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General => Conditions => Topic started by: Admin Al on December 16, 2011, 11:27:10 PM

Title: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 16, 2011, 11:27:10 PM
it was chilly on Thursday morning, but warmed up throughout the day, turning to light rain by mid-morning.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: apbt1976 on December 20, 2011, 05:40:28 PM
Went up Lower Hitchcock to Upper Hitchcock Gully today. The lower gully is really bony, hardly any snow in the woods at all. The upper gully had pretty good ice.
The left slabs were still pretty thin but coming along. The right side looked heftier and doable.
Saw someone on Standard at Frankenstein when I drove past, definitely looked thin from that far away.

Sweet...

Better than nothing right!!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Dave7 on December 22, 2011, 01:01:49 PM
Anyone driven past Mt Webster lately?  Looking to head up shoestring gully next week.  Hopefully there is some ice to climb??
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 22, 2011, 02:31:52 PM
if you're getting the Report, check the pictures of Shoestring and Hitchcock taken today. not too good right now IMNSHO. that said, I climbed Elephant Head and it was wet but possible... it's got to get cold!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: ELM on December 22, 2011, 06:19:10 PM
Al...could you run this thread..and all condition threads backwards? That means the latest post first.  I may be able to do this with the options you have: if so please enlighten me.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 22, 2011, 08:46:59 PM
Ed,

if you go to your Profile, Look and Layout, there is an option to show latest posts first.

Al
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: M_Sprague on December 23, 2011, 01:42:41 AM
I was also wondering if individual threads could be set that way (as opposed to all). When these get to 50 pages they could get to be a pain. The alternative would be to delete our old posts if they don't have timely information anymore.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 23, 2011, 07:37:24 AM
I don't think that there is a way to set individual topics to that. however, if you can have the best of both worlds by leaving it set to Show Oldest Last. when you want to read threads click the Show Unread Posts Since Last Visit link up by your avatar, and  then click the NEW button next to the thread name. that's how I do it...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: M_Sprague on December 23, 2011, 08:37:58 AM
That works well. Thanks.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 23, 2011, 04:50:20 PM
I've gotten a few comments that my Report is off the mark and that lots of ice is IN and getting climbed everywhere. I would say that things are somewhere in the middle. I would say that most things aren't IN, but that some things are climbable. here is a comment that I received today via email:

"Hanging Garden is pretty much in (and the slab next to it is fat), as is Hobbit Couloir, Waterfall, Lost in the Forest, the Trestle and Trestle slabs. I also did Dropline on toprope yesterday and it was bonded and super climbable.  You probably also know this but Shoestring is in and getting done daily, as is Hitchcock, Cleft, etc."

as always I urge you to look at things directly, make your own decisions and assess your risk-tolerance.

cheers...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Dave7 on December 27, 2011, 07:41:22 PM
Climbed Shoestring today, it is definitely not "IN" but there a couple of WI2 steps ( 5-10 meters) with decent ice.  I placed only one 13 cm screw. 
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: apbt1976 on December 27, 2011, 09:53:34 PM
Climbed Shoestring today, it is definitely not "IN" but there a couple of WI2 steps ( 5-10 meters) with decent ice.  I placed only one 13 cm screw.

Well i guess i should cross that off the list for later in the week?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: rpdoucette on December 30, 2011, 01:52:39 PM
I climbed at Frankenstein monday and thursday this week.  The conditions have improved, but still many climbs are not "in".  Standard is good, Lost (and Walk) in the Forest look good...trestle cut/slab...cats paw...Dracula is in but thin and steep.  Hanging gardens are growing.  Nothing on Mt. Willard looked really good.  Gulley #1 maybe, Cinema is not in.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on December 30, 2011, 05:44:58 PM
Great day at Franky's 2day. The ice was fantastic and plastic! Get after it! ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 30, 2011, 07:39:56 PM
Whaddya get on?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tim03303 on December 30, 2011, 08:22:16 PM
We climbed Hitchcock on Thursday.  (Al that was us that you saw/yellow jacket).  Lower HG was an open/running brook.  The ice started about 100ft below the rock section.  Upper HG was good.  The bottom was crusty snow/ice that sheared out, the top curtain was steep but with a good turf top out.

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: rpdoucette on January 01, 2012, 08:53:56 PM
Climbed at Frankenstein - Lost in the Forest and Walk in the Forest - yesterday.  The ice there is in good shape.  "Walk" is hollow in a coupla spots and very thin at the topout.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2012, 10:14:16 PM
many of the topouts are thin now. gotta be sure to place gear before you try to make it that  final 4'!  :P
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2012, 10:16:42 PM
it was a beautiful day today, Sunday. in fact the whole weekend was a bit warm, but still good. unfortunately it's raining right now at Cathedral Ledge! let's hope that it's short-lived...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: punxnotdead on January 01, 2012, 10:36:07 PM
Climbed standard route at Frankie today. 45 friggin degrees...... good ice though
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: slink on January 02, 2012, 05:57:21 PM
Punx great day out after missinag all of last season.Hopefully things settle in or we will just have to rock climb ;D
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on January 02, 2012, 06:17:40 PM
At IME this afternoon and heard that one of the pillars at the top of standard let go and some of the debris struck a climber. This is third hand, but it sounded like he/she was OK...split helmet, a bit shaken up but rapped off the route under his/her own power and required no rescue. Very lucky person...that one could have been very bad!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DWT on January 02, 2012, 07:29:47 PM
 :-\ geez.  Sounds terrifying.  Anybody reading this ever have that happen?  Details?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Rubberhead on January 02, 2012, 09:33:29 PM
It was my buddy that got hit today. He was halfway up the first pitch when it happened.   I was belaying him up from the cave when a huge slab of ice came off the top.  It sounded like a bomb went off and then an avalanche of ice came cascading down over him.   2 or 3 blocks of ice about the size of a large suitcase went flying by, plus 5-10 the size of basketballs.  The slab exploded as it came down the route and for a couple seconds I lost sight of him in the whiteout.  Scariest things I've ever encountered in the mountains.

from what I was told by a group repelling down the right side of the route at the time, the lead climber of the group ahead of us climbed straight up a sketchy bit of ice on the last vertical section and dislodged the whole face as he topped out.  I guess it missed his second on the way down because she seemed fine. 

Luckily, our rope wasn't cut or damaged and we were low enough that I could lower him down.  I rapped down from the cave.
He has a large cut on the back of his head (his helmet did its job!) and we went to the hospital in N.Conway and he got 6 staples to keep the gash closed.

We were lucky and it could have been much, much worse. He had stopped to remove a screw and a minute or 2 later he would have been climbing up over the bulge and the ice would have hit him square in the face/chest, etc.  As it was, he was able to crouch down against the bulge and much of the ice cascaded over his head. 

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on January 02, 2012, 10:02:20 PM
Holy Sh@*t...  :o

So glad you are all ok. That was a close call. I wish your partner a speedy recovery.

grammy
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 02, 2012, 11:06:06 PM
Glad no one got killed. Seemed pretty warm in town today, things must be pretty undermined from the recent weather. Beware the sun + above freezing temps.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: David_G48 on January 02, 2012, 11:17:46 PM
Happy to read that no one was seriously hurt. It could have had some dire results with someone in the wrong spot at the wrong time. At the beginning of the season it doesn't take very many days of mild weather to cause unstable conditions. The ice has not had enough time to securely bond to the cliffs. Those columns at the top of Standard were ok on Friday but by no means were they fat or bonded 100% even though they were climable :).
"Cave Ne Glacies Climber"
Be safe out there!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Rubberhead on January 03, 2012, 08:30:44 AM
Glad no one got killed. Seemed pretty warm in town today, things must be pretty undermined from the recent weather. Beware the sun + above freezing temps.

Yeah, we had a lot of time to think about what happened on our ride home. The temps were warmer than I anticipated. There were snow flurries on and off all day and little sun so things seemed to be holding together pretty well.  Down low the ice was fine, except for some small sections that were beginning to rot from the traffic and temps.   The group rappelling down had bailed right before topping out because they didn't like the look of the last bit. 

In hindsight, with the warm temps, we should have either waited until the pair in front of us had finished, so there was less chance of falling ice, or called it a day since the warmer daytime temps had had time to do damage.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DWT on January 03, 2012, 09:42:31 AM
Glad you guys are "OK".
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 03, 2012, 04:18:16 PM
glad to hear the all are relatively OK. in spite of how reasonable the ice has been on any given day. it's not "good" yet. we have had so many days of cold/warm/dry/wet and everything in between that it's actually a bit of a crap shoot on climbs that are in the sun, like Standard. IMNSHO until we get some consistent cold temps plus no rain you need to be super careful on what you climb.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: meclimber on January 03, 2012, 04:27:07 PM
Finally got out and did shoestring on monday.  Pretty thin, but the lack of snow conditions made it really fast.  It took me more than twice as long to get there than climb the route.  Running water down low, but great ice up high.  Had it to myself until the top when I ran into a couple other guys.  Good stuff.

I did check out another under used area on the way home that I'll post up.  2 great obvious lines that are recorded with a bunch of other stuff that I'm sure has been done and a super sweat direct finish of another climb.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 03, 2012, 10:06:07 PM
...
I did check out another under used area on the way home that I'll post up.  2 great obvious lines that are recorded with a bunch of other stuff that I'm sure has been done and a super sweat direct finish of another climb.

so? curious about this area...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: meclimber on January 04, 2012, 06:07:58 AM
soon, i want to get my line first!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on January 04, 2012, 09:29:37 AM
soon, i want to get my line first!

Hmmmmmm...... ::)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: meclimber on January 04, 2012, 02:18:30 PM
I just noticed that I have a negative karma.  WTF...only Al and I do. :-[
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 04, 2012, 04:14:23 PM
I just noticed that I have a negative karma.  WTF...only Al and I do. :-[

I'm not surprised, the boss always has negative Karma... [sigh]
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 06, 2012, 10:46:36 AM
I've really been wanting to say this for the past 6 weeks!  :D

It looks as if it's going to be a great weekend to go ice climbing. There are lots of climbs in the lower elevations that have good to reasonable ice and it's really building fast.  ;D  Make your plans for the weekend now and come on up.

yee ha......
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: rpdoucette on January 16, 2012, 09:24:07 PM
Climbed at Frankenstein and Texaco last weekend, Frankenstein and Lost Helmet Crag this weekend.  The ice is certainly getting better in most places.  Ive noticed more downed trees this year than any winter before.  Maybe even some rock fall by the Russian climbs left of Smear.  Maybe something from the Diamonds and Rust area fell off this past year...or maybe the snow is so thin I never noticed the rocks before...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 16, 2012, 09:39:08 PM
Lost Helmet... man I have never made it out there... is it worth it?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 16, 2012, 11:36:34 PM
when it's in, Lost Helmet is pretty cool. 2 weeks ago it looked darn good and there was no snow to make for a very easy hike. it's directly in the sun so by late season it's all done.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: ddjr13 on January 17, 2012, 12:49:44 AM
Climbed Texaco today all by ourselves. A few good routes 70-90 feet. Still a few waiting to touch down be we had a blast.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 17, 2012, 09:05:56 AM
Climbed Texaco today all by ourselves. A few good routes 70-90 feet. Still a few waiting to touch down be we had a blast.

sweet. I'll bet it was pretty nice in the sun. sometimes it can be very cold and windy and that is a pretty reasonable place to be...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 17, 2012, 05:50:40 PM
Central Couliour on Webster looks HUGE right now... been wanting to get that route for years...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: perswig on January 17, 2012, 07:42:09 PM
^^
Look for a can of Dinty Moore on the hike out!

In all seriousness, that was a fun climb/hike last year; it was a pretty good snow/water year and I still managed to find a thin, chandeliered line over the initial steeper section that had me swearing.  MEClimber took a different line and it sounded sporty, too.

Dale
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on January 23, 2012, 06:11:25 AM
Had a great day yesterday (sunday) on Bob's Delight (Great condition) and Chia. Despite many cars in the upper lot, the crag was pretty quiet with Standard seeing the most action. Climbers on Smear, Pegasus, Pegasus Rock finish and Hobbit's while we were there. Sunny and 20's...a perfect day in my book!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 23, 2012, 06:43:00 AM
I did Bob's on Saturday and agree it was great. if you took the steep line straight up I thought it was grade 4. there is an easier line on the left. as always, if you go up the groove at the top it's a grovel, but the left side of the bulge was fantastic.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on January 23, 2012, 08:43:10 AM
Yah...I took the steep line and found it to be pretty pumpy, but the ice was in great shape! The left side did look thinner, but definitely an easier line~!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: apbt1976 on February 10, 2012, 05:21:08 PM
Climbed Dracula and then The Hobbit this morning. Shit was a mess in there! Dracula an Hobbit where fine buts lots is not in at all and other stuff is baked bad. Lots has melted out in just the last two weeks. Kinda a sad sight to be honest!

Don't get me wrong there is stuff to climb "kinda" but if we keep getting these warm days there will not be for long!!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on February 10, 2012, 09:36:21 PM
Good call, beware everything in the sun right now. Cinema was good yesterday but the direct finish is on it’s way out. Gully #1 is borderline climbable and I’m guessing Cauliflower is toast. However, East Face Slabs, Hitchcock, and the Cleft are AMAZING right now. Well, Hitchcock is OK, but East Face Slabs (see Hero Ice video in other thread) and the Cleft are FAT and PLASTIC.

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 02, 2012, 06:53:54 AM
be aware that there are high avalanche conditions in all of the gullies, including Cinema, Shoestring and generally all of Mt Webster! I would also stay out of the Crawford Notch cascades...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 05, 2012, 03:23:12 PM
ran up & did Shoestring Gully this morning. started at 10:30 and back at the car at 1:30. it was 14 degrees, windy and snowing when I got to the pull-off. there was a LOT of snow in the upper gully, it had obviously sloughed Sunday. the tracks/steps were obliterated above the second ice bulge. I was planning on doing the runnel pitch that ends at the overlook, but I was on the left side of the gully & didn't want to traverse over right through a big snow pillow to get to it. however it was a major wallow from there to the top! [sigh] I stopped at the overlook for a snack and it was a bit windy on the ridge and you could see the snow up on Willard. the trail is well beat-out so it was a nice walk down. a couple of easy ways around the 3-4 icy spots.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: apbt1976 on March 05, 2012, 04:21:17 PM
More snow out there this past weekend than maybe all year. After Frankenstein i finished my day off solo on LHMW then Hitchcock and then the Cleft. I Barely needed crampons to climb the Cleft with all the snow piled up around the ice. Still lots of fun though.

I also thought about venturing up Shoestring but figured it would be a bad idea alone with all the fresh snow. Gives me a good idea though if i cant find a mid week partner. How was the runnel up top?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 05, 2012, 09:07:24 PM
runnel looked good...all the unconsolidated snow between it & me did not!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Joe_Re on March 07, 2012, 10:53:59 PM
Went over to Cinema but there was a party on the first pitch. It looked pretty baked and not super safe, so we climbed LHMW, a little beat out but still in fine shape, thin at the top out. My first time climbing it so maybe that's just how it is.

The Cleft, super fun, fat bulges, a fair amount of shit coming down the walls.

Upper Hitchcock, the deathcicles hanging above made us decide that maybe this warm sunny day wasn't the day for it, however it looked good.

And East Face Slabs Right, big and fat if you can get through the snow cone exterior.

Great day out there!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 10, 2012, 04:26:13 PM
I spoke to someone today (3/10) who had just done Shoestring. he said it was still pretty good & not running water.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on March 10, 2012, 08:26:27 PM
I saw a truck parked at the spot on my way back from Highland Center around 4pm. Lower gully looks horrible, all rock. Upper part looks OK but beware of being up there if the temps crest 32 degrees. Doesn’t take much for that gully to be a narrow bowling alley. Today was 31 degrees when I drove by at 4pm... pay attention to the temp on days like today...

That being said Standard and Dracula looked fat and awesome, LHMW looks great still... Silver Cascade and Flume have open water in them now... Hitchcock is probably still great with a watchful eye on the hanging stuff on Upper Hitchcock.. Cleft is still good with more snow than I like in it...  Elephant’s head is still quite doable, but getting baked...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 10, 2012, 10:09:44 PM
I was on Lower Hitchcock and LHMW on Thursday. what a mess in both cases... pouring water & lots of slush. rapping over the rock finish of Lower Hitchcock was a muddy waterfall!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on March 11, 2012, 12:04:18 PM
I took a hike out to Frankenstein yesterday and found a considerable amount of activity despite the recent temperatures and conditions. There was what appeared to be a class of 7-8 climbers up at Lost in the Forest, I counted 9 people (may have been 10 as I think someone was up in the woods belaying) on standard route. There were three parties on Dracula. Two were leaving as I got there and a second just starting up the right side (around 1:30-2:00PM). There was also a group of two climbers on Pegasus, heading toward the rock finish which still looks pretty nice! Some beautiful blue is on Standard. Oh, I passed another couple on their way in to do Dracula...it seemed like mid-season. Wish I could still swing a tool. Get after it while it is still out there...the clock is ticking!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on March 11, 2012, 06:08:21 PM
Saw 2 people high on Willey’s around 2PM. Car at the base of Shoestring again. Seriously, it was 45 degrees there. Must have been dodging rocks up there.

Cinema is a rushing stream at the base and lots of ice was raining down from there and somewhere near East Face Slabs.

Two people climbed Elephant Head in the PM... looking pretty undermined at this point.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DWT on April 11, 2012, 08:02:53 PM
Is Willard Dry?  Across the Universe?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Climber57r on April 12, 2012, 09:34:42 AM
It was dry last weekend. However with the last few days of showers it is questionable. It is south facing and tends to seep a day or 2 after rain on the upper pitches. Anyone been in the area this week?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 24, 2012, 05:05:58 PM
I went out climbing this morning with my old and dear friend Martin Avidan. While Frankenstein looked pretty pitiful today, only Standard looked really climbable, upper Crawford Notch is coming along nicely. We went up Lower Hitchcock and the Left Hand Monkey Wrench. Then we walked over to The Cleft and kept going right, eventually ending up at Read Between The Lines. It looked to be in excellent conditions, so I led that. The ice was fat and plastic and I thoroughly enjoyed it. We ended up thrashing up and left to the exit trail for Upper Hitchcock to the main Willard hiking trail and down. All in all it was an excellent day. The ice is coming in rapidly and in a few days there will be many options.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: apbt1976 on December 24, 2012, 06:49:35 PM
Nice i was just talking about that climb today with a friend descending off the dike. Great little climb indeed. Can you remind me what the line just to the left of it is?

I went out climbing this morning with my old and dear friend Martin Avidan. While Frankenstein looked pretty pitiful today, only Standard looked really climbable, upper Crawford Notch is coming along nicely. We went up Lower Hitchcock and the Left Hand Monkey Wrench. Then we walked over to The Cleft and kept going right, eventually ending up at Read Between The Lines. It looked to be in excellent conditions, so I led that. The ice was fat and plastic and I thoroughly enjoyed it. We ended up thrashing up and left to the exit trail for Upper Hitchcock to the main Willard hiking trail and down. All in all it was an excellent day. The ice is coming in rapidly and in a few days there will be many options.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 24, 2012, 10:14:50 PM
Nice i was just talking about that climb today with a friend descending off the dike. Great little climb indeed. Can you remind me what the line just to the left of it is?

I believe it's Thinking Of Janet
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 26, 2012, 05:00:35 PM
Rode up to Crawford Notch today, Wednesday. With the exception of Frankenstein, it's a lot looking better. Now that we have some snow we need some real cold to make the Amphitheater form up. It's going to be interesting o see what happens with the big snowstorm that's coming through tonight and tomorrow, and then the smaller snowstorms that are predicted right through the weekend.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 26, 2012, 07:47:54 PM
Nice i was just talking about that climb today with a friend descending off the dike. Great little climb indeed. Can you remind me what the line just to the left of it is?

I believe it's Thinking Of Janet

I have been wanting that climb for years... the bottom never seems to come in...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 26, 2012, 10:53:27 PM
I have been wanting that climb for years... the bottom never seems to come in...

I think it's doable now. the start is very thin, but it will go.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: WharfRat on December 26, 2012, 11:04:06 PM
I have been wanting that climb for years... the bottom never seems to come in...

I think it's doable now. the start is very thin, but it will go.

Good to know Al,

From what i have understand the start is always a bit of a mixed move or moves?

Just looked into it i am thinking of Damsel..

give me more info on Thinking of Janet if it is in....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 31, 2012, 10:52:58 AM
We've had consecutive days with temps well below freezing all day and it's made a huge difference in conditions. Lots of stuff is climbable now, even some things in the Frankenstein Amphitheater. I would still say that the Upper Notch is better, but that's changing every day. Is everything IN, I'm not sure I would say that, but if you want to climb ice, you can do it now.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 31, 2012, 07:09:26 PM
Except now it is really too cold for climbing ice ;)

Seriously... yesterday I saw people gearing up for Willey’s..... BRRRRRR.... TBH the ice will benefit from some warming... we went from great ice 3 days ago to cold, brittle, painful conditions... but the temps are supposed to moderate in the next couple days...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 31, 2012, 07:21:52 PM
it was 34 in the Valley today, I think that's pretty darn moderate...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: WharfRat on December 31, 2012, 09:53:56 PM
It was great yesterday and today imop. Got back to the car yesterday evening as the sun was setting and it was a balmy 6%. The wind whipping up the trestle was wicked, i actually ran in my ice boots pack and all the last 500 meters to the car. Over near gully #1 at 7am it really sucked. Over on the east face it was rather cozy though tbh.

This morning in Franconia Notch it was outright balmy at 18%!!

No complaints from me as we have ice to climb.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on December 31, 2012, 11:15:15 PM
but the temps are supposed to moderate in the next couple days...

Not sure where you're getting your weather reports, but everything I see says it gets colder over the next few days and even though it warms slightly by thur/fri it will still be colder then than it has been over the past couple of days.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2013, 06:56:22 AM
29 degrees here in the Valley at 6:53 AM on New Years day! according to Mt Washington it's going to be in the mid-20's today. here's their predictions for the rest of the week:

Wednesday: Partly sunny.
Highs: Upper 10s°F
Lows: Around 10 below°F

Thursday: Partly sunny becoming mostly cloudy.
Highs: Lower 20s°F
Lows: Around 5 above°F

Friday: Partly cloudy.
Highs: Lower 20s°F
Lows: 0-5 above°F
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on January 01, 2013, 09:12:01 AM
Did the Penguin yesterday...total blast. Standard is building quickly and the Garden is looking more than promising. Cold temps predicted for the rest of the week. Let the season begin! ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2013, 04:22:45 PM
I climbed Standard Left this morning (New Years Day) with Brad White. While it was crusty and brittle and quite cold, it was a perfect way to bring in the New Year. many things look good, with the unfortunate exception of the Frankenstein Amphitheater!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DWT on January 01, 2013, 05:22:12 PM
I climbed Standard Left this morning (New Years Day) with Brad White. While it was crusty and brittle and quite cold, it was a perfect way to bring in the New Year. many things look good, with the unfortunate exception of the Frankenstein Amphitheater!
What's the deal with the amphitheater?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2013, 08:30:13 PM
it's been too sunny in there and the ice isn't really forming well. Smear has some ice but it's thin and the ice on the ramp shows rock through it. the pillars on Pegasus are barely there and look like they are detached. there is ice on Chia but it's thin and the topout at the end of the ramp is rock! there is some ice on Cave Route, but none on Widow's Walk. Bob's Delight is a mess with rock in the middle and at the top.

it ain't happening yet!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2013, 08:33:37 PM
A bit early in the season for this, but I managed a 3 sport day today... Climbed Standard Left this morning, xc-skied out back with my son in the early afternoon and then got out for my first winter ride on the mountain bike with my new studded tires. The latter is a work in progress I will admit, but it was fun.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 03, 2013, 07:50:28 PM
Things are sure looking a LOT better now. Many things are IN and by the weekend I'll bet almost everything will be.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 04, 2013, 06:15:52 PM
pics on Chauvin FB show Chia "in" and Bob's getting done
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 05, 2013, 09:36:35 PM
FYI “Cocaine” looks in to me on the south face of Franks... never heard of anyone climb this and wish I had a day off to go up there... should be 4+... would love to hear if anyone goes up there....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 08, 2013, 10:06:48 PM
this afternoon I went up to Crawford Notch and ran up Cinema, hiked over to Upper Hitchcock and rapped down. it was 35 degrees when I left the car and about the same when I got back. It was actually too warm. the weather predictions are for even warmer temps all the way through the weekend! [SIGH]

1) walk down the tracks: 20 minutes
2) gear up: 5 minutes
3) climbing: 30 minutes
4) slog over to Lower Hitchcock: 40 minutes
   nobody had beat it out in the past day or two and the snow was really sticky. [yuck]
5) rap and walk out 30 minutes

all in all a nice lunchtime break...

saw Art Mooney on Snot Rocket on the walk out... He and his partner had climbed Gully #1 and Great Madness that morning.


Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 08, 2013, 10:22:58 PM
on Monday I went over to the North End and ran laps on Thresher and the pillars. It's all in pretty good shape right now. On the way back I walked along the cliff and checked out what was happening. Unicorn looks climbable, Remission is OUT, Repentance P1 is OK but the rest is OUT. I heard someone on Diagonal and it was Sam Bendroth and Elliot Gaddy. It was pouring water up there and quite warm in the sun. I'd be surprised if it hangs in there at this rate.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 10, 2013, 07:10:01 AM
Sheesh, it was drizzling and 39 degrees at 1 AM last night when I got home from my gig! It's about the same now without the rain. I knew it was going to be warmer, but didn't expect this.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 11, 2013, 07:38:09 AM
I get slammed when I say the ice isn't IN, when I think it's marginal, then I get slammed when I say it's good, but I don't predict that it's going to hell in a handbasket 'cause things are going to warm up. it's funny, in an annoying kind of way. right NOW in my NSHO the ice is in great shape almost everywhere. if you can manage it, maybe call in sick, get out there and go ice climbing.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 21, 2013, 03:44:24 PM
Silver Cascade was fun yesterday, a couple spots of open sprayers but you could stay on the thick ice... almost got my boot wet near the top... should be great after this cold snap, we had it to ourselves: http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/2013/01/21/ice-climbing-201/
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: xcrag_corex on January 22, 2013, 12:12:50 AM
Chilly day today up on Webster. Took Central to Greens Chasm. The rock move was non existent...totally covered in ice. The ice was a little brittle but got better the further you went up. First time up there and it won't be my last. what an outstanding setting 8)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on January 22, 2013, 07:37:24 AM
Very brittle conditions on Left Hand Monkey Wrench and the Cleft this past Sunday. We also climbed a very steep Read Between the Lines on Sunday...interesting conditions on that. Very boney start (as usual) with really only one section that had a thin ribbon of ice...most of it was totally unbonded and brittle...probably the first 20-25' or so, then the ice got progressively better. The last 10-12' was ver candled and brittle but is forming up nicely. A good Sunday pump...that's for sure.  ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on February 24, 2013, 11:24:03 AM
Climbed Shoestring solo on Saturday 2-23. It's a staircase of steps low and some very nice fat ice through the the middle and higher up - in the normal ice sections. Lots of people climbing - at least ten.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on March 11, 2013, 08:57:24 PM
Walk in the Forest was plastic fun today, a bit baked near the top. Standard Route right up the middle was like hooking a big plastic fun ladder with pre-drilled screw holes if you felt like stopping to place gear... very top starting to detach...

In coming rain could change everything...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 12, 2013, 12:07:28 PM
46 degrees and raining... SHEESH! this is exactly the same time it happened last year.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 15, 2013, 09:07:41 AM
WOW winter back with a vengeance... 20 degrees, 5-10 mile per hour breeze and sunny at 9:05 AM. It looks to be a chilly weekend and that means that whatever ice is out there, will likely remain in reasonable shape.

Enjoy...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 17, 2013, 05:03:15 PM
Went out to Frankenstein to climb Dracula with George Hurley on Sunday. 26 degrees, light breeze and sunny when we left Cathedral Ledge, 20 degrees, windy and blowing snow up in the Notch.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on March 17, 2013, 09:07:21 PM
Mt Willard today - 13 degrees, 30 mph winds and off and on snow showers. LHMW fat as was the Cleft. Everything else on upper tier was big and fat too. It should hang around a couple more weeks with the long range forecast.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 18, 2013, 06:20:05 AM
6:20 AM, Monday morning... 9 degrees F!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on March 18, 2013, 08:50:38 AM
Maybe some big snow tomorrow.  :D
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 19, 2013, 10:42:28 AM
It's been snowing up here in the Valley since very early this morning. I would say that we have 3 inches already and it shows no signs of letting up. Predictions are for 10-14 inches by Wednesday morning!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on March 29, 2013, 10:27:02 AM
Anyone have any idea how Shoestring is doing? Would like to get out for one last solo on Sunday. Have great weekends whatever everybody gets out on and gets done!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 29, 2013, 10:20:11 PM
My understanding is that it was snowy but good today, Friday. Direct finish was good as well.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on March 30, 2013, 07:05:42 PM
3 cars when I drove by at 4:30 pm below Showstring and it was 46 degrees at the base a very sunny up there... would expect random rock fall to be an issue today....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on November 29, 2013, 08:18:01 PM
Lots of stuff in up there. shoestring had tons of ice in it and would have taken 16s most of the way. the right hand Hourglass finish was excelent and would have been well protected.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2013, 12:05:21 AM
Standard at Frankenstein has been done, there is a lot of ice on Willard and interesting things on Webster. it's hard to say it's all IN, but lots of things are certainly climbable.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 01, 2013, 08:38:17 AM
If it takes screws and getting climbed dosen't that mean it's in?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2013, 05:29:56 PM
If it takes screws and getting climbed dosen't that mean it's in?

well - that's a topic for discussion, isn't it? I suppose it depends on if it's sport ice climbing or trad!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 01, 2013, 06:22:28 PM
Shoestring is definatly mid winter fat in the ice dept just no snow.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 01, 2013, 06:43:39 PM
Left Hand Monkey Wrench - bottom as big and fat as ever. Up thru corner was candled ice on right side with small pillows on the left so the stemming was delicate. Upper was running a bit and turf shots to the trees.

Upper Hitchcock - lots of ice all the way from the bottom with no snow. Maybe a yard wide through the middle section. Second pitch to the trees at the top for the walk off was fat.

All ice was pretty plastic and all three pitches took 16's where you needed them.

Upper East Face - fat.

Didn't walk over to the Cleft area but would imagine the same conditions. Elephants Head would be ok too.

A great day out and fabulous early conditions.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2013, 09:42:12 PM
Had the morning & early afternoon free so I took a drive up to Crawford Notch. I was planning on doing Shoestring, but there were 3 cars there and as I drove by someone walked out of the woods. I decided to pass on that. As I drove by Frankenstein Standard looked great, but there were 2 parties there. Nobody was on Willies, but I couldn't tell how thick it was. When I got to Willard there was a party on Gully #1 and nobody on Cinema, but Cinema looked thin. There was someone finishing Lower Hitchcock, but no one else visible so I figured that was the charm!

As I walked down the tracks I saw old footprints going up toward the slab that's right below The Cleft. Since that was my ultimate destination I headed up. The slab was nice climbing and dumped me out right at the base of The Cleft. It looked pretty good, as did Read Between The Lines. Just as I started up the Cleft Mark Synnott came up with a client. We chatted a bit and I went on up. He waited a bit and followed me, getting up just as I finished the step. The ice was really great, pretty much hero ice all the way up.

Someone had beat out the path to the main trail and that was nice. I popped on my MicroSpikes and zipped down the trail and back to the car quickly. 2 1/2 hours car to car for the first time out this season, not too bad.

On the way home I checked out Frankenstein and the stuff right of the Amphitheater looks generally good. Dropline is building as is Welcome To The Machine. The latter is especially cool since it hasn't come in for 2 years!

IMO for now ice season is IN!!!! Not everything is climbable, but enough is that it's well worth getting out there.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 01, 2013, 11:23:06 PM
Nice... IMO that little slab route directly below The Cleft is pretty under-rated, just like Left Hand Monkey Wrench was 5 years ago (and now it is super popular).

That slab route feeds right into the Cleft and makes an excellent 2+ adventure, an excellent alternative to Hitchcock when it is busy...

LHMW is good and all.. but requires a bit of thrashing to get to Cleft or Upper Hitchcock....

This slabby thing you climbed has a runoff directly from the Cleft that is easy(ier) to follow...

Wish it had a better name than “that slabby bit o’ ice below the Cleft”...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 02, 2013, 05:59:49 AM
That thrash from LHMW is even worse early in the season when the boulders are barely snow covered (especially when your still nursing a two month old ankle injury!).

And agree that "slab" needs a name! All in favor of DMan naming it - aye!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 02, 2013, 06:44:51 AM
I was talking with Synnott yesterday and we agreed that the slab is actually the 1st pitch of The Cleft.

The only downside of that slab, and the one further right, is the 200 yard bushwhack up to the base.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: punxnotdead on December 02, 2013, 10:08:43 AM
Did Landslide gully with Slink yesterday. Hardly any snow and plenty of ice made for a good day.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: andrewclimber on December 02, 2013, 10:54:56 AM
Had the morning & early afternoon free so I took a drive up to Crawford Notch. I was planning on doing Shoestring, but there were 3 cars there and as I drove by someone walked out of the woods. I decided to pass on that. As I drove by Frankenstein Standard looked great, but there were 2 parties there...

We were the second party on Standard on 12/1 - the conditions weren't difficult to climb but the ice was really wet and there was a steady stream running off the roof of the cave.  Screws took but were kind of dubious in slushy, wet ice.

We checked out the Amphitheater after and heard some very large chunks coming off Pegasus and Chia.

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 02, 2013, 12:34:15 PM
Hey Andrew, were you the party of 3?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: andrewclimber on December 02, 2013, 01:47:33 PM
Hey Andrew, were you the party of 3?

Nope, that was the group ahead of us, some nice folks from Portland.  They're standing on top of the cave in your photo (Daniel and I were in the cave waiting).
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 02, 2013, 05:26:15 PM
Hey Andrew, were you the party of 3?

Nope, that was the group ahead of us, some nice folks from Portland.  They're standing on top of the cave in your photo (Daniel and I were in the cave waiting).

cool... BTW I looked at you folks through binoculars and it looked as if there were a couple of picks and something else on the ice left of the cave. what was that?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 02, 2013, 09:11:34 PM
I was talking with Synnott yesterday and we agreed that the slab is actually the 1st pitch of The Cleft.

The only downside of that slab, and the one further right, is the 200 yard bushwhack up to the base.

It makes an excellent approach to The Cleft, but it is definitely NOT the 1st pitch of The Cleft. The Cleft is a very defined existing guidebook route... it would not do well to describe the slab as “the first pitch of The Cleft”.

Calling it “The Cleft Approach Slab” makes way more sense practically...

And the bushwhack is shorter an easier than LHMW, both approaching, and linking to The Cleft
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: snowleopard on December 03, 2013, 12:21:17 AM
I concur with Dman, definitely not the "first pitch of The Cleft", but an obvious great link up.

Jim Hagan (Wild Country circa 90's in Conway) used to call it "Sea of Green" due to the ice having
a green tint as seen from the road when we climbed it in "89.  We never could find anyone who had been
on it or any name for that matter, but always assumed someone must have done it prior to us.

It's a worthwhile outing on its own (especially handy as a crowd beater for Hitchcock or Cinema traffic jams)
Deserves to be named.  My vote would be for Hagan's
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 03, 2013, 05:06:28 AM
Damn - Jim Hagan. Great guy. An inspiration. Climbed with him when he lived in the Manchester area and worked at All Outdoors. And at times when he moved north. He left us too early. If Jim called it Sea of Green" back then I'm seconding for giving it that name now!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: frik on December 03, 2013, 10:19:45 AM
By all means, feel free to piss on everyone who climbed it in the 70's and thought it had already been done back then.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Jeff on December 03, 2013, 10:29:52 AM
Agree with frik-- every 200 feet of ice or 20 feet of rock you climb doesn't need a name to be worth doing! If it's in the Whites and visible from a road or a trail, it's probably been done before; just have fun doing it! :-*
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 03, 2013, 01:23:37 PM
Was at Frankenstein this morning with IMCS owner Brad White. With temps in the low 40's, needless to say everything was pouring water. We climbed the first pitch of Standard Route on the right side. That was good but the middle had large holes with lots of water pouring out PLUS there was ice coming off the upper fangs. With warm weather in the predictions for the next few days it may be best to not count on lower elevation climbing until it gets cold again. That said, with all the water in the system right now we should be in great shape as soon as the temps do drop.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 03, 2013, 09:26:10 PM
Agree with frik-- every 200 feet of ice or 20 feet of rock you climb doesn't need a name to be worth doing! If it's in the Whites and visible from a road or a trail, it's probably been done before; just have fun doing it! :-*

Doesn't need a name to be worth doing, but having a name can really help with directions no?

I'm glad to hear about the history, Hagan's, Sea of Green, that gives climbs life...

I don't think those names need to stick, since sure, someone probably climbed it before. So my geographically based "Slab Approach to The Cleft" describes what climb it is, is short enough, and shouldn't offend anyone.

"That Thing To The Right of LHMW That Everyone Is Arguing About On NEClimbs" also works...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: snowleopard on December 04, 2013, 01:04:58 AM
     Frik, nobody here is pissing on anybody from the 70's or any other decade for that matter.  Nor has anyone claimed who/when it was first climbed.

     Jeff, the anecdote about a line visible from a road/trail having probably been climbed is no great news flash.  Not to mention, everyone who
commented about names pretty much indicated they had "fun doing it" as a climb.

     The only point was to possibly call it something for the purpose of this conditions forum in order to indentify the line and its location.

     To be clear, I posted to simply contribute the only name I ever heard anyone call the route.  As stated in my post we assumed it was climbed prior
to us (never thought it a FA)  and tried to find any history to no avail (which by the way did include asking people who climbed there in the 70's)

     Sooner or later it will eventually have a name.  Jim Hagan called it "Sea of Green".  Jim would be more concerned with fun to give a rats ass about
what anyone else wants to call it.  I'm happy to keep calling it "the slabby flow north of Hitchcock and below The Cleft that Hagan called "Sea of Green"
as I've done while "just having fun doing it" occasionally for the last 25 years since I first did it with him.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: strandman on December 04, 2013, 10:54:33 AM
I don't agree with the "if it can be seen from the road " bit  MAYBE for ice, but certainly not for rock
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: frik on December 04, 2013, 04:42:30 PM
Back in the Pleistocene, we weren't allowed to name climbs we hadn't been in on the first ascent of.
I know... a stoopid rule, but we followed it for the most part.

Once a non-geographically descriptive name enters common usage, it pretty much stays there.
Eventually you have the situation where the 18th edition of Shades of Blue has it named and credited... incorrectly.

Also: Hey you kids, get off my lawn!

Also+: this is for Luke... the reference to "Shades of Blue" is a joke.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on December 04, 2013, 05:09:25 PM
I figure if someone did a route but didn't name/report it and someone else comes along and names it (whether claiming FKA or FA not knowing it was done) then that's actually fine.

In this case it seems like someone just had their own name for it and wasn't even trying to name it, but it would be fine IMO if the guidebook authors chose to use that name for future editions of the book formerly known as Shades of Blue.

But then again I'm not an old fart with nothing better to complain about like frik is!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: frik on December 05, 2013, 09:11:03 AM
What, don't i even rate a gif?

Also: you, are on my lawn!


Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on December 05, 2013, 09:34:59 AM
Sorry...

(http://www.paducahseniorcenter.org/Pictures/Funny/Dirty%20Old%20Man.gif)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: frik on December 05, 2013, 10:19:28 AM
I'm flattered, you would confuse me with Fred Becky
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on December 05, 2013, 02:16:23 PM
I was thinking Jed. But you are correct sir that chick looks way too old for Jed!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 05, 2013, 04:08:45 PM
Now that's funny!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: strandman on December 05, 2013, 05:04:34 PM
I'm flattered, you would confuse me with Fred Becky

Fred would have been reaching for a wallet,not her ass..just sayin'
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Jeff on December 05, 2013, 06:59:48 PM
First the wallet, then her ass! ;D
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 07, 2013, 10:19:23 PM
Things changed allot in a week. Most of the snow cover was gone or patchy. Shoestring had ice up top but would have been a thrash to get to. Lower Willard mostly gone. Upper Willard looked ok. There were a bunch of people headed to LHMW and upper tier.

Wound up driving to Dixville Notch and did Parasol Gully. It was cold and very windy! The bottom was a few inches thick (pin was first pro) with the ability to get a short screw in before the mostly fiat section. The ice was pretty brittle and dinner plating. The rest of the climb was in very good condition.

And had it to ourselves!

Oh - and stop at Sullivan's Irish Pub in Lancaster for good beer and an even better burger!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 08, 2013, 07:03:34 AM
That's about what I figured Mark. Nice you got up to Dixville and had a good day out. My buddy hiked Mt Crawford yesterday and the trail was a sheet of ice. No snow on the summit either. With the cold now in place stuff should reform quickly. I'm hoping to get out Tuesday or Wednesday.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 08, 2013, 06:02:29 PM
Wound up driving to Dixville Notch and did Parasol Gully.

Gotta tick this one off this year.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: darwined on December 08, 2013, 09:41:18 PM
FWIW Dracula and standard route looked reasonable from 302.  The amphitheater's going to need a "minute" to get back up to speed.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: ralbert20 on December 09, 2013, 07:42:03 PM
Did Willy's and Elephant head gully yesterday. Willy's was super fat, both the right and left variations. Elephant head was candled in the middle, but the right hand variation went at about 2+. We TR'd the middle, and knocked some of the candles down, but left most of it in tact. There were tons of people coming out of Willard when we were there, I have no idea what they were all doing, since it looked thin down low... Frankenstein was almost completely out, but it should rebuild with this current weather cycle.

It was too cold to take photos...

-Rob
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 11, 2013, 09:15:12 AM
saw pictures of Standard Route from yesterday, Tuesday 12/10. it looked very good.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 17, 2013, 03:33:13 PM
Went to Frankenstein this morning & climbed Cave Route. It was a brutally cold night, but the day started out totally bluebird clear. No one had been into the Amphitheater since the snows and I broke trail up and across to it. Cave was in surprisingly good shape, as was the Widow's Cave pillar just to the right. That said, one of the Widow's Walk daggers came down as I walked up! We met at 9:30 and it was about 0 degrees, but Cave Route was in the sun for about an hour and water was running and it was quite nice. Just as I rapped off after leading it clouds started coming in and temps plummeted, making the ice quite brittle. Another party came in and climbed Pegasus while I was doing the pillar. We both climbed the Widow's Pillar and it was great, after a very tricky start. When we left around 1pm the front was moving through and temps rose to about 12. All in all a worthwhile morning.

I did look at the Amphitheater ice and it's a lot better than it was last Thursday. While not fat it looks as if you can find stuff to do on any of the climbs there. Standard also looks like it's really filled in.

FWIW It started snowing around 2 and it's still coming down.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 21, 2013, 04:09:10 PM
IMCS guide Mike Wejchert soloed Welcome to the Machine on Thursday!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 21, 2013, 10:16:41 PM
Went up to Mt Willard today with a couple friends who hadn't been out yet. First as can be imagined - it was quite warm. 46 degrees when we finished up.

With the temp everything was very soft and also very wet.

LHMW - climbed to upper tier. Big and fat.

Upper Hitchock - was going to climb but the ice that hangs above looked like it could drop at any moment. Big and fat.

Upper east face left - lots of ice but not all the face was ice covered.

Upper east face right - big and fat.

Cleft - climbed to walk off. Again, same story. Big and fat but Al's favorite rock step had very little ice and was a grunt!

Plenty of ice all over with some climbable and some not. With that by the end of next week with the anticipated cold and all the water flow - things should be great.

The biggest surprise was that there's less snow in Crawford Notch on the ground than there is in Londonderry NH where I live. Bad news for the ski areas for Christmas week.

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 25, 2013, 09:59:42 PM
If you've been out the past day or 2 please post what you found here. I'm in Philly with the family so I don't know directly what's going on. ThnX
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 26, 2013, 09:25:17 AM
Al...climbed in Kinsman Notch Christmas Eve Day and climbs for the most part held up pretty well despite the weather. So I would imagine that Crawford Notch and elsewhere would be in similar shape. And its only gotten colder. Mark
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: rbirk on December 26, 2013, 01:23:25 PM
Elephant gully from yesterday (courtesy Ken Domino):
(https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1538870_10152499645767977_863409044_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: The other tomcat on December 26, 2013, 06:08:36 PM
Grafton amphitheater is in awesome shape!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: David_G48 on December 27, 2013, 06:56:05 PM
Frankenstein: Today the upper parking lot was filled with quite a number of cars parked in the lower lot. Standard, Walk in the Forest, Lost in the Forest, Dracula were all in with people on all of the routes. At the Amphitheater Pegasus and the Rock finish were in with people on the Rock Finish. The Hobbit Couloir looked marginal. Bob's Delight is not in says Marc Chauvin and he would know because he had just finished climbing it (it was very thin). Chia although not as fat as mid season was being climbed by several parties. The Smear looked as if it might go. Several parties were on The Cave Route and were entertained to some pretty large ice falls along Widow Walk.
Get out early if you plan to climb Saturday or Sunday as it will be pretty crowded.
There Al this is as good as it gets from me on reporting ice conditions. Hope you and your family are having fun in PA.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 27, 2013, 07:37:49 PM
ThnX David. I appreciate it a lot... Philly is good, back Saturday.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: xcrag_corex on December 29, 2013, 10:43:55 PM
Elephant gully from yesterday (courtesy Ken Domino):
(https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1538870_10152499645767977_863409044_n.jpg)
call me crazy... As I have never climbed this route but have passed it many times... But have those huge boulders always been there? As I drove by earlier today my partner and I discussed how we had never noticed them before.....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: rbirk on December 30, 2013, 12:10:42 AM
call me crazy... As I have never climbed this route but have passed it many times... But have those huge boulders always been there? As I drove by earlier today my partner and I discussed how we had never noticed them before.....

Looking at videos and pictures from last season, I don't see these boulders. I guess they came down very recently.

(https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/63285_536476436374152_447032390_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: goodrockrich on December 30, 2013, 05:46:34 AM
call me crazy... As I have never climbed this route but have passed it many times... But have those huge boulders always been there? As I drove by earlier today my partner and I discussed how we had never noticed them before.....

Looking at videos and pictures from last season, I don't see these boulders. I guess they came down very recently.

(https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/63285_536476436374152_447032390_n.jpg)
SCARY! !! ???

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 30, 2013, 07:56:59 AM
That big block came down in the spring. I've meant to mention it, but kept forgetting. I looked in there one day before Xmas to see if I could tell where it came out of, but couldn't tell. It's not really surprising since all that rock is crap!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on December 31, 2013, 03:32:17 PM
They fell during the Spring thaw after the season was over...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: xcrag_corex on December 31, 2013, 06:16:08 PM
Just curious.... Never noticed them before :)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 01, 2014, 06:17:54 PM
Finally got out today for some ice... latest I have ever started my ice season! Standard via the Window Rt/Right Hand variation, then Dracula... all awesome.

FYI I think if you want to do Standard Center you should skip the cave... the wall is SO big it is a real PITA IMO to down climb to start the 2nd pitch, and communication is a joke. A 60m will get you to a great stance above the cave where you can watch your partner for the whole pitch.... then one more pitch to the top.... if you wanna visit the cave consider the window route version...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: carp on January 07, 2014, 12:42:54 PM
Anyone been up to see how things in Crawford held up after the warm-up/rain? Thinking of heading up to Cinema or Willys tomorrow.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 07, 2014, 08:10:27 PM
Drove by today. Both look great. Rain washed away snow so they are in great ice climbing condition.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: rs27 on January 08, 2014, 05:13:14 PM
Anybody been on shoestring in the past few days? Looking to get on tomorrow.Thanks for any information.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 08, 2014, 08:34:30 PM
Drove by today... rocky down low... lots of ice up high... should be great (except for the approach being a bit “not filled in”... but I think the ice up high will be awesome, maybe a bit brittle.... let us know how your day goes!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 08, 2014, 08:56:47 PM
Cinema Looks Fat. TRYING TO RESIZE THE IMAGE

OK, can’t seem to resize with Wordpress to get it to be viewable on this site like I used to... weird... so direct link to photo instead:

http://davidlottmann.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/cinema1.jpg

Two 2 person rope teams and one soloist... busy for a Wednesday.

P.S. IMO Silver Cascade & Flume are as good as it gets right now with most the snow flushed out and lots of flash frozen new ice I think they are both in the best ice shape you could hope for...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: perswig on January 09, 2014, 05:27:17 AM
Anyone check out the numbered gullies this week?
Thanks.
Dale

edit:  TIA, Al, and thanks TC; we're looking at options for Sunday after the next deluge, trying to predict things like everyone else.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 09, 2014, 06:40:38 AM
Let you know later today. I'm heading up to Willard this morning.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: carp on January 09, 2014, 07:56:32 AM
Did Cinema yesterday. We were the upper party in the picture. It was in good shape though a little thin. Short screws were helpful. Lower Hitchcock was a shit show though.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: TC on January 09, 2014, 08:00:54 AM
Climbed on Willard yesterday.  Gully Number 1 is in great shape.  2 and 2.5 looked thin in spots but I only glanced at them on the way by.  We did Cauliflower to finish the day, that's in great shape as well.

Tom
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: xcrag_corex on January 09, 2014, 11:14:28 PM
Anyone been up in Green Chasm?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 10, 2014, 07:00:58 PM
Nope but I betcha it’s great right now.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: hobbsj on January 13, 2014, 09:48:13 AM
Anybody get out this weekend or today?   Looking to climb tomorrow and have no clue what would be good after all the rain, aside some of the old fat fall backs like standard.  Or, am I looking at a day of dry tooling?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 13, 2014, 03:52:04 PM
Was at North End today... Super fat plastic... Thresher & Goofers are in excellent shape... and I already recapped Franks from yesterday so there you have it...

Al needs to drop the IceCon back down to 4.23. ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DLottmann on January 13, 2014, 03:54:14 PM
From the other thread:

So Franks recap, pics to follow on my blog tomorrow night:

Smear is hanging tough... Pegasus colums are GONE, rock finish climbed today and is good (approach via Hobbit)...

Chia is hanging tough...

Cave is still IN, Bob’s is DONE

Trestle flows and Slabs are FAT and plastics...

Waterfall looks OK still...

Standard Left is OUT

Standard is still in but has open water in center line... best line IMO is up right side of the cave at 3+... upper tier took a hit but right column is still attached and strong... middle column is sketch and open/detached at top, easy exit out left is fine...

Dracula is FAT...

Descent trail is heinous, rappelling from partway down gully was our choice today...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 13, 2014, 09:19:43 PM
Micro spikes were a bare minimum on the trail down from shoestring today...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Flotsam on January 18, 2014, 07:36:44 PM
Micro spikes were a bare minimum on the trail down from shoestring today...

Wow TrMan that's really informative.  Thanks for the condition update.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 18, 2014, 09:38:48 PM
hey. it was icey as shit comming down the trail.  micro spikes give your calfs a break from real crampons but it was somewhat sketchy without real crampons. sorry if that was not helpfull.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Flotsam on January 20, 2014, 11:12:59 AM
hey. it was icey as shit comming down the trail.  micro spikes give your calfs a break from real crampons but it was somewhat sketchy without real crampons. sorry if that was not helpfull.

You missed the point, I was interested in climbing conditions. 
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on January 20, 2014, 11:22:41 AM
hey. it was icey as shit comming down the trail.  micro spikes give your calfs a break from real crampons but it was somewhat sketchy without real crampons. sorry if that was not helpfull.

You missed the point, I was interested in climbing conditions.

I heard you go to the TACO for that.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 20, 2014, 03:41:09 PM
I climbed it without a rope and it was fun. i am not super hard or anything so take that however you want and go have a look. it goes and is protectable.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 20, 2014, 07:27:55 PM
I was at the Barking Dog Crag on Sunday and at Frankenstein today - Monday. It is really surprising just how much ice there is still left in all the usual places. Frankenstein wasn't crowded, but thee were a fair number of folks there. While the Amphitheater is in poor shape, almost everything else is in excellent conditions. I climbed Standard Route and it is fat. We saw several parties on Dracula, a party on Waterfall, people on Walk In The Forest and a large group at the Trestle area.

The upcoming cold snap, while brutal, will almost assuredly kick things up a notch or perhaps two in a short period of time. With all the water in the system we may see some more interesting things form in unusual places. Heck, word has it that even Mean Mistreater was done on Friday!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 29, 2014, 09:14:10 PM
Everything with significant sun is toast. bunch of stuff still good to great. Smear, pegasus pillars and rock finish, standard and both sides of dracula still good to great. Rigt side of dracula seemed steeper than what I have experienced in the past. left side is stepped out but very interesting moves.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 30, 2014, 09:43:11 AM
With all the rain starting on Saturday and continuing through Wednesday all bets are off folks!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on April 02, 2014, 11:04:01 AM
Climbed LNMW, Upper Hitchcock and The Cleft on Tuesday. Everything was big and fat - with variable conditions. Hero ice, snow layered, milky and punky from the sun - a little bit of everything.

There were parties on Upper East Face Slabs Left (very sun baked they said) and Upper East Face Slabs left (very sun baked from standing at the base). The worse part of the day was all the post holing getting to LHMW (I would suggest lower Hitchcock to the traverse - which I didn't do) and getting up the the Mt Willard trail to come down. Be careful of tree wells - I sunk almost into mid chest and had only stepped a foot or so off the "beaten path."

At the parking lot at the end of the day it was 50 degrees! The cold beer and warm sun were great!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 23, 2014, 06:40:47 PM
Climbed LHMW yesterday in nice early season conditions. Crux was coming up lower Hitchcock and being the first to cross the boulder field getting over to LHMW. Made a beeline right done to tracks on way out.

Went back today and things really took a hit. LHMW and upper tier stuff was climbed. Hitchcock, Cleft, east face right.

Ran into a guy who's buddies did lower Hitchcock and upper yesterday. And Snot Rocket which when I walked buy yesterday looked liked it had been climbed.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DGoguen on November 23, 2014, 07:09:47 PM
I did Upper Hitchcock today and was surprised how big it was.
I did see someone standing at the base of Dracula. That seemed pretty hardcore.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 23, 2014, 07:41:47 PM
DG,

Did you hike out to the top and walk down the trail or did you rap? Ice was nice and plastic today (played on LHMW and off to the right).

Edit: And I should have asked, if you walked to the top how was the trail - easy to find this early?

Mark
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DGoguen on November 23, 2014, 08:26:22 PM
We topped out.
It's such a treat. I needed the walk just as much.

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on November 25, 2014, 01:35:25 PM
I would assume that after the rain it's mostly gone...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: DGoguen on November 25, 2014, 01:39:55 PM
Yeah I would think so as well.

Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Climber57r on November 28, 2014, 06:32:14 PM
First stop was the dike. With early morning snow you could not see. We cut a very long trail. Hopefully someone cuts a new one. Ended up by Moby. Long and short the ice was out. Getting an early start we went into Crawford. There was no ice to be found as expected after the warm temps. Settled for some mixed climbing.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: wiggins on November 29, 2014, 10:58:28 AM
thats funny, followed your trail yesterday and went up the talus to the base of moby, looking for anything traveresd the base threw waist deep snow, nothing on ice hose, dyke was bare, fafnir had some rad ice drips but the scratchy low stuff looked harder than us, so we headed to kinsman to look at some more wet rock. had to get the tools outa the house, they were going stir crazy....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on December 01, 2014, 07:33:21 AM
CLimbed LHMW on Saturday and Sunday. PArtner and I backed off it Saturday as the ice on the left side of the slab was completely unbonded and running. Sent it yesterday in less than optimal conditions...very little gear and once you pull the crux..there is little but loose rock and running water...even the turf was not yet frozen so the pick tended to just plow through. We broke trail up to upper hitchcock and found conditions in the gully to be about the same as we found below and decided it would be best left for another day. Couple more weeks should be fine...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2014, 09:00:45 AM
yah… anything in the lower elevations just isn't any good right now.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 06, 2014, 12:53:36 PM
Standard Route at Frankenstein is coming in pretty fast. I climbed it on Friday to the cave, left and right. The amphitheater is dry. Several parties climbed Hitchcock and the pillar to its right as well.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 06, 2014, 02:02:21 PM
Did you get snow over there? we got a decent 3-4 in so far...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Jeff on December 07, 2014, 08:20:07 AM
We got about 6"in Bartlett followed by rain and temps to 34 degrees or so-- should help things form up!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 07, 2014, 08:24:56 AM
We got about 5" of light powdery snow here in the lower Valley, followed by rain off and on all day! Good thing I got out and snowblowed first thing. There is a lot of ice on my deck and driveway this morning. With the cold that's coming in tonight, this should really help.
Title: Frankenstein
Post by: rpdoucette on December 15, 2014, 04:29:00 PM
Got out on the ice for the first time Sunday Dec 14.  Things look fairly bleak at Frankenstein.  Nothing in the Amphiteater looked leadable.  You could TR Cave Route but I wouldnt stand under anything else.  Pegasus Rock Finish pillar looked good, as always, but you'd have trouble getting to it.  Trestle slab looked fine, and was busy with an EMS group.  Standard was doable, and I only bottomed out one screw.  But the top is crap and we had to walk around the finish.  Hanging Gardens is building.  Better than staying home...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 15, 2014, 09:44:43 PM
apparently Standard was done today. looked fairly good. things are building.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Further on December 16, 2014, 12:43:54 PM
Did LHMW, Upper Hitchcock and East Face Slabs yesterday; see photo links below.  Had headed into Kinsman earlier in the AM, but really nothing to be had there where, according to my partner, there was climbable ice one week ago (see Southern Whites thread for Kinsman photos).

LHMW
http://postimg.org/image/p85oqjixx/

Upper Hitchcock
http://postimg.org/image/s4spqtorp/

East Face Slabs
http://postimg.org/image/ohcykrgkl/

Elephant's Head Gully
http://postimg.org/image/ms3vcp0v9/
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 16, 2014, 10:38:06 PM
Did LHMW, Upper Hitchcock and East Face Slabs yesterday; see photo links below.  Had headed into Kinsman earlier in the AM, but really nothing to be had there where, according to my partner, there was climbable ice one week ago (see Southern Whites thread for Kinsman photos).

very cool… thnX for posting the pix. I'm heading up there top climb on Thursday. will take more pix too. as long as we don't get a lot of rain we should be close to good to go this weekend.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on December 19, 2014, 10:49:20 PM
Drove through the Notch today. Definitely ice season is here in my book. Penguin 2nd Pitch is happening, Hobbit & rock finish Pegasus getting done, Dracula is in 4+ condition.... 1st pitch of Snotsicle looks great, I'll be looking at that closely tomorrow... We climbed Elephants Head at 4pm... full screws right to the top.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 21, 2014, 06:09:52 PM
Climbed LHMW to upper tier Saturday. Ice, snice and snow. Upper Hitchcock - ice, snice and snow. Certainly not as wide as would appear. Ice maybe two feet wide though the middle. Upper east face - ice, snice and snow. All routes took 13's when you might need them. Certainly sparse if looking for really good screws.

Climbed Elepahnt's Head Sunday. Snow down low but pretty nice ice from mid way to top out which was thin and a bit brittle. Certainly not fat by any means and made you think. Took 13's and stubby's. Went over to trestle gully. Nice. Then Ttr'd the vertical curtain which was solid.

A couple guys dud Snot Rocket which was pretty impressive.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 22, 2014, 04:07:54 PM
Paul & Joe Cormier and I climbed Snot Rocket this morning. it's in great shape right now. Paul led P1 and I did P2 (upper pillar). a picture is on the home page. in the past I've always led P1 in the left corner, but that wasn't IN so Paul did the middle right. there is also a very cool curtain all the way up to the roof.

I doubt it will hold up to lots of rain and warm temps tho.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 22, 2014, 05:54:25 PM
Nice job Al. Way to go! And cool pic!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 22, 2014, 09:44:25 PM
ThnX mark… good fun.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: old_school on December 23, 2014, 09:26:33 AM
Wish I could have gotten that this week...damned work!!!  ??? :-[ >:(
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on December 23, 2014, 01:11:40 PM
Walked by it Saturday and was really bummed I was not there to climb ice. That right hand side looked easy compared to normal conditions... great pic of you on P2!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 23, 2014, 01:18:00 PM
Dave - thnX… actually IMNSHO P1 was harder than P2. while P2 was slightly overhanging and wanted to swing me left into the wall, P1 was significantly longer and surprisingly vertical.

as is usually the case "it's always steeper and harder than it looks!"
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on December 23, 2014, 04:21:13 PM
Interesting. I've only led it once, and followed the first pitch which looked hard to protect... I got the pillar, which I could almost bear hug, and was quite nervous. I didn't put a screw in until I was where I thought the pillar was bonded to the wall above. I'm guessing it wasn't really IN when I did it LOL.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 31, 2014, 08:07:20 PM
Shoestring was fat and plastic today.  Good neve between the bulges to give your calfs a rest. Direct finish was fat but very brittle and tricky topout.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on December 31, 2014, 08:24:56 PM
Shoestring was fat and plastic today.  Good neve between the bulges to give your calfs a rest. Direct finish was fat but very brittle and tricky topout.

+1

Looks like everything is recovering nicely.  Snot Rocket and Gully#1 should be good to go any minute now
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 31, 2014, 09:28:41 PM
I thought Cinema looked a bit thin for screws? I don't know that side of the road all that well in winter so not much use to you guys. pluss I was on a mission running late and did not really slow down and have a real look.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2015, 04:35:59 PM
Snot Rocket looks good, Cinema IMNSHO it's not there.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 01, 2015, 08:50:13 PM
I thought Cinema looked a bit thin for screws? I don't know that side of the road all that well in winter so not much use to you guys. pluss I was on a mission running late and did not really slow down and have a real look.

Usually a late bloomer, not surprised... it will still be a couple weeks before Cinema is "in" but I'm sure LHMW & Cleft are pretty sweet about now...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 02, 2015, 01:53:04 PM

Usually a late bloomer, not surprised... it will still be a couple weeks before Cinema is "in" but I'm sure LHMW & Cleft are pretty sweet about now...

Yes, both are fine, as is other stuff like Read Between The Lines.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: David_G48 on January 02, 2015, 03:41:44 PM
Went up to Crawford Notch this AM (1/02/2015) full on winter storm, cold, windy and visibility no greater than 200'. The parking lot was full and the snow was building up so we went to Frankenstein.
Frankenstein was only getting a light snow with reduced wind speeds which led to sun in the afternoon and almost no wind.
Standard, Pegasus rock finish, Standard, Trestle Cut, Practice Slabs, The Penguin, Dracula right side, Waterfall, Walk in the Forest, and Lost in the Forest were all being climbed as were some other lesser known dribbles of ice. The last column of ice on Pegasus The Rock Finsh before you get on the rock was in harder than usual conditions. The same could be said of Penguin. Dracula left was very wet but the right was in good condition. Dropline was about 2/3 formed.
It was busy! Boy when you are retired you forget about these holiday weekends. We only did one climb but did walk to and talk to the folks that did the climbs. Will go back next week when the traffic thins out.
Hope this helps.
Have a great New Year!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on January 03, 2015, 09:01:33 PM
Climbed Coffin today with rock buttress start. Both pitches pretty hard. I seconded the route. Partner with two very nice leads. Pegasus with rock finish in good too. All other climbs that were mentioned yesterday were in pretty decent shape and building.

Talked to a friend who said Willard was a zoo. At 9:30 he said there were 9 parties waiting at LHMW!!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Mike Grobicki on January 08, 2015, 09:15:42 PM
It was not warm in Shoestring Gully today. Ice was good though.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on January 16, 2015, 05:44:22 PM
The ice out at The Captain is in great shape right now.  The approach is also a nearly solid boot pack. 

We left from the Kanc at 2am and Skied Sawyer River Trail to, Hancock Notch Trail, at the first stream crossing we made a short bushwhack and crossed the Sawyer River to hook up with the logging road that takes you into the valley.  We saw the sunrise from the base of the climbs.  It was a magical day in the mountains.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on April 17, 2015, 09:22:01 AM
All done folks... It's time for to ROCK on the rock!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 17, 2015, 01:23:27 PM
took the ice clippers off the harness today. full and satisfing season 8)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on April 17, 2015, 02:27:03 PM
took the ice clippers off the harness today. full and satisfing season 8)

+++++

So you don't have a separate harness?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 17, 2015, 11:48:19 PM
?     have a few really old ratty retired rigs and one decent harness for climbing.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: lukeweiss on November 25, 2015, 04:10:26 PM
Climbed shoestring today with Alex Texeira.
The approach was almost totally dry, very little snow, pretty easy. The regular start was free of snow with a bit of ice scattered around. About 30-40' above the start there was some ice, and we mostly simul solo'd the rest of the way before roping up for the rock finish exit, which Alex solo'd and I followed.
There was no snow at all on the entire route, but there was some really decent ice. The best bit was a 20-30' vertical section about 2/3rds of the way up. Lots of ice though, in general, more than in "normal" conditions due to lack of snow.
The rock finish was sketchy, lots of loose stuff.
I looked down at the WI 3 finish and it looked fantastic.
All in all, this was an awesome way to climb shoestring. No snow, decent, though thin ice, and a beautiful day.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 25, 2015, 04:55:23 PM
Way to go and thanks for the beta! I drove up with intent on a solo but at this point in the season I'd like it to have more ice / snow! Your description is how it looked like through binoculars!

With that thru binoculars:

LHMW woulda been ok
Other stuff on Willard - no for the most part
Elephants Head - mixed and thin but probably coulda been climbed
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: lukeweiss on November 25, 2015, 05:08:41 PM
It would have been worth your time, unless you really like snow. :)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 25, 2015, 05:37:53 PM
...of course I'd prefer ice over snow! It just looked a bit "scratchy" for a first day out solo (though I have done it in these condition before). Again, way to go!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: lukeweiss on November 25, 2015, 06:21:46 PM
Thanks.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on November 25, 2015, 07:52:33 PM
Just got an email from someone who soloed Pinnacle last night! He said it was surprisingly good. I would guess that's all relative tho...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: lukeweiss on November 25, 2015, 10:48:35 PM
Alex did it yesterday. Said there was good uninterrupted ice the whole way.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 30, 2015, 07:49:13 PM
Drove by Frankenstein - stopped probably were Al stops for pics and looked thru binoculars - certainly less ice than in last weeks pics. Same for Crawford Notch and Franconia Notch. Allot less ice. Way less than when I did this same drive by last Wednesday.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2015, 09:14:12 AM
Drove by Frankenstein - stopped probably were Al stops for pics and looked thru binoculars - certainly less ice than in last weeks pics. Same for Crawford Notch and Franconia Notch. Allot less ice. Way less than when I did this same drive by last Wednesday.

not at all surprised... it was quite warm for several days. cooled down now, but we need snow to make it happen in the lower elevations.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: z.st.jules on December 09, 2015, 03:40:02 PM
went through crawford this morning. jack shit up there
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 17, 2015, 12:54:48 PM
SIGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: neiceclimber on December 17, 2015, 03:05:49 PM
I cant remember a year where I haven't skied or climbed at least once by now. All of my free time has been on the wrong days. You all can blame me I bought new skis this October, then waxed them before snow was in the forecast and passed up on ridicously cheap season passes to both Sugarbush and Stowe.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 17, 2015, 03:45:06 PM
...I bought new skis this October, then waxed them before snow was in the forecast and passed up on ridicously cheap season passes to both Sugarbush and Stowe.

all your fault!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: eyebolter on December 17, 2015, 07:17:00 PM
...I bought new skis this October, then waxed them before snow was in the forecast and passed up on ridicously cheap season passes to both Sugarbush and Stowe.

all your fault!

Yeah thanks, still haven't sent my dyno project so hoping for a few more sunny days like yesterday!   The sun dried the seep up and it was full on killer conditions.   For rock that is. 
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: kenreville on December 17, 2015, 10:57:05 PM
a silver lining in every cloud
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 18, 2015, 08:58:15 AM
a silver lining in every cloud

always looking for those my friend...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on December 18, 2015, 10:04:36 AM
Has there been any snow in the higher elevations with all the wet stuff this week?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: kenreville on December 18, 2015, 02:42:45 PM
Nope.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on December 18, 2015, 06:03:28 PM
60's for Christmas  :o
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: eyebolter on December 18, 2015, 07:12:16 PM
60's for Christmas  :o
well showers and 59 for christmas eve here.  Christmas:

Friday: Mostly sunny skies. High 47F. Winds WNW at 15 to 25 mph.

If true i am going to escape and go rock climbing after the pagan morning holiday.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Nick Grant on December 18, 2015, 08:56:05 PM
Hmmm . . .  What would be some good routes for a warm Pagan holiday?  I'll probably be at Rumney so these are some of the climbs (taken from my to-do list) that might be good:

Nanook of the North at Yellowknife (He was a pagan.)
The Romulan Route at Starship Enterprise (Romulans are pagans, for sure.)
Sargent Schultz at Triple Corners (All Nazis are pagans.)
Stairway to Heaven at Main Cliff (Led Zeppelin played pagan music.)
The Yid Kid at Summit Cliff (Jews are definitely not pagans, but they also don't celebrate Christmas.)

That should keep me busy.  Bring on the warm weather!  Three cheers for climate change!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 29, 2015, 12:32:11 PM
My guess is that while some stuff may be doable at Frankenstein or Mt Willard on Wednesday, we have a good possibility to have reasonable climbable ice in the lower elevations by Thursday.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on January 04, 2016, 07:16:53 PM
Solo'd Shoestring today. Awesome neve and pretty good ice though brittle. Parked and crossed at Webster Cliff trail, turned left and is completely packed out to the start of the climbing.

Willard - numbered gullies forming and this weeks cold should do the trick. Cinema had a bit of ice but not much. Hitch, LHMW and upper tier climbs looked ok. EHG fatter than last week.

Cannon - dike and Fafnir looked good. Ace looked close. Big Slide ok.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: iclimb on January 04, 2016, 07:26:18 PM
What about willy's slide?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on January 04, 2016, 08:14:56 PM
...didn't look. Would imagine ice but also snow. Sorry...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 05, 2016, 08:26:56 AM
Willard was a zoo on sunday. One party told me it was the only ice  in Nh that was in. I presume this opinion was  formed because the only NH condition report on NEICE was for willard.   Hogwash and  exactly what I dislike about  internet condition reports.  in reality pretty much any place that has water running has climbable ice right now.  If you keep track of the weather daily in the areas that you wish to climb it is quite predictable what you will find. additionaly the latest glowing condition report for a single climb or area is exactly where the hoards will be......

A general  report that gives users a broad variety of options is much better than  a report that singles out a single area or climb.  people are lemmings and if you plant a seed it gets nutty out there.....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on January 05, 2016, 04:03:09 PM
Tradman,

I think Al's updates are pretty good for giving a view of what's in based on where he drives and takes pics.

Whenever I update I try and update for wherever I've driven and what I see. Hence, Willard and Cannon yesterday.

With that though I think you're right about people don't want to figure things out on their own. There's allot of ice out there. Last Saturday me and my partner were the only ones where we went - but we spent allot of time in the car to get there. I watched the weather and figured it was worth the drive.

Mark
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 05, 2016, 06:43:30 PM
I don't know that they don't want to do the homework as much as they are simply lemmings. someone says that such and such a climb is fat and 20 people decide to do it the next day.

Al's report is good because he generaly gives an outline of the  general area rather than just comment on the single climb that he may have done that day.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: strandman on January 06, 2016, 11:32:54 AM
Ice is the same as rock....everybody goes to the same climbs..always


Like Trad said..if it runs with water, it's frozen now
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: slink on January 06, 2016, 12:45:06 PM
Now Nick you should know by now if it's the only reported ice it would be a zoo. You should have gone exploring instead. Give me a call sometime I'm back now
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 06, 2016, 09:33:25 PM
Cool! will do.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 07, 2016, 11:07:02 PM
Thanks for the kind words guys. My Thursday's in the winter involve first checking what's happening at Cathedral & the Valley ice in general, then driving up through Crawford Notch stopping at all the places along the way where I can get a good view and picture of the various climbs. After doing it for 10+ years I have very particular places picked out where I know I can get a usable picture. Once I've done all the pictures I make a decision about what I'm going to climb and I do it. Last week was the Trestle Slab 'cause that's all Brad wanted to do, today was Walk In The Forest. For all I know next week could be Dropline, if it's IN!  Finally, I head home to download the pictures to my computer, edit and upload them to Facebook and the NEClimbs server, write the weekly Report, post it on FB and NEClimbs and then put it into MailChimp to send it out to the world. This whole process generally takes all day, starting at 9 am and ending whenever I get done, often 11 or so. I figure that's the only way I can make a reasonable assessment of the state-o-the-ice.

For those who may be interested, the camera I use is the original Canon Digital Rebel DSLR with a 300mmCanon lens that has image stabilization. There's lots better stuff, but it still works just fine for this purpose.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 08, 2016, 05:13:19 PM
I've always appreciated the work you put into the ice report Al. Thank you. Seriously... for a decade I've used it to plan my trips.

For a weekend update for folks I climbed on Willard today. There is plenty of ice to get on and people should be creative to spread out. The numbered gullies ain't looking that hot, and Cinema looks like crap... but Silver Cascade & Flume are good to go, Elephant Head obviously getting done a lot. Trestle Gully good. Hitchcock great (put that helmet on for the lower section eh?)

LHMW is fat & plastic. East Face Slabs Right & Left are great. Didn't get over to The Cleft but I hear that chockstone move is giving people some type 2 fun. Willy's is probably pretty darn good by now... think I'm heading there tomorrow with a course... anyways... pics in my last post in my sig. if interested.

See you out there.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 11, 2016, 04:02:46 PM
Brad and I drove up into the Notch today (Monday) to survey the state of things. While we had low expectations, the fact that there was still ice on Goofers, Black Pudding and Barking Dog gave us hope. It actually turns out that in spite of what we went through yesterday - temps in the upper 40's and 1.9" of rain - much of the ice survived! You can see pictures in the Ice Report area. We were totally amazed to see people on Standard Route and at Willies! Temps were in the mid 20's but it's not what we would do, go figure... I would at least wait a couple of days to give things a chance to settle and rebound.

Temps are already dropping significantly (24 in No Co with flurries) and the weather is going to be cold all this week. My guess is that we'll have pretty solid ice to climb by or maybe before the weekend. Stay tuned!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: danf on January 11, 2016, 07:29:06 PM
Barking dog had ice?  Any idea when it originally formed?  I didn't slow down to look, but I didn't see anything noticeable last Thursday on my drive by there on my way to Attitash. I'll be through there on Thursdays this winter, so I will keep looking.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 11, 2016, 08:35:45 PM
Barking dog had ice?  Any idea when it originally formed? 

there was ice in there before the rains and there was some ice in there today.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: strandman on January 12, 2016, 10:31:58 AM
Speaking of..does Across the Universe ever  get just ice ?  Just thinking...................
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 12, 2016, 03:47:22 PM
Climbed LHMW to Cleft today. I'll post conditions and small TR in a couple hours.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 12, 2016, 05:39:18 PM
Climbed LHMW to Cleft today. I'll post conditions and small TR in a couple hours.

Posted now. http://nealpinestart.com/2016/01/13/state-of-the-ice-crawford-notch/
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 13, 2016, 02:32:02 PM
Speaking of..does Across the Universe ever  get just ice ?  Just thinking...................

I think it did...once!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 13, 2016, 07:28:03 PM
 most likly  it was the water streaks left of the milky way pitch and not the actual rock pitch....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 14, 2016, 08:56:53 AM
most likly  it was the water streaks left of the milky way pitch and not the actual rock pitch....

actually to the right I think... maybe on Sales Pitch.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 14, 2016, 08:56:50 PM
In general Frankenstein is pretty good. top outs can be sketchy in general as the turf is NOT frozen! the Amphitheater is poor, tho Hobbit and Pegasus rock finish are getting done.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: petr07 on January 22, 2016, 10:55:10 PM
Anyone know the condition of arethusa?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 23, 2016, 02:44:37 AM
Anyone know the condition of arethusa?

Not directly, however I saw a picture from late last week an it looked mostly good. My guess is that with this continued cold, it should be climb able.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 23, 2016, 09:44:05 AM
any climb in VT or nh that  has a reliable water sorce is in right now.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on January 23, 2016, 09:24:04 PM
any climb in VT or nh that  has a reliable water sorce is in right now.

Some of the water sources at Frankenstein are a little too reliable this year.  Took a nice shower on smear today ;D. Pegasus didn't look much different, so we moseyed through the circuit
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 23, 2016, 09:44:06 PM
Hit Franks today

Arethusa looks great, a FB friend hiked in there today and I was impressed with the shot. Only 2 "climbers" who apparently hiked up, rappelled it, and left  ???  She said it was a ghost town up there, surprising with the full parking lot

Smear, Pegasus Rock Finish, Hobbit, Chia, Blobs, Cave Route, and Bob's all climbed today and in good shape.

Trestle Cut and slab looked good.

Walk In The Forest Lost in the woods looked great (large party there today)

Waterfall looked good with multiple ascents.

Standard was quite crowded for most the morning (we got the first pitch in around 2pm).

Penguin looks good, even the 1st pitch

Dracula looks good, a couple parties climbed it today.

Hanging Gardens growing, a party of 3 TR'd whatever the easiest climb there is called...

We spent some time on the slab to the right of the descent trail...

Couple photos on my TR blog post: http://nealpinestart.com/2016/01/24/winter-climbing-101-course-frankenstein-cliffs/

Dracula had a couple ascents
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: petr07 on January 25, 2016, 11:30:45 AM
Anyone know the condition of arethusa?

Not directly, however I saw a picture from late last week an it looked mostly good. My guess is that with this continued cold, it should be climb able.

Cool.  Thanks.  Ended up on Willard this past weekend instead but might head there next weekend.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: slink on January 25, 2016, 01:37:27 PM
Shoestring gets done all the time. If you want to step it up a notch try the pilgrimage. Its in good shape and the low snow makes for easier travel than waist deep snow. Also enjoy the bushwhack off it is a classic NH route ;D
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 25, 2016, 08:53:05 PM
Shoestring gets done all the time. If you want to step it up a notch try the pilgrimage. Its in good shape and the low snow makes for easier travel than waist deep snow. Also enjoy the bushwhack off it is a classic NH route ;D

This route is pretty good and a bit under-rated for a grade 3 (should be more popular). It is way closer to the road than all the other Webster Gullies. Only a pitch to a pitch and a half of "roped" climbing if need be. I solo'd it many years ago car to car in just over 2 hours... Might run up there tomorrow if I get a chance. Anyways, don't think about bushwacking to the Webster Trail, way to far and quite a bit higher. Just schwack down climbers left of the route.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 26, 2016, 03:43:44 PM
Climbed Smear's first pitch and Hobbit's 1st pitch yesterday. Hard Rane had a French party lead then TR it. Looks really fat right now. Chia got a good baking at the top and we listened to Widows Walk crash down all day. Top of Bobs looked pretty baked and detached. Today a quick run up a hooked out (already) Goofers. Will post pics later tonight.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: David_G48 on January 26, 2016, 04:11:54 PM
Today Dracula left way too wet for humans to climb; by 10 AM Dracula right very wet, climbable unless you don't like feeling that you were in a light rain. Bob's very thin as was Smear Direct, Hobbit looked good as did Pegasus Rock Finish, Pegasus Columns very thin; Trestle looked good but, somewhat baked. The sun has done a number on the ice in spite of this many climbs  still in decent condition. Standard still looked very good and the Penguin was being climbed.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 26, 2016, 07:08:38 PM
It was surprisingly warm today, about 40° at Cathedral
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: grubbers on January 26, 2016, 09:46:56 PM
45* at the Davis Path trailhead this afternoon. Texaco was in pretty good shape overall, but everything was dripping heavily by the time we left. Anyone know the name of the big, steep pillar that comes in up the hill from Doubting Thomas and The Lowe Down?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: z.st.jules on February 27, 2016, 07:44:52 PM
Shoestring in the best shape i've ever seen it today.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on November 01, 2016, 06:02:16 PM
Is there snow on the ground in the lower elevations of the whites?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: z.st.jules on November 01, 2016, 07:25:30 PM
Is there snow on the ground in the lower elevations of the whites?

Afraid not.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on November 01, 2016, 07:34:13 PM
Thank you Z
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on November 03, 2016, 11:59:06 AM
There has been snow on Mt Washington, but nothing in the lower elevations at all. Warm and sunny on Wednesday and rain all day Thursday!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on November 05, 2016, 10:04:59 AM
what is li like up high?  I was thinking of lafayete tomorrow and wondering if winter mtn boots are required?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: z.st.jules on November 05, 2016, 03:28:07 PM
what is li like up high?  I was thinking of lafayete tomorrow and wondering if winter mtn boots are required?

Looks like its snowing up on the presi's right now. Tomorrow is looking like its gonna be pretty chilly up high. Tough call.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on November 05, 2016, 04:01:26 PM
don't like beating them up just for hikeing but certainly sounds like real winter boots  might be the call up high. should be pretty fun:)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 05, 2016, 09:40:05 PM
I hiked around lonesome lake today - precip the whole time. Rain, gropple and a bit of snow. Clouds were just above the lake and some very short glimpses it looked like a bit more snow higher up. You could probably get by with good hiking boots as opposed to mountain boots unless you need for warmth. I would reccomend micro spikes though especially with things freezing - mud, leaves on mud and of course any snow.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on November 06, 2016, 05:36:53 PM
did lafette to haystack and was glad I wore the mountain boots. Could have done it in timberlands but it would have been added stress worrying about how cold and wet my feet might get. also glad to have micro spikes.  It could have been and was done without micro spikes but I certainly apperciated them 8)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on November 06, 2016, 08:38:19 PM
I think that going out up high without microspikes this time of year would be foolish. and besides, they weigh darn close to nothing...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: xcrag_corex on November 06, 2016, 09:16:55 PM
Did Eisenhower today. I rocked EVOS and some of the other guys rocked hikers. Didn't end up wearing micro spikes but definitely had them along for the ride. It's winter up in them there hills!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 08, 2016, 08:57:54 PM
Did LHMW and the Cleft today. LHMW was ok. Three stubbies. Cleft first pitch was thin and the second pitch chockstone was a bitch. Both routes had portions of snow covered rock to negotiate.

Guided party was on east face slabs right and that looked ok. Can't vouch for ice conditions. Didn't walk over to Hitchcock to look. Other stuff forming. Elephants Head getting there.

Things should be a bit better by the weekend.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 09, 2016, 06:09:57 AM
it really got colder last night and I'm confident that things will form up really fast.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 10, 2016, 09:08:41 PM
Shoestring was climbed by multiple parties today! Not that there was a ton of ice on it!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 11, 2016, 08:49:47 AM
Most of shoestring was super thin and dry. I was supprised that the pond at Wileys was empty. never seen that before.... the direct finish was fat but dry and abused at the exit move. the climb was absolutly mobbed. not really enough ice for protection or good belays but there were partys pitching it out with hikers crawling all arround them. No one got killed and we all had a grand time  8)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: kenreville on December 11, 2016, 08:15:57 PM
Count me out of that shit. Rather paint something and watch it dry.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on December 11, 2016, 09:07:20 PM
It's going to be an interesting season. Record growth in the sport followed by a really lean year on most accounts...

Some recommendations for folks starting out (or been doing it forever)

Be nice to each other out there. Talk about what route/line you are heading for. Be patient. Don't assume anything. Understand experienced climbers might safely climb a line near you without putting you are risk (Standard has at least 3 viable routes if you don't zigzag your way up it)

Seek out less travelled climbs on weekends (Pilgrimage is a really nice 3- that is much closer to the road than it looks and never gets climbed). Have fun. Make friends. Don't make your girlfriend hate her first time ice climbing.

Keep it fun, stay safe(ish), and see you out there.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 12, 2016, 06:56:32 AM
some of the folks I encountered on sat... the passing move on the left was actually a bit spicy ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: neiceclimber on December 12, 2016, 08:28:22 AM
I once encountered a bottleneck in the same spot, took the left line up into the trees thinking I could just skirt the cliffs and drop back into the gully, didn't work out. The bushwhack from there to the trail was some of the worse I've ever encountered. Judging by the lack of cars along the road and the fading light it was also not the fastest.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 12, 2016, 12:54:40 PM
I saw that line straight up to the trees but followed the guys in front of me and the move tip toeing back on to the the route without dropping loose gravel on the folks below was engageing.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: JBro on December 12, 2016, 05:52:33 PM
Nothing wrong with sprinkling them with a little gravel. People love that alpine shit.



Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 12, 2016, 06:27:59 PM
Yes. I get it now. We were practiceing for European climbing ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 18, 2016, 03:23:43 PM
Great Madness was climbed on Saturday in what some might consider to be "full conditions".
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: grubbers on December 19, 2016, 08:25:25 PM
Mt. Willard is holding up pretty well after the rain on Sunday.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 21, 2016, 11:08:27 AM
Willard is looking really good right now, as is Frankenstein. I think that the rain helped, especially since it got cold immediately after. It's actually been quite cold at night and moderate and sunny during the day. Perfect conditions for building ice!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 21, 2016, 07:43:46 PM
I am sure Kinsman, Webster and most other places are coming along nicely as well. .. no need to all flock to Willard just because it's in the news.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 27, 2016, 11:21:41 AM
I am sure Kinsman, Webster and most other places are coming along nicely as well. .. no need to all flock to Willard just because it's in the news.

true dat! Kinsman is forming up very well. when it chills down after this warm spell, things are going to be great!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 27, 2016, 08:04:49 PM
most things , most everywhere are in.  spread the love arround and don't just go where the latest condition report sends you....
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 28, 2016, 09:29:41 PM
I that in general things are only fair, as of Wednesday. I climbed Pegasus Rock Finish, Hobbit and Chia today. Pegasus in general was out, but the rock finish was good. Hobbit was very hard, and probably only doable by very strong climbers. Chia was mediocre at best. we did the ramp and there were places where it was quite hollow, one tricky place that required a rock step across and the top out was very thin. The pillars on the main part of Pegasus and some of the daggers in the middle of Chia make me uncomfortable. If you are climbing there, I would move through quickly, or avoid them altogether! Cave Route had been in, but is now assuredly out, as is Bob's Delight. I didn't look at Smear up close, but from the trestle it looked in poor shape. I saw pictures of Dracula and Standard from today and spoke to someone who climbed and they both are good.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 28, 2016, 11:06:27 PM
it all took a hit from the thaw and things are funky but it still goes if you get after it ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: markvnh on December 29, 2016, 08:39:39 AM
Taking tradmans advice along with having dealt with "holiday crowds" at the popular areas over the years - made the drive up to Dixville Notch. Plus this would be easy on my elbow! Parasol Gully probably hadn't been climbed in a long time. Good thing it's only a couple hundred yards from the road as the snow was waist deep without any sign of anyone being up recently. Climb was in great shape though the ice was quite brittle (also cold, snow and wind all day). The descent gully was a bit tedious and spooky as there was a crust of wind slab.

Anyone looking for "Scottish" style climbing can probably find some new mixed lines (I know there's a couple mixed lines).

Figured I'd post up in Crawford's section...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 29, 2016, 11:28:21 AM
it all took a hit from the thaw and things are funky but it still goes if you get after it ;)

while that's true, I just don't quite agree with this... ;-)

Quote
most things, most everywhere are in.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 29, 2016, 12:18:56 PM
what i mean is that most areas have pleanty of ice to climb and in is relative. if you need 22cm screws all day long a lot of stuff that gets climbed regularly is never in... 
Mark, i got spooked over there by the snow a few times..  Seems like that trail is never broken in ;)
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 29, 2016, 12:21:22 PM
I think its time to accept the fact that 13cm is the new standard screw..
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 29, 2016, 12:42:26 PM
I think its time to accept the fact that 13cm is the new standard screw..

WELL, I don't disagree with that!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on January 04, 2017, 10:20:40 PM
Great day at Franks today. From the bridge Amphitheater looked like:

Smear: Good to go
Pegasus: Rock Finish Good, direct finish meh
Hobbit: Good
Chia: Still thin on regular top out, direct finish looks good
Cave Route kinda baked
Bob's is OUT

Trestle flows look good, and Trestle slabs (multiple parties TRing today)

Waterfall looks good.

Standard Left looks pretty good. Standard was fun plastic hooking before we traversed into Penguin.

Penguin 2nd pitch is a little funky but fun, 2nd half is great

Hanging Gardens need more time (please let the pillars grow)

Dracula right is do-able but could use the cold weather coming.

Dracula let was super fun cauliflower hooking but a shower mid-pitch with todays warm temps, and the top-out was iffy so I stepped right at the top to better ice.

All in all awesome shape for first week of January!

Some video from our day today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGq-Dant74M

Happy climbing!
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on February 19, 2017, 04:30:07 PM
From the road it looked like the numbered gullys were toasted today?
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: pappy on February 21, 2017, 11:41:23 AM
After this weekend and the coming week it's all done except for maybe fat north facing stuff like NSOP. Really bummed, as just found a hidden route at the new area we've been developing that is going to be mega classic--a 150' 5. But faces south. It was hanging in on Sat. afternoon though I sure as hell wasn't going to get on it with 45 degree temps and sunny. I'm sure it's toast now.  :-[
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on February 21, 2017, 05:39:08 PM
Yup. its pretty dismal.. be relegated to grade 3 in the shade more than likly by the end of the week........
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on February 23, 2017, 05:41:31 PM
From the road it looked like the numbered gullys were toasted today?

done for...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 25, 2017, 03:17:13 PM
the ice has held up surprisingly well, in part because it's been quite chilly at night and cloudy during the day. I gotta wonder how long it's going to stick around in the lower elevations, but we can hope...
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on March 30, 2017, 07:00:12 AM
drove up to the notch yesterday, Wednesday, and it was cool & flurries. going back up today and it will be interesting to see how it is holding up.
Title: Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on March 30, 2017, 02:15:38 PM
Great running into you and George Al! Video of George floating up Within Reason:

https://youtu.be/dPa8eXUIO0s (https://youtu.be/dPa8eXUIO0s)