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General => Ice & Winter Climbing => Topic started by: Admin Al on December 01, 2012, 06:37:50 pm

Title: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2012, 06:37:50 pm
cold and snow...heck, seems like winter to me.  :P  I had made plans over a week ago to go to Portsmouth to visit friends and ride the MTB in the woods, so I did that. 24-27 degrees and light snow all day. perfect! ended our 12.5 mile ride with a trip up Mt A. man was that fun...

what did you do?
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: eyebolter on December 01, 2012, 07:30:28 pm
Woke up to snow and 24 so went to the hadley gym with mrs eyebolter and the baby.  I did see plenty of hot chicks (where were they 30 years ago?) and i onsighted the pink route, so it wasn't a total waste. Hoping to get outside on the rocks tommorrow, but well see. 
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: DWT on December 01, 2012, 07:32:07 pm
I woke up REAL late this morn.  We took a cruise up Willey's Slide in the afternoon.  It was plastic fantastic!  It would've taken 16's the whole way. We just didn't place many because the ice felt so damn sticky.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2012, 07:42:23 pm
that's
...Willey's Slide in the afternoon.  It was plastic fantastic!  It would've taken 16's the whole way.

that's good to know. had anyone gone up there earlier?
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: sneoh on December 01, 2012, 08:06:36 pm
Went to the gym, caught up briefly with old friends, set a route (which I am sure Ward will be able to onsight on lead - .11c or so).  Then participated in a charity Climbathon put on by Urban Peaks.  I can barely lift my arms now and need to ice my poor fingers tonight.

It was a good workout day.  Too busy to notice the hot young chicks! My loss.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: DWT on December 01, 2012, 08:55:20 pm
that's
...Willey's Slide in the afternoon.  It was plastic fantastic!  It would've taken 16's the whole way.

that's good to know. had anyone gone up there earlier?

No tracks in the snow.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Admin Al on December 02, 2012, 07:20:30 am
DWT: how was the walk off? Did you come down the trail climber's left?
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: DGoguen on December 02, 2012, 09:24:03 am
Not really the weekend but Friday, went up to do Pinnacle. While my partner was making a deposit in the Pinkham center I looked at the sign in.
A party of three had signed out at 4:00am to climb Pinnacle. We hit the trail at 8:30 arriving at the base at 10:30. The other party had just arrived minutes before (apparently 6 1/2 hours on the approach)  and were starting on the snow a full pitch below the ice. One party member had clearly never ice climbed. We moved on. They signed out at 8:45pm. Holy cow, that's some persistence.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Admin Al on December 02, 2012, 10:37:19 am
so Dave, what did you end up doing up there on Friday? I've heard good things about Odell.

6 1/2 hour approach...sheesh!
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: DGoguen on December 02, 2012, 02:52:10 pm
so Dave, what did you end up doing up there on Friday? I've heard good things about Odell.

6 1/2 hour approach...sheesh!

In fairness to the other party, the talus was pretty bad, but maybe not that bad.
Odells looked very good.
We Headed down from Pinnacle and missed the cutoff over to Odells and ended back at the boulders, realizing what we had done we headed back up to the cutoff,
sat, had a bite and started laughing. It was 1:00 and we were kinda beat up, good wake up call on the physical conditioning.
In retrospect I wish I had just walked up the snow slope and started climbing the right side of Pinnacle and be done with it.


Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: old_school on December 02, 2012, 03:36:05 pm
Soloed Left Hand Monkey Wrench to the Cleft. Great day up there...cold as hell though.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Nico on December 02, 2012, 04:58:52 pm
Climbed the big slab on the south side of Grafton. Pretty good ice, used stubbies most of the way.

Special Thanks to my climbing partner, who in a very nice move hooked my thigh loop with his ax grip as I slid by him on low angle ice in the walk off, stopping what would have been a hairy crash into trees. Thanks, Ben . . .
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: danf on December 02, 2012, 09:06:20 pm
I sat in an excavator all of Saturday setting boulders to keep the banks retained along the parking spot in my driveway...  Then had a company dinner (and a NICE Christmas bonus) in Portsmouth Saturday night.  Came home and drank with friends until about 1-2 am and spent this morning recovering before we took the kids ice skating this afternoon. :D  Before I came home I spent a few dollars of the bonus on some gear at EMS....

No climbing, but still a good weekend!
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Admin Al on December 02, 2012, 10:21:13 pm
No climbing, but still a good weekend!

Sounds like a very good, and productive, weekend!
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: xcrag_corex on December 02, 2012, 10:47:05 pm
Work Saturday followed by potluck dinner with friends and catchup on Sons of Anarchy (almost up to date) and some Alpine adventuring in the Big Slide/ Short Stack area on the side of Lafayette :)
... back to the grind tomorrow!!!
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: M_Sprague on December 03, 2012, 09:13:21 am
I headed up Saturday morning for some bouldering at Pawtuckaway, but by the time I was passing through norther RI amd Mass it was blowing snow. Everybody bailed, so I ended up checking out the new Evolution gym in Concord and setting routes all weekend. It looks like it will be a great, well thought out gym. Almost all the walls are at least slightly overhanging, so there are no dead walls that end up being collectors of boring routes, yet there are still routes of all grades. It sounds like the grand opening will be in January, but they are hoping to be open for climbing this coming weekend.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: sneoh on December 03, 2012, 10:22:32 am
I headed up Saturday morning for some bouldering at Pawtuckaway, but by the time I was passing through norther RI amd Mass it was blowing snow. Everybody bailed, so I ended up checking out the new Evolution gym in Concord and setting routes all weekend. It looks like it will be a great, well thought out gym. Almost all the walls are at least slightly overhanging, so there are no dead walls that end up being collectors of boring routes, yet there are still routes of all grades. It sounds like the grand opening will be in January, but they are hoping to be open for climbing this coming weekend.
Thanks for the scoop, Mark.  I will look for your routes when I visit.
What's wrong with vertical or off-vertical walls?  Routes on these are only boring because the setters do not bother to make them interesting.  I am sure Kyle and PeteK are fully capable of setting interesting slabby routes!  You might remember some of Whitey's more creative creations on BRG slabs!  One of my fave wall to set at Metro is slight off-vertical to slight overhung; you get routes of two different character on one rope!
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: M_Sprague on December 03, 2012, 11:28:05 am
There is one steep slab section where I set a 5.9. Vertical walls can have good routes, but in so many gyms they end up being the throw-away walls that nobody really wants to set on.  Slabs can be good, but in a gym setting they have to be changed frequently as they get dirty and polished quickly.

Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: sneoh on December 03, 2012, 12:17:36 pm
Slabs can be good, but in a gym setting they have to be changed frequently as they get dirty and polished quickly.
Yup, that is correct and often a neglect at most gyms.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Dave7 on December 03, 2012, 02:40:15 pm
Though a native Massachusettsian, I currently live in NY.  A buddy and I took a ride up to the Daks and spent a full day climbing ice at Pitchoff and Cascade Mountain.  Things were thin, but it sure was great to get out for the first time this season.  We are looking forward to coming to the North Conway area in a couple weeks to climb Yale/Pinnacle/ or Odells!!
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: mechanicalchris on December 03, 2012, 02:58:27 pm
Pinkham Cascade... mostly sparks and slush at a comedic angle but exciting none-the-less.

Wish ice season was 6 months not 3  :'(

Gatta make every weekend count!

Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: meclimber on December 03, 2012, 04:43:36 pm
watched the baby girl and dreamed about new routes...
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: DWT on December 03, 2012, 06:01:14 pm
DWT: how was the walk off? Did you come down the trail climber's left?

No, two raps and a short downclimb.  We started down the walk-off climbers left and had a change of heart.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: SidleK on December 04, 2012, 05:02:13 pm
Black Dike on Sunday...crux pitch is rather thin...maybe 1 or 2 screws that whole pitch
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Admin Al on December 04, 2012, 05:30:42 pm
Black Dike on Sunday...crux pitch is rather thin...maybe 1 or 2 screws that whole pitch

very cool... I saw pix of Kevin Mahoney up there as well. the talus must be for crap.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: strandman on December 04, 2012, 05:57:24 pm
watched the baby girl and dreamed about new routes...

And bear Notch won't be open for 6 months    :'(
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: Girard on December 05, 2012, 12:02:50 am
Did Hitchcock Gully and then the East Face Slab Right. Some good frozen dirt to swing at in the Gully. :) The Slab was pretty thin on the right side but both were very climbable without any dinner plating. Good amount of cauliflower on the bottom left of the slab.
Title: Re: so what did you do this weekend? 12/1/2012
Post by: bubbalee on December 05, 2012, 12:04:01 pm
syke, lovel and  i went to dixville notch and did parasol gully which was very nice indeed if not short. we were going to do some mixed rock stuff but forgot the pins, turf screws, and rock gear. the winter mixed lines up there are incredible makes you feel like your in scotland.