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General => Bouldering => Topic started by: TrundleBum on March 07, 2008, 09:01:02 PM

Title: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: TrundleBum on March 07, 2008, 09:01:02 PM
I was just curious ?
I am referring to the crack, boulder problem on the right side of rt #16 headed north towards Conway. The boulder is pretty much across from Chocorua lake and up the road slightly.
(as I recall)

The boulder almost hangs over the road, looking almost like it will tumble one day.

Does the problem have a name?
What difficulty is it in 'V' terms ?
Anybody have any good pic's of it ?

TY forward.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: Admin Al on March 07, 2008, 10:47:45 PM
I've noticed it every time I've ridden by for 25 years but never heard of anyone stopping & doing it.

it's YOURS! 

:o

--al
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: old_school on March 07, 2008, 11:05:45 PM
Tried that one years ago...maybe 1980's? ( I am dating myself!!!)  :-[

I remember the problem on the front was very stiff, a real thin finger crack with little for feet and slightly overhanging. Around the right side, I remember a real easy crack system which was kind of fun. Couldn't guess what the rating would be as it was many years ago. It was a real tough top-out.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: bristolpipe on March 10, 2008, 10:01:29 AM
Jim Dunn was the first I heard of who climbed the crack, but even though that was the late 70's he didn't think it could be a FA.  The face on the right is considerably easier, maybe 5.7?

I would give the crack a modern V2 rating, but we never used pads, and even if you had them, the landing slopes too much.

Further south on RTE 16, on the west side just south of the John Deere dealership is another large stone with a 5.5ish crack on it's south side.  On the East face, right hand side is a thin crack cutting an overhang.  That is considerably harder than the aforementioned boulder, assuming a sit start.  I think it may need a bit of gardening again, as I climbed it in the late 70's.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: bag11s on March 10, 2008, 12:54:26 PM
V2 sounds about right for the crack, perservere at the top- 1991?
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: old_school on March 10, 2008, 01:34:15 PM
I would agree with a V2 or possibly V3...but again, it was years ago! Definitely have the spotter as bristolpipe mentioned...the landing can be an ankle snapper!  ;)
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: bristolpipe on March 10, 2008, 02:44:58 PM
I think Dunn told me it was a 5.9+, and we all know what that means...

It only gets a modern V2 rating because most boulderers can't crack climb.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: TrundleBum on March 10, 2008, 05:36:29 PM

Thanks for the replies folks.

I tried it a few times (unsuccesfully) then one day I was driving by and Jimmy Dunn was just walking back to his car after doing it. We talked about it. I did finally get up it once.
(in a galaxy far far away)

Thanks for the V2+ or whatever ratings.
(I am clueless about the V-scale)

And yes the old New Hampshire joke stands...
It's "another one of those nasty 5.9+ 's" lol
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: DWarriner on March 11, 2008, 04:39:45 PM
I went to try that once, but I got lost on the approach.

Good thing I had my cell phone.  Another close call averted thanks to technology.

-David

Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: frik on March 12, 2008, 11:37:15 AM
Well, i don't know if it was the first ascent, but we nailed it back in 1973 or 74. With Ed Webster and...... wait for it... Ken Nichols, no lie. Winter ascent too - full on conditions. I can't remember exactly, but Ed may have been a little "sick" and may have opted for the comfort of the VW bus
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: JBro on March 12, 2008, 12:45:23 PM
Well, i don't know if it was the first ascent, but we nailed it back in 1973 or 74. With Ed Webster and...... wait for it... Ken Nichols, no lie. Winter ascent too - full on conditions. I can't remember exactly, but Ed may have been a little "sick" and may have opted for the comfort of the VW bus

Like, you nailed it with pitons...? Wasn't that after the famous Chouinard catalog was published? Why you guys ought to be ashamed of yourselves. Especially Ken - I woulda guessed by then he was already implementing his duct tape skyhook to the mono doight bouldering technique. (Without one of those metrosexual gumby looking pad things, I might add.)

If you were real men you would have been talus running from Lakeview to the Gilman and back again more than once reduntantly.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: frik on March 12, 2008, 01:17:37 PM
Damn straight with pins, everything was fair game in winter. Back then Ken fancied himself an aid climber and it was his idea. I think both Ed & I said like "WTF", but in case you didn't know this about Ken, he tended to be kind of stubborn.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: slink on March 12, 2008, 03:59:27 PM
 If you mess with Ken he will start a fist fight.I saw it first hand once.I was climbing with him and he started a fight with 3 non climbers over them having a camp fire near a crag in CT.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: bristolpipe on March 25, 2008, 05:28:32 PM
If you mess with Ken he will start a fist fight.I saw it first hand once.I was climbing with him and he started a fight with 3 non climbers over them having a camp fire near a crag in CT.

Ken is a hypocrite, a fair weather coward, and now a criminal.

I am glad to see his judicial demise.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: JSarcione on March 15, 2009, 09:20:32 PM
I climbed it on my way to N. Conway back '91 or so and when I got to IME later that day, the guys there thought it was about 5.10.  Nice little crack problem actually. 
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: The other tomcat on March 16, 2009, 09:50:30 AM
I used to climb that boulder at lunch in the springtime.I always thought the crack was 10d.There are other good problems on the other faces.If it ever rolls out into the road,I will pick it up and bring it home.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: strandman on March 16, 2009, 10:02:58 AM
Damn straight with pins, everything was fair game in winter. Back then Ken fancied himself an aid climber and it was his idea. I think both Ed & I said like "WTF", but in case you didn't know this about Ken, he tended to be kind of stubborn.
Did not Ed and Ken also do Jack the Ripper and Possesed on aid around the same time ? Also in winter? No wonder Ed went to the desert so much and Ken became a total moron.
Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: steven_c. on May 25, 2009, 09:55:38 AM
the boulder has a good problem on the side as well.  I think 5.10 is fair for the front.  It is a great problem with a good landing.

Title: Re: Chocorua boulder problem, name, difficulty, any pic's ?
Post by: strandman on May 25, 2009, 10:14:02 AM
Speaking of Chocurua boulders- Weetamoo rock about a 30 ? minute hike in is pretty big.