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General => Conditions => Topic started by: Admin Al on December 16, 2011, 11:36:08 pm

Title: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 16, 2011, 11:36:08 pm
Canon has been getting some ice on the Dike, not sure about anywhere else...
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: JChepes on February 12, 2012, 08:05:27 am
Was wandering around eagle cliff 2/11.  Got a good look at garcia-vega, soiled
not foiled.  Looked quite healthy for anyone interested. 
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: DWT on March 04, 2012, 06:19:42 pm
Has anyone been on the Black Dike this weekend?  How was the ice?
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: fresh on March 05, 2012, 12:12:41 pm
did hassig's yesterday, the ice was great. just about the same as the photo in the routes section of this site. the last pitch was a hookfest.

the biggest challenge of the day was breaking trail through hip-deep snow leading up to the dike.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: caleje on November 08, 2012, 03:00:11 pm
Was thinking of doing one or two of the longer routes up Cannon Cliff - looks like the weather's gonna be nice!  Anyone know how the climbing conditions are post storm and all?
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: smartpig on February 04, 2013, 07:24:21 pm
Echo Crag has some interesting little ditties going on right now....
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on February 04, 2013, 11:30:30 pm
looks very cool Jamie... thanks for posting.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: ELM on February 12, 2013, 07:41:11 pm
The Flume floor is in as of today. From the road the Black Dike looked iceless.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on February 12, 2013, 08:35:15 pm
yeah, everyone's been saying that it's locked up. what a bummer...
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Jonny_Weld-a-Nut on April 26, 2013, 06:43:02 pm
How's Cannon beginning to look for rock climbing?  I'm thinking of climbing some routes the weekend of May 4th / 5th? 

Thanks,

JWaN
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: strandman on April 26, 2013, 07:58:00 pm
jamie-- your fuckin' whacked   8)
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Wally on May 18, 2013, 01:07:44 pm
Has anyone been in to Echo Crag - I understand it is often wet in spring, but this has been a dry spring.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: tradchick on May 19, 2013, 05:14:26 pm
I was at Echo yesterday and most of the climbs are dry.  There are two popular climbs with lots of water on them, Cooler Sacrifice and the face climb that is to the right of The Shield.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Jeff on May 19, 2013, 06:53:12 pm
Bet they're wetter now ;)
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on September 27, 2013, 10:15:02 am
Not too surprising that there was ice on Canon on Thursday morning!  ;D  Thanks to Dereck Tremblay for the picture.

Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: kneville on December 13, 2013, 11:27:17 pm
Anyone know if the stream at Flume is adequately frozen to access the climbing? Or generally, how cold how long does it need to be?
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 14, 2013, 06:59:02 am
it's likely coming, but it usually takes a while. a lot of water flows through there...
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: rbirk on January 01, 2014, 09:13:37 pm
Flume and surroundings pictures from Jan 1:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151872618834157.1073741846.627009156&type=1&l=1de7ab7377 (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151872618834157.1073741846.627009156&type=1&l=1de7ab7377)
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: rbirk on January 05, 2014, 07:26:21 pm
Echo cliff from Jan 5:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151880217219157.1073741847.627009156&type=1&l=7446d3eda1
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: pappy on January 13, 2014, 01:57:24 pm
Drove through Franconia Notch this morning. The middle of the Dike is gone; Fafnir is more of a hint, a hallucination of an ice climb than an ice climb. Strangely, the top half of Omega looked as good as I've ever seen it, tho' I've only seen it a couple of times. Even the column in the middle had touched down. Of course, the first half was non-existent. oh well.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on April 18, 2014, 01:15:09 am
believe it or not Peter Doucette & partner Adam climbed Omega today very early in the morning. while not "fat" it certainly looked climbable. he said that while it was IN in the AM, it was not by early afternoon!
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: JBro on April 18, 2014, 09:10:13 pm
Funny just came here to post that while driving up through the notch this morning there was a line left of Omega that looked like it went top to bottom, Omega looked "in," and the dike had ice from top to bottom. I thought I was seeing things!

Edit: After looking at the report on neice I wonder if I got confused and the big line top to bottom was Omega. If so there was a line right of Omega (what I always thought was Omega) that was thick at the top and really thin at the bottom. In any case there was certainly a lot of ice on Cannon for this time of year! 
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on November 17, 2014, 04:08:05 pm
Art Mooney and a partner climbed the Black Dike Today. It looked surprisingly good for this time of year. They hiked off, mainly because he doesn't like the talus field. I don't blame him either!  ;D



Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 17, 2014, 04:22:59 pm
I had driven through Franconia Notch on my way up and back from a big loop (Franconia, Crawford, Pinkham, Appalachia and Dixville - with a Schilling beer stop on the way back!) looking at ice formation Saturday. Through a pretty decent pair of binoculars I'd say that between Saturday and today the Dike has gained ice!

With this wet weather and cold behind it I'm sure things will fatten up even more for this weekend.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 28, 2014, 04:25:22 pm
On the way back from a great ski day I stopped in the cannon lot and looked at the dike through binoculars - visibility wasn't great and it basically looked like a snow covered rock climb. Hard to tell what might be forming.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Climber57r on November 28, 2014, 06:29:59 pm
I was up there today. All the lower ice is out. Hopefully things will be better by Sunday/ Monday. We decided to check out Crawford. No ice any where. Well for me at least. Enjoy.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 01, 2014, 09:01:34 am
the Dike was climbed this weekend, but the 2nd and last pitches were all rock gear.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: mendonza on December 08, 2014, 10:23:59 am
Did the Dike on the 6th, It was in pretty good conditions but REALLY wet, it was precipitating a wintery mix of sleet snow and rain, and there was a lot of water and slush on the second pitch. There was slushy ice all the way down from the pitch two runnel to the pitch one ice.

Another party climbed fafnir which looked in reasonably good condition as well.

Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 12, 2014, 02:50:55 pm
Black Dike done today and from pictures it looked in great shape! amazing the difference between this side of the Mountain and that!
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: lukeweiss on December 12, 2014, 08:15:42 pm
where are the pics?
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 13, 2014, 05:18:01 pm
saw them on Facebook
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Further on December 14, 2014, 08:14:48 pm
Anyone have any update on the dike from this weekend?  Thinking of making an attempt tomorrow.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 15, 2014, 09:45:28 pm
I think Kevin Mahoney was on it today… I saw a pic and it looked pretty good.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: markvnh on January 01, 2015, 07:54:22 pm
Wanting to avoid normal places that might be crowded I headed up and climbed Big Slide today - with two friends coming off the couch. Three easy pitches of very nice soft ice, a couple hundred feet neve section and then the nice pitch at the top that went easy 3.

Stuff to the right of Big Slide looked good.

Ace looked ok but possibly delaminated a bit.

Black Dike though binoculars - well, it's got ice and I'm sure some people would say "in good" but I've certainly seen it with more ice. At 2:30 one party was leading the second pitch runnel. I'm sure it was a headlamp descent.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: JohnR on March 25, 2015, 08:36:44 pm
Black Dike, Weds 3/25: Plenty of ice bottom to top.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: grubbers on May 11, 2015, 07:42:27 pm
Anyone been climbing around the notch lately? I've heard that people have started to venture up Cannon.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on October 19, 2015, 09:29:45 pm
Well the Black Dike has been climbed today by a strong party of ladies, Majka Burhardt and Alexa Siegel! What's next, Pinnacle?

https://www.facebook.com/majkaburhardtofficial/photos/pcb.10153162490671596/10153162477066596/?type=3&theater
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on October 22, 2015, 04:29:51 pm
Here's a great interview with Majka about her and Alexis' ascent of the Dike last week:

http://www.julbo.com/en/16/news/majka-burhardt-and-alexa-siegel-kickoff-new-england-s-ice-climbing-season_566.html
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: markvnh on November 25, 2015, 04:57:57 pm
Dike was very thin today. First pitch looked like snow covered rock with a smattering of ice. Second pitch was allot of rock with a small runnel. Last pitch was ice for probably half and then all rock.

There was a party of two at second belay and I watch the last pitch lead thru binoculars. Awesome job whoever led it. I hope they post up - kudos!
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on December 05, 2015, 04:22:38 pm
Can anyone comment on conditions in Franconia Notch?  Was there snow Thursday?  If so, how much?thx
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: pcooke on December 05, 2015, 04:48:22 pm
Decent amount of snow up in the notch this morning (4am) on the drive towards Mt. Washington, not sure how warm it got today though.

MarkvNH...photos from the 25th are up on NEIce... the first pitch was fat, took 10s and I didn't even have to sharpen any at the end of the day.... can't say the same for my picks though.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Jeff on December 05, 2015, 05:36:42 pm
Can't speak for Mt Washington, but I was splitting and stacking wood in Bartlett in a long sleeved T-shirt-- sunny and 51 degrees F-- I skied yesterday ( Friday) at Bretton Woods in/on 3 inches of new natural snow over their manmade on 3 trails-- temps got up to about 34 degrees F by noon.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on December 22, 2015, 02:47:35 pm
Check out the home page picture, can you believe it? Bryan Kass, Jeff Dunn and Doug Furgeson climbed the Black Dike on 12/22/2015! They topped out just before it started pouring rain... That's Doug Furgeson climbing. Considering how warm it is, and how hard it's raining, I doubt it will be there this afternoon!
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: z.st.jules on January 03, 2016, 09:20:49 pm
Climbed at ace of spades and am aware that two parties climbed the dike and 1 party, fafnir.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 14, 2016, 08:55:13 pm
Echo Crag is good to go. Scottish Gully & others look good.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: controleman on January 16, 2016, 08:44:37 am
We did black dike on the 16/01/2016, thin and interesting.. bring a small rack of rock protection and 1-2 10cm screws.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: perswig on January 16, 2016, 08:08:39 pm
We did black dike on the 16/01/2016, thin and interesting.. bring a small rack of rock protection and 1-2 10cm screws.

I recall learning up to December.  What's month #16?
(Where are we,  Europe?)

Dale
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: controleman on January 18, 2016, 07:01:06 am
We did black dike on the 16/01/2016, thin and interesting.. bring a small rack of rock protection and 1-2 10cm screws.

I recall learning up to December.  What's month #16?
(Where are we,  Europe?)

Dale

Nah, just a canadian who's using the day/month/year format!
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 18, 2016, 09:58:19 am
Ace Of Spades is getting done regularly.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: z.st.jules on January 18, 2016, 11:59:34 pm
Just noticed the header... shouldnt Cannon have two N's?
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: DaveR on January 19, 2016, 09:37:11 am
Drove by the dike to ski at Cannon Sat morning and the dike looked like a CF. 2 parties on the route and 2 cued up at the base with one heading up.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: strandman on January 19, 2016, 10:33:51 am
Thin Air for ice climbing
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Jeff on January 19, 2016, 11:19:18 am
Drove by the dike to ski at Cannon Sat morning and the dike looked like a CF. 2 parties on the route and 2 cued up at the base with one heading up.

I can't imagine attempting the Dike on a weekend as guaranteed crowded as MLK-- oh the HORROR!
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: strandman on January 19, 2016, 12:36:04 pm
So much for not climbing under another party
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: DaveR on January 19, 2016, 01:44:21 pm
So much for not climbing under another party

Natural selection is the term! ;D
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: kneville on January 20, 2016, 12:54:12 pm
Does anyone know if the floor of the Flume is in? Or if not, care to hazard a guess about whether it will be by Sunday?

thanks
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 20, 2016, 05:14:41 pm
Ken - There is I believe a current pic on the NEClimbs FB page.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on January 20, 2016, 06:17:36 pm
I'd say until there's at least one big dump snow the floor of the flume will be open.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: z.st.jules on January 24, 2016, 09:35:11 am
Climbed the Dike yesterday (1.23.15)
Was thin but fine. Not much pro on pitch two except all the fixed stuff (read: tons of pro on pitch two) :)
Pitch one didn't take any pro and pitch three was fat and picked out.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 24, 2016, 11:10:33 pm
I'd say until there's at least one big dump snow the floor of the flume will be open.

PEOPLE ARE CLIMBING IN THE FLUME
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Nemesis on January 25, 2016, 03:37:43 pm
So there... :P
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Hellmans on February 09, 2016, 11:03:21 am
Black Dike done Feb 8th

1st pitch very thin, no screws, just used random iced jamed slings
2nd pitch No ice, pure rock climbing and using for pro: the traverse slings, another rock sling above, a red camalot jammed, and an old tricam also jammed, to finally put 2 small screws near the end. I wish we brought rock pro !
3rd pitch Good Ice, Good screws, the curtain is dry, only goes on the left and steps are more vertical than usual.

Enjoy ;D
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: lukeweiss on March 20, 2016, 08:36:23 pm
I know it is a longshot, but with this mini-cold spell... anybody get a look in to the Dike yesterday or today?
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: wiggins on March 31, 2016, 06:17:29 pm
anybody been up in the notch lately or hiked franconia ridge? looking to do some skiing and was wondering around what elevation the snow pack starts or if it exists? i haven't been up there in a while...
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Climber57r on December 23, 2016, 04:57:15 pm
Just my encounters on the ice in Franconia from mid week.

Franconia:
Ace of Spades - Forming well
Dike - In (Tread lightly on the snow slab on the way up.. quite exciting)
Omega - In/ Thin
Fafnir - In

Kinsman:
There is ice but it is still forming. The lower angled climbs were in well. Kilarney 2+, and the Leprechauns Lament are in great shape. Shamrock is in great and steeper than usual 3+/4. The Beast is in stout conditions 4+/5. The upper tier from the ledge to the tree is thin. Otherwise Pot O' Gold, Hanging by a moment and any other route not mentioned was forming well. However it was wet and chandeliered. Hopefully no one bashes it out before they form nicely.

Rumney:
Selsun Blue - Climbable
Parking Lot wall, etc - forming

Enjoy.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 01, 2017, 05:03:00 pm
Omega is still thin, but was climbed on New Years Eve day by a very strong team of Mark Richie & Joe Terravecchia. They said that there was no one else on the cliff, a rarity!
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 02, 2017, 07:28:53 am
Good job! I don't know as it gets much fatter these days.. seems like if you want to climb Omega you kind of have to do it in those conditions?
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: Admin Al on January 02, 2017, 01:13:37 pm
Good job! I don't know as it gets much fatter these days.. seems like if you want to climb Omega you kind of have to do it in those conditions?

for the most part I think that's right...
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: tradmanclimbz on January 02, 2017, 09:14:29 pm
seems like a darn fickel climb.  Seems like it rarely stays in for more than a week or two and often just a few days.....
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: markvnh on February 22, 2017, 08:41:44 pm
Climbed at kinsman today. Quite warm - mid 40s. As one could imagine it was hero ice. Didn't walk over to the Beast. Everything else was quite good however tops of some climbs get sun so they were baked. Use your best judgment if your gonna climb as its only gonna get worse before / if it gets better.
Title: Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
Post by: NEAlpineStart on November 20, 2017, 02:51:22 pm
Black Dike 11/20/17

Survived yesterday's rain and warm temps quite well but gets thin after 2nd pitch pillar. I plugged up 3/6 ice screws in the fresh new ice after the rock traverse and with no rock gear decided running out 40 feet of thin ice wasn't for me so I v-threaded off and we bailed. If you head up tomorrow bring a little rock gear and maybe give the screws a fresh spray of WD-40, that ice was SUPER sticky today!

Pics/Video on my Instagram @northeast_alpine_start