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General => Climbing Gear Q & A => Topic started by: frik on November 08, 2011, 01:05:17 pm

Title: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: frik on November 08, 2011, 01:05:17 pm
I've been using la sportiva's mythos for quite a while now and like them for general purpose climbing.
I think for hard slabby work they are ok but not great.
Any opinions ?


Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: strandman on November 08, 2011, 02:43:37 pm
If they still make it, no doubt the Boreal Ninja..  Gotta toughen up the toes a bit for max usage though... I also like my Red Chili velcro's
Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: DLottmann on November 08, 2011, 03:37:25 pm
IMO for 5.7 and under- 5.10 Guide Tennies. Itís all I wear on Standard Route or Sliding Board on Whitehorse. They work a little better as the little circles wear down.

Menís & Womenís : http://www.ems.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=guide%20tennie&origkw=Guide+Tennie&sr=1

5.8 and up, 5.10 VMile is what I am in now, very comfy all day trad shoe.

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=five+ten+vmile&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#q=five+ten+vmile&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=SpO5TtOfEdDo2gXds-ydBw&ved=0CE0QrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=dff7c0f88e4ddd58&biw=1024&bih=684

EMS doesnít carry them, but can special order emí.

-disclaimer, ya I work for EMS.
Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: sneoh on November 08, 2011, 08:57:36 pm
So what are people's thoughts about whether a soft shoe or harder shoe is better for hard(er) slabs?
I think some hard slabs were climbed with Sportiva Megas which are stiff as anything ever made.

What I know is all these modern aggressive, toe-down, asymmetric soled shoes are pretty hopeless on true slabs (not to be lumped together with thin, technical face).

Edit: Mythos is a very good all-around shoe.  I had 3 pairs of them before I discovered Miuras which are better on thin face than Mythos.  That said, I think Mythos might be better on pure slab than Miuras although I feel quite comfortable smearing with my fully broken-in Miuras (which are soft enough to feel OK on 30 deg overhung routes).

Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: old_school on November 09, 2011, 08:01:00 am
I am climbing 5.11 slab in my Galileos and really like how they perform. One word of caution however is that the new design feels a bit more aggressive than it use to be with a bit more pressure on the heel in an effort to make it perform better on edge. Mine are starting to soften a bit, and as the rubber wears away, the sensitivity is getting better....so, like wine, the galileos seem to get better with age.
Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: strandman on November 09, 2011, 10:57:49 am
My old Mega's were great, with S2 rubber of course.  A toe down design will kill you on slabs
Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: sneoh on November 09, 2011, 07:32:37 pm
Assume you have a great pair of shoes for slabs and and technical face and you need to give them a resole.
Which rubber would you choose?
I used C4 many moons ago for about two years and found that they wear too fast and are really prone to 'pitting'.  Annoying.
Since then, I have stayed with 4mm XS or XSV the past 10+ yeras and do not have a lot to complain about.
How is the Five Ten Oynx?  A lot of shoes come with it out of the box, including the Galileo.


Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: Admin Al on November 09, 2011, 08:57:00 pm
I know it's counterintuitive, but the Tommy Caldwell's are great on slab. heck, they're great on everything...
Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: Jeff on November 09, 2011, 10:20:22 pm
My favorites have been--1st Megas--discontinued, 2nd Synchros--Discontinued,  now Tradmasters --you guessed it--seemingly discontinued!  But I have 2 pair which have been resoled once each and a brand new pair in the box on a shelf in my gear room  ;D ;D   My feet are tough to fit (pretty extreme Morton's toe on each foot) and I hate that shoes are discontinued just when I find one which really works and can be worn in some degree of comfort. As for downturned toes on a slab-- I shudder to think of the pain I'd suffer! I can't even wear them on over hanging boulders where I have much less weight on my feet. I'm happy with the original tradmaster rubber but have had them resoled with C4, FWIW
Title: Re: Whats the best slab shoe
Post by: old_school on November 10, 2011, 11:58:35 am
C4 pits like crazy but sticks like glue. I maintained my C4 with sandpaper and paint thinner...worked like a charm. Onyx is far better IMHO, but after a season or so, it too will begin to degrade and break down a bit...certainly not as fast as the C4. I think as long as you stay up with sole maintenence and take care of them, you should get a solid couple of seasons out of the Onyx if not more.

I personally had two very bad experiences with the XS Edge that Sportiva equipts its TC PRo with, I thought the rubber sucked  >:( , but to each his own. I sold the shoes after a pretty poor showing at Humphrey's and then again at the SOuth Butt. Someone got a good deal on a pair of very comfortable shoes. If I do it all over again, I will buy a pair of used TC pros and resole them immediately with Onyx...best of both worlds.   ;)