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General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: markvnh on October 01, 2013, 07:30:18 PM

Title: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: markvnh on October 01, 2013, 07:30:18 PM
I've climbed the Eaglet a half dozen times or so over the years but it's been at least ten years or longer since the last time. I went up today and did the first pitch as described on Mt. Project and damn the moves by the pin on the first pitch sure were pretty hard. Harder than I remembered. Plus there was a second pin out right that wasn't even used.

So that got me to thinking was I actually on the right first pitch. Webster's first edition guide says access west gulley to the base of the chimney. Which is the way I probably climbed it the first time I climbed it as it's a bit of a thrash. The other times I have climbed rock to the gulley but again do not remember it being as hard as it felt today. Webster's guide also has a South Face route without a grade but with almost the same description as MP. I also thought it might have been the start to Peregrine Aręte but it's not.

So does anybody know what the grade of the first pitch is that I did today and is that the normal start these days? Or did I miss something somewhere.

Or I guess it could be I'm just getting older (and a bit jet lagged having just gotten home from a business trip to Belgium).

Thanks everyone for your feedback.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: tim03303 on October 01, 2013, 09:07:19 PM
I've always climbed as you described.  Up on some blocky moves, a stretching step left and then up with a couple side pulls, 5.6ish.  The second pin (had some tat last time) is a red herring.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: DLottmann on October 01, 2013, 09:10:16 PM
That first pitch is awkward 5.7 with the crux moves pretty close to the ground, then eases up a bit as it gets into a bit of a right facing corner with some loose stuff towards the end... A good pitch I think and I usually do it that way now rather than soloing up the scrappy 4th class gully, which would be wise to use a rope on if not "feeling it". As for more specific beta, all I can recall is after clipping the 1st pin look to traverse left a bit as soon as possible... it's a bit heady, but all the holds are there....

EDIT: yup, good photo posted by Tim
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: lucky luke on October 02, 2013, 01:17:21 AM
I've climbed the Eaglet a half dozen times or so over the years but it's been at least ten years or longer since the last time. [...] Harder than I remembered. Plus there was a second pin out right that wasn't even used.[...]Thanks everyone for your feedback.

you too getting old

sniff!!!
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: markvnh on October 02, 2013, 05:09:53 AM
Thanks guys! At least I was on the right pitch. And my gear was the same as in Tim's pic. I'd just would have liked to find his 5.6 ish moves! Maybe I climbed a bit too high before traversing left. Now I've just got to remember to traverse left sooner the next time.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: tradmanclimbz on October 02, 2013, 06:41:33 AM
Pretty sure The pin out right is the start of the Ed Webster 9+
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: perswig on October 02, 2013, 09:08:42 AM
Is this out in Franconia Notch?  With Salt Packed Pig Sack or something like that (Jon Sykes/J. Cunningham route?)?
That crag looks too fun, alpine-y with loose stuff and good views. 

Cool pic.
Dale
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: DLottmann on October 02, 2013, 12:47:12 PM
Is this out in Franconia Notch?  With Salt Packed Pig Sack or something like that (Jon Sykes/J. Cunningham route?)?
That crag looks too fun, alpine-y with loose stuff and good views. 

Cool pic.
Dale

This is the only free standing spire in New Hampshire and a must do! A great moderate day out there for me that I've repeated many times is:

1) Route 66.... rap
2) Salt Pack Pig Sack... rap
3) Finish climbing Eaglet via original start + West Chimney

oh and...

4) Woodstock Brewery for happy hour.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: markvnh on October 02, 2013, 02:00:07 PM
...no climbing trip to Franconia Notch or anywhere else for that matter is complete if the drive home take you down 93 south and you don't stop at the Woodstock Brewery! Great beer and half price appetizers between 3:00 and 5:00!
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: DLottmann on October 02, 2013, 03:38:34 PM
...Great beer and half price appetizers between 3:00 and 5:00!

I time my trail-head time and bail time based off this fact...
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: slink on October 02, 2013, 03:44:52 PM
 d man there is a 45-55 ft free standing pillar in the woods not sure if it has been climbed yet. M Sprague would know.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: M_Sprague on October 02, 2013, 03:50:12 PM
I would?  I am drawing a blank at the moment.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: frik on October 02, 2013, 04:30:05 PM
Roger's spire? - hello!

also: the beer at woostock station is blandly boring in a repetitively redundant manner.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: DLottmann on October 02, 2013, 05:26:42 PM
Roger's spire? - hello!

also: the beer at woostock station is blandly boring in a repetitively redundant manner.

Roger' Spire, is a detached "flake" at best... really shouldn't be called "Spire", but meh...

I agree Woodstock Brew is getting quite blah, but the half-off apps are still worth the stop!
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: markvnh on October 03, 2013, 12:01:00 PM
...back on topic - thanks for the feedback and setting me straight! I was on the right first pitch but just went at it a little bit differently than I probably should have.
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: terminusnout on October 05, 2013, 07:55:43 PM
ever climb any of the rock around where the Garcia-Vega ice route is?
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: markvnh on October 06, 2013, 07:56:57 AM
I know there are some sport climbs if you walk further uphill from the Eaglet. I believe this is called the High Tension Area from what I've found online. Probably John Sykes and friends put these up.

Are there routes near Garcia-Vega?
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: DLottmann on October 06, 2013, 04:18:53 PM
I know there are some sport climbs if you walk further uphill from the Eaglet. I believe this is called the High Tension Area from what I've found online. Probably John Sykes and friends put these up.

Are there routes near Garcia-Vega?

I think this area is also called "The Long Wall" in Sykes guidebook... I have never been over to Garcua Vega and don't know if there are routes over there
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: smartpig on October 07, 2013, 10:28:42 PM

Buzzsaw
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Re: Eaglet
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2008, 10:15:09 PM »
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The sport routes that you asked about are on what is now known as the Falcon Wall. Starting from left to right is the route closest to the chimney goes at 5.12d or 5.13a following a flairing crack rap bolted by John Mallery. Next is a 5.11d/5.12a, also Mallery. Next in line is a hard 5.12c, again Mallery. The easyest route on the wall was done by me rope solo and goes at 5.10c, ground up. I gave John the ok to rap bolt it. A moment of weakness. The last route on the face just before the arret is Johns and goes at 5.12b/c. The arret goes free at 5.10 and was first climbed by Larry Boemhler and me at 5.9 A1, and I freed it belayed by Chris Marks. Even with the bolts it has some very alpine {scary} climbing on it. I highly recommend it if you love adventure. Syko P.S. Left of Garcia Vega {ice climb} are five 5.9s. four climbed by me and one by Chuck Woodman, the farthest left.       
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Re: Eaglet
« Reply #13 on: September 20, 2008, 07:59:40 PM »
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Buzzsaw,
Are the 5.9's you speak of between Garcia Vega and The Eaglet or are they the Pig Sack to Route 66?
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Re: Eaglet
« Reply #14 on: September 20, 2008, 09:57:21 PM »
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These five routes all rated 5.9R are just left of Garcia Vega. The closest one to Garcia Vega is two eighty foot pitches. the first pitch is bolted and climbs to a two bolt belay. The second pitch is very alpine and R rated. The next route left is 180 feet long and has the most runout section up high. The next climb is also 180 feet long and one should carry a small selection of pins to climb it as safely as possible. The fourth climb is a face to crack climb that is runout on the bottom and fun crack climbing on the top. The last climb is Chuck Woodman's climb and starts with bolts and finishes on nice crack climbing. It was the first route done on this wall and is the first climb that one passes on the way to Garcia Vega and the Falcon Wall. To get there walk past the Eaglet fifty feet then turn right and walk across loose talus to Chucks route and all the rest. Safe climbing, Syko   
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: Admin Al on October 08, 2013, 07:03:27 AM
ThnX for pulling all that info together Jamie...
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: bubbalee on December 04, 2013, 05:10:08 PM
you cannot climb the eaglet and not do the second pitch 5.7 on the wall out behind the eaglet. traverse across the saddle just below the summit to a hanging belay. then head straight up improbable looking crack with fantastic holds and good gear with excellent exposure and many slight variations all super fun 150ft+. walk up to the right to a hidden anchor(down over edge) at the very upper end of cliff near the gully topout
Title: Re: Eaglet - 1st Pitch
Post by: Admin Al on December 05, 2013, 04:56:10 PM
+++