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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: dpen on August 01, 2011, 10:13:33 PM

Title: Around the Corner
Post by: dpen on August 01, 2011, 10:13:33 PM
Around the Corner (5.10)

Description:  Starts 15 ft left of Tree Keys, directly in front of the beech tree.  The route consists of a slab to a nicely featured face and then finishes up a steep corner.

Pitch 1: Step up on nice rock to clip the first bolt.  Step onto the ledge and lay the crack back to the right (protected by cams).  When the crack ends, step left onto the face with nicely featured rock protected by bolts. Surmount the face onto a ledge.  Follow the corner up past three bolts ( crux) to join the last bolt and anchor on Tree Keys.

Gear: 7 bolts, 2 cams, 1 optional cam before exit, or just pull on thru.   Cams are small to medium
Descent:  Single rope rappel from Tree Keys anchor.

History:  7/31/2011 -  Dave Penny, Chris Graham, Bob Ahearn 

Dave discovered the route when he bailed right around a corner from a 5.12 project.  Under heavy lichen he found nicely featured rock, which he used to climb up and retrieve his top rope anchor.

Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: old_school on August 01, 2011, 10:17:12 PM
Good send the other day Dave, really fun route and a nice addition to "The Hump"!  ;)
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: slink on August 02, 2011, 01:12:10 AM
Dave looks like you will be leading when we climb. I am old and out of climbing shape. Looking forward to being home soon. We have been pushed back a bit.
 Jim
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: perswig on August 02, 2011, 07:03:23 AM
Go, Dave!

Dale
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: dpen on August 02, 2011, 08:47:51 AM
Thanks Jim and Dale, I look forward to catching up soon.  Hopefully you guys can get over to Humphrey's at some point and see what you think of this route.

Dave
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: Climber57r on August 02, 2011, 09:50:01 PM
Nice job Dave. I can not wait to get on another test at the Ledge. Nice to run into you guys the other day. Enjoy.

J
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: dpen on August 02, 2011, 10:46:35 PM
Thx J.   Yeah,  let me know what you think.

Good to see you too.   Let's catch up before the seasons out...
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: M_Sprague on August 03, 2011, 04:58:35 PM
Now I have that nursery rhyme running through my head  :-\
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: Admin Al on August 04, 2011, 07:42:18 AM
cool guys... nice to have some more trad routes in the Geriatric Walls that are a bit harder. how about a picture?
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: old_school on August 04, 2011, 08:11:31 AM
cool guys... nice to have some more trad routes in the Geriatric Walls that are a bit harder. how about a picture?

WE should have a few by this weekend  ;)
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: strandman on August 04, 2011, 07:54:41 PM
Now I have that nursery rhyme running through my head  :-\

Jack & Jill went.........

Sing along Mark
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: old_school on August 05, 2011, 08:44:37 PM
There are 8 bolts on Around the corner and a couple of gear placement opportunities between the first and second bolt (20'). It is a really fun route...a bit pumpy in spots and thought provoking on the upper crux.  ;)
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: Climber57r on August 06, 2011, 06:37:47 PM
Great addition to the Hump...and job on the clean up. Nice send today..thanks for the chalked crimper on the right at the crux... ;) nice rock...good find.

J
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: dpen on August 07, 2011, 12:04:51 PM
Hey J, way to go, glad you liked it.

What do you think of the rating?

D
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: Climber57r on August 07, 2011, 01:31:52 PM
Hey there Dave...the rating I think is good. The route/crux definately holds your attention for a few moves and is well protected to not hit the ledge  :). I do not know if a bolt was added or not as I only needed to get one cam in between bolts low down to keep it safe. Once again thanks to everyone involved to make this a great area to climb... ;)

J
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: dpen on August 07, 2011, 01:45:36 PM
We did add a bolt.   When did FA I used a cam then slung the juniper then stepped onto the face and up to two bolts on face.  I also used a cam in horizontal down low -  just after 1st bolt, but that doesn't do a ton for you...

The juniper was looking pretty old, and we figured we didn't want to abuse the thing, so we added a bolt (tan) lower on the face after placing a cam and stepping up into the crack....

D
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: Admin Al on August 08, 2011, 02:45:42 PM
Joe Perez told me that he tried it the other day. he felt that the crux moves were quite a bit harder for "short people". he's a strong climber too...
Title: Re: Around the Corner
Post by: old_school on August 08, 2011, 05:11:35 PM
Joe Perez told me that he tried it the other day. he felt that the crux moves were quite a bit harder for "short people". he's a strong climber too...

I would agree with Joe Al. The feet are thin and you need them to get the holds in the corner...somewhat height dependent..but then again...Lynn Hill is 4' nothing...  ;)