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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: Admin Al on May 01, 2011, 12:21:58 AM

Title: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: Admin Al on May 01, 2011, 12:21:58 AM
I saw the line of bolts today when I was playing to the left of Dedication. Brad and I put a TR on that line 2 years ago and it is a nice one. must be 10c tho. anyone know the details?
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: old_school on May 01, 2011, 06:40:39 AM
That one is ours Al. Move it or lose it. Solid 11. Really fun climb. Takes some gear before and after the overlap and mantle move if you wish, but it is not needed. Very sustained right up through the mantle move and eases up a bit for the finish.

Give it a whirl...a really fun route.  ;)
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: perswig on May 01, 2011, 12:42:21 PM
^^
quit bragging and give us a RR trip report
dammit

Dale
(out of action this wkend with a tetanus-vacc inflamed shoulder, and grumpy)
 ;D
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: old_school on May 01, 2011, 06:18:55 PM
Vacines SUCK!!!!!  :P
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: Admin Al on May 01, 2011, 11:16:37 PM
Grammy - OK, I got it... thanks. I may check it out. looks well protected. there was someone on it on Saturday who bailed from about the 3rd bolt. they left a biner there.
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: old_school on May 02, 2011, 09:48:06 AM
Grammy - OK, I got it... thanks. I may check it out. looks well protected. there was someone on it on Saturday who bailed from about the 3rd bolt. they left a biner there.

ooooooo...booty!!!

Consensus seems to be 11a/b. Well protected and totally fun. The moves are really a blast on outstanding rock.
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: strandman on May 02, 2011, 10:09:40 AM
The mark of any good route- BOOTY
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: dpen on May 03, 2011, 10:15:23 AM
Fun features, pumpy....looking forward to trying it again this spring
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: Climber57r on May 03, 2011, 10:43:56 AM
Sounds like a good addition. Let me know when you will be up there Dave...hopefully get in some climbing with ya. s/b up that way this weekend. Enjoy.
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: dpen on May 03, 2011, 08:54:20 PM
Will do J.   A few more weeks of kids spring sports before I get out much.

Dave
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: old_school on May 04, 2011, 11:21:57 AM
The mark of any good route- BOOTY

Yepper.....third one left up there thus far! Two at the crux of Lost and Found too! lol  ;)
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: strandman on May 04, 2011, 07:41:33 PM
i need some more biners. Tim  Toula just put up a 500m 5.8. near me that has 120 bolts. I of course wouldnot normally be atracted  to such a thing but it's 2 minutes from the parking and 8 minutes to the pub

Gettin' old but I still got my priorities
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: sneoh on May 04, 2011, 07:51:36 PM
Really?  About one bolt every 4m?  I bet he did not place them by hand! 
Why would you need more biners?  Are planning to simul-climb the whole thing in one go with a buddy?  :)

Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: perswig on May 04, 2011, 09:35:57 PM
^^
Maybe he's got a good deal on a 500m rope?
(Make that 2 if he's planning on rapping).

 ;D
Dale
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: sneoh on May 04, 2011, 10:00:39 PM
Oh, he will need more than biners if he is going to lead it with a 500m rope.  He will need a winch once he's got 200m of rope out.  Just imagine the rope drag!
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: Admin Al on May 05, 2011, 08:46:43 AM
clipping is going to be tough...
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: MAmedic on May 05, 2011, 11:09:57 PM
500m of 9.8 weighs about 70 lbs.  I see a great training opportunity
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: old_school on May 06, 2011, 10:41:09 AM
Gettin' old but I still got my priorities

Right there with you John! lol  ;)
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: strandman on May 06, 2011, 10:54:03 AM
The mark of any good route- BOOTY

Yepper.....third one left up there thus far! Two at the crux of Lost and Found too! lol  ;)

Pretty soon Hump's is gonna have fixed draws   :D
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on May 06, 2011, 07:57:41 PM
Multi pitch bolted 5.8 close to the road should draw gumbys like flies. solo that thing after work / before the pub 4 or 5 times a week and you should score some booty biners  ;D
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: DLottmann on May 08, 2011, 09:49:00 PM
500m of 9.8 weighs about 70 lbs.  I see a great training opportunity
;D :D ;D
Title: Re: new route right of Bondi Beach?
Post by: strandman on May 09, 2011, 09:36:46 AM
Ya and then some fucker is gonna try to lower w/o a knot and.... OH we already went through that.