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General => Conditions => Topic started by: mopowers on December 21, 2011, 12:19:53 pm

Title: Willoughby
Post by: mopowers on December 21, 2011, 12:19:53 pm
20 Below, Center and Left Tablet would of been in good condition early in the am yesterday. I hiked the base around 3:00pm and was sprinting to dodge the falling ice. It was all falling apart. The rest of the cliff had only very limited ice up high. With warm temps and rain today and tomorrow it does not look good for any time soon.

 
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on December 21, 2011, 12:31:16 pm
David - thanks for the information. I am not surprised at all. here's hoping for some consistent cold temps soon...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: slacker on December 21, 2011, 02:11:54 pm
Since the ice climbing is no good Mopwoers maybe you should come over to Red Rocks. Strange but there is even ice climbing in on Mt Charleston. 
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: mopowers on January 12, 2012, 10:04:11 am
 01/12/2012  Conditions are pretty sad for January.

Tablets- Have not seen them but heard good things

Crazy Diamond- Nope

Extensive Homology- Nope, would be hard to even get there from Glass.

Glass- Several good lines on the second pitch, first pitch was much too thin for screws as of 1/11. Can traverse in from 20 Below.

20 Below- Good and fat. LOTS of running water. Besides the tablets probably the only route at the lake that is "in"

Amphitheater- terrible conditions.
     Gent- no first pitch and hardly no second pitch on both variations.
     Prom- curtain does not touch down, really thin below the curtain.
     Who's Who- nope
     Bullwinkle- nope
     Reign- maybe!

Stormy Monday- maybe, looks like it would be difficult.

Big wall- not much ice

Called- nope

Mindbender area- compared to the rest this are looked good from the road. Renorm looked good, the other two are probably hollow scare fests.
     
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on January 12, 2012, 11:29:12 am
thanks for posting David... bummed that things are in such poor shape up there. somewhat surprising too... perhaps this round of snow will help, assuming you get any of it!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on January 12, 2013, 02:23:18 pm
anybody know how Willoughby has been? I haven't heard anything in a while...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: mopowers on January 12, 2013, 03:35:55 pm
Everything on the south end is in. The original first pitch to Extensive Homology is even starting to form as of yesterday and thats pretty rare. It is all wet and fairly candled. Most of the Amphitheater routes are climbable but will be thin and difficult, not quite "in" status.

With current weather conditions i would consider this report old news even though i was there yesterday. Things are going to radically change on a daily basis with the current weather pattern. Hopefully the next few nights will dip below freezing and some cold weather will move in within a few days.         
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on January 12, 2013, 04:45:40 pm
thanks for the heads up David. hopefully you are doing well and things get colder soon.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on December 31, 2013, 10:11:19 am
things are looking very good up there. many trade routes are IN at this time.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: ralbert20 on March 03, 2014, 09:58:32 am
Anyone been there recently? Any thoughts for Weds/ Fri this week?
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: old_school on March 03, 2014, 10:16:05 am
Anyone been there recently? Any thoughts for Weds/ Fri this week?

My friend Jim was up there last week and said conditions were decent, he froze his A** off though!   ;)
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on March 03, 2014, 03:44:36 pm
I was there on Wednesday and it was good and very cold - never got above 13! It's the same this week!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 03, 2014, 05:33:46 pm
Al. Just read you write up on the lake. awsome as always.  Interesting enough I had been to the lake 3 times, shoestring early season and then again the fist day of freeze after a hard thaw, smuggs as well as a few other local spots this year and had not encountered perma pick and foot holds the whole season. Went to Poco  on feb 10th and encountered my first gym climb of the season. It is a completly different game. two trips to cathedral and it was the same scenario. The picked out climbs require a completly different mindset of hooking and balanceing to match up with the proper holds.  It is fun interesting climbing but worlds apart from climbing natural ice.  Left Practice slab is burly:)
 One thing about the lake that is often misunderstood  is that the sun is not always your friend there. the climbs can rapidly turn into verticle slush if the temps even get up to 30F  hanging belays melt out before the pitch is finished. It can be pretty serious stuff and lots of visitors seem to simply think  its 35 and sunny it going to be hero.....  35f and sunny @ the lake is serious russian roulete.... perfect day @ the lake is 15-25f and sunny or 35 and cloudy. Places in the Gent ampetheather can be terrifying and still be in the upper 20's.  annother factor is icefall. No pick holes = real dinnerplates free falling 60m on to your belayer....... yet many times you see belayers put in bad places dodgeing bricks...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on March 04, 2014, 07:40:21 am
Al. Just read your write up on the lake. awesome as always.

thanks for the kind words Nick. coming from you I really appreciate that...

Quote
Interesting enough I had been to the lake 3 times, shoestring early season and then again the fist day of freeze after a hard thaw, smuggs as well as a few other local spots this year and had not encountered perma pick and foot holds the whole season. Went to Poco  on feb 10th and encountered my first gym climb of the season. It is a completly different game. two trips to cathedral and it was the same scenario. The picked out climbs require a completly different mindset of hooking and balanceing to match up with the proper holds.  It is fun interesting climbing but worlds apart from climbing natural ice. 

very very different climbing! the closest thing to the Lake I had done all season was Smear one very cold day. there were no pick or screw holds and it was harder than I had ever done it. way harder than the Dracula walk up. that said, Left Tablet was another couple of clicks harder. the ice was hard, inconsistent and very steep AND we went back and forth between kind of pleasant and full conditions, all in 4 hours. on top of that the top out was awkward and absolutely not a breeze.

Quote
Left Practice slab is burly:)

you said it - not a "practice slab" at all? [wry grin]

Quote
One thing about the lake that is often misunderstood  is that the sun is not always your friend there. the climbs can rapidly turn into verticle slush if the temps even get up to 30F  hanging belays melt out before the pitch is finished. It can be pretty serious stuff and lots of visitors seem to simply think  its 35 and sunny it going to be hero.....  35f and sunny @ the lake is serious russian roulete.... perfect day @ the lake is 15-25f and sunny or 35 and cloudy. Places in the Gent ampetheather can be terrifying and still be in the upper 20's.

mid-March is the time to be up there. cold nights, upper 20's, somewhat sunny days - but not full sun. I've been up there many times when I had to pack slushy ice around the screws to keep them from melting out and could not find good enough ice to use for a v-thread so I had to rap from a single beater 22cm screw while stuff was crashing down on a climb next to us! I'm done up there by the end of March, tho at this rate it may be just a bit later.
[/quote]

Quote
another factor is icefall. No pick holes = real dinnerplates free falling 60m on to your belayer....... yet many times you see belayers put in bad places dodging bricks...

I hear you... I honestly didn't get the v-thread right in the middle of the slow last week. don't see how any belayer could not be bombarded...

regardless, I'm heading up there again next Tuesday, weather permitting. there is no place like it other than in the Canadian Rockies. I had forgotten just how great a resource it is, and less than 2 hours form North Conway.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 04, 2014, 08:20:41 am
Yes is is Awsome ;D Speaking of sandbags. I just read the Ed Webster Description of Repentance rock climb and he has the chockstone @ 5.6!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: old_school on March 04, 2014, 09:42:40 am
Yes is is Awsome ;D Speaking of sandbags. I just read the Ed Webster Description of Repentance rock climb and he has the chockstone @ 5.6!

5.6 A1...lol
I saw you didn't have a #3 or any gear under the chockstone...did you not have any? Very bold pulling that move with the gear at your feet!!  ;) Nice work Nick!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: strandman on March 04, 2014, 10:32:38 am
Good one nick....5.6 double plus at least
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 04, 2014, 10:56:49 am
Ha, ha I had TWO #3 cams stuffed up in the crack. Still thought it was pleanty spicy scratching to the top ;D the Ed webster description is to stem over the chockstone @ 5.6. Wonder if he was smoking something when he wrote that 8)
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: strandman on March 04, 2014, 11:01:15 am
As a ROCK climb, it's 5.9  and trying to stem it would be harder. i would say A1  as a mixed/ice climb   :D
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 04, 2014, 11:32:08 am
I graded it 5.8 my ass 8) which is solid 5.9  You  get a few  good hand jams and some interesting edgeing with the crampon points, a  left hand sloper sidepull w gloves on. then the tricky part is getting a tool into your hand for the little slot hook then knee jam grovel to finally a decent foot jam and some real sticks. I have Never done A1 that felt even remotely that difficult/fun.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: xcrag_corex on March 04, 2014, 11:41:40 am
First trip to Willoughby this past weekend. Sounds like I had similar conditions to Al. A little brittle and in consistent. Very chilly. While I was leading on slabs right my partner witnessed our neighbors perform the infamous 2 rope TR with the ever so popular off belay passing of the knot. And can anyone explain why when you greet a French Canadien  climber they just stare at you blankly?
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 04, 2014, 11:57:56 am
still can not comprehend why anyone would do that. 400ft of rope in the system you are going to take 30ft fall on top rope :P
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: old_school on March 04, 2014, 12:00:06 pm
still can not comprehend why anyone would do that. 400ft of rope in the system you are going to take 30ft fall on top rope :P


Soooooofffffft catch!!  ;) :P
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: neiceclimber on March 04, 2014, 01:15:29 pm
still can not comprehend why anyone would do that. 400ft of rope in the system you are going to take 30ft fall on top rope :P

Right, add the likelihood that the knots not super cinched and slippage through the belay device and you could be looking at a 50 footer. Why anyone would top rope at Willoughby is beyond me.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on April 01, 2014, 10:33:45 pm
Climbed Mindbender and Renormalization at the Lake with Paul Cormier today. Tho it was a fabulous day, this is the last day at the Lake for me this winter. The sun is just too warm now. By the time we finished Renormalization at about 2:30 close to 50 and the screws were melting out!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 02, 2014, 06:33:13 am
any other year and I would think that was an April fools post  but this year I believe you :o
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on April 02, 2014, 06:58:08 am
no April Fools joke, but some would have said we were April fools for doing it on a day this warm! BTW, while the ice was soft in places, it was also brittle, punky, plastic, fractured, smooth, candled, fat, thin and everything in between. in one particularly hard spot near the top of the crux on Mindbender the ice got totally clear and you could see the water running behind it! neither one of us had the words "hero ice" come to mind! [wry grin]
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Jeff on April 02, 2014, 09:04:23 am
Sounds like Al got "renormalized" just in time for rock/bike season; not a minute to spare--now temps will probably drop to low teens and we'll have a blizzard!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on April 02, 2014, 02:21:33 pm
Sounds like Al got "renormalized" just in time for rock/bike season; not a minute to spare--now temps will probably drop to low teens and we'll have a blizzard!

too true...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on December 08, 2014, 08:28:44 am
Looks like the Lake has come back in. Tradman and Alden P climbed Promonade on Sunday, and it looked somewhat reasonable. It's time to start heading north...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 08, 2014, 09:34:24 am
Alden did all the leading. I thought the 1st two pitches were pretty darn serious and P 2 had the potentual to zipper the entire pitch if one was to test the gear.... Everything looked pretty serious to me.  Even the tablets  are probobly in grade 5 or harder conditions...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 08, 2014, 10:19:52 am
Alden headding into some very steep and spicy climbing.... The gear on this pitch would probobly get an A6 rateing in the Fischer towers.....
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on December 21, 2014, 07:49:13 am
http://www.mooneymountainguides.com/blog/ice-climbing-at-lake-willoughby-vt/
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 25, 2014, 06:02:02 pm
I did a drive by after Xmass dinner @ my sisters. Absolute total thermo nuclear devastation....... :'(
even most of the snow is gone
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on December 26, 2014, 08:05:24 pm
I did a drive by after Xmass dinner @ my sisters. Absolute total thermo nuclear devastation....... :'(
even most of the snow is gone

not at all surprising. snow is going fast down here as well...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 26, 2014, 10:23:50 pm
I was hopeing we would at least keep some snowpack to help keep the water flowing if it gets cold for real but no such luck...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on February 16, 2015, 07:52:17 am
Lots and lots of good ice up there right now.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on January 07, 2016, 10:54:38 pm
As you can see from the home page picture, there is some good big ice at the Lake.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: dave095790 on January 27, 2016, 06:35:31 pm
Anyone know anything recent?  temps and precip make it look like it would be fine?  planning on going up there Saturday, thoughts?
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 27, 2016, 07:48:43 pm
Conditions = mobbed  ???
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: grubbers on January 27, 2016, 08:16:56 pm
Many routes were in good shape today, should be fine on Saturday.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on February 21, 2016, 03:38:35 pm
I saw some pictures of the Lake yesterday and the ice still looked good. interestingly enough there was minimal ice on the ground and the lake itself was frozen enough that there were people out there on ATV's! seems to me that the lake waster of ice only a couple of weeks ago...
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: dave095790 on February 21, 2016, 05:50:16 pm
The ice on Friday was good. 

Ground was 99% snow free - today I bet it was 99.9% snow free. 

There was a lot of ice in the approach gully and obviously along the base. 

I have only ever seen it with snow on the ground - it was quite a different scene snow-free.  Micro-spikes saved the real crampons from some serious abuse on the way up and down. 
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: kneville on February 29, 2016, 10:20:56 am
Anyone know current/recent conditions? thanks!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: Admin Al on February 29, 2016, 12:08:09 pm
surprisingly good. I saw a picture of Glass Menagerie and it looked OK. I'm sure that there is plenty to climb. depending on this next front passing through that is!
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on February 29, 2016, 05:20:04 pm
Things can change really fast up there.   a few days of warm temps and sun do real bad things. worse than rain INMOP.  the lake is definatly on probation right now as far as I am concerned. If the temps and cloud cover lines up its golden. If not it's deadly......
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: nuts on March 03, 2016, 06:09:31 pm
Anyone at the Lake the past few days? Temps look good, but lots of sun.
Title: Re: Willoughby
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 03, 2016, 09:20:48 pm
anything that is normally fat and reliable pretty much anywhere in Vt and NH  is fat right now INMOP....