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General => New Ice Routes => Topic started by: Eric McCallister on January 08, 2008, 12:52:43 PM

Title: Dial M for Murder
Post by: Eric McCallister on January 08, 2008, 12:52:43 PM
Dial M for Murder, WI4+, M8
Climbed by myself and Jim Ewing on 1/6/08. Dial M climbs up and out the overhanging rock and ice above upper Hitchcock Gully, beginning just below the first ice bulge. A mixed line that has about 50/50 proportion of rock and ice. 6 bolts to ice screws at the top.

On the FA. Photo by Jim Ewing.
(http://www.ericmccallister.com/temp/Mt%20Willard/DialM_FA1.jpg)

(http://www.ericmccallister.com/temp/Mt%20Willard/DialMTopo.jpg)
(Note: The route actually ascends to the right of the yellow line.)
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: Admin Al on January 08, 2008, 12:55:14 PM
sweet line Eric. congrats to you & to Jim for the second ascent.

--al
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: slink on January 08, 2008, 01:34:23 PM
 Great job guy's.I see the battery powered courage worked.It has surprised me at how long it has taken someone to do those lines up there. ;D
 Jim
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: Admin Al on January 08, 2008, 01:42:50 PM
I've looked at that area for years & I don't think that it could be done without bolts.

--al
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: slink on January 08, 2008, 04:14:21 PM
 You are right about the bolts Al.The comment about battery powered courage was something that I said to Eric when he was working the route.They needed A bolt after finding the ice not suitable for a screw.Again great job Eric and Jim.
 Jim
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: old_school on January 08, 2008, 06:46:53 PM
All Bolts Eric, or is there gear in there down low? What a cool looking route...well done!
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: Eric McCallister on January 08, 2008, 08:46:14 PM
All Bolts Eric, or is there gear in there down low? What a cool looking route...well done!

The route is all bolts (6 total) except for the ice screw(s) at the top. There was only one place for a cam up around 4th-bolt height. The corner at the top also would not take gear or even pins. We actually first went up there hoping to lead it on gear with maybe a bolt or two, but it turned out it would have to have been all bolts with one placement. We also attempted to minimize the bolts, but I ended up adding a 6th (what is the 3rd bolt) after a near ground fall by myself (cringe!) from 1/3 of the way up the route.
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: old_school on January 08, 2008, 09:37:25 PM
Right on! Looks stout man...what a great looking line. Nice job you guys...
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: DLottmann on January 09, 2008, 04:01:00 PM
I watched you guys working this for a bit, and you said it would go down before dark... nice job! I liked the other name you were tossing around for it though...
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: meclimber on January 10, 2008, 05:47:35 PM
looks proud, great job guys.  Hindsight, I should have bought you a beer on sunday.  Congrats.
-jon
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: Eric McCallister on January 10, 2008, 06:31:25 PM
Thanks for the thought, Jon! Was good to have company over a pie! Glad we ALL got out before this heatwave.
Title: Re: Dial M for Murder
Post by: peet on January 20, 2008, 07:13:34 PM
Just wondering if the bolts were placed on lead or rap?