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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: gags on March 10, 2009, 06:43:18 PM

Title: 2009 Hit List
Post by: gags on March 10, 2009, 06:43:18 PM
I have been making a hit list for climbing this year.  Unfortunately some have carried over from 2008.  On the top of the list is:

recompense, Sugarloaf mtn, new bouldering in Pawtuckaway, 4th class scrambles on Gothics in Adirondaks, Multi-pitch routes in Baxter (Armidillo, forget the other)

How about you?
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: ethatch on March 10, 2009, 07:04:23 PM
oh man, so many to list but I guess there are a few main ones:

 1.)Recompense (did the first two pitches in December and then bailed with cold injuries, been dying to get back on it since)

2. Diedre

3.) Moby Grape


As I said, there's so many more. But I've been itching to do these three for a few years, and I think I'll get the chance too this summer.
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: HangingChad on March 10, 2009, 07:57:19 PM
Moby Grape
Diedre
Recombeast
Airation
Ethereal Crack (clean this time)
and anything awesome out in Yosemite (heading over in may, any route suggestions?)
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: meclimber on March 11, 2009, 06:10:07 AM
Reccomendations:
East Butress, EC
DNB, Middle Catherdral
Braille Book
Central Pillar of Frenzy
Jam Crack
Henely Quits
...the list could go on...

Hit list:
Vultures, one hung it more times than I want to talk abou
Castaways, ditto
Direct Direct, not clean yet
Direct, a little scared
Hercules, same situation as vultures
Machina ex Deus, haven't tried yet
Abrakadabra
Intimadation/bicycle/antline-good link up, not clean yet
Black Mamba

...the list could go on...

Great topic
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: old_school on March 11, 2009, 07:47:51 AM
Ethereal (Clean this time)
Airation (clean)
and I have yet to lead Lost Souls!

Wouldn't mind a spin on Ego Trip either... ;)
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: Admin Al on March 11, 2009, 08:02:11 AM
great thread, so I'll join in. these are al things I've done before, but want to blast through this spring if the weather cooperates.

Loose Lips
Lost Souls
Atlantis
Moby Grape

--al
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: tradchick on March 11, 2009, 08:03:48 AM
Vertigo
Recombeast
Deidre
Airation
Vultures
The Prow (on aid)

Even more, to work on my leading every time we get out there.  I'll be the scaredy cat crying on the cliff, lol!  
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2009, 10:36:22 AM
Reccomendations:
East Butress, EC
DNB, Middle Catherdral
Braille Book
Central Pillar of Frenzy
Jam Crack
Henely Quits
...the list could go on...

Hit list:
Vultures, one hung it more times than I want to talk abou
Castaways, ditto
Direct Direct, not clean yet
Direct, a little scared
Hercules, same situation as vultures
Machina ex Deus, haven't tried yet
Abrakadabra
Intimadation/bicycle/antline-good link up, not clean yet
Black Mamba

...the list could go on...

Great topic

Wow ! machina- I have not heard that route in years. An excellent and varied climb with power crack climbing. Lots of good and virtually ignored climbing on Band M.

john
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2009, 10:40:52 AM
Moby Grape
Diedre
Recombeast
Airation
Ethereal Crack (clean this time)
and anything awesome out in Yosemite (heading over in may, any route suggestions?)

Yosemite- The Good Book 10+ -awesome, Royal Arches/ Crest Jewel 5.9+ 28 pitches, a great day out,Free Blast 11-, the start of Salathe free 10 pitches and a quick rap down, and of course the "easy" way up the Nabisco Wall 11a with Wheat Thin and Butterfingers as a finish WAY GOOD.

john
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: slink on March 11, 2009, 10:49:56 AM
GAGS Sugarloaf is cool if you have not been you should try Mt.  Oscar while you are in the area.I am thinking more back country cliffs this year Diagonal on Wallface is on the list(MT are you game?)TableMt.slabs back to mt.huntington those are good routes.Kinsman notch has some good stuff especially the Patina wall.So much to do and so little time,I usually do what I feel when I am there.
 Jim
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: HangingChad on March 11, 2009, 12:17:31 PM
Thanks for the Yosemite recommendations...

and VULTURES! how can I forget about that one.  Attempted last year, but I kept getting spit off the start...switched leaders, I seconded just fine.  Definately gonna lead it this year since I know how to actually start it this time!
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: meclimber on March 11, 2009, 12:29:43 PM
John, have you been on the step or steps at band M.  That's a great looking feature.  Also, what about 3 wogs...that's a tough one for the grade.  I haven't been to greens yet but I had some friends do stewart crack last fall.  Is it just those two established routes out there or are there more?
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: adamiata on March 11, 2009, 01:44:50 PM
The Horn - Pawtuckaway
The Start - Pawtuckaway
They Died Laughing
Birds Nest
Black Lung
Saigons
Bombardment
Prow (Aid)
Mordor (Aid)
Sliding Board
Sea of Holes
Whitney-G
Eaglet
Pinnacle Buttress

Armadillo

Snake Dike
Royal Arches
Cathedral Peak

General 5.8 proficiency on gear...

Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: meclimber on March 11, 2009, 02:30:51 PM
The start is a great one.  I forgot about pway, along with several other on my list I have one hung Climbers corner several times, a good one for the grade.
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: adamiata on March 11, 2009, 04:32:09 PM
The start is a great one.  I forgot about pway, along with several other on my list I have one hung Climbers corner several times, a good one for the grade.

The Start is a huge pain at the beginning. I've top-roped it and did a horrible job of french freeing it once, but no lead for me yet. P-tuck is on my way home from work, so I may spend a few nights TR-soling the Start and the Horn and just building crack skills.
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2009, 04:57:07 PM
John, have you been on the step or steps at band M.  That's a great looking feature.  Also, what about 3 wogs...that's a tough one for the grade.  I haven't been to greens yet but I had some friends do stewart crack last fall.  Is it just those two established routes out there or are there more?
3 Wogs is pretty good, nice well protected climbing. Also Bandit 5.9 and some 5.10 cracks on the far left.

Only the two routes on Greens that I know about but it has been quite a while since I have been there.Check out the Captain- one of it's routes was just added to the database.
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: meclimber on March 11, 2009, 05:08:20 PM
Bandit is great, I scared myself on the aid route general hospital, hooks to free climbing :-[

adamiata, I live in nottingham and in the spring/summer/fall we usually have a crew a night or two a week that goes out and climbs or boulders.  I keep a rope out there to cut down on travel weight.  I can give you my info if your interested. 

John, the same friends mentioned prior did a recon trip out to the captain and snapped some pics, pretty cool looking out there.  Seems like there is still quite a bit of room for more development.  Did kurt winkler do some routes out there?  One of my partners and I ran into him at a crowded cathedral rappel station this winter and the captain came up, and I beleive that he mentioned some routes.

Another route I want to get on this year is end of the universe, I did across the universe this past summer solstice and led the milkey way by moonlight, creepy.
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2009, 07:24:32 PM
Don't know  about  any other routes out there, but I would guess another 40-50 pitches could be done. I have not seen the Kurt in quite  while any contact info for him? One of the best "unknown " climbers ever !
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: meclimber on March 12, 2009, 10:45:45 AM
No, unfortunetly I don't.  It was my first time meeting him.
Title: Re: 2009 Hit List
Post by: Jeff on March 12, 2009, 05:04:53 PM
John, I think Kurt lives in Brownfield, ME-- I've run into him out ice climbing a couple of times this winter. I don't have contact info but Alain Comeau certainly would. He's in Brownfield also.  Jeff Lea