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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: eric8 on July 02, 2013, 02:36:13 pm

Title: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: eric8 on July 02, 2013, 02:36:13 pm
Maybe this has been discussed before but I couldn't find it.  But what are the coldest/windest places to climb in the summer months? (in NE) I know lots of places that get shade, orange crush in the morning at rumney, wall of early morning light at farley in the afternoon, catherdal in the afternoon, etc. but I have to be honest when it is 90 and humid even the shade with no breeze isn't enough for me to climb comfortably (I'm a big guy, I have to much insulation).  I think wild river might be the best place that is consistently good in hot weather but is also a 4 hour drive for me, so not really day trip-able.  So what are the best places (coldest/most exposed to wind) you can think of???
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: eyebolter on July 02, 2013, 04:17:45 pm
Pinnacle on Mt. Washington, Otter Cliffs and Great Head in Acadia.

Other than that an air conditioned gym.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: DGoguen on July 02, 2013, 05:06:30 pm
Mt Willard, not exactly in the shade but breezy, can offer some relief but you will still be dripping sweat onto your slab moves.
Across the Universe even has a shade tree to belay the last pitch.

North Bald Cap has been really breezy each time I've been there as well.
Keep heading North but I don't think cold happens for a while.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: kenreville on July 02, 2013, 06:24:15 pm
When it is 90 and humid it's pretty much gonna suck. No matter your size.

Just sayin'.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: DGoguen on July 02, 2013, 07:05:36 pm
When it is 90 and humid it's pretty much gonna suck.

Some days are better left to swimming and Ice Cream.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: DLottmann on July 02, 2013, 09:17:28 pm
Precipice in Acadia, Cannon, Katahdin, Huntington, Echo Crag in Franconia (lots of shade but all single pitch), I’ve only been to Camden once but I would imagine it is cooler than most inland areas... On brutal days Saco Crag is nice as you can jump in the river almost every other climb (but they are short climbs)...

May go without saying but wearing 50 SPF and climbing with a 100oz CamelBak with iced watered down Gatorade or equivalent can get me through just about anything...

Cotton T-shirts are a must in the hot & humid as well... even the best synthetics “feel” warmer than thin cotton to me...
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: xcrag_corex on July 02, 2013, 09:20:02 pm
Remember ...... Climbing in that heat makes the swimming and ice cream that much better after ;)
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: frik on July 03, 2013, 09:18:08 am
Willard has got to be one of the last places i'd want to be on on a hot day... faces directly south and those slabs get baked.  No place really is good, but profile in Franconia notch may be the best bet... mostly in the shade and west facing. Of course being in the shade causes it to take a while to dry out... there is a lake across the road!
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: MT on July 03, 2013, 09:44:36 am
Original start of WG to the 5.8 variation. In the shade most of the way and a refrigerated breeze blowing up your shorts most of the way. Can be a cluster on the wrong day/at the wrong time. Alpine start would fix that.

Mt Oscar has always seemed pretty cool to me most times I've climbed there, but not sure on the aspect. At least the belays are in the shade. X the street, Sugarloaf gets sun, but always seems to get a breeze. Of course, there's an obligatory hike up. For both, though, there's the creek right there to keep the brews cold and for a post-climb (or pre-climb?) dip.

Good luck.

Mike
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: smartpig on July 03, 2013, 03:19:46 pm
Early A.M. west to north facing.
P.M. switch it around to east and still north facing. 
Pop quiz: which cliffs face west or north in the Whites?
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: the_other_andy on July 03, 2013, 03:25:27 pm
Head up to 10,000 feet and.. oh, wait a minute wrong place. :P
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: DLottmann on July 03, 2013, 05:08:02 pm
Willard has got to be one of the last places i'd want to be on on a hot day... faces directly south and those slabs get baked.  No place really is good, but profile in Franconia notch may be the best bet... mostly in the shade and west facing. Of course being in the shade causes it to take a while to dry out... there is a lake across the road!

Great suggestions, and I find Profile dries super quick do to it having a breeze almost constantly and there isn't much run-off above (opposed to the ever seeping Echo below)
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: kenreville on July 03, 2013, 09:56:24 pm
Early A.M. west to north facing.
P.M. switch it around to east and still north facing. 
Pop quiz: which cliffs face west or north in the Whites?

Stop it man. You're making my head hurt. Not sure which way I'm facing right now....
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: bennybrew on July 05, 2013, 06:04:16 am
otter cliffs gets shade midmorning(ish). add to that it is feet from the ocean it stays so it stays relatively cool.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: Admin Al on July 05, 2013, 08:43:10 am
In general the Geriatric Walls at Humphreys are in the shade at the base and a few of the climbs are fully shaded.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: DLottmann on July 05, 2013, 05:35:55 pm
In general the Geriatric Walls at Humphreys are in the shade at the base and a few of the climbs are fully shaded.

Which is why they take FOREVER to dry following rain....
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: Jeff on July 05, 2013, 07:27:36 pm
Actually Dave, that's not so true, except in exceptional monsoon times such as this June-now! They were dry 3 weeks ago on a day when Miss Saigon was running water.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: Admin Al on July 06, 2013, 04:49:25 pm
Which is why they take FOREVER to dry following rain....

not really that bad. I can almost always find something to climb down there, unless it's monsoon season as Jeff pointed out.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: terminusnout on July 07, 2013, 07:34:51 pm
mahoosuc notch, climb perfect rock in the sun then get down in the talus to where ice still lives.....
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: pappy on July 07, 2013, 10:21:55 pm
mahoosuc notch, climb perfect rock in the sun then get down in the talus to where ice still lives.....

I did the AT before I was a climber, I've often wondered since if Mahoosuc had climbing and what it was like. Any ice in the winter?
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: terminusnout on July 08, 2013, 07:44:16 am
There are several routes in there, some mixed lines on the north facing wall and very obvious trad lines on the south facing wall.  If you go farther south toward the NH/ME border there is a small but high quality cliff right off the AT right around a mile into Maine from the border. In NH you have the obvious North Bald Cap. I always wondered if Gentian Swamp Walls would yield any good rock routes in the summer or fall. Above the upper pond there are some small compact cliffs guarded by krummholtz.......who knows?
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: JBro on July 08, 2013, 09:16:28 am
mahoosuc notch, climb perfect rock in the sun then get down in the talus to where ice still lives.....

I did the AT before I was a climber, I've often wondered since if Mahoosuc had climbing and what it was like. Any ice in the winter?

PDF right on this site:  http://www.neclimbs.com/other/MahoosucNotch.pdf

Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: M_Sprague on July 08, 2013, 09:23:15 am
Not the coldest, but maybe the best - The Rumney swimming hole. Thanks in large part to our Canadian friends I think you would have to go to a world famous dance troupe to find as many perfectly formed female rear ends in one spot as were there this weekend. The water was great too. It made all the slimy hot routes running with water worth it.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: DaveR on July 08, 2013, 10:49:49 am
Not the coldest, but maybe the best - The Rumney swimming hole. Thanks in large part to our Canadian friends I think you would have to go to a world famous dance troupe to find as many perfectly formed female rear ends in one spot as were there this weekend. The water was great too. It made all the slimy hot routes running with water worth it.


:)
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: the_other_andy on July 08, 2013, 03:42:59 pm
Saco Crag late in the day. Quick rte, quick dip, repeat.
Title: Re: Coldest places to climb in NE
Post by: eyebolter on July 08, 2013, 04:54:08 pm
Another option is to find yourself a good quarry, although a good quarry is hard to find.  Here is the granite classic "Double Barrel," V4 in the Berkshires that climbs two drill holes that you undercling in the overhang and then grab above on the face.   "Death Arete" V2 is to the left, although I'm the only knucklehead to do it for "FA glory" since if you fall off left you are talus food.