10:12:10 PM
Ward got abducted by space aliens last week. They said they won't bring him back for 3 months. The good news is they have some high tech printer that runs directly from the mind and does editing too
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on July 03, 2009, 10:50:41 PM
Soon, promise,

we are in the final proof stages, at last!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: GOclimb on July 31, 2009, 04:55:16 PM
Soon, promise,

we are in the final proof stages, at last!

That was almost a month ago.

...  And?

GO
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Mike G on August 01, 2009, 07:58:22 PM
Will you guys give it a F'n rest. If I was the author I would tell you to shove it up your arse. Remember this is a voluntary effort. Nobody owes anybody a thing here. What do yo have to lose by trying a route at Rumney that is not in the current book, a biner? Get a life!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on August 02, 2009, 08:06:44 PM
 I know people are anxious,

Ward and I spoke tonight, hope to go to press in the next two weeks and then 3 weeks at the printer.
I'll post when I have a definite date.
may even take some pre-orders if folks are interested.

cheers,
Bob
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: mendonza on September 03, 2009, 10:41:32 AM
Ok i suppose its my turn to bump this thread up and bitch about the lack of new guidebook :)

From the last post that said "go to press in the next two weeks and then 3 weeks at the printer" the guide should be done in the next day or so.

Any word?

Matt
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: ethatch on September 03, 2009, 10:45:19 AM
Matt, hate to be the barer of bad news, and I'm still hoping they were misinformed, but about a week ago the folks at Plymouth Ski and Sports told me that they were told it would be another month or two.   :(
       -Erik
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: mendonza on September 03, 2009, 01:25:03 PM
HAHAHA, par for the course no?

It's like the little guidebook that could, chugging along...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: abc on September 03, 2009, 02:14:19 PM
I heard there will be a new route in it called Astral Projection, that allows you to escape the crowds and climb in an uninhabited version of Rumney. Definitely worth the wait ;)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Dave on September 03, 2009, 02:48:54 PM
I heard there will be a new route in it called Astral Projection, that allows you to escape the crowds and climb in an uninhabited version of Rumney. Definitely worth the wait ;)


Shhhhh! ;) What guidebook! ;D I heard Jan. 2013  :)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: abc on September 03, 2009, 03:22:36 PM
 December 21, 2012. I'm planning the party now  ::)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Dave on September 07, 2009, 10:06:43 AM
I know, this is getting old but here is the scoop direct from Ward in an e-mail I just received from him.

"Proofreading the final cut as we speak. It is supposed to go to the printers later this week. No promises, but soon!"

Now there are no rumors! Dave R.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: DLottmann on September 07, 2009, 08:34:25 PM
I haven't really kept up on this thread but after reading about some of the shit that went down this weekend are you guys really sure you want a new guidebook?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Dave on September 07, 2009, 08:40:54 PM
I sent the e-mail to Ward because people wanted to know and I wouldn't post his contact info in a public forum but I personally hope it never comes out. We were at a place all day Saturday and we were the only people at that crag because it is not in the present book!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: WanderlustMD on September 07, 2009, 11:05:16 PM
I haven't really kept up on this thread but after reading about some of the shit that went down this weekend are you guys really sure you want a new guidebook?

The man raises a good point.
I started regular visits to Rumney this season and didn't know much about the crag before then. Between MP, friends and people at the crag, I've found my way around without a guide.

Granted, I do climb a lot with Jake, who pretty much has the sucker memorized...

Regardless, I'm still looking forward to it. Thanks, Ward.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on September 08, 2009, 04:28:30 PM
It is going to the printers this week.  Thanks to everyone who bugged me, I couldn't have done it without you.  If you don't like crowds then I recommend the Rainbow Slabs.  Nice routes, good views, and you don't have to bring too many quickdraws...one of the bolts I clipped (On "Face Dances") belongs in a museum. 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: alclimbup2 on September 08, 2009, 05:39:36 PM
Ward: realize off topic, but nice meeting you at Mt.Oscar this weekend, that bolt on face dances was an antique when I led it at least 20 years ago, so it has to be a rusty useless thing now. And.....we do remember your email address and will be in touch for some western MA climbing at some point. Thanx for all the info about lichen, hahaha

best of luck with your guidebook, don't climb rumney much these days but a lotta people are going to be happy, should roll off the press like hotcakes!, see ya again soon...Al
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: bhall430 on September 16, 2009, 09:59:24 AM
I've got one of those great questions everyone is glad they wasted the time to read. So where, can I get a copy of ANY (new or old) guidebook for this weekend.  My stupid friend moved to Boise, with my guide. 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: DLottmann on September 16, 2009, 10:02:21 AM
I've got one of those great questions everyone is glad they wasted the time to read. So where, can I get a copy of ANY (new or old) guidebook for this weekend.  My stupid friend moved to Boise, with my guide. 

Only one in print I can think of is the Falcon Guide "Rock Climbs in New Hampshire" though it is not very all-inclusive... saw it on the shelves at EMS not long ago...
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JakeDatc on September 16, 2009, 10:28:12 AM
Only one in print I can think of is the Falcon Guide "Rock Climbs in New Hampshire" though it is not very all-inclusive... saw it on the shelves at EMS not long ago...

that thing is less than useless at rumney. it's missing so much you will have to ask everyone about stuff anyway. 

just show up and ask to borrow someone's at the crag.. should be enough around to get along pretty well. 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Lanky on September 16, 2009, 12:12:37 PM
I've got one of those great questions everyone is glad they wasted the time to read. So where, can I get a copy of ANY (new or old) guidebook for this weekend.  My stupid friend moved to Boise, with my guide. 
This should set you up right: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/105867829
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: leewee on September 19, 2009, 07:52:11 AM
i recently made over 30 maps to rumney that include almost all of the newer routes and all but the most obscure cliffs... though they are nothing fancy they should get you by pretty well till the new guide comes out... here is a link http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eastern_states/rumney_guidebook/106459576#a_106539287
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: little lil on October 04, 2009, 11:52:54 PM
is the printer ok?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: GOclimb on October 09, 2009, 11:46:02 AM
It is going to the printers this week.  Thanks to everyone who bugged me, I couldn't have done it without you.  If you don't like crowds then I recommend the Rainbow Slabs.  Nice routes, good views, and you don't have to bring too many quickdraws...one of the bolts I clipped (On "Face Dances") belongs in a museum. 


Congratulations!  I hope you make a million bucks!

Soon as I see it in the stores, I'll buy a copy, though it's a long way from Colorado, so I dunno when I'll climb there next!

Cheers,

GO
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: M_Sprague on October 09, 2009, 04:38:17 PM
It may take a while. I hear they have hired scribes from the local monestary. Order your special gold embossed vellum edition :)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: GOclimb on October 12, 2009, 04:26:42 PM
Well I'm planning to move back to the east coast in five years or so.  So that gives y'all until 2015.  Go, scribes, go!

GO
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: oldmansmith on October 12, 2009, 07:22:20 PM
November 5 is when the printer says they will be ready.  Word (as Joe Kinder says).
 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: sneoh on October 12, 2009, 09:46:57 PM
Thanks for the update, Ward.
I am looking fwd to buying my 1st new Rumney Guide in 12 years (since 1st Ed. of Rockfax).

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: rbirk on November 09, 2009, 01:17:57 PM
Any updates?
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Dave on November 09, 2009, 01:21:33 PM
Due out in time for Christmas 3009!  ;)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: dsullivan on November 09, 2009, 02:44:11 PM
I talked to the guy at Plymouth Ski and Sports over the weekend and he said he had no idea when they were coming in but he had placed an order for "more than I think I could ever sell". So I dont think getting one is going to be an issue. The actual release of this document however........
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on November 09, 2009, 07:49:49 PM
Sorry all, just a wee bit more patience, there was a delay in the printing process, They are telling us the 20th!

cheers,
Bob
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on November 18, 2009, 09:52:18 PM
No April fools! the guide will be here on Friday! 11/20!

I'll get it locally right away, bigger shops will take a bit longer.
if you want to order direct www.rumneyclimbing.com shipping is free! I'll get them out promptly!!!!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: rbirk on November 18, 2009, 10:02:25 PM
Great to hear! Just ordered a copy!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: ethatch on November 18, 2009, 10:23:11 PM
In noticing you guys have made a website for the book, will you be keeping it up to date with new routes kind of like the new Adirondacks guide book has done? That would be a tremendous plus if you did.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: JBro on November 18, 2009, 10:51:32 PM
In noticing you guys have made a website for the book, will you be keeping it up to date with new routes kind of like the new Adirondacks guide book has done? That would be a tremendous plus if you did.

I heard the first update will be posted in January..... 2015.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Bbrum on November 19, 2009, 09:55:33 PM
The Guides are in hand!

Thanks to all who are ordering on rumneyclimbing.com , I'll set to shipping them in the morning!
Cheers,
Bob
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: bluesnpolitics on November 19, 2009, 11:53:20 PM
I'll tell you where I won't be this weekend... within 100 miles of Rumney!
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: cwoodman on November 20, 2009, 03:39:11 PM
Hey Folks,
I hate to shamelessly be pushing the company I work for- probably it's against website rules (sorry Al) but I just wanted everyone to know that THE NEW RUMNEY GUIDEBOOK IS IN THE STORE!!!  That's the Lahouts Summit Shop on Main St. in Lincoln. Bob just dropped them off and it looks great. Cost is $30 and we ship for free if you just can't wait. 603-745-2882.
Happy Climbing!
Chuck
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: Admin Al on November 20, 2009, 05:31:12 PM
no problem-o. go for it Chuck... ;D
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: gearX.com on November 25, 2009, 04:26:06 PM
Apologies for another promotional post, but for those who live in the Burlington, VT area the Rumney guide book is in stock at the Outdoor Gear Exchange.  It's also here on our website (http://gearx.com/rumney-guidebook.html). 

(http://gearx.com/media/logos/gearx-logo-100.png)
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: sneoh on December 02, 2009, 08:35:01 PM

Got the Guide today.  It describes a lot of new routes I had not known about before today.
Thanks, Ward and all other contributors!

From those among us who are below-average in height, a special thanks for mentioning routes which are stiff for the grade for us shorties - Squall (with no cheater shone start), Centerpiece, White Rhino (hellish crux for me), Pulse, etc.

-S. Neoh
 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: GOclimb on December 02, 2009, 11:02:35 PM
Got the Guide today.  It describes a lot of new routes I had not known about before today.
Thanks, Ward and all other contributors!

From those among us who are below-average in height, a special thanks for mentioning routes which are stiff for the grade for us shorties - Squall (with no cheater shone start), Centerpiece, White Rhino (hellish crux for me), Pulse, etc.

-S. Neoh
 

That 11 to the right of Millenium Falcon.  I had to pull a 5.12 move to get through the crux.

GO
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: sneoh on December 02, 2009, 11:38:47 PM
That 11 to the right of Millenium Falcon.  I had to pull a 5.12 move to get through the crux.

GO

That would be Gunboat Diplomacy, Gabe, and further right of it; Peanut Man.
The crux on P.M. feels solidly in the 5.12 range to me.  :(

The new Guide does mention both are harder for vertically challenged climbers, that makes me feel a little better about failing miserably on Peanut Man.  I've got to get stronger .....

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: GOclimb on December 03, 2009, 12:14:18 PM
That would be Gunboat Diplomacy, Gabe, and further right of it; Peanut Man.
The crux on P.M. feels solidly in the 5.12 range to me.  :(

The new Guide does mention both are harder for vertically challenged climbers, that makes me feel a little better about failing miserably on Peanut Man.  I've got to get stronger .....



Gunboat Diplomacy is the one I mean. 

I've done both, and IMO, Peanut man is right on for the grade (11d) for an average-sized human (5'6" or so).  It's just that it may be a good bit easier if you're tall, since you can skip a hard move or two.

Gunboat Diplomacy, on the other hand, is definitely much harder than the grade (11c) if you're 5'6", unless I missed some key beta.

GO
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: sneoh on December 03, 2009, 12:30:44 PM

Different strokes for different folks; for me, Gunboat did not feel as "beyond grade" as Peanut Man.
It is entirely possible that I missed something on P.M.

Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: OldEric on December 04, 2009, 10:26:34 AM
G.D is just insecure - but I don't think it is that hieght dependent.  P.M. is powerful and beta.  I am just tall enough (5,9)- on a good day - to go straight to the undercling and straight to the dish from there - not having to fiddle faddle with the extra moves that a short person has to do at the crux though.  Still gotta clip though - glad that I get looked at like I have two heads when I say that pink points are not really valid.
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: HangingChad on December 05, 2009, 12:27:41 PM
so when does the next rumney guide book come out?  GOSH



haha, I kid I kid. 
Title: Re: Rumney Guide Book
Post by: jammer on December 07, 2009, 03:54:51 PM
No April fools! the guide will be here on Friday! 11/20!

I'll get it locally right away, bigger shops will take a bit longer.
if you want to order direct www.rumneyclimbing.com shipping is free! I'll get them out promptly!!!!
Been awhile since I came here.  My bad!  I just ordered a couple myself. Thanks!