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General => Epics and Accidents => Topic started by: strandman on July 07, 2011, 08:35:11 pm

Title: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 07, 2011, 08:35:11 pm
i have hesistated with this for a while but most of those involved don't care anymore ??? There must be some sweet new falls ?

Jimmie Dunn 60' PLUS off the Beast Flake around "79 or so

Kurt Winkler 30' grounder lead crowbarring a bolt on what is now RepoMan

Dougie's tap the foot near grounder on the 3rd of Airation
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Jeff on July 07, 2011, 10:35:22 pm
Friend Bill Brown's 30+ footer out of the top of the 3rd (chimney/layback) pitch on Recompense somewhere around '73. I caught him on a hip belay and had a burn scar across my lower back for about 5 months. :(  We rapped off and didn't return for about a year.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Admin Al on July 08, 2011, 08:28:41 am
my 20 footer off Way In The Wilderness when the pillar completely collapsed on me just before the pin. fell onto a 22cm screw & Screamer, which completely deployed & saved my ass... Toby Savage caught my fall. I still have that Screamer.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 08, 2011, 12:23:09 pm
Bruce Kumph trying to do the f/a of Diagonal at cathedral around '68 ?  Rope solo.

He fell off the bulge and stopped ,unconscious atop the first pitch of Standard.  I'm guessing this around 150' at least. The "rescue" party could not get up Standard and bruce had to solo down after coming to...
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: frik on July 08, 2011, 01:48:56 pm
I remember Al Rubin telling a story of someone taking a huge fall on Diagonal. I never heard anything else about it, and wondered if it ever really happened. The way he told it, the rope caught on a small tree which saved him from ground fall.... the only tree in the area. Nice to know the particulars.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: DLottmann on July 08, 2011, 06:04:37 pm
Bruce Kumph trying to do the f/a of Diagonal at cathedral around '68 ?  Rope solo.

He fell off the bulge and stopped ,unconscious atop the first pitch of Standard.  I'm guessing this around 150' at least. The "rescue" party could not get up Standard and bruce had to solo down after coming to...
:o :o :o

How did he end up 50+ feet to the left of the fall line?
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 08, 2011, 06:27:57 pm
I remember Al Rubin telling a story of someone taking a huge fall on Diagonal. I never heard anything else about it, and wondered if it ever really happened. The way he told it, the rope caught on a small tree which saved him from ground fall.... the only tree in the area. Nice to know the particulars.

Bruce told me this story in the company of Al... crazyremember, bruce was a Draper lab guy, a bit crazy anyway

He pendulumed way left (over that big block) and landed in the trees.So the fall was maybe 150, with a 50 pengy added on.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Jeff on July 08, 2011, 10:59:17 pm
Any idea what Bruce is doing now, or where he is? I haven't heard of him in over 25 years. Last I knew he was doing a lot of road bike riding/racing.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 09, 2011, 09:56:13 am
Bruce is no longer with us.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Jeff on July 09, 2011, 10:01:32 pm
RIP Bruce-- I am very sorry I hadn't heard! BITD we had some good days out.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 11, 2011, 09:58:52 am
BITD a very well known local guide (we'll call him Kurt  ;) attempting to do the second ascent of P2 Grand Finale on Cathedral.

Fires all the way to the belay ledge and then peels off, knee scraping many feet along the lip of the Mordor Wall !!!! Very glad he didn't go 3' lower 'cause I don't know if the rope would survive the swing.

Nice , pitch 10 D , kinda R
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: tradmanclimbz on July 11, 2011, 07:13:08 pm
My work on ladders has convinced me trhat most climbing storys involve a serious ammount of Climbers math  ;D  When you stand at the top of a 28ft ladder and look down, then you realize that the working height is only 24ft  mor likly 22ft even if you stand on the top rung OSHA be damned. now look down and think of that last 30footer you took. probobly not as far as that 24ft you are looking at from your ladder. 

 Climbers math goes a bit like this.
The first time a story is told the run out and fall lengths are about 2/3rds of the actual distance and the dificulty of the runout is  usually correct or slightly inflated. Depending on how much booze is consumed by the time the story has been told half a dozen times the distances are more like 1/2 the real value and the dificulty has grown by at least a grade ;)
 
 All that being said and keeping in mind that i do not drink. My upside down screamer out of the great dihedral a few years ago must have been real close to 30ft. apretty sure that the bolt is about 12 to 15 ft from the LA and there is some slack and rope streatch to factor in.

 Took a long gear ripper off of Mt Horrid  one december adventure climbing. Iced up crack, over dressed and socks in my rock shoes. Can't fee climb for crap when i have too many cloths on and feel like I should be ice climbing :P that one was close to 30 as well.. a few other close calls on shorter falls with bad things to hit.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 12, 2011, 09:34:16 am
HA ! Except when we want to sandbag the next party and downplay the fall potential  :D of course I would not do that.

I actually took a whipper once that got "upgraded" from it's original distance.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: tradmanclimbz on July 12, 2011, 04:52:22 pm
So in Actuasl climbers math the general rule is 1/2 8)  guy starts spraying shit about the 30 footer he just took and  you can rest assured that it was actually  in real life about 15ft ::)
 
 don't believe me look up the pitch descriptions in many of the old guide books and then see how many of those 150ft pitches you  link with your new 200ft rope.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 12, 2011, 05:23:43 pm
That's because things shrink with age, Nick   ;)
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: steve weitzler on July 12, 2011, 05:33:50 pm
And to think they call them "fish stories." Go figure.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on July 12, 2011, 05:43:58 pm
That's 'cause on a real whipper,, ya gotta real 'm in
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: tradmanclimbz on July 12, 2011, 06:01:00 pm
Heck i remember when dracula was a 2 pitch testpiece with the first pitch described as a Long pitch. the whole rout is only about 80ft of actual climbing. it's about 115 ft from the belay tree on the left at the bottom  to the belay tree on the right at the top with a good 30 to 40ft of that the snowfield at the bottom of the climb.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on August 10, 2011, 10:49:26 am
Maybe the recent fall on the Prow will make it here.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Admin Al on August 10, 2011, 01:04:12 pm
Maybe the recent fall on the Prow will make it here.

I would think so...
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on August 10, 2011, 06:28:32 pm
OK , I'm 15' from the belay tree at Albany Slabs, I'm looking at it. But it's a no go and time to downclimb, slip on the lichen and off to the races, skipping down the slab on my hip.

TC is reeling in the rope hand over hand and i stop MAYBE 15' from the belay. We said 70' , but maybe closer to 90'. Silly me went back and lead it the next month. Nice route, better TR

Reelin' In The Fears 10b X
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: tradmanclimbz on August 10, 2011, 09:08:28 pm
Yea, Its not always Climbers math..  ther are times when ther are known  distances involved...   but a whole lot of the time it is climbers math    ;)
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: cwoodman on August 11, 2011, 10:49:48 am
I was belaying my long time climbing partner Kenny Parker on Reppy's one time around '82. It was his first lead of the crack, and as he was exiting the pod some 80 feet up, he slipped off, turned upside down and fell down the slab. Unfortunately, he had neglected to clip the bong which was pounded into the bottom of the pod in those days. He came careening down right towards me, pulling out one or two more pieces along the way, and a split second later he was staring me in the face, not more than five feet above my head. Of course, I hadn't anchored in to anything, so I was pulled up the slab a few feet as well. Talk about a dynamic belay! After muttering a few WTF's, I lowered him to the ground, we exchanged nervous chuckles, then we switched ends and I finished off the climb. Maybe it's a little bit of climber's math, but I figured that fall/slide to be at least 60 feet. Luckily for Ken, the slab is very smooth and he ended up shaken, not broken. He lives in Boulder these days and still climbs regularly in Eldo, et al.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: DLottmann on August 12, 2011, 03:27:56 pm
OK , I'm 15' from the belay tree at Albany Slabs, I'm looking at it. But it's a no go and time to downclimb, slip on the lichen and off to the races, skipping down the slab on my hip.

TC is reeling in the rope hand over hand and i stop MAYBE 15' from the belay. We said 70' , but maybe closer to 90'. Silly me went back and lead it the next month. Nice route, better TR

Reelin' In The Fears 10b X

And so the name Slip of Fools was created huh? Since itís your route and you call it ďa better TRĒ why donít you go back and fix it with 1 bolt? *readies flame shield*
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: tradmanclimbz on August 13, 2011, 06:54:01 am
Dave that would require common sense and a touch of community  ;)  Strand has made it rather clear that he has neither ;D
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on August 13, 2011, 11:55:34 am
OK , I'm 15' from the belay tree at Albany Slabs, I'm looking at it. But it's a no go and time to downclimb, slip on the lichen and off to the races, skipping down the slab on my hip.

TC is reeling in the rope hand over hand and i stop MAYBE 15' from the belay. We said 70' , but maybe closer to 90'. Silly me went back and lead it the next month. Nice route, better TR

Reelin' In The Fears 10b X

And so the name Slip of Fools was created huh? Since itís your route and you call it ďa better TRĒ why donít you go back and fix it with 1 bolt? *readies flame shield*
Believe it or not, i did think about it. Actually 2-3 bolts would be better.

#1  I'm 2,000 miles away

#2  The route to the left Fool's for a Day is agood route and you can tr Reelin' easy

Anyone ?
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on August 16, 2011, 11:23:21 am
I also don't have a problem with a bolt being put in Cash Flow, the direct start to Waiitng for Comeau. It would make the route better as you would not have to climb the often wet corner.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: DLottmann on August 16, 2011, 09:46:28 pm
I also don't have a problem with a bolt being put in Cash Flow, the direct start to Waiitng for Comeau. It would make the route better as you would not have to climb the often wet corner.

Damn glad to hear that... if another local doesnít hop on that I might!
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: SA on August 22, 2011, 07:58:13 am
In regards to Bruce Kumph, which many of you probably never knew. According to his son, Bruce was murdered in his apartment in Boston. I had the pleasure of teaching his son, Muir, at Brookline High School, in Massachusetts.

I am glad to say, that the project he made in my shop, was very instrumental in Muir gaining admittance to MIT, school of Mechanical Engineering. Last I heard, he was working for a robotics company.

Muir wrote me a letter, detailing why his experience in my class was so influential in his future career. I value things like that.

Bruce Kumph was a great guy!
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Jeff on August 22, 2011, 01:52:16 pm
Thanks, Steve, I remember Bruce well, and am glad his son sent you those words; as a fellow retired high school teacher and coach I know how much such seemingly little gestures can mean!! To any others out there who had a teacher who inspired or helped them, Steve's statement that he values such simple messages goes, I believe, for all in the profession. Let such a person know how he/she influenced your life before it is too late for them to appreciate it.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on August 22, 2011, 07:10:47 pm
paul Duval was a teacher as well- he showed me how to properly roll a joint.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: JoeC on May 31, 2013, 08:35:58 pm
theres gotta be some more out there!
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on June 01, 2013, 08:53:39 am
Jimmie Dunn fell off the Beast Flake once, from the top..that's all I'm saying
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: JoeC on June 02, 2013, 02:42:29 pm
Um. Yea.  Anyone know the rest of that story?  I just read on mountainproject someone took a 35+ foot whiper off recompense
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on June 02, 2013, 04:43:49 pm
I do know the rest of the story, but it shall remain a mystery....
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: JoeC on June 02, 2013, 06:10:04 pm
The mystery remains
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on June 02, 2013, 08:47:37 pm
Daring Doug madera-- the original "kid" in N Conway-

attempting the second free ascent of Airation falls off way up and the foot "lightly taps the ledge" -- paul Ross

nextyear attempting the Book- Women link up.. whips and leaves a lichen free swath that is seen for years.. many feet
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: SA on June 10, 2013, 10:44:26 am
I took a few 30 footers in the Gunks and on Cathedral BITD.

I came close to breaking something when on the 1st ascent of Intimidation, I fell at the top of the awkward, diagonal crack, on the 4th pitch. My feet hit the belay ledge hard, but I went back up finishing the route, climbing thru the dense lichen covered slab on the top. We never pre-cleaned back then.

As I've mentioned before, my longest fall was zippering an entire pitch of A4, on the Prow, in Yosemite, while soloing it. A 1/4 inch bolt finally stopped my 100 ft+ fall.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Jeff on June 10, 2013, 11:54:36 am
See, BITD, we "knew" those 1/4 inchers were "bomber"! 8) :-\
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: marklynch on June 11, 2013, 11:03:10 am
Um. Yea.  Anyone know the rest of that story?  I just read on mountainproject someone took a 35+ foot whiper off recompense

Yes that was me!   :)  Last pitch.  Scary at the time but looking back taught me that finger cracks with my large hands are hard, that shallow small nut placements backing up old rotten pins had better be good and that I love that #2 Camalot!   

Young, tired and sweaty!  Still have the pin and I no longer climb in 90 degree heat.   >:(

Seriously, many lessons learned that day but a learning experience I never forgot!

Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: Admin Al on June 11, 2013, 11:15:40 am
Seriously, many lessons learned that day but a learning experience I never forgot!

the good thing is that you are around to be telling the tale!
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: kenreville on June 11, 2013, 06:59:52 pm
Um. Yea.  Anyone know the rest of that story?  I just read on mountainproject someone took a 35+ foot whiper off recompense

Yes that was me!   :)  Last pitch.  Scary at the time but looking back taught me that finger cracks with my large hands are hard, that shallow small nut placements backing up old rotten pins had better be good and that I love that #2 Camalot!   

Young, tired and sweaty!  Still have the pin and I no longer climb in 90 degree heat.   >:(

Seriously, many lessons learned that day but a learning experience I never forgot!

Ya got big hands?

Offwidths baby. Offwidths....
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on June 12, 2013, 09:19:10 am
I thought you would quote the "young, tired and sweaty" bit  :) But big hands as well ??
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: marklynch on June 17, 2013, 09:02:13 am
I thought you would quote the "young, tired and sweaty" bit  :) But big hands as well ??

Got it all baby!   ;)

So good to be out rock climbing again!  I missed this type of banter.  There are waaay too many uptight and serious folks in the world.  Great weekend.  Good to have some gut wrenching laughs and spend time with folks on the same path of adventure and good times.  Laugh people.  Life is good.
Title: Re: LONGEST pLUMMET'S
Post by: strandman on June 17, 2013, 09:13:48 am
Good one Lynchie  !! 8)