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General => Conditions => Topic started by: Admin Al on December 16, 2011, 11:32:49 PM

Title: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on December 16, 2011, 11:32:49 PM
if someone has been up there lately, please post about it...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JBro on December 18, 2011, 08:37:03 PM
Bare ground down low. Maybe 3" or so of snow above 2500'.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on December 25, 2011, 05:33:21 PM
Brrrr! -4 today -6 forcast for Thursday. That's it, enough Winter. I am ready for a nice warm, bug free and bone dry Spring now. http://www.climbingweather.com/New-Hampshire/Green%27s-Cliff (http://www.climbingweather.com/New-Hampshire/Green%27s-Cliff)
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Jeff on December 25, 2011, 11:10:02 PM

"I'm ready for a warm, bug free and bone dry Spring now." In NH??  :o I'd like some of what you're smokin' 8)
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on December 26, 2011, 07:50:13 AM
very true, and besides...winter just now got here!  ::)
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Jeff on December 26, 2011, 09:43:09 AM
Barely, so far!! ???


Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: eyebolter on December 26, 2011, 05:43:25 PM
Winter?  Mrs. Eyebolter and the four month old went out bouldering in the sun today.  35 degrees, blue sky and rhino horns!  Bouldering barefoot in a pullover hardly qualifies as winter.  I'm starting to believe Al Gore.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: sneoh on December 26, 2011, 07:57:45 PM
Ella - naturally the youngest member of Team Tough! :)
Has it been four months already?  That went by fast.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 26, 2011, 09:42:14 PM
Full Blown winter in the notch today! COLD, Brittle and WINDY.....  8)
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 27, 2011, 08:02:07 PM
Sunset from the Dike walk off.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: apbt1976 on December 27, 2011, 09:55:17 PM
Sunset from the Dike walk off.

Took my first trip up the Dike this past Friday. What a beautiful climb!! Leaves me very hungry....
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JChepes on January 22, 2012, 09:32:54 PM
Climbed Winterlude Saturday.  Not thick at all.  Backed off mid-way.  Resorted to TR.  Is this flow
usually quite thick in a good year?
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Joe_Re on February 10, 2012, 01:37:52 PM
Way In The Wilderness?  Anyone been by there lately?
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on February 10, 2012, 03:05:17 PM
Way In The Wilderness?  Anyone been by there lately?

I have not heard anything about it lately. with the warm temps I would be surprised if it is in good shape. if you are going to head out there I would suggest a very early start. that alcove becomes an oven by 11AM at this time of year.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: DLottmann on February 10, 2012, 10:16:35 PM
Gotta be hurtin...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on March 20, 2012, 06:06:50 PM
Anybody notice how the higher elevations off the Kanc are looking, i.e.. Green's and Owl's ? I'm wondering if the snow is disappearing to judge when the mud season might be over for biking in. I would love to get a window before the bugs move in.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on March 20, 2012, 06:48:32 PM
Mark, that's really a good one !!!! I bet thebugs will be out this month.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: DWT on March 20, 2012, 07:22:34 PM
If it helps, the write-up from the Mount Washington Observatory has some before and after photos(last 24 hours).  The snow's nearly gone.  It's pretty far from Green's though.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: DGoguen on March 21, 2012, 07:27:45 AM
Anybody notice how the higher elevations off the Kanc are looking, i.e..

I went up Hedgehog the other day and there was still enough to posthole a bit. But Greens is on the other side of the road with a different exposure.
The Kanc seems to hang in there every year.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on March 21, 2012, 07:54:45 AM
Thanks guys. Even once the snow is gone, the road in to Greens from Bear Notch seems to stay very soft for a while. I have sunk in almost to my knee in the gravel before.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on March 21, 2012, 09:14:09 AM
I rode up Bear Notch Road to the gate a few days ago. there was still a lot of snow on the main road, snowmobiles still riding up there, and also on the Rob Brook fire road. I think you are still quite a while before you get in there.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on April 15, 2012, 09:16:28 AM
FYI: both Bear Notch Road and Passaconaway Road are still gated...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on April 21, 2012, 12:01:23 AM
As of today, conditions out at Green's were great. Even Greenpeace which often has a wet spot was bone dry. Rob Brook road was much drier than normal for this time of year and would have been fine to ride. It was only a little soft just before the Birch Hill Cut off. Along the Kank, there were still some snow patches at high elevation  on the north facing slopes, but nothing at the crag. I barely noticed any bugs at all, and they were certainly not biting or harassing. Owl's must be in great shape too. Hopefully we will get another week or two before the bugs hit.

By the way, I didn't bring a bike this time and the hike out via Rob Brook (the long way, avoiding the river crossing) was only 2 1/2 hrs at a leisurly pace, the way in slightly longer, so it was not bad at all.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on April 21, 2012, 07:19:53 AM
the rivers are unsurprisingly low for this time of year. it really feels more like mid-summer...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 01, 2012, 08:19:56 PM
As of yesterday, still no bugs at all at Green's. More of those 25 degree nights, please! It was pretty much ideal sending weather too. Owl's must have been great the last 2 days also. The trilliums are just starting to bloom, so I am sure the bugs are on their way.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on May 01, 2012, 11:51:13 PM
bugs were definitely out at Found Ledge on Monday. the blackflies were starting to nibble! it's going top be brutal when it warms up in a couple of days.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 07, 2012, 08:24:54 AM
It must have rained like crazy last week. Green's this weekend was running with rivers of water. Only the first pitch of the project near I'm Still Here was completely dry. A couple more days of sun and most should be good to go though. There were still pretty much no bugs at the crag, but while Dima and I rode out Sunday we encountered quite a few of them and they seemed to be gathering forces quickly. They weren't biting, but I am sure I will get eaten alive next weekend. I wouldn't suggest making the trip out to Green's or Owl's Cliff for a while unless you are a masochist and like lots of bug spray.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on May 07, 2012, 03:07:50 PM
beautiful & dry Sat-Monday, but it looks as if the rest of the week will be poor. [sigh] bugs are definitely getting on it. I was getting bitten up by the Mineral Site cliff by the Moats today.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: sneoh on May 07, 2012, 04:56:39 PM
Plenty of flies of all sorts at Rumney yesterday but very few biting ones.  Plenty of easy kills.
That said, the climbs at Orange Crush were in poor climbing shape.  Lots of water everywhere.  Mosquitoes will be along shortly too.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on March 11, 2013, 09:16:28 PM
How is it looking off the Kanc, all snow free, dry, 50 degrees and sunny yet? I'm wondering how deep the snow pack is in the higher woods.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on April 18, 2013, 06:01:50 PM
Anybody driven across the Kanc or better yet hiked in the area in the last few days and noticed if the snow looks gone out towards Owl's and Greens? I'm really hoping to get out and clean and throw a few bolts in on the second pitches of a couple projects at Owls  before the bugs hit. I am contemplating driving up late tonight or later in the weekend and wonder if it would be worth an attempt. As soon as I can get them done we'll have a couple really sweet 2 pitch 5.10+s for everybody to do.  :)
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: mopowers on April 18, 2013, 06:24:03 PM
Hey Mark-  Still snow in the higher elevations around my place, not sure if thats any indication. I plan to get out to Green's for a weekend very soon. Hopefully you can join us.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on April 18, 2013, 06:38:20 PM
I attempted to ride the bike up Bear Notch from the Bartlett side on Tuesday. I was thwarted no more than 1/4 mile up by quite a lot of snow. I met a gentleman on his way down who said he had walked all the way to the top and described it as a "ton of snow up there!" If that's any indication, I would figure you got a while before you're getting in there. FWIW there were fresh snowmobile tracks up above where I stopped!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on April 18, 2013, 07:24:07 PM
Thanks much, Al. Saved me a bunch of driving and wasted time. It sounds like I'll have to wait another week at least. Even with it fairly clear down by the road I have ended up with some pretty deep postholing a little ways up  Rob Brook before. Both crags are just under 3000 ft elevation

Dave. I'm psyched for Greens,  but am pretty sure my two most immediate projects there will be wet for a while. That is why I was thinking my Owls projects first.(also no river crossing and less wet soggy road to walk) Let me know when you are thinking of going though, and I'll try to come along. I always have stuff to do out there. At Owls I also would like to bolt the slab between the Alaskan Slab and Lonesome Owl. I TRed it with Olga and it was really nice. I'll skip the 13 finish for now  :D and put an anchor in at the overlap for an easy 11.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on April 18, 2013, 11:39:40 PM
...an easy 11.

what an oxymoron...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on April 20, 2013, 08:20:26 AM
Well, compared to a hard 11  ;)
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Jeff on April 20, 2013, 12:42:02 PM
Hard 11= redundancy reigns, tautologically speaking! :P
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on April 20, 2013, 03:31:50 PM
Mark - it's really 10+.. right ?
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on April 30, 2013, 11:18:09 AM
10+ it is John. I think I am going to rate everything 10+ from now on unless it is easier. There is nothing harder than 10+

I was out at Owls the last two days. It was absolutely gorgeous, perfect climbing weather. There were definitely wet spots and water running down in streaks, but things were drier than I expected, with plenty climbable. There was some snow patches to navigate on the way in, but they were disappearing quickly. I am guessing they will be pretty much gone by next weekend. The trail in from the forest road (at least to the left cliff) was easily followable, with good cairns marking the start. There were absolutely no bugs. Hopefully we will get another week or maybe two before they come in and get hideous.

I was working on putting the two bolts I wanted on the second pitch of Lady of the Lake and rescrubbing for finally doing the lead. That pitch is so wild, a little easy off-width to hands then fingercrack to an airy stance, then work you way out the overhangs at the top. For a 200 foot climb it is wicked exposed. I was getting the  :-\ factor even climbing it on TR self belay. Old school 10+. The first pitch has gotten pretty dirty and the climbing is not as great. I'll re-clean it, but a better link up is to do the Unnamed Corner 10a for the first pitch since it brings you to the same belay ledge. NH 4 stars for sure. Of course I found another wild 2 pitch line to the left past Sporty Owl, with the final pitch following a crack up the side of a jutting prow, so started cleaning that. It looks like it may go all trad.

People ask me which is better, Owl's or Greens. Coming from climbing mostly at Greens the last few years, they are both about the same height at their tallest, but with the steep jutting features, Owls gives more sense of exposure. The rock is usually good, but courser grained and not as hard as some of that at Green's. My verdict is that they are both great with classic routes at both. Owls lends its self to more closely packed routes and it is more developed. Green's routes are more spaced apart, following clean, obvious lines.

Speaking of Greens, I ran in to David Powers and Matt Elliott at the parking lot. They had just come from Greens and said somebody had left a bunch of toilet paper clumps around the bivy area and had randomly cut some fir trees down at  hip height and left them,  probably over the winter. It was really disappointing to hear. I'm guessing it was some  idiotic kids, but I have been surprised at the stupidity of some climbers before. Please don't shit around the bivy area and where you do, bury it well, and if you can't do that because it is winter, carefully burn or carry out the paper. Some people should be taken out of the gene pool before they breed. There is not exactly a shortage of trees in NE, so it doesn't bother me if a tree gets cut for good reason, but randomly cutting them off and leaving a mess  :-[

Rob Brook Rd is still a little soft for riding efficiently but should harden up quickly. As usual in the spring, per Matt and David, the road up along Birch Hill to get to Green's is a sloppy mess..better to freeze you legs for a few minutes and do the Swift River fording way in.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on April 30, 2013, 05:32:26 PM
Right 10+ for all

I have biked farther along the robbrook instead of going the birch hill way, then a sharp cut back right, brings you under the boulder field.  The  couple minutes in the river may be better though.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 07, 2013, 09:30:53 AM
It was fantastic out at Owls this weekend. No bugs until just a few Monday that weren't biting. Things were dry for the most part with just a few seeps over on the White Owl face that should be gone soon. I expect the bugs will be there next weekend, but with things so dry maybe we won't get hit hard (hoping at least).

Some climbing was getting done while I worked on routes. John and Jordan were there for the weekend and after a day at Greens Adam and Tom Bowker hiked over for Sunday. I posted photos over on MountainProject, but here is one of Adam getting the on-sight of Crack of the World (http://www.mountainproject.com/images/0/95/108130095_medium_6d6fd3.jpg?1367930646)
and one of John and Jordan on p3, The RGC
(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/0/69/108130069_medium_a0dc2e.jpg?1367929210)
Wish I could get my shadow out of the pic.

I got the slab between Lonesome Owl and the Alaskan Slab all bolted with the help of John and Jordan checking bolt placements (thanks mopowers for the bolts), anchors on a new 2 pitch project and some scrubbing done.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: eyebolter on May 07, 2013, 10:41:54 AM
Great pics Mark, I'm heading out there this summer once Mrs. Eyebolter is on summer vacation.   RGC would be more crowded than Funhouse if it was on Cathedral.

Only climbing within 10 minutes of home for now, but have just cleaned out a great new cave that is all shady and has one V6 so far, and three much harder lines.   Have lost weight but not enough.....
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 07, 2013, 11:45:01 AM
Great news, Ward. It will be nice having the crew out there again. I'll try to get as much ready to climb for when you can make it. I need to get a good long steep warm-up in over on the right wall. I am feeling like an out of shape porker too. I have taken to climbing slabs so I can get up anything. The tweaky edges of Little Wing felt mean Sunday. I need to get over and boulder with you to get my fingers back.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: crazyt on May 07, 2013, 01:01:43 PM
Great pics Mark. MP too! Greens on Saturday and Owls Sunday with a rope gun like Adam made for the best weekend of the season so far. The quality of the lines is 2nd to none. Worth the effort to get out there. Green Peace is mother natures gift to climbers!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: mopowers on May 07, 2013, 02:38:11 PM
GREAT pictures guys! Owls cliff is now at the top of my destination list.

What a weekend Tom! Greens,Owls and lots of hard climbing in one weekend. Kudos to you and your partner.

Mark, i will refrain from climbing your new slab route at Owls if i get out there soon. I have a nasty habit of jumping on routes before they are done, sorry about that. That RGC is going to be my primary goal, Crack of the World looks a little steep for me.

Thanks for sharing guys. This is all great stuff for someone who was inside working all weekend.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: eyebolter on May 07, 2013, 03:02:14 PM
I expect the bugs will be there next weekend, but with things so dry maybe we won't get hit hard (hoping at least).



Bugs have been out for a couple of weeks here, and maybe the smallest hatch of black flies that I have ever seen.   No mosquitoes yet, but unless things change (as they usually do)  :P it could be a very good bug year, and a bad one for the garden.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 07, 2013, 03:34:16 PM
Get on it if you would like David. It is all about the discovery, line and movement for me. It could use a quick sweep of the rock dust. I have TRed it a couple of times already in the process of figuring out where it goes, which is my usual operandi, so getting the first lead ascent of a line is not usually super  important to me. If it is,  I will put a red tag on it. I also have so many projects it would be unconscionable of me to expect everybody to stay off all of them. When they are ready, I turn a lot of my projects over to friends so they can try for the a vue FA.. My vanity still likes to get some credit so being  part of the ascent team as the second even is cool. It let's me move on to other projects faster!

Ward, it is going to be a great garden year! ..as long as the water table doesn't drop so much I can't water it. I'm really getting into my garden this year. It could be a bad year for fires though. Be super careful if you have one.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: xcrag_corex on May 07, 2013, 05:32:27 PM
Thanks for sharing guys. This is all great stuff for someone who was inside working all weekend.
totally agree with that.....it was a beautiful weekend and being stuck working sucked!!! awesome pics of people getting after it!!!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on May 07, 2013, 05:39:18 PM
Great pics guys. Looks like you have really been going at it.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on June 17, 2014, 07:51:02 PM
I hiked out to the Main Wall of Greens from Sawyer pond trail yesterday to check on conditions. It was buggy (mostly mosquitoes and deer flies), but not as bad as usual for this time of year. I got along fine with just spray for most of the day. I didn't notice any black flies. The rock had some seepage, but it looked liked a couple dry days would clear most of it up. The place is like Findhorn: vegetation at the base of routes seems to grow back at triple speed! ..needs more traffic.
The way in was easy to follow IMO, with the few buswhacky spots after the junction for the NE crags well flagged. I do suggest not pushing it though and hoping to find your way out under headlamp. Also, bring a GPS or at least a compass and map just in case. It is 1.77 miles from the Sawyer pond parking to the Main Wall. It took me 40 min hiking back out quickly with a few short stops for Guiness. I bet somebody in shape could do it in 30, Alfonzo about 5   :P More info on MP, including a link to a GPX file for the way to the NE crags.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on June 18, 2014, 05:53:18 PM
Hell, it doesn't really count anymore, does it ?

40 minutes ?  shit that's how long it takes for Cannon  8) You need to go farther..mark
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on February 16, 2015, 07:51:29 AM
Drove up to check on Way In The Wilderness on Thursday. Picture in this weeks Report. It looks fine, and with this cold I'm sure it will stay that way. There was also an interesting pillar to the right that I took a picture of as well. Let me know if anyone goes out there.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: NEAlpineStart on February 20, 2015, 05:16:41 PM
Report coming soon? It still is 2/12 report....
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on February 20, 2015, 05:58:10 PM
Report coming soon? It still is 2/12 report....
Report coming soon? It still is 2/12 report....

It was emailed Thursday as usual plus it's on Facebook now. I'm out of town so haven't had time or ability to post here via phone.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 05, 2015, 09:16:38 PM
How are the mid elevations looking these days? I am kind of on a bouldering kick atm, in RI and at Rumney, but I just ordered a new rope for cleaning and bolting and am starting to think about Greens projects. It would be great to get a couple weekends before the bugs really hit. Are Bear Notch and Sawyer River rds open yet, or do they still need another week or two? Rumney is very unwintery these days, but I would imagine with all the snow of this year it could be hanging around up higher for a while.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Nemesis on May 05, 2015, 10:02:54 PM
How are the mid elevations looking these days? I am kind of on a bouldering kick atm, in RI and at Rumney, but I just ordered a new rope for cleaning and bolting and am starting to think about Greens projects. It would be great to get a couple weekends before the bugs really hit. Are Bear Notch and Sawyer River rds open yet, or do they still need another week or two? Rumney is very unwintery these days, but I would imagine with all the snow of this year it could be hanging around up higher for a while.

There's still some hangfire in the shade, but with the temps I'm guessing the snow and ice will be gone by the weekend
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: danf on May 05, 2015, 11:18:22 PM
Bear Notch opened yesterday.  Of course.  I had to drive from Sabbaday Falls to Bartlett the long way Sunday.

I don't know how they are up in the Conway area yet, but the flies are definitely out and swarming in the Wakefield/Ossipee area.  I can't say that they are biting, but I don't think it's going to be long before they are.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 05, 2015, 11:59:42 PM
Thanks for the info. Sounds like it might be one of those Springs with no window before having to jump right into scrubbing in a bug suite.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on May 06, 2015, 10:31:34 AM
mark- main Cliff ??  I bet Sawyer is still closed ????
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 06, 2015, 11:06:45 AM
Yeah, I am guessing another couple weeks to let it harden up too. I was thinking NE crags first. I do have a project on the Main Cliff I want to finish though. It probably makes sense to get over there before it gets too hot. The third pitch (a big undercling flake) tends to be wet though in the spring. I'd like to get Dima  out to finish it. He worked on the second pitch with me a little a few years back. Never got him out last year.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on May 06, 2015, 11:28:46 AM
I remember that one...I guess wet,hard and hot  would be a good name ,but not good conditions
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 06, 2015, 01:40:57 PM
I see now that Rob Hall has an update for Greens on MP that says both Bear notch and Sawyer River Rd are now open!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on May 06, 2015, 11:05:27 PM
Bear Notch and Hurricane Mt Road are open now.  Sawyer River Rd is open, but was soft.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 11, 2015, 05:57:57 PM
You are sandbagging me Al.  :police: Apparently both roads are still closed.  Looks like no pre-bug season at Greens this year  :(  http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/whitemountain/home/?cid=stelprdb5183538&width=full (http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/whitemountain/home/?cid=stelprdb5183538&width=full)

http://hb.511nh.com/main.jsf (http://hb.511nh.com/main.jsf)

- first hand reports from Amy Colburn and Rob Hall
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on May 11, 2015, 07:02:16 PM
You are sandbagging me Al.  :police: Apparently both roads are still closed.  Looks like no pre-bug season at Greens this year  :(  http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/whitemountain/home/?cid=stelprdb5183538&width=full (http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/whitemountain/home/?cid=stelprdb5183538&width=full)

http://hb.511nh.com/main.jsf (http://hb.511nh.com/main.jsf)

- first hand reports from Amy Colburn and Rob Hall

Very strange... 2 cyclists told me they were both open... Sorry
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: danf on May 12, 2015, 07:50:25 PM
https://www.facebook.com/CarrollCountySO?fref=ts

Carroll County Sheriff's Office is reporting (today) that Hurricane Mt road is open.  But they also said over a week ago that Bear Notch Road was open too...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: frik on May 13, 2015, 10:20:02 AM
just go here: http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/whitemountain/home/?cid=stelprdb5183538

Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on May 13, 2015, 11:19:53 AM
You are sandbagging me Al.  :police: Apparently both roads are still closed.  Looks like no pre-bug season at Greens this year  :(  http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/whitemountain/home/?cid=stelprdb5183538&width=full (http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/whitemountain/home/?cid=stelprdb5183538&width=full)

http://hb.511nh.com/main.jsf (http://hb.511nh.com/main.jsf)

- first hand reports from Amy Colburn and Rob Hall

Don't  be a whimp mark...over the river and through the woods.....
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on May 13, 2015, 12:32:16 PM
Just spoke with the folks at Bart's Deli and they said it's not open yet!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: ralbert20 on May 13, 2015, 12:42:19 PM
any news on Sawyer River Rd?
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: strandman on May 13, 2015, 01:30:36 PM
i bet not...I never remember Sawyer or BNR open before mem Day...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: John Ski on May 14, 2015, 09:28:53 PM
I drive from Bartlett to Bretton Woods almost everyday. When I drove past Sawyer River Rd today at 3:30PM the gate was open (it was closed earlier at 8AM) and Bear Notch Rd was still gated closed.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on May 20, 2015, 11:33:01 AM
5/18 update from the DOT says Bear Notch road won't be open until June 1.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: lucky luke on January 05, 2016, 10:46:57 AM
some one went to: ice of spade or rainbow slab or chapney fall
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: markvnh on January 05, 2016, 03:56:07 PM
...I know someone climbed Ace on Sunday. And I looked at it from the cannon lot and while then we know it goes.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JChepes on November 14, 2016, 07:03:04 AM
Just a heads up.  There was a large fire that came very close to Albany covered bridge yesterday.  Authorities are telling people to stay away from the area until the fire has been put out.  100 acres have burned in the area but it sounds like it's under control.
Real dry out there so be careful!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: HangingChad on November 14, 2016, 07:30:02 AM
I drove over the Kanc last evening and Passaconaway was closed due to the fire.  FYI
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: xcrag_corex on November 14, 2016, 01:09:42 PM
Article I read said 236 acres. 45 firefighters on the scene. Burning into the Boulder loop trail area
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Jeff on November 15, 2016, 09:32:11 AM
Cigarette or campfire? There was no lightning over the weekend! Everyone should know how dry it is, and has been all summer and fall!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: danf on November 15, 2016, 07:21:14 PM
Some info and pictures at the Carroll County Forest Fire Wardens page on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/ccffwa/
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: NEAlpineStart on November 15, 2016, 09:07:42 PM
Cigarette or campfire? There was no lightning over the weekend! Everyone should know how dry it is, and has been all summer and fall!

I don't think they know yet but I've heard elsewhere that this might actually have a positive effect on the flora in that area... not condoning starting any mind you, but smaller fires like this can help the woods a bit? #notascientist
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on November 17, 2016, 10:15:47 AM
road is now open. FYI 350 acres burned, largest fire in that area in 100 years! Forest Service believes cigarette or campfire. not sure as to status of climbing. someone should check it out perhaps after weekend. trails etc are still closed for a while.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: xcrag_corex on November 17, 2016, 11:27:10 AM
Was curious as to what climbing might have been effected. It sounds like the Sundown area for sure but wonder how far west it had traveled. Wonder if it made it to rainbow and the painted wall. Has any one seen a map of the effected area? Does this pose any significant danger to fixed anchors?
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on November 24, 2016, 11:19:02 AM
This was discussed at the MRS meeting several daze ago. the Boulder Loop Trail is closed until further notice. The thought is that the bolts on Sundown are OK, but it's not clear as to the state of any slings or fixed anchors at the top of the cliff. I would personally consider them suspect until they are inspected. Certainly any slings should be replaced.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on November 24, 2016, 11:19:23 AM
As I understand it, this was discussed at the MRS meeting several daze ago. the Boulder Loop Trail is closed until further notice. The thought is that the bolts on Sundown are OK, but it's not clear as to the state of any slings or fixed anchors at the top of the cliff. I would personally consider them suspect until they are inspected. Certainly any slings should be replaced.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on December 09, 2016, 08:05:58 AM
Is it spring yet? I'm ready for it.
Second pitch of a proj I got ready to lead on those warm beautiful late Nov days just before the Winter closed things up. The first pitch is even better I think. Sitting up on the belay ledge while the super moon was coming up and barely needing a hat and light jacket was killer. Jonesing.
(https://www.mountainproject.com/images/94/52/112379452_medium_0b0f71.jpg?1481287981)
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on December 09, 2016, 09:26:24 AM
Is it spring yet? I'm ready for it.
Second pitch of a proj I got ready to lead on those warm beautiful late Nov days just before the Winter closed things up. The first pitch is even better I think. Sitting up on the belay ledge while the super moon was coming up and barely needing a hat and light jacket was killer. Jonesing.

is this at Green's? that looks very cool.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on December 09, 2016, 09:32:35 AM
Might be  ;) The nice thing is it probably is only 8+, 9 at most, but there is a lot at that grade so I think it will be an instant classic and just what the crag needed. The first pitch is a layback crack to some bolt protected face to a handcrack into a beautiful crack in a stem corner.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on December 09, 2016, 10:06:28 AM
looks beautiful...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: xcrag_corex on December 09, 2016, 12:39:00 PM
Damn that looks nice mark... 25 degrees on Sunday. I'll hold the rope if you are ambitious. PM me if interested.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on December 09, 2016, 01:03:11 PM
Damn that looks nice mark... 25 degrees on Sunday. I'll hold the rope if you are ambitious. PM me if interested.

Tempting but the approach would probably be pretty beastly with the gate closed (maybe 14 miles rt) to most likely find it iced up. I might ski/snowshoe out there this winter some time just to see what it is like though, as I haven't done that from the north yet. Will let you know.
Title: Winterlude
Post by: Admin Al on January 09, 2017, 10:46:52 AM
Brad White and I climbed Winterlude off the Kanc on Friday. It was a real thrash getting in there, even with snowshoes. There was just enough crust to float on top for a step or two, and then you were through and up to your knees! The climb was pretty good, tho as is often the case now, the top out was poor. If you are going to climb it, I suggest going up the middle and then trend left. That way you can hook the tree up there. FWIW I would probably give it another week!

There are several other climbs up there that I did last year, but they aren't IN yet. Apparently someone else was up there, probably before the ice mess, but after the big snow storm. I'd be interested to know what they were doing or if they climbed anything.

I have noticed there there are a number of bolted rock climbs on the right side of the cliff, plus some pretty interesting cracks. I've never been in there in the summer and I would imagine it's fairly humid since the face is somewhat mossy.

The Winterlude area is located on the Kancamagus Highway on a cliff band about 600 yards east of the Albany Covered Bridge over the Swift River, on the opposite side of the road. You can park on the road right now, but not always. it depends on if the plows have winged it out. Of course you can always park in the lot by the covered bridge. It always comes in fairly fat by mid-season.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: DGoguen on January 09, 2017, 12:00:52 PM
The Winterlude area is located on the Kancamagus Highway on a cliff band about 600 yards east of the Saco Covered Bridge
Albany covered bridge on the Swift.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on January 10, 2017, 12:48:12 PM
The Winterlude area is located on the Kancamagus Highway on a cliff band about 600 yards east of the Saco Covered Bridge
Albany covered bridge on the Swift.

yes, sorry... that is absolutely correct

Albany & Swift it is...

have you been there?
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: DGoguen on January 10, 2017, 04:01:46 PM


yes, sorry... that is absolutely correct

Albany & Swift it is...

have you been there?
600 yards east of the Saco River covered bridge might put you in the Shure Fine parking lot. Ha Ha

Last time into Winterlude was maybe 20 years ago. I should revisit.


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JChepes on April 29, 2017, 08:26:18 PM
Passaconaway Road is open all the way.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: eyebolter on April 30, 2017, 06:03:13 AM
Got my first black fly bite yesterday, zone 5 western mass at 1,100 feet.   Better get it while it's not buggy, won't be long now for the MWV.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on May 03, 2017, 08:14:30 AM
Got my first black fly bite yesterday, zone 5 western mass at 1,100 feet.   Better get it while it's not buggy, won't be long now for the MWV.

I'm not at all surprised
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on July 24, 2017, 03:42:01 PM
The bugs have mellowed out significantly at Greens lately. This weekend I barely needed any DEET. A few things still have seep spots, but most were in good climbing condition.

The ridge trail directly to the Main Wall is in good shape and easily followable.  The traversing trail from the split to the NE crags is in rough shape from avalanches and tree fall, but if you have been there before or are reasonable at navigating you should be able to get over to the NE fine.

Oh, and, I lead the project above earlier this spring with Amy C. , so it is open - First impressions 5.9+  It is the first route you see coming to the Main Wall from the right (though Eco Challenge is tucked up in a corner  to the right). After a short flake/crack, two bolts lead you up across the face to a short handcrack that brings you up to the base of a beautiful jam/layback/ stem corner. The bolts on the arete are for the 10 to the left (no name yet) From the belay on the lower ledge, head straight  up the nice handcrack. The top anchor has ramshorns and you can lower to the big ledge with anchors to the left (top anchor of the 10) Rack- single nuts and cams up to #3, double cams grey or purple through red #1.

The 10 to the left also starts up a flake system to bolted face to a rounded arete with a crux mantle move on an edge, than delicate moves left until you can layback the edge of the wide crack and step over to a stance.  An easy crack leads to SS glue-in anchors on the big ledge. If you do one of the pitches off the ledge, give the belayer enough leash to move more under the leader.

To the left, starting a little higher and right of a little cave is Amy's Global Warming (there is a project in between with a few bolt holes but no bolts yet). It starts up a flake, passes two bolts (crux) and heads up through a tricky notch into an easy but beautiful corner (the left of the two parallel ones) that angles up and right to the same belay ledge as the 10. The grade is probably between the two routes to the right, maybe 9+, harder if short.

These routes are all  on the right side of the Main Wall, where the trail first meets, and just right of the big roofs and fire ring. All bolts are fat SS glue-ins.

(https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/113382479_medium_1500916915.jpg) Dima heading up the P1 corner of First Impressions
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: crazyt on July 25, 2017, 06:23:48 PM
 I had so much fun on First Impressions last Saturday I went back sunday and did it again. Also had the pleasure of following Mark and Amy on their 1st ascents. Primo granite. Primo routes.
   Mark, I think you meant to say the routes were RIGHT of the roofs and fire ring,eh?
Tom Bowker
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: mopowers on July 26, 2017, 09:56:58 PM
Looks sweet Mark!!! I know where Eco Challenge is but can not picture where this line would be. I will be out soon to find out. 
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on July 27, 2017, 02:02:49 PM
You are correct, Tom, to the right of the fire ring and big roofs. Fixed, thanks.

I decided to call the 10 to the left of First Impressions, I just want to Make a Volcano.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: mopowers on July 29, 2017, 08:11:35 PM
This group of routes is a great addition to the cliff. Very nice work as always. The more moderate grades and route concentration almost makes it its own crag.

You must of been shocked to uncover that old pin in the corner on the left side. I thought I read somewhere about an old AMC route on the cliff. This must be it.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on July 29, 2017, 09:39:59 PM
Bummer, I missed you Dave.  Didn't know you were coming right away. I shifted my weekend to tomorrow and Monday.

Any guesstimate on the age of the pin?

That pin you saw makes me figure somebody came up from the left and into that corner, in which case they probably would have easily  made it up to the big ledge. They could have rapped off trees to the right then.  A pin or two over in the corner of the Fireside Crack would make sense also. What I haven't been able to figure out is a third pin I found between the two, higher up the face and barely stuck in a very shallow seam. Somebody would have had to rap in to the position or run it out quite a bit and then they still would be out in the middle of nowhere with possible 11 or 12 climbing above.  Even newly placed I don't think it would be any good for anything  beyond a crappy aid piece.

If those were Lincoln O'Brien pins, They wouldn't really fit his narrative. Making it up 100 feet, he wrote “but were unable to find a route to the top of this magnificent cliff. No other route could be found; the smooth, massive slabs seemed impregnable."  If he made it to the big ledge, which otherwise fits the description (about 5.4 at most from the pin up low angled corner crack), I would think they could have aided up one of the cracks to the summit. His description seems to fit the easy corners between Stewart's Crack and the Ginsu Flake (maybe what Justin Priesendorfer calls Quick Exit 5.3. see https://www.mountainproject.com/v/106759722 (https://www.mountainproject.com/v/106759722) The wall appears to blank out above

I wonder if the pins were actually from Jimmie Dunn. He used pins on the belay ledge of Stewart's Crack. It seems possible that he poked around on the right side and had some older pins.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: mopowers on August 03, 2017, 09:39:29 AM
My guess for an age of the pin would be 1940's. I found a couple pins of similar styling on a Mt. Pisgah route documented in Appalachia from 1947. If I remember correctly the pins on Stewart's crack were much more modern Chouinard pins. I just did the route last week but didn't take notice this time.

Seems to me that the second pitch cracks to these routes would be more steep and wide than what they were climbing in the 20's, even on aid. I would also think that they could read the rock well enough to know that Quick Exit would be a dead end. I am far from a climbing historian so its all just random guesses. All really interesting though.

The pins in Fireside crack are very intriguing. Did Priesendorfer and crew leave them in place? I might have to check that route out next time I am out there. I tried pulling the opening roof one morning while camping but lost interest quickly.

The Appalachia archives might have some Greens history. Climbs and explorations of the 30's - 50's were well documented. I once asked an intern at the AMC to comb through the Appalachia journal for info on Willougbhy Lake climbing, they sent me a gold mine of info. 
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: smartpig on August 10, 2017, 08:19:17 AM
Dave, next time you stop by Sykes's place, he has my almost complete set of Appalachia from the beginning and into the late 1990's. Go have a social with him and do some reading.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: smartpig on August 10, 2017, 09:22:03 AM
Also, I know Dan Brodien and Roger Daman, who both live in St. Johnsbury, where very active putting up routes in the 40's, 50's, 60's (Lakeview on Cannon) both in NH and VT. They where quite active at Wheeler back then (I have digital photo copies of them climbing on Wheeler, Artist Bluff, and Cannon). I recorded an interview I did with them (along with Andy Fisher) in the process of researching some of the history for Jon's book. They may have a deeper cut knowledge of the history of Greens Cliff rock climbing.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: DaveR on August 10, 2017, 10:08:17 AM
Last year I purchased the complete  set from volume 1 to the present for 20$ at a yard sale in northern NH. The early volumes have some amazing stuff in them!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: smartpig on August 10, 2017, 02:16:18 PM
Last year I purchased the complete  set from volume 1 to the present for 20$ at a yard sale in northern NH. The early volumes have some amazing stuff in them!

Back then, it was THE SOURCE!

Awesome yard sale find!
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: M_Sprague on October 24, 2017, 08:53:26 AM
Conditions have been great out at Greens. Lets hope the rain doesn't wet things down too much for next weekend. We are probably down to the last few weeks with the gate open. If you are going to the NE Crags on a cold day, I'd suggest hitting it early before the sun goes off. The Main Cliff gets generally more baked in the sun and stays in it to the eod.
(https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/113746892_medium_1508849073.jpg)
Looking down at the Fall colors from on top of the Main Cliff as the morning fog engulfs Birch Hill

(https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/113746555_medium_1508822953.jpg)
Nate Vince topping out Joe Consavage's new second pitch 5.11
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: Admin Al on October 25, 2017, 01:40:09 PM
Conditions have been great out at Greens. Lets hope the rain doesn't wet things down too much for next weekend. We are probably down to the last few weeks with the gate open. If you are going to the NE Crags on a cold day, I'd suggest hitting it early before the sun goes off. The Main Cliff gets generally more baked in the sun and stays in it to the end.

great pix Mark...
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JohnR on October 24, 2018, 12:33:53 PM
Bear Notch Road Is Closed.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JohnR on May 06, 2019, 03:54:27 PM
Passaconaway Road is open.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JohnR on May 24, 2019, 03:47:41 PM
Bear Notch Road is open.
Title: Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
Post by: JohnR on November 12, 2019, 02:15:05 PM
Bear Notch Road is Closed.