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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: cwoodman on July 22, 2009, 11:42:39 AM

Title: Parkway Slab
Post by: cwoodman on July 22, 2009, 11:42:39 AM
Located just north of Mt. Pemigewasset (Indian Head) in Franconia notch, this small slab offers a nice collection of moderate climbs in a very scenic location. The climbing is similar in nature to Rainbow Slabs or Lost Ledge- Main Slab, steeper at the bottom leading to lower angle finishes.
Park at the Flume Visitor Center and hike up the Mt. Pemi trail for about a mile. Soon after where the trail is close to a small stream and ravine on the right, look for a small cairn and head right (north) into the woods. Bushwack north easily, gaining elevation only slightly, and look for the occasional flag, until the slab comes into view ahead (20-30 minutes from trail). A GPS might make it easier. Jack will provide coordinates on a reply post. Below the slab, hike through a short chasm between rock walls and arrive at the lower right bottom. Climbs are described right to left.

Hole Lotta Fun  5.7
From the bottom right edge of the slab, scramble up to a large pothole, then climb past 5 bolts on perfect rock to a two bolt anchor at the top. Really nice.  190'

From the bottom, scramble up left, then walk right for 20 feet to a stance next to a short 1" crack.
Short and Sweet  5.6
Step right, jam the crack, then climb beautiful face past 3 or 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Sweet climb.  180'

30 feet left is the next climb.
A Notch Above   5.6
Climb 20 feet on steep, featured rock to a bolt, then continue up past the right end of a tree ledge. Climb up to a bolt on clean face, then move up easily along a nice white stripe to a two bolt anchor at the top.   180'

30 feet left is another nice climb.
Old Rt. 3 Bypass  5.5
Boulder up to a small ledge, clip a bolt, then continue easily to a break in the tree ledge. Move up and left to a small overlap, make a high step, then continue on easy face to a two bolt anchor below the trees.    180'

This slab was scoped by Chuck Woodman years ago and the climbs were completed by Chuck Woodman and Jack Dorsey in July of 2009.
When doing these climbs, you can finish one, and easily rap to the start of the next. A 5.6- 5.7 slab leader needs only 5 draws and 3 or 4 small cams to 1". If you've led Sliding Board or The Perfect Wave, you won't have a problem with these climbs. A nice 1/2 day outing.   
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: slink on July 22, 2009, 12:29:17 PM
Way to go Chuck and Jack.I have looked at those slabs for years going to Cannon but figured that they had been climbed years ago and not worth going to.More routes to do that are out of the way.Have not had a chance to get to Abel slab yet but maybe this fall.
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: Jack_Dorsey on July 22, 2009, 12:29:50 PM
Hi,

Attached to this post I've included a couple of pictures to give a flavor of Parkway slab. For a greater variety of pictures at higher resolution as well as more information on the approach look here:

http://jack-dorsey.smugmug.com/gallery/8822884_PxqnY#597550551_ejJxN (http://jack-dorsey.smugmug.com/gallery/8822884_PxqnY#597550551_ejJxN) .

Jack
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: meclimber on July 22, 2009, 02:06:38 PM
I don't even like slab climbing, but that looks great.  Thanks for the heads up.
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: Admin Al on July 22, 2009, 02:26:28 PM
sweet guys...that is great. can you see it from the road? if so do you have a picture of it from there?

--al
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: Jack_Dorsey on July 22, 2009, 02:59:03 PM
We don't have one that I know of yet, but expect to get one. I often do Mt Flume as part of a workout, so the next good day that I'm up there I'll see what I can get. Without getting high I suspect the trees at the bottom will obscure the bottom of the climbs.

Perhaps next week.
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: Admin Al on July 22, 2009, 05:18:21 PM
thanks Jack...

BTW the rock looks fantastic and the location is superb. it will be amazing in the fall.

--al
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: punxnotdead on July 22, 2009, 09:41:10 PM
Yet another beautiful addition by Chuck and Jack.  It is somewhere we all wish we explored a decade or so ago.  Thankfully there are adventurers out there who are willing to take the plunge.  Kudos to you two!!!  I cant wait to check them out!
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: smartpig on July 29, 2009, 07:13:48 PM
According to Sykes these slabs were all soloed by one Joe Bossi of Lincoln back in the seventies.  Jon had talked to this guy a few years back.  Apparently Joe effected a self rescue from these slabs when he broke his ankle and crawled his way back to civilization (ala Doug Scott)!  I will see if I can verify this information.   
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: cwoodman on July 30, 2009, 10:02:42 AM
I know Joe well, I'll ask him about it. Sounds like something he would do when he was a kid. No doubt most of the easy slabs and crags in the area had all probably been climbed long before they were documented in any way.  Regardless, climbing the slab is a bit safer now.
Chuck 
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: smartpig on July 30, 2009, 08:37:14 PM
Looks like a great setting- I will have to take a stroll up there some time.  Thanks for posting these climbs, Chuck. 
Jamie
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: slink on September 17, 2010, 06:43:20 AM
Climbed a couple of the routes with Punx and J.D. last weekend before it rained.What a beautiful location to climb in the rock is clean and featured.Good job on the routes Jack and Chuck.
 Jim
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: jlecours on September 17, 2010, 04:17:55 PM
Awesome setting.  Can't wait to check it out.  Thanks Jack and Chuck.
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: M_Sprague on September 17, 2010, 04:44:49 PM
I don't even like slab climbing, but that looks great.  Thanks for the heads up.

With you bad back you might be hunched over climbing like that soon anyway, lol. Better get practicing.

The rock quality and setting looks great, guys.
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: strandman on September 17, 2010, 09:06:54 PM
Worked for me  :D
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: meclimber on September 18, 2010, 08:16:26 AM
ha ha, thanks mark.  I've had a pisser of a summer between wedding and family stuff, quitting my job and now 3 weeks tomorrow with my back.  I think the last time I was out was with you, oh yeah I forgot I hurt my back bouldering in p-way.  Then before that I think i've had 2 days back since the valley.  getting fat and lazy. 

John, didn't you always say a little meat on the bones helps with slab climbing...
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: strandman on September 18, 2010, 10:30:43 AM
Helps the feet stick and pads out for those long bouncers  ;D That's why skinny folks can't do hard slabs- can't get the feet to stick  :o
Title: Re: Parkway Slab
Post by: adamiata on October 11, 2010, 09:45:30 AM
I enjoyed this area with my wife yesterday. It's always nice to have quiet places with mellow climbing to take her to. Thanks for sharing, Chuck and Jack.  :)