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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: DGoguen on September 17, 2012, 10:47:06 AM

Title: Ingy's Ice Cream 5.7 North Bald Cap
Post by: DGoguen on September 17, 2012, 10:47:06 AM
Dick Norlin and I did a route to the right of October Sundae on North Bald Cap on 9-14-2012
Pitch three was previously climbed by Jack Dorsey and Chuck Woodman as a variation to October Sundae. This creates an independent line that incorporates that beautiful flake.

Ingy’s Ice Cream 5.7

Walk  25 right of October Sundae and back left up a ramp to the start at a slab 30’ up in the woods.

Pitch 1   Up the easy slab to break out onto the main face above. Continue straight up to a gear belay below a continuing flake system.   60meters
Pitch 2   Climb the flake system straight above passing the right side of a large tree island and arching back left to a gear belay in rust colored rock.  60 meters
Pitch 3   Move left  and climb a beautiful white flake forming the right side of the central  groove. Layback the flake to the end and move right up a buttress and finish with a quartz dike to a gear belay and ledge.  5.7  60 meters. 
Part of this pitch was previously climbed by Jack Dorsey and Chuck Woodman as a variation to October Sundae.
Pitch 4  Move left off  the ledge and go up the center of the white slab above.  Starting with a couple of hollow flakes then passing a bolt at the swell. The slab eases bringing you to a blocky gear belay. 5.7  55 meters
Pitch 5  Continue up to the grey blocky headwall above and belay in the woods.  60 meters
Descent.  Walk climbers left 25 feet to the rappel anchors on October Sundae.  5 double rope raps brings you down to the base.
Title: Re: Ingy's Ice Cream 5.7 North Bald Cap
Post by: old_school on September 17, 2012, 11:32:09 AM
Looks nice! Great work you guys! ;)
Title: Re: Ingy's Ice Cream 5.7 North Bald Cap
Post by: M_Sprague on September 17, 2012, 06:57:18 PM
Sounds nice!
Title: Re: Ingy's Ice Cream 5.7 North Bald Cap
Post by: Admin Al on September 18, 2012, 09:39:22 PM
getting to be a lot of cool stuff out there...
Title: Re: Ingy's Ice Cream 5.7 North Bald Cap
Post by: Smear on September 19, 2012, 06:21:25 AM
Nice job Dave and Dick.Can't wait to check it out!